D 


'   • 


tUA          L^L_A.          - 

L  /r/r 


TO 

CAPTAIN   AND   MRS.  ARTHUR   CURTISS   JAMES 

THIS  STORY  OF  ONE 

CRUISE  OF  THE  CORONET 

IS  AFFECTIONATELY   INSCRIBED 


76187! 


PREFACE 


THE  expedition  proper,  sent  out  to  observe 
the  total  eclipse  of  the  sun  in  Japan  on  the  9th 
of  August,  1896,  through  the  liberality  of  Mr.  D. 
Willis  James  and  his  son,  owners  of  the  schooner 
yacht  Coronet,  consisted  of  nine  persons,  —  Cap- 
tain and  Mrs.  Arthur  Curtiss  James  ;  Professor 
and  Mrs.  David  P.  Todd ;  Passed  Assistant  Engi- 
neer John  Pemberton,  U.  S.  Navy ;  Mr.  Willard 
P.  Gerrish  of  Harvard  College  Observatory; 
Vanderpoel  Adriance,  M.  D.,  of  the  College  of 
Physicians  and  Surgeons,  Columbia  University  ; 
Mr.  Arthur  W.  Francis  of  New  York ;  and  Mr. 
E.  A.  Thompson,  mechanician,  of  Amherst. 

Certain  aspects  of  this  memorable  trip  have 
seemed  worthy  of  narration,  covering,  as  it  did, 
more  than  ten  thousand  miles  of  sailing  for 
our  party,  and  at  least  forty-five  thousand  miles 
of  deep  sea  voyaging  for  the  Coronet  As  an 
"  unscientific  account  of  a  scientific  expedition," 
it  necessarily  makes  divers  small  branchings  in 


vi  PREFACE 

its  course,  like  a  sort  of  ornamental  needlework 
much  affected  by  our  grandmothers.  I  have,  as 
it  were,  feather-stitched  my  way  to  Yezo  and 
back  again. 

To  avoid  repetition,  our  friendly  company  are 
named  on  paper  as  they  were  often  designated 
on  board,  —  the  Captain,  the  Professor  or  Astro- 
nomer, the  Doctor,  the  Musician,  and  so  on.  Mr. 
Francis  was  apt  to  be  addressed  as  General, 
largely  because  of  his  masterful  management  of 
expedition  finances ;  and  Mr.  Pemberton  was 
known  as  Chief,  having  been  many  years  chief 
engineer  of  the  U.  S.  S.  Monocacy  while  attached 
to  our  Asiatic  squadron.  During  that  time,  he 
had  in  1887  accompanied  Professor  Todd's  ear- 
lier expedition  to  Shirakawa,  in  central  Japan, 
where  his  assistance  was  peculiarly  welcome. 

The  narrative  owes  much  to  many  friends, 
first  and  foremost  to  the  owners  of  the  Coronet 
for  making  the  expedition  possible  ;  to  my  hus- 
band for  reducing  to  accuracy  my  attempts  at 
describing  the  scientific  phases  of  the  trip ;  and 
to  all  our  fellow  voyagers  for  drawings,  photo- 
graphs, or  material  no  less  picturesque  in  its 
way.  Of  more  than  ordinary  interest  is  the  brief 
paper  upon  deep-sea  sailing  from  the  point  of 
view  of  a  practical  and  enthusiastic  yachtsman, 
written  by  the  younger  of  the  Coronet's  owners. 


PREFACE  vii 

President  Hill  of  the  Great  Northern  Rail- 
way has  put  the  whole  expedition  in  his  debt  for 
the  generous  courtesy  of  transportation  in  his 
private  car  from  Chicago  to  San  Francisco.  At 
the  latter  place  Mr.  Merrill  and  Mr.  Wheeler 
were  untiring  in  facilities  accorded  us,  and  their 
warehouses  afforded  most  convenient  headquar- 
ters for  the  expedition  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 

In  Honolulu,  obligation  was  constant  to  the 
hospitable  friends  who  united  in  showing  us  the 
characteristic  side  of  Hawaiian  life,  as  well  as  to 
others  who  gave  practical  aid  to  the  more  serious 
side  of  our  work ;  especially  to  President  Dole, 
and  to  Professor  Alexander,  surveyor  general, 
and  his  assistants. 

In  Japan  a  list  of  those  through  whose  kind- 
ness the  pathway  of  the  expedition  was  made 
smooth,  even  luxurious,  would  comprise  almost 
every  one  with  whom  we  came  in  contact,  from 
personal  friends  of  various  nationalities  who 
entertained  us,  to  the  government  officials  who 
granted  railroad  passes,  special  steamers,  and 
facilities  otherwise  impossible.  Many  pleasant 
and  essential  favors  were  obtained  through  the 
friendliness  of  Mr.  Hayashi  and  Mr.  Kabayama ; 
and  of  Mr.  Herod,  then  charge1  d'affaires  of  our 
legation  at  Tokyo.  Also  the  governor  of  Hok- 
kaido and  the  mayor  of  Esashi  exerted  them- 
selves most  courteously  in  our  behalf. 


viii  PREFACE 

Without  the  intelligent  services  of  Mr.  Oshima 
and  Mr.  Murakami,  both  teachers  in  government 
colleges,  ease  of  communication  in  remote  local- 
ities would  not  have  been  attainable;  and  to 
Professor  Burton  and  Mr.  Ogawa  warm  thanks 
are  due  for  fine  views  of  the  Ainu  and  northern 
Yezo. 

I  must  not  omit  mention  of  the  kindly  assist- 
ance in  many  technicalities,  Hawaiian  and  Jap- 
anese, given  me  by  Mrs.  Frances  Carter  Crehore, 
formerly  of  Honolulu,  and  by  Miss  Ume  Tsuda,  of 
the  Peeresses'  School  in  Tokyo.  Also  the  editors 
of  "The  Nation,"  "The  Century  Magazine," 
"  The  Atlantic  Monthly,"  "  The  Independent," 
and  "  The  Outlook,"  have  kindly  given  permis- 
sion to  reprint  my  articles  originally  published 
in  their  magazines. 


M.L.  T. 


OBSERVATORY  HOUSE, 
AMHERST,  October.  1898. 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

INTRODUCTORY xiii 

DEEP-SEA  YACHTING  BY  A.  C.  JAMES  .        .  xxiii 

I.  THE  CORONET i 

II.   PREPARATION 8 

III.  OVERLAND 14 

IV.  SAUSALITO 24 

V.  FIFTEEN  DAYS  AT  $EA       ....  30 

VI.  LIFE  IN  HONOLULU 42 

VII.  HAWAIIAN  VOLCANOES       ....  58 

VIII.  A  HAWAIIAN  JOURNEY 68 

IX.   KILAUEA 78 

X.   A  Poi  LUNCHEON 88 

XL  WITH  KATE  FIELD     .....  97 

XII.  A  MID-PACIFIC  COLLEGE       ....  104 

XIII.  THE  LEPERS  OF  MOLOKAI  .        .        .        .  in 

XIV.  FOUR  WEEKS  AT  SEA 125 

XV.  JAPAN  REVISITED 139 

XVI.  DEPARTURE  OF  THE  EXPEDITION  .        .        -155 

XVII.  IN  FAMILIAR  HAUNTS        .        .        .        .  172 

XVIII.   SOUTHWARD 181 

XIX.    GlFU   AND  THE  CORMORANT  FISHING          .  l88 

XX.   KYOTO 194 

XXI.   NARA 209 

XXII.  YACHTING  IN  THE  INLAND  SEA    .        .        .216 

XXIII.  EXPEDITION  EXPERIENCES  ....  229 


CONTENTS 


XXIV.   THE  TIDAL  WAVE 241 

XXV.   IN  PURSUIT  OF  A  SHADOW         .        .        .  254 

XXVI.   STILL  PURSUING 264 

XXVII.     ESASHI    IN    KlTAMI 272 

XXVIII.   IN  AINU  LAND 292 

XXIX.  THE  ECLIPSE 318 

XXX.  A  NATIVE  CELEBRATION        ....  327 

XXXI.  VOYAGE  ON  A  FRENCH  CRUISER       .        .  336 

XXXII.   HOMEWARD  BOUND 343 

XXXIII.  BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA  COPPER  MINE        .  357 

INDEX 377 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS 


FAGB 

MR.  JAMES'S  SCHOONER  YACHT  CORONET    Frontispiece. 

EXPEDITION  HEADQUARTERS  AT  ESASHI  .        .      Facing  10 

THE  ROTARY  SNOW-PLOUGH  AT  WELLINGTON   .       .  20 

EXPEDITION  WORK  ON  BOARD 36 

RESIDENCE  OF  PRESIDENT  DOLE  IN  HONOLULU         .  50 

HAWAIIAN  VILLAGE  LANDING-PLACE       ....  64 

SULPHUR  BLOW-HOLE  IN  THE  CRATER  OF  KILAUEA  80 

KATE  FIELD 98 

COTTAGE  IN  DR.  MCGREW'S    GROUNDS  WHERE   Miss 

FIELD  DIED 102 

BOKI,  RULER  OF  OAHU  IN  1820,  AND  LILIHA  HIS  WIFE  104 

CAPTAIN  AND  OWNER  OF  THE  CORONET     .        .        .  134 
MAP   OF   JAPAN    SHOWING  TRACK   OF  TOTAL    SOLAR 

ECLIPSE 158 

THE  CORONET  DRESSED  FOR  THE    FOURTH  OF  JULY, 

YOKOHAMA  HARBOR,  THE  OLYMPIA  AT  THE  RIGHT  180 

A  "  FLOAT  "  IN  MATSURI  PROCESSION  AT  KYOTO      .  206 

STONE  LANTERNS  AND  CRYPTOMERIAS  AT  NARA  .        .  212 

TEMPLE  AT  NARA 214 

VIEW  ON  THE  RAILWAY  NEAR  MORIOKA        .        .        .  230 

LANDING  THE  EMPEROR'S  PORTRAIT  AT  ESASHI        .  238 
THE  GREAT  TIDAL  WAVE  AS  PORTRAYED  IN  A  NATIVE 

MAGAZINE 248 

AINU    COUPLE,   THE  WOMAN   WEARING   CEREMONIAL 

BEADS 260 

A  TYPICAL  AINU 268 

THE  ELECTRIC  COMMUTATOR 278 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


JAPANESE    CARPENTER    MAKING    PLATE-HOLDERS    AT 

ECLIPSE  STATION 280 

FANCIFUL  LAMP- POST  AND  NATIVE  INN  AT  EsASHi/0««£-  282 
AINU  HOLDING    MUSTACHE-LIFTER,  ABOUT  TO  DRINK 

SAKE 290 

OLD  AINU  CHIEFTAIN 300 

AINU  WOMAN  CARRYING  CHILD  AND  BURDEN      .       .  304 
ARTICLES  GATHERED  IN  AINU  HOUSES        .        .        .  312 
LIGHTHOUSE  ON  THE  BEACH  AT  ESASHI  (from  a  Draw- 
ing by  Mr.  Thompson)       .......  322 

EXPEDITION  MEMBERS,  AND  OLD  SCHOOLHOUSE,  AFTER 

THE  ECLIPSE 324 

A  "HAIRY  AINU" 340 

ROUTE  OF  THE  EXPEDITION,  AND  CORONET'S  COURSE  354 

AINU  WOMAN  WEAVING  ELM-FIBRE  INTO  CLOTH     .  360 

ARTICLES  OF  AINU  MANUFACTURE 374 


INTRODUCTORY 


CHASING  eclipses,  always  of  interest  in  itself 
whether  the  eclipse  be  caught  or  not,  yields  great 
wealth  to  science  when  these  elusive  phenomena 
are  properly  overtaken. 

Sun  and  moon  are  of  apparently  the  same  size, 
and  by  a  happy  working  of  the  celestial  mechan- 
ism the  moon  sometimes  comes  directly  between 
us  and  our  central  luminary,  causing  a  total 
eclipse  of  the  sun.  But  this  happy  state  of 
things  can  by  no  means  last  longer  than  eight 
minutes.  Usually  in  far  less  time  sun  and  moon 
seem  to  slip  past  one  another,  and  though  for 
two  hours  or  more  the  partial  phases  may  con- 
tinue, the  duration  of  entire  darkness  is,  on  an 
average,  not  much  over  three  minutes. 

The  astronomer  wishes  totality  could  last 
three  hours  or  three  months,  that  by  the  benefi- 
cent shielding  of  the  sun's  intense  brightness  he 
might  have  an  opportunity  of  studying  without 
interruption  that  most  beautiful  and  mysterious 
sight  in  nature,  —  the  outflashing  radiance  of 
the  corona. 


TNTROD  UCTOR  Y 


This  spectacle,  so  impressive  as  hardly  to  ad- 
mit of  description,  has,  thus  far  in  the  history  of 
science,  been  visible  only  during  a  total  eclipse. 
Possibly  in  part  an  atmosphere  of  the  sun,  hold- 
ing the  secret  of  solar  constitution  and  energy, 
what  wonder  that  the  enthusiastic  specialist 
longs  to  interrogate  its  reticent  streamers  until 
hidden  things  shall  come  forth  to  his  questioning 
telescope  and  camera.  If  a  permanent  eclipse 
would  only  disclose  coronal  secrets,  any  serious 
interference  with  mundane  matters  would  give 
him  small  concern. 

By  a  series  of  saddening  calculations,  based 
upon  the  number  of  eclipses  in  a  century,  the 
length  of  total  phase,  probability  of  cloud,  and 
average  number  of  observers  and  telescopes 
likely  to  address  specific  questions  to  the  sun 
at  the  time  of  his  temporary  retirement;  consid- 
ering, too,  the  fondness  of  eclipse  tracks  for 
oceans,  deserts,  tropic  marshes,  impassable  for- 
ests, and  other  localities  where  no  civilized  hu- 
man being,  not  even  an  astronomer,  can  follow, 
the  ardent  pursuer  reaches  depressing  conclu- 
sions. A  miserly  century,  despite  its  seventy 
total  eclipses  of  the  sun,  allows  only  about  one 
solid  day's  watching  of  the  corona.  Very  natu- 
ral, then,  the  impatience  to  follow,  if  this  fasci- 
nating shadow  beckons  toward  regions  even 


INTRODUCTOR  Y 


remotely  accessible ;  and  no  less  the  desire  to 
invent  something  whereby  the  precious  three 
minutes,  rich  with  tantalizing  stores  of  coronal 
wealth,  may  virtually  be  lengthened  many  fold. 
To  accomplish  this  end  was  mainly  the  object  of 
our  Amherst  expedition. 

Those  who  follow  in  the  train  of  an  astrono- 
mer, belonging  strictly  to  his  family,  scarcely 
know,  amid  a  multitude  of  original  diversions, 
where  to  find  themselves  from  day  to  day,  in  an 
existence  successfully  robbed  of  monotony.  Not 
only  does  he  rise  at  all  hours  after  midnight  and 
remain  awake  at  all  hours  before ;  not  only  does 
he  fill  the  house  with  developed  and  undeveloped 
photographic  plates  of  stars  and  meteors,  ghostly 
nebulae  and  flying  comets,  as  well  as  sketches  of 
sun-spots  and  blue  prints  of  strange  apparatus ; 
not  only  do  piles  of  student  examination  papers, 
covered  with  frenzied  diagrams,  hide  beneath 
apparently  innocent  magazines ;  and  proof-sheets 
of  forthcoming  volumes  lie  in  wait  in  every 
drawer ;  but  one  should  never  be  amazed  to  meet 
the  Professor  himself  at  a  moment's  notice  in 
any  portion  of  the  globe. 

Eclipse  shadows  rarely  fall  upon  him  comfort- 
ably ensconced  in  his  home  observatory.  Should 
he  experience  the  good  fortune  of  witnessing  a 
single  one  from  his  domestic  dome,  about  three 


INTRO  D  UCTOR  Y 


hundred  and  fifty  years  must  elapse  before  an- 
other would  pass  that  way.  Eclipse  astronomers 
are  necessarily  cosmopolitan. 

But,  apparently  erratic,  these  paths  of  dark- 
ness, like  all  celestial  movements,  are  subject  to 
definite  law,  only  of  such  immense  scope  that 
one  generation  is  not  long  enough  to  observe  an 
appreciable  fraction  of  its  operation.  In  a  single 
astronomer's  lifetime,  eclipse  tracks  may  seem  to 
obey  their  own  sweet  will,  —  falling,  for  instance, 
in  his  youth  upon  France  (1842)  and  Sweden 
(1851),  crossing  Peru  (1858),  Spain  and  the  Paci- 
fic coast  of  North  America  (1860)  in  his  man- 
hood ;  if  still  enthusiastic  he  would  have  gone  to 
the  Malay  peninsula  (1868),  even  extending  his 
research  to  the  great  American  eclipse  (1878)  ; 
had  he  begun  at  an  especially  tender  age  with 
the  French  eclipse,  he  might  have  retained  eye- 
sight and  energy  enough  to  journey  to  Egypt 
for  a  glimpse  of  its  traditional  darkness  (1882). 
Here  is  variety  of  locality  enough  to  confuse  all 
theories  of  eclipse  visitation  based  upon  individ- 
ual experience.  Unhappily  he  cannot  seek  far- 
ther transits  of  Venus,  because  the  next  one 
occurs  A.  D.  2004,  a  date  somewhat  in  advance 
of  even  the  most  hopeful  astronomer  who  has 
the  misfortune  of  being  already  alive.  But 
eclipses  and  other  spectacles  in  the  firmament 


INTROD  UCTOR  Y 


generally  deny  their  beauties  and  revelations  to 
strictly  civilized  centres.  And  so,  although  here 
to-day,  he  is  to-morrow  on  the  high  road  or  the 
high  seas,  bound  for  Alaska  or  Pike's  Peak, 
West  Africa  or  the  Marquesas  Islands,  Egypt  or 
Chile.  He  speaks  of  these  somewhat  unusual 
localities  with  a  familiarity  not  known  to  the 
tourist,  and  born  of  close  acquaintance  and  supe- 
rior companionship.  He  casually  mentions  resi- 
dence for  a  time  in  Nova  Zembla  or  Vladivostok 
as  too  much  a  matter  of  course  even  for  comment. 
Truly,  intimacy  with  immeasurable  stretches  of 
infinite  space  induces  a  just  estimate  of  the 
meagre  dimensions  of  our  own  planet,  where  few 
regions  are  impossibly  remote  or  forbidding,  if 
only  some  celestial  performance  be  visible  from 
their  all  but  inaccessible  wastes. 

Rarely  were  such  expeditions  undertaken  until 
the  middle  of  the  present  century,  and  it  was 
not  many  years  ago  that  "  darkening  of  the  sun 
at  noonday "  meant  unreasoning  terror,  even  de- 
spair, to  all  beholders.  Even  now,  in  parts  of 
China  and  India,  superstitious  ceremonies  are 
performed  while  the  "great  monster"  calmly  de- 
vours the  friendly  sun.  In  Japan,  until  recently, 
ignorant  peasants  covered  their  wells  during 
eclipses  to  prevent  poison  from  falling  into  them 
from  the  sky. 


INTRO  D  UCTOR  Y 


If,  in  olden  time,  an  eclipse  occurred  within 
convenient  distance,  astronomers  observed  the 
time  of  beginning  and  ending,  sometimes  not- 
ing the  fact  that  a  pale  halo  of  light  seemed  to 
encircle  the  dark  body  of  the  moon.  That  this 
corona  had  definite  structure,  or  that  it  offered 
important  problems,  apparently  never  occurred 
to  early  observers.  Scientific  study  of  the  corona 
and  of  the  sun's  constitution  has  been  wholly 
contained  in  the  last  sixty  years,  the  significance 
of  total  eclipses  of  the  sun  being  a  purely  mod- 
ern recognition. 

Although  invented  in  1839,  photography  was 
first  successfully  applied  to  a  total  eclipse  of  the 
sun  in  1851  at  Konigsberg,  securing  a  fine  re- 
cord, not  only  of  the  wonderful  red  prominences 
which  burst  forth  at  totality,  but  of  the  myste- 
rious radiance  of  the  ethereal  corona.  Hence- 
forward, advance  in  this  method  of  observation 
was  rapid,  and  in  1868  Janssen  in  India,  after  the 
longest  eclipse  ever  observed  (about  five  minutes 
and  a  half),  announced  the  epoch-making  discov- 
ery, that  the  protuberances  can  be  studied  by 
the  spectroscope  without  an  eclipse,  —  that  is,  in 
full  sunlight.  Yet  the  character  of  the  blood-red 
jets  is  not  in  all  respects  the  same  as  when  the 
moon's  dark  body  makes  the  screen,  so  that  ne- 
cessity for  continued  research  upon  them  during 


INTRODUCTORY 


eclipses  still  remains.  But  no  triumphant  ob- 
server has  yet  reported  success  in  seeing  the 
corona  without  an  eclipse,  though  many  trials 
with  highly  sensitive  instruments  have  been 
made.  Future  years  may  bring,  too,  this  longed- 
for  achievement. 

Prior  to  1860  it  was  not  even  certain  that  the 
corona  belonged  to  the  sun  at  all.  The  outer 
streamers,  sometimes  extending  ten  or  eleven 
million  miles  into  space,  were  discovered  by 
Professor  Langley  in  1878,  from  the  summit  of 
Pike's  Peak.  A  material  found  in  the  corona  by 
Professor  Young  in  1869  was  named  "  coronium," 
being  unlike  anything  known  upon  earth  ;  and 
his  marvelous  "reversing  layer" — when  for  a 
second  or  two  before  totality  all  the  dark  lines 
in  the  spectrum  suddenly  flash  forth  in  great 
brilliance  (seen  for  the  first  time  in  Spain  in 
1870,  and  confirmed  in  1874  at  Cape  Colony) 
—  was  photographed  during  the  eclipse  of  1896 
by  Sir  Baden  Powell's  party  in  Nova  Zembla, 
and  abundantly  verified  in  India  two  years 
later. 

Thus,  bit  by  bit,  our  stores  of  knowledge  of 
the  corona  accumulate.  Finely  equipped  expedi- 
tions to  follow  the  fleeting  pathway  of  shadow 
are  in  our  day  constantly  sent  out,  often  by  gov- 
ernment, and  the  leading  nations  of  the  world 


INTRODUCTORY 


vie  with  one  another  in  the  amount  of  valuable 
material  gathered  by  their  astronomers. 

Questions  of  probable  cloud  are,  of  course, 
very  important.  As  the  shadow  will  fall  over 
localities  known  many  years  in  advance,  observa- 
tions of  prevailing  sky  conditions  are  possible 
during  several  seasons  beforehand  all  along  the 
track  of  anticipated  darkness,  and  from  a  com- 
parison of  them,  regions  least  cloudy  can  be 
chosen. 

Selecting  the  site  for  an  observing  station 
involves  great,  almost  terrifying,  responsibility. 
Of  four  or  five  available  places,  one  may  prove 
clear  and  the  others  cloudy  on  the  fateful  day ; 
or  one  may  be  overcast  while  the  remainder  re- 
joice in  brightest  weather.  And  the  wrong  one 
may  have  been  chosen. 

Aggregation  of  many  observers  in  one  region 
is  less  desirable,  scientifically  considered,  than 
various  parties  scattered  along  its  line ;  for  possi- 
bilities of  cloud-interference  are  less,  and  it  is  de- 
sirable also  to  know  whether  the  corona  during  a 
single  eclipse  presents  exactly  the  same  features 
to  eyes  hundreds  of  miles  apart.  In  other  words, 
whether  or  not  it  may  change  in  two  or  three 
hours.  As  the  track  is  ordinarily  many  thousand 
miles  in  length,  this  scattering  of  observers  along 
the  land-line  is  by  no  means  impracticable. 


INTRODUCTORY 


The  eclipse  of  1 896  offered  a  variety  of  oppor- 
tunities. Beginning  in  Norway,  the  track  lay 
across  frozen  Nova  Zembla,  through  Siberia  and 
the  Amur  River  region ;  thence  crossing  the  Sea 
of  Japan  it  traversed  the  Hokkaido,  or  northern 
islands  of  the  Japanese  Empire,  losing  itself  at 
last  in  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Norway  dismissed  from  consideration  as  our 
goal  because  several  other  parties  of  observers 
had  planned  to  locate  there,  Nova  Zembla  was 
investigated  ;  but  the  eclipse  not  occurring  until 
the  ninth  of  August,  and  the  Coronet  having  no 
steam,  it  was  deemed  inexpedient  to  remain  so 
late  in  the  far  north.  The  prospect  of  a  possible 
winter  ice-bound  in  an  Arctic  harbor  was  not 
sufficiently  alluring  to  risk  the  reality. 

For  three  years,  at  Professor  Todd's  request, 
meteorological  observations  had  been  made  in 
Japan,  throughout  the  region  of  coming  eclipse ; 
and  Yezo,  the  largest  northern  island,  was  made 
the  destination  of  the  Amherst  Eclipse  Expedi- 
tion. 

In  October,  1895,  plans  were  laid,  instruments 
and  their  mountings  begun,  and  the  Coronet  was 
preparing  for  her  long  voyage  around  the  Horn. 


DEEP-SEA   YACHTING 

BY  ARTHUR   CURTISS   JAMES 

To  the  yachtsman  truly  interested  in  his 
hobby,  who  enjoys  a  home  on  the  rolling  deep 
for  its  own  sake,  deep-sea  cruising  affords  a  wider 
scope  and  more  perfect  enjoyment  than  can  possi- 
bly be  obtained  from  short  trips  on  inland  waters. 

The  coast  of  Maine  and  the  waters  of  Long 
Island  Sound  are  unsurpassed  anywhere  in  the 
world  as  headquarters  for  Corinthian  sailors,  but 
it  is  not  until  "  Farewell "  has  been  taken  and 
the  first  course  set  for  a  distant  port,  that  the 
true  lover  of  the  sea  begins  to  feel  the  exhilara- 
tion of  life  on  the  ocean  wave.  Newspapers  are 
not  wanted.  Telegrams  are  impossible.  Worry 
is  left  behind,  and  the  yachtsman  enters  upon  an 
indefinite  period  of  perfect  contentment.  Details 
of  managing  the  vessel,  the  study  and  practice 
of  navigation  and  seamanship,  even  settling  the 
quarrels  of  sailors  and  cooks,  are  simply  pleasant 
pastimes.  Events  which  on  shore  would  cause 
endless  annoyance  and  trouble,  at  sea  mean 
simply  more  work  and  wider  experience.  Storms, 
fog,  accidents,  are  to  the  sailor  only  incidents, 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


and  every  new  difficulty  arising  suggests  a  way 
to  meet  it. 

The  yachtsman  who  is  able  to  do  so  should 
command  his  ship  at  all  times,  and  particularly 
on  a  long  ocean  voyage.  He  will  find  more 
opportunities  to  improve  his  navigation  and  to 
develop  seamanlike  qualities  in  one  month  at  sea 
than  in  three  years'  regular  yachting  near  home. 
He  should  be  thoroughly  familiar  with  every 
department  of  his  ship,  and  by  so  doing  he  may 
rest  assured  that  time,  even  on  the  longest  voy- 
age, will  not  hang  heavily  on  his  hands. 

Probably  every  one  who  has  been  to  sea  has  a 
different  theory  as  to  the  best  class  of  yacht  for 
a  long  ocean  voyage.  Designers  have  given  us 
everything,  from  the  immense  floating  steel  shell 
inclosing  five  thousand  horse-power,  to  the  able 
little  pilot  boats  remodeled  with  all  the  comforts 
of  a  yacht.  The  Coronet  is  practically  of  the 
latter  class.  Built  in  1885,  °f  one  hundred  and 
fifty -two  tons  net  register,  one  hundred  and 
thirty-three  feet  over  all,  twenty-seven  feet  beam 
and  twelve  and  one  half  feet  draught,  she  has 
since  that  time  covered  a  greater  number  of 
miles  than  any  other  American  yacht.  Her 
career  was  opened,  and  her  first  reputation  made, 
by  defeating  the  famous  schooner  yacht  Daunt- 
less in  a  midwinter  race  from  New  York  to 
Queenstown.  Shortly  after,  she  rounded  Cape 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


Horn  during  the  worst  season  of  the  year,  mak- 
ing the  voyage  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco 
in  one  hundred  and  five  days.  Her  trip  around 
the  world,  completed  in  thirteen  months,  was 
followed  by  four  trips  to  Europe,  and  two  to  the 
West  Indies. 

The  completion  of  the  Japan  trip  has  added 
forty-five  thousand  miles  to  her  record.  During 
her  whole  history,  she  has  never  lost  so  much  as 
a  bucket  from  her  decks,  nor  met  with  any  seri- 
ous mishap.  From  my  experience  on  the  Coro- 
net, I  should  not  know  how  to  improve  upon  her 
for  a  strictly  sailing  deep-sea  cruising  yacht,  dry 
and  comfortable  in  all  weathers,  and  able  to  keep 
the  sea  and  make  passages  with  almost  a  steam- 
er's regularity. 

There  is  an  old  sailors'  maxim  that  "  they  who 
go  down  to  the  sea  in  ships  behold  the  wonders 
of  the  deep,  but  they  who  go  down  to  the  sea 
in  schooners  see  Hell,"  and  without  doubt  this 
saying  has  considerable  foundation  in  fact.  For 
running  before  a  light  wind  in  a  heavy  following 
sea,  the  long  main  boom  of  a  large  schooner 
yacht  is  certainly  a  dangerous  companion  ;  and 
should  it  break  loose,  it  would  be  likely  to  take 
charge  of  the  deck,  and  almost  certainly  cause 
serious  damage.  For  ocean  work  a  squaresail 
is  an  absolute  necessity,  for  then  the  foresail  and 
squaresail  can  be  set  and  the  mainsail  taken  in 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


when  running.  The  squaresail  yard  also  gives 
scope  to  one's  ingenuity  in  planning  additional 
skysails  and  other  forms  of  balloon  canvas.  The 
utility  of  this  rig  was  soon  discovered  after  sail- 
ing from  San  Francisco. 

The  coast  of  California  is  by  no  means  an 
attractive  place  for  yachting.  The  glorious  cli- 
mate for  which  the  state  is  so  renowned  confines 
itself  strictly  to  the  land,  while  at  sea  fogs,  gales, 
and  calms  alternate  with  surprising  regularity. 

It  was  without  much  regret  that  we  left  our 
anchorage  in  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  headed  the 
Coronet  for  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  The  San 
Francisco  bar  demanded  tribute  from  most  of 
the  party,  but  at  length  farewell  was  taken  at  the 
Farallones,  and  the  trip  to  Japan  fairly  started. 
The  first  week's  run  was  the  poorest  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  vessel,  averaging  only  one  hundred 
miles  a  day  ;  but  after  finding  the  trade  winds  in 
latitude  27°  N.,  the  Coronet  seemed  ashamed  of 
herself,  and  made  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
daily  in  the  effort  to  retrieve  her  reputation.  A 
considerable  part  of  the  distance  was  covered 
without  aid  of  the  mainsail,  under  foresail  and 
squaresail. 

The  evening  of  the  fifteenth  day  found  us 
safely  anchored  in  the  snug  little  harbor  of  Hon- 
olulu. It  is  not  the  province  of  this  chapter  to 
describe  the  beauties  of  the  Islands,  nor  to  dwell 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING  Xxvii 

on  the  delights  of  a  visit  to  what  has  been  well 
named  the  "  Paradise  of  the  Pacific,"  and  could 
with  equal  truth  be  called  the  Paradise  of  the 
World.  Even  after  extended  acquaintance  with 
the  undeniable  and  oft  described  charms  of  "  Pic- 
turesque and  Progressive  Japan,"  it  is  enough  to 
say  that  our  stay  in  the  Islands  was  the  most 
delightful  of  the  entire  trip  ;  and  it  was  the  unani- 
mous hope  that  the  mother  country  might  become 
better  acquainted,  and  more  closely  united  to  our 
countrymen  of  the  Hawaiian  Republic. 

To  the  yachtsman,  the  islands  of  the  Pacific 
lying  north  and  south  of  the  equator  afford  an 
inexhaustible  field  for  most  delightful  cruises. 
From  the  latitude  of  Honolulu  south  to  Pitcairn 
and  stretching  across  the  Pacific  to  Australia, 
are  thousands  of  islands,  many  of  them  inhabited 
by  curious  and  interesting  races. 

Yachtsmen  have  been  criticised,  and  in  some 
cases  justly,  for  using  their  magnificent  fleet  of 
vessels  as  mere  toys.  What  an  assistance  they 
might  be  in  advancing  our  knowledge  of  geogra- 
phy, if  their  pleasure  trips  could  be  turned  to 
some  practical  account !  With  plenty  of  time, 
which  is  of  course  essential  to  a  thorough  enjoy- 
ment of  any  cruise,  and  with  a  properly  equipped 
yacht  at  one's  command,  I  know  of  no  part  of 
the  world  which  would  better  repay  a  visit,  or 
which  could  yield  more  valuable  results  in  ex- 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


tending  geographical  and  commercial  knowledge, 
presenting,  as  it  does,  so  wide  and  unexplored  a 
field  for  scientific  research. 

Our  knowledge  of  the  islands  of  the  Pacific  is 
at  best  exceedingly  meagre,  and  there  is  cer- 
tainly no  class  of  men  better  fitted,  either  by  edu- 
cation or  equipment,  to  cooperate  with  the  navy 
in  adding  to  our  store  of  information  than  the 
yachtsmen  of  the  United  States. 

The  object  of  the  expedition  made  it  impossi- 
ble for  us  to  linger  long  in  Honolulu,  and  inad- 
visable to  make  any  other  stop ;  but  if  the  fates 
favor,  the  Coronet  may  before  long  again  be 
headed  for  "The  Paradise  of  the  Pacific"  and 
the  islands  of  the  southern  seas. 

There  is  no  need  of  waiting  for  a  fair  wind  or 
favorable  weather  to  start  on  a  cruise  from  the 
Islands.  The  trade  winds  are  practically  always 
fair,  and  the  sailor  need  seldom  look  for  anything 
more  terrible  than  a  rain  squall  to  interfere  with 
his  plans. 

The  afternoon  of  the  2$th  of  May  found  the 
Coronet  again  in  her  element,  out  of  sight  of 
land,  with  boats  lashed  securely  on  deck  and 
everything  snug  below  and  aloft ;  prepared  for 
anything  which  might  be  in  store  for  her  on  the 
four  thousand  miles  of  sea  that  must  be  covered 
before  reaching  Yokohama.  The  sailing  course 
from  Honolulu  to  Japan  is  considerably  longer 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


than  that  followed  by  the  steamers,  but  the  time 
at  sea  might  have  been  doubled  and  still  no  one 
would  have  objected,  so  delightful  was  the  entire 
trip.  In  order  to  hold  the  trade  winds,  we  kept 
between  the  parallels  of  18°  and  20°  north  lati- 
tude almost  the  entire  distance ;  arid  so  perfect 
summer  weather  was  assured.  Day  after  day 
the  awning  was  set  on  the  quarterdeck  and  the 
yacht  kept  on  her  way  with  scarcely  more  mo- 
tion than  would  be  experienced  in  Long  Island 
Sound.  The  long  Pacific  rollers  lazily  following, 
and  even  the  flocks  of  goonies  slowly  circling 
astern,  seemed  to  express  the  spirit  of  the  trop- 
ics and  bid  us  enjoy  southern  seas  to  the  utmost. 
Although  not  strong,  the  trades  were  almost  ab- 
solutely steady,  and  gave  us  an  average  of  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  a  day  for  the  trip. 

During  the  typhoon  season  the  coast  of  Japan 
is  not  a  particularly  inviting  place  for  vessels  of 
any  class,  and  when  our  log  showed  that  we 
were  about  two  hundred  miles  from  Yokohama, 
the  barometer  beginning  to  fall  rapidly  with 
constantly  increasing  wind  and  a  heavy  sea,  we 
thought  it  time  to  prepare  for  a  warm  reception 
to  the  country.  Evidently  we  were  on  the  edge 
of  a  revolving  storm,  the  centre  of  which  ap- 
peared to  be  traveling  rapidly  along  the  coast. 
Under  short  sail  the  Coronet  was  kept  on  her 
course  until  nightfall,  but  the  constantly  and 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


rapidly  falling  barometer  warned  us  that  it  would 
be  unwise  to  attempt  to  approach  land  until  the 
disturbance  had  passed.  A  storm  at  sea  may  be 
a  grand  sight,  but  a  little  of  it  goes  a  long  way, 
and  the  grandeur  of  the  fury  of  the  elements  did 
not  compensate  for  the  prospect  of  being  hove  to 
for  three  or  four  days  within  a  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  of  port.  During  the  middle  watch  the 
gale  moderated,  and  at  dawn  we  were  able  again 
to  make  our  course.  The  passing  of  the  storm, 
however,  had  left  behind  it  a  very  heavy  sea 
which  delayed  our  progress,  and  it  was  nearly 
midnight  of  Sunday,  the  2ist  of  June,  when  the 
light  on  Mila  Head  which  marks  the  entrance  of 
Yeddo  Bay  was  sighted. 

Yokohama  pilots  are  an  unknown  quantity. 
No  response  came  to  our  repeated  signals,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  navigate  the  channel  unaided. 
During  the  night  we  had  our  first  introduction  to 
the  methods  of  navigation  employed  by  Japanese 
fishermen.  They  sail  their  unwieldy  junks  with- 
out lights  and  without  the  slightest  regard  for 
the  "  rules  of  the  road."  Their  immense  square- 
sail  is  an  impenetrable  wall  between  the  helms- 
man and  anything  which  may  be  ahead  of  him. 
A  lookout  is  an  unheard  -  of  precaution,  so  it 
was  only  by  rare  good  fortune  that  we  avoided 
running  down  a  number  of  them  in  the  dark- 
ness. 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


By  ten  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  the  22d  we 
had  covered  the  forty  miles  between  Mila  Head 
and  the  breakwater  which  forms  the  harbor  of 
Yokohama,  passed  the  quarantine  officials,  and 
dropped  anchor  close  to  the  magnificent  United 
States  cruiser  Olympia. 

One  of  the  most  delightful  experiences  to  the 
yachtsman  on  summer  cruises  in  home  waters  is 
the  harbor  life  in  such  ports  as  Bar  Harbor,  New- 
port, and  the  other  resorts  of  our  eastern  coast. 
To  many  this  social  life  is  the  highest  ideal  of 
yachting,  and  were  it  eliminated,  the  chief  charm 
of  the  sport  would  be  taken  away.  In  foreign 
ports  such  experiences  are  by  no  means  lacking, 
and  are  on  the  contrary  far  more  interesting  and 
attractive  than  at  home. 

In  such  a  country  as  Japan  the  government 
is  most  friendly  to  Americans,  and  an  American 
yacht  receives  courtesies  equal  in  almost  every 
respect  to  those  granted  to  men-of-war.  The 
constant  interchange  of  civilities  with  the  offi- 
cials of  a  country  whose  manners  and  customs 
are  so  entirely  different  from  our  own  is  a  source 
of  never  failing  interest,  and  the  yachtsman's 
welcome  to  the  local  yacht  clubs  of  Oriental 
ports  is  more  hearty  and  sincere  than  seems  to 
be  bestowed  by  nations  which  make  greater 
claims  to  yachting  fame. 

Yokohama  is  a  favorite  rendezvous  for  the 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


ships  on  the  Asiatic  station  during  the  summer 
months,  and  the  most  delightful  memories  of 
the  entire  cruise  are  the  friendships  among  the 
officers  of  the  Olympia,  the  Detroit,  the  York- 
town,  and  other  ships  of  the  squadron.  The  time 
has  passed  when  an  American  need  blush  for  his 
country  on  meeting  our  naval  vessels  abroad. 
The  ships  that  carry  the  stars  and  stripes  in  the 
Asiatic  squadron  are  second  to  none,  and  the 
officers  are  worthy  successors  to  those  who  in 
early  days  made  American  seamen  famous  the 
world  over. 

Opportunities  for  cruising  along  the  coast  of 
Japan  are  very  limited.  Particularly  in  summer, 
the  danger  of  typhoons  and  the  absence  of  avail- 
able harbors'  make  it  unsafe  to  take  extended 
cruises.  A  trip  through  the  Inland  Sea,  how- 
ever/ is  one  which  can  safely  be  taken  by  any 
yacht,  and  which  no  yachtsman  visiting  Japan 
should  miss.  Owing  to  exceedingly  poor  trans- 
portation, this  remarkable  combination  of  land 
and  sea  has  not  received  the  attention  it  deserves 
from  writers  on  Japan.  Among  the  Japanese,  it 
is  considered  one  of  the  three  principal  sights 
of  the  country.  The  steamers  of  the  Pacific 
Mail  and  other  lines  sail  through  a  part  of  the 
Sea  on  their  regular  trips,  but  the  main  ship 
channel  gives  no  idea  of  the  quaint  little  har- 
bors, charming  scenery,  and  interesting  out-of- 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


the-way  places  which  can  be  visited,  for  the  pre- 
sent at  least  only  by  a  yacht  or  specially  char- 
tered steamer.  For  a  steam  yacht  there  are  no 
difficulties  of  navigation  to  be  overcome,  and  all 
that  is  necessary  is  to  obtain  a  pilot  thoroughly 
familiar  with  all  parts  of  the  Sea.  A  sailing 
yacht,  however,  requires  the  constant  attendance 
of  a  tug  in  order  to  pass  through  the  most  beau- 
tiful, but  exceedingly  narrow  passages  between 
the  islands.  Even  with  such  assistance,  a  sail- 
ing vessel  should  not  attempt  to  pass  the  narrow- 
est straits,  except  at  slack  water.  Many  pas- 
sages are  less  than  one  hundred  yards  wide, 
through  which  the  tide  rushes  at  the  rate  of  ten 
knots  and  more. 

Picturesque  and  perfectly  sheltered  harbors 
are  numerous.  Some  of  the  ports  at  which  we 
stopped  had  never  been  visited  before  by  foreign- 
ers, and  the  little  remote  fishing  villages  afforded 
a  splendid  opportunity  for  studying  Japanese 
character,  untouched  by  Western  civilization. 
The  ten  days  spent  in  the  Inland  Sea  were  alto- 
gether too  short  a  time  to  explore  its  intricate 
channels,  and  even  to  sail  past  the  thousand 
mountains  and  thickly  wooded  islands  which 
form  a  barrier  to  the  Pacific  and  give  the  Sea  its 
name. 

It  is  difficult  to  believe  that  the  ocean  north  of 
the  fortieth  parallel  is  the  same  old  Pacific  over 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


which  we  so  peacefully  sailed  from  Honolulu  to 
Yokohama.  In  the  south  the  principal  occupa- 
tion was  endeavoring  to  devise  new  balloon  sails 
to  catch  every  breath  of  the  light  trades,  while 
on  the  return  trip  it  was  frequently  a  scramble 
to  lower  all  sail  in  the  shortest  possible  time. 
Instead  of  balloon  canvas,  the  thought  was  to 
see  how  small  a  rag  could  be  shown  to  the  gales. 
The  yachtsman  who  wishes  to  enlarge  his  experi- 
ence and  desires  practice  in  handling  his  vessel 
under  all  conditions  of  wind  and  weather  should 
cruise  in  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

Leaving  Yokohama  the  2d  of  September  took 
us  to  sea  at  the  worst  time  of  year.  On  the 
day  before  sailing  a  severe  typhoon  had  passed 
up  the  coast,  and  three  days  later  we  encoun- 
tered the  edge  of  another  which  did  immense 
damage  about  two  hundred  miles  northwest  of 
our  position.  It  was,  then,  with  a  feeling  of  re- 
lief that  we  found  ourselves  at  the  end  of  a 
week's  sailing  beyond  the  reach  of  such  unwel- 
come visitors. 

From  a  study  of  the  chart,  one  is  led  to  ex- 
pect a  current  setting  along  the  coast  of  Japan 
and  across  the  Pacific  far  greater  in  volume  and 
strength  than  the  Gulf  Stream  of  the  North 
Atlantic.  The  kurosiwa  or  Japan  Current  un- 
doubtedly exists,  but  it  would  seem  to  be  far 
more  frequently  affected  by  the  prevailing  winds 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


than  is  the  Gulf  Stream.  Directly  in  the  sup- 
posed centre  of  the  stream  where  a  current  of 
from  one  to  three  knots  an  hour  was  expected, 
we  were  surprised  to  find  by  observation  that 
practically  no  help  was  received  from  this  source. 
Absence  of  this  current  was  still  more  of  a  puz- 
zle as  we  had  experienced  only  westerly  and 
southwesterly  winds,  which  should  have  increased 
rather  than  retarded  its  force.  The  only  plaus- 
ible explanation  to  account  for  temporary  ces- 
sation of  the  Japan  stream  is  that  the  typhoons 
which  had  been  very  numerous  during  the 
month  of  August  had,  on  leaving  the  coast  of 
Japan,  become  strong  northeast  gales.  This 
theory  was  strengthened  by  our  meeting  a  heavy 
northeast  swell  lasting  until  after  we  had  passed 
the  iSoth  meridian.  It  had  been  our  purpose  on 
leaving  port  to  follow  as  closely  as  possible  the 
great  circle  track  to  San  Francisco,  and  we  were 
fortunate  in  being  able  to  make  practically  a  per- 
fect course  the  entire  distance. 

There  was  certainly  no  monotony  in  the  sail- 
ing. Frequently  a  whole  sail  breeze  would  begin 
the  day,  increasing  by  night  to  a  howling  gale, 
followed  by  a  few  hours  of  flat  calm.  In  order  to 
realize  our  hope  of  making  a  reasonably  rapid 
trip,  constant  watching  and  active  work  on  the 
part  of  all  hands  were  necessary,  so  that  the 
short  and  precious  hours  when  it  was  possible  to 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


drive  the  Coronet  to  her  utmost  should  not  be 
wasted. 

One  gloomy,  breezy  morning,  an  immense 
waterspout  appeared  less  than  two  miles  from  us, 
traveling  toward  the  northwest.  It  was  a  grand 
sight,  but  not  a  pleasant  neighbor,  and  no  one 
regretted  its  final  disappearance  astern. 

As  we  approached  the  coast  of  California,  fog, 
the  sailor's  worst  enemy,  shut  in  upon  us.  For 
three  days  observations  had  been  impossible,  and 
we  were  obliged  to  rely  upon  dead  reckoning, 
which  although  always  kept  with  great  care,  at 
this  time  received  double  attention. 

At  eight  o'clock  on  the  evening  of  the  ist  of 
October,  we  judged  our  position  to  be  about  ten 
miles  to  the  westward  of  the  Farallones  light- 
house ;  and  as  the  fog  continued  dense,  hove  to, 
waiting  for  a  more  favorable  chance  to  run  for 
the  light.  At  midnight  the  fog  "  scaled  up "  a 
little,  and  the  Coronet  was  headed  a  true  east 
course.  Scarcely  an  hour  passed  after  getting 
under  way  before  we  heard  a  whistle  right  ahead, 
which  soon  proved  to  be  the  siren  on  the  Faral- 
lones. 

The  yachtsman  who  has  never  known  the  plea- 
sure of  making  a  light  after  a  long  and  difficult 
voyage  has  something  to  live  for.  Even  the  pro- 
fessional seaman  knows  the  exhilaration  of  the 
moment,  and  the  amateur  may  be  pardoned  if  he 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING  xxxvii 

too  feels  a  thrill  of  pride  and  pleasure.  The 
wonders  of  the  universe  never  seem  so  close  and 
real,  as  after  a  month  at  sea  with  nothing  but 
the  sun  and  stars  to  mark  one's  path.  By  their 
help  we  made  within  fifty  miles  of  the  shortest 
possible  course  between  Yokohama  and  San  Fran- 
cisco, covering  the  forty-six  hundred  miles  in 
thirty  days. 

After  passing  the  light,  fog  settled  again,  and 
the  anchorage  off  San  Francisco  was  reached  by 
aid  of  the  numerous  fog  signals  along  the  shores 
of  the  Bay,  after  having  caught  only  one  glorious 
glimpse  of  the  Golden  Gate. 

In  concluding  this  chapter  on  the  strictly  deep- 
sea  cruising  of  the  Coronet,  I  cannot  refrain 
from  urging  yachtsmen  in  general,  and  those  tak- 
ing ocean  trips  in  particular,  to  cooperate  with  the 
Hydrographic  Office  in  adding  to  our  knowledge 
of  ocean  currents,  winds,  and  other  phenomena  of 
the  sea.  Foreign  nations  recognize  our  Hydro- 
graphic  Office  as  a  model  for  all  countries,  and  its 
high  standard  of  excellence  can  only  be  main- 
tained by  the  hearty  assistance  of  all  interested 
in  seafaring  matters.  The  information  which  it 
furnishes  to  mariners  is  of  the  greatest  value, 
and  the  daily  observations  upon  which  this  infor- 
mation is  founded  can  easily  be  taken  on  any 
properly  equipped  vessel.  Our  government  is 
most  generous  in  its  treatment  of  yachtsmen, 


DEEP-SEA    YACHTING 


and  it  seems  only  proper  that  we  should  do  every- 
thing in  our  power  when  opportunity  offers  to 
assist  in  placing  the  maritime  affairs  of  the  na- 
tion on  a  basis  truly  representative  of  American 
thought  and  American  progress. 


CORONA  AND   CORONET 


CHAPTER  I 

THE    CORONET 

Swift  flies  the  schooner  careering  beyond  o'er  the  blue ; 

Faint  shows  the  furrow  she  leaves  as  she  cleaves  lightly  through ; 

Gay  gleams  the  fluttering  flag  at  her  delicate  mast  — 

Full  swell  the  sails  with  the  wind  that  is  following  fast. 

CELIA  THAXTBR. 

YEARS  ago,  a  prevalent  style  of  tale  possessed 
never-failing  interest,  though  causing  continual 
surprise  to  one  small  reader.  Ordinarily  the  work 
of  English  authors,  some  boy-hero  was  frequently 
despatched  to  India,  usually  because  of  sudden 
poverty  or  other  disaster  overtaking  his  relatives ; 
and  the  impression  given  was  that,  next  to  death, 
a  journey  to  the  antipodes  was  the  most  dismal 
of  fates. 

While  accepting  the  story-teller's  point  of  view 
so  far  as  necessary  in  sympathizing  with  the  sor- 
rows of  the  leading  family,  I  was  always  filled 
with  amazement  that  a  journey  to  India  could  be 
regarded  as  a  calamity.  I  half  wished  I  might 
have  been  that  youth  setting  off  to  seek  his  for- 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


tune  in  far  lands  ;  perhaps  a  faint  foreshadowing 
of  a  later  time,  when  I  should  become  an  adjunct 
to  the  family  of  an  astronomer,  one  of  whose 
specialties  should  be  interrogating  a  hidden  sun. 

Whatever  the  reason,  strange  journeys  to  re- 
mote regions  have  always  meant  delight,  and  had 
time  been  plenty,  the  peerless  Coronet  might 
have  had  a  passenger  on  her  trip  around  the  Horn, 
instead  of  awaiting  the  entire  party  at  San  Fran- 
cisco after  this  portion  of  her  cruise  was  over. 

Designed  in  large  part  by  Captain  Crosby,  for 
many  years  her  sailing-master,  as  well  as  by 
Messrs.  Smith  and  Terry,  she  was  built  in  1885 
by  C.  and  R.  Poillon,  of  Brooklyn,  at  a  cost  of 
about  $70,000.  At  the  time  of  the  Japanese  ex- 
pedition the  largest  sailing  yacht  in  the  New  York 
Yacht  Club,  her  finest  record  is  in  two  consecu- 
tive watches  of  sixty  miles  each,  thus  accomplish- 
ing 1 20  miles  in  eight  hours. 

Although  the  actual  dimensions  of  the  yacht 
are  given  by  her  owner  and  captain,  with  a  few 
words  as  to  her  history,  he  has  not  described  her 
beauty,  the  elegance  of  her  interior  arrangement, 
and  the  details  of  the  race  that  opened  her  famous 
career  so  brilliantly.  The  start  was  from  an  im- 
aginary line  off  Owl's  Head,  Long  Island,  at 
1. 10  P.M.  of  the  I2thof  March,  1886,  the  finish  off 
Roche's  Point,  Cork,  Ireland.  The  Coronet  occu- 
pied 14  days,  19  hours,  3  minutes,  and  14  seconds 


THE   CORONET 


in  the  passage,  winning  the  race  by  I  day,  6 
hours,  39  minutes,  and  40  seconds,  sailing  2905 
miles  ;  while  the  Dauntless  sailed  2957  miles,  — 
a  fine  race,  always  spoken  of  as  "  a  glorious  vic- 
tory, an  honorable  defeat." 

Immediately  afterward  her  owner  made  a  voy- 
age around  the  world,  the  graceful  yacht  exciting 
much  admiration  in  all  ports.  At  Honolulu, 
King  Kalakaua  came  on  board,  and  in  Yoko- 
harrta  harbor  she  was  visited  by  the  Emperor, 
who  ordered  at  once  for  himself  a  boat  exactly 
like  the  Coronet's  gig. 

In  October  of  1893,  she  became  the  property 
of  Mr.  D.  Willis  James  and  his  son. 

She  is  white,  schooner-rigged,  carrying  every 
sort  of  sail,  and  as  airy  as  a  bird.  It  is  not  to  be 
expected  that  any  wandering  breeze,  however 
light,  could  escape  all  her  alluring  opportunities 
for  usefulness  in  topsails,  staysails,  jibs,  and  raf- 
fles, —  and,  indeed,  when  this  cloud  of  canvas 
is  spread  to  a  brisk  wind,  the  Coronet  is  a  thing 
of  beauty  indescribable. 

With  gig  and  cutter  stowed  away  forward  for  a 
long  voyage,  a  fine  stretch  of  open  deck  still 
remains,  while,  no  room  being  wasted  on  en- 
gines or  coal  bunkers  below,  all  the  space  is 
available  for  living  quarters.  Finished  in  carved 
mahogany,  the  main  saloon  is  about  twenty  feet 
square.  A  piano  and  writing-desk,  easy  chairs 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


and  divans  invite  varying  moods,  bookcases  are 
filled  with  tempting  volumes,  and  an  open  stove 
of  red  tiles  shows  a  glowing  bed  of  coals  in  damp 
or  chilly  weather. 

Two  large  staterooms,  also  finished  in  mahog- 
any, contain  brass  beds,  furniture  and  walls  of 
one  done  in  pink  velvet,  the  other  in  satin  bro- 
cade. With  four  other  rooms,  each  artistically 
furnished,  ten  or  twelve  guests  are  luxuriously 
accommodated. 

A  crew  of  ten  men,  a  sailing-master  and  two 
mates,  a  cook  with  two  assistants,  and  two  stew- 
ards, the  Coronet's  freight  of  human  beings  on 
many  trips  falls  little  short  of  thirty. 

As  she  lay  during  the  autumn  of  1895  in 
Tebo's  Basin,  South  Brooklyn,  all  her  possibilities 
of  beauty,  speed,  and  grace  latent,  preparation  for 
her  long  voyage  around  the  Horn  went  rapidly 
forward.  Rigid  examination  revealed  a  tiny  spot 
in  the  huge  foremast.  The  imperfection,  less 
than  an  inch  in  diameter,  hardly  made  an  inden- 
tation on  the  surface  of  this  great  timber,  yet  at 
some  crucial  moment  a  sudden  strain  might  come 
upon  just  that  spot.  So  a  new  and  flawless  mast 
was  substituted.  No  less  minutely  was  inspec- 
tion made  of  the  whole  vessel.  New  steel  rig- 
ging was  provided,  a  thick  coat  of  paint  covered 
the  white  deck  for  the  voyage  to  San  Francisco, 
furniture  was  shrouded  in  linen,  and  heavier  parts 


THE   CORONET 


of  eclipse  apparatus  already  complete  were  care- 
fully stowed  below. 

On  the  5th  of  December,  1895,  she  left  her 
cosy  winter  quarters  to  breast  the  icy  seas  and 
gales  of  a  four  months'  voyage.  In  the  southern 
hemisphere  summer  weather  would  prevail,  but 
many  days  lay  between  the  Narrows  and  that 
genial  region. 

Her  owner  and  his  wife,  the  Astronomer  and  a 
few  guests  went  down  the  harbor  on  the  yacht, 
and,  returning  with  the  pilot,  watched  her  lightly 
skimming  the  wintry  waters  farther  and  farther 
from  sight,  as  early  December  twilight  settled 
over  the  tossing  sea.  Great  faith  is  required  in 
the  science  of  navigation,  in  the  seaworthiness  of 
his  craft,  and  the  skill  of  his  sailors,  for  a  yachts- 
man to  entrust  his  dainty  vessel  to  the  mercy 
of  winds  and  waves  during  a  voyage  of  fifteen 
thousand  miles. 

Five  days  later  the  Coronet  was  sighted  by  the 
steamship  Braemer,  nearly  a  thousand  miles  from 
Sandy  Hook,  encountering  heavy  seas  upon  the 
edge  of  a  severe  storm  through  which  the  Brasmer 
herself  had  come.  Occasionally  other  vessels 
were  sighted,  but  they  were  not  bound  in  direc- 
tions for  bringing  news  —  and  this  was  the  only 
report  during  the  long  voyage.  So  the  winter 
was  passed,  with  reasonable  certainty,  but  no 
knowledge,  that  she  was  making  her  course  safely. 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


Considering  the  Coronet's  sailing  qualities  and 
former  achievements,  this  did  not  require  an  im- 
possible exercise  of  philosophy.  Once  each  week 
her  owner  plotted  her  probable  course  and  run 
upon  the  chart,  his  faith  supplying  deficiencies 
in  actual  news. 

The  Coronet's  log  during  all  these  days  is  an 
interesting  record.  Many  fairly  good  runs  are 
set  down,  but  she  encountered  much  rough 
weather,  frequently  a  "  whole  sail  "  breeze ;  and 
suggestive,  even  if  painfully  succinct  accounts 
are  given  of  the  various  sorts  of  weather,  vessels 
sighted,  gales  coming  on,  guns  taken  below,  all 
sails  reefed,  and  "  oil-bags  got  ready." 

For  Sunday,  gth  February,  1896,  off  the  coast 
of  Patagonia,  the  entry  reads :  "  At  midnight 
wore  ship  on  account  of  the  sea.  Ship  burying 
herself  to  the  foremast,  middle  part.  Called 
all  hands  and  reefed  her  down  fore  and  aft,  and 
wore  ship.  Latter  part  much  rain  and  blowing 
hard  in  squalls." 

Farther  on  are  records  of  "Confused  sea. 
Rain.  Hove  to  under  the  fore  trysail.  Got  the 
oil-bags  over  side,  one  from  each  cat-head,  and 
one  in  the  main  rigging." 

On  Thursday,  I3th  February,  1896,  "Blow- 
ing strong.  Lying  under  reefed  storm  sails,  and 
oil-bags  over  the  side,  and  an  old  Cape  Horn 
swell  running.  It  seems  as  if  the  little  Coronet 


THE   CORONET 


would  go  end  over  end  at  times.     But  up  to  to- 
day we  have  not  lost  a  rope-yarn  off  the  deck." 

Two  days  before  anchoring  in  the  harbor  of 
San  Francisco,  a  high,  confused  sea  was  still 
running,  and  "  a  good  deal  of  tumbling  aboard." 
But  she  soon  sailed  triumphantly  into  port,  cast- 
ing anchor  at  Sausalito,  headquarters  of  the  local 
yacht  club. 


CHAPTER   II 

PREPARATION 

Pause  not  to  dream  of  the  future  before  us. 

OSGOOD. 

PROFESSORS  of  practical  astronomy  must  always 
invent.  No  mental  graces  or  acquirements  can 
supersede  a  mechanical  bent,  whereby  instru- 
ments of  whatever  sort  give  joy  and  all  tele- 
scopes delight,  merely  in  themselves,  and  quite 
independently  of  their  performance  in  bringing 
heavenly  bodies  a  few  million  miles  nearer. 

Since  in  this  generation  we  cannot  make  sun 
and  moon  stand  still,  lengthening  of  the  precious 
minutes  of  totality  can  be  accomplished  only  in 
two  ways.  One  astronomer  might  take  with  him 
ninety-nine  others,  each  with  telescope,  camera, 
spectroscope,  or  other  bit  of  apparatus  to  ask  his 
own  particular  question  of  the  calm  corona  as 
it  gleams  against  the  silent  darkness.  Or  one 
astronomer  could  transport  a  hundred  telescopes 
and  cameras,  if  only  each  could  make  its  own 
record.  In  the  history  of  science  thus  far,  eclipse 
expeditions  of  one  hundred  human  observers 
have  not  materialized,  although  an  attractive 


PREPARA  TION  9 

prospect  to  regions  unheard  of  where  such  a  mis- 
sion might  establish  itself.  But  a  composite  ma- 
chine is  possible,  by  which  a  hundred  instruments 
are  able  to  ask  simultaneously  a  hundred  differ- 
ent questions  of  the  corona  automatically,  while 
one  astronomer  sets  everything  in  motion,  pla- 
cing safe  and  implicit  reliance  in  the  precision  of 
his  mechanism.  Fortunately,  too,  machinery 
has  no  nerves  ;  for  in  the  past,  impressiveness  of 
the  scene  at  totality  has  been  responsible  for 
many  a  lapse  in  executing  well-rehearsed  pro- 
grammes. 

While  the  Coronet  was  buffeting  Cape  Horn 
swells  and  the  great  rollers  of  the  Pacific,  carry- 
ing tubes  and  mountings,  the  Astronomer  was 
hard  at  work  completing  his  invention  in  finer 
detail,  until  satisfied  that  the  prospective  minutes 
of  total  eclipse  would  be  lengthened  at  least  ten- 
fold. Specifically,  twenty  telescopes  and  cameras 
were  to  observe  and  set  down  at  the  same  time, 
all  under  electric  supervision  of  one  central  me- 
chanism ;  and  exact  records  of  the  unemotional 
tool  would  be  at  hand  after  the  eclipse  was  over, 
well  adapted  to  patient  study  at  leisure. 

So  who  could  complain  if  tubes  and  valves  and 
pneumatic  arrangements  and  object-glasses  and 
electric  devices  of  every  sort  strewed  the  draw- 
ing-room, and  measured  their  innocent  length  on 
every  floor  throughout  the  house  ?  The  family 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


of  a  professor  of  astronomy  get  thoroughly  accus- 
tomed to  all  such  trifles,  and  learn  to  step  cir- 
cumspectly among  polished  brass  and  shining 
specula,  nor  can  they  by  any  chance  be  surprised 
at  strange  occupants  of  their  desks  and  dressing- 
tables. 

The  cardinal  principle  of  this  automatic  device 
is  simple  enough  even  for  comprehension  by  the 
unmechanical,  as  an  astronomer's  relatives  are 
too  apt  to  be.  Research  on  the  corona  has  be- 
come in  these  latter  years  mainly  photographic ; 
so  that  a  multitude  of  telescopes  and  spectro- 
scopes, if  transformed  virtually  into  cameras,  are 
thus  able  to  collect  their  evidence  simultaneously 
and  independently. 

The  idea  that  machinery  could  be  made  to  ex- 
ecute these  motions,  instead  of  separate  persons, 
first  occurred  to  Professor  Todd  during  his  for- 
mer expedition  to  Japan  in  1887.  The  plan  was 
roughly  carried  out  by  native  assistants  at  Shi- 
rakawa,  on  the  old  castle  donated  by  the  Govern- 
ment for  his  observing  station.  Although  crude, 
the  separate  mechanisms  worked  so  well  that  he 
developed  the  same  theory  more  elaborately  for 
his  next  expedition  —  to  West  Africa  in  1889. 
Exhaust  air  currents  through  pneumatic  tubes, 
connected  with  each  telescope  and  plate-holder, 
were  controlled  by  a  slowly  moving  perforated 
sheet  of  paper,  similar  to  those  now  familiar  in 


PREPARA  TION 


automatic  musical  instruments.  Movements  of 
absolute  precision  allowed  the  exposure  of  over 
three  hundred  plates  during  the  period  of  to- 
tality. 

The  apparatus  proving  somewhat  bulky,  elec- 
tricity was  made  the  controlling  power  when  in 
1895  plans  were  maturing  for  Yezo.  Endless 
chains  of  plate  -  holders  of  different  sizes  were 
arranged  to  pass  before  each  of  the  twenty  tele- 
scopes, at  varying  rates  of  speed.  A  copper 
cylinder  full  of  pins  revolved  slowly,  each  pin  as 
it  passed  along  touching  its  appropriate  metal 
tooth,  and  closing  a  circuit  that  set  in  motion 
some  particular  instrument  at  any  prearranged 
instant  during  the  two  minutes  and  forty  seconds 
while  totality  should  prevail.  A  moderate  calcu- 
lation of  its  capacity  showed  that  four  hundred 
pictures  could  be  taken,  the  movement  of  each 
exposing  shutter  and  its  corresponding  plate- 
chain  being  deliberate  and  precise. 

That  all  these  telescopes  should  remain  con- 
stantly pointed  at  the  sun,  even  for  two  or  three 
minutes  on  this  slowly  whirling  earth,  farther 
mechanism  was  necessary.  Without  a  driving- 
clock  of  some  sort,  any  celestial  object  is  speedily 
out  of  the  field  of  view,  or  off  the  plate.  First, 
all  the  telescopic  cameras  are  rigidly  attached  to 
one  central  frame,  and  this  polar  axis  must  itself 
follow  the  sun  in  his  apparent  path  through  the 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


sky,  carrying  with  it  all  the  instruments.  A 
sand-clock,  used  successfully  in  West  Africa,  was 
thought  again  feasible.  By  this  arrangement  a 
heavy  weight  resting  upon  a  tube  of  sand  slides 
gently  down,  as  the  sand  runs  out  below  at  a  uni- 
form rate,  hour-glass  fashion. 

After  duly  experimenting,  the  Professor  de- 
cided reluctantly  that  the  sand  was  not,  after  all, 
sufficiently  smooth  for  his  purpose.  Ultimately 
a  column  of  glycerine  was  substituted,  to  his 
entire  satisfaction. 

Preparation  for  an  attractive  expedition  has 
one  curious  phase,  —  the  variety  of  demands  to 
join  it,  a  few  delivered  verbally,  though  chiefly 
by  letter.  From  every  walk  of  life  and  all  parts 
of  the  country  came  insistent  applications  for 
billets,  possible  and  impossible ;  each  setting 
forth  in  glowing  terms  the  writer's  especial  quali- 
fications. Every  mail  for  many  weeks  brought 
such  letters,  —  a  unique  collection. 

Certain  aspects  of  scientific  expeditions,  too, 
are  not  represented  by  clocks  and  lenses,  nor  the 
critical  selection  of  personnel.  Apparatus  did 
not  contain  the  whole  winter's  story.  Seven 
months'  absence  from  one's  native  land  means 
many  costumes.  The  rigor  of  our  own  northern 
regions,  and  of  the  first  days  on  the  Pacific,  the 
tropic  heat  of  Honolulu  and  Yokohama,  the 
memory  of  Japanese  humidity  (gloves  had  been 


PREPARATION  13 


sealed  in  Mason's  jars  to  prevent  moulding), 
camping-out  gowns  for  the  eclipse  station,  full 
dress  for  all  kinds  of  entertaining  in  foreign  and 
always  jovial  ports  —  to  provide  for  all  these  con- 
tingencies may  not  have  necessitated  the  quality 
of  brain  for  inventing  twenty  electric  observers 
of  an  eclipse  ;  but  the  problem  was  not  entirely 
simple,  nor  was  the  time  too  long  to  prepare  for 
conditions  so  varied.  By  the  middle  of  March,  a 
focus  was  approaching.  Tests  of  apparatus  were 
nearly  complete.  Crates  and  trunks  and  boxes 
were  in  readiness ;  and  one  hundred  and  seven- 
teen days  had  passed  since  the  Coronet  left  New 
York.  At  last,  on  the  first  of  April,  the  wel- 
come telegram  arrived  —  "  Coronet  in  San  Fran- 
cisco to-day.  Can  you  start  to-morrow  ?  " 

The  first  stage  of  expedition  travels  began  as 
early  bluebirds  were  singing  their  blithe  spring 
songs  among  the  budding  trees  of  the  old  college 
town,  and  a  long  good-by  was  said  to  its  classic 
groves. 


CHAPTER   III 

• 

OVERLAND 

Be  Mercury,  set  feathers  to  thy  heels, 
And  fly  like  thought. 

SHAKESPEARE,  King  John,  iv.  z. 

A  RADIANT  Easter  Sunday  was  followed  by 
heavy  snow,  submerging  New  York,  when  friends 
collected  at  the  Grand  Central  station  to  say 
farewell  that  early  Monday  morning.  Despite 
gloomy  skies  roses  filled  our  hands,  the  College 
Glee  Club  gave  the  Amherst  yell,  and  the  long 
journey  began,  with  its  sense  of  exquisite  rest  and 
lack  of  responsibility  after  constant  and  fatiguing 
preparation.  Quick  or  careless  movements,  how- 
ever, were  indulged  in  with  caution,  from  con- 
sciousness of  our  precious  surroundings,  —  lenses, 
chronometers,  photographic  plates  ad  libitum. 

At  Rochester  more  expedition  material  ap- 
peared ;  and  continually  we  were  met,  not  only 
by  friends  and  well-wishers  along  the  route,  but 
by  waiting  instruments.  Awakened  in  the  night 
by  a  stop  —  arousing  thought  immediately  con- 
centrated upon  "  another  telescope  !  " 

Mr.    Hill,   president   of  the   Great    Northern 


OVERLAND 


road,  had  generously  reserved  for  our  use  his 
own  private  car  ("  A  i  "),  which  at  Chicago  was 
quickly  filled  with  expedition  possessions,  and 
the  various  members  of  the  party  sallied  forth 
for  a  day  in  the  city.  With  the  fall  of  windy 
twilight  more  farewells,  and  pleasant  last  words 
from  the  president  of  the  World's  Fair  Commis- 
sion, and  the  discoverer  of  the  fifth  satellite  of 
Jupiter. 

There  had  been  days  of  well-remembered  plain 
in  crossing  the  continent  by  the  Canadian  Pa- 
cific years  before,  but  the  mental  effect  was 
somehow  different  from  the  impressive  and  illim- 
itable levels  of  North  Dakota  and  Montana. 
Strange  to  weirdness  and  unutterably  lonely, 
snow  often  fell  across  the  treeless  wastes,  no 
trace  of  spring  brightened  the  gray  scene,  and 
twilights  descended  in  ghostly  fashion,  as  the 
edge  of  the  visible  world  softly  faded. 

Much  of  the  landscape  was  merely  clay,  some- 
times low,  but  menacing  hills  and  ridges,  fantas- 
tic, waterworn,  —  miniature  Gardens  of  the  Gods 
done  in  mud.  Here  and  there  paths  and  tracks 
led  to  nothingness.  In  the  Fort  Peck  Indian 
reservation  spiritless  communities  collected  for 
no  apparent  reason ;  log  huts  encircled  tepees 
flying  scarlet  flags,  and  a  brawny  squaw,  chop- 
ping wood  with  vigorous  strokes,  was  watched 
with  silent  approval  by  a  row  of  braves.  Occa- 


16  CORONA  AND  CORONET 

sionally  a  cowboy  sped  along,  and  companies  of 
Indians  in  vari-colored  rags  galloped  about  on 
rough  ponies  from  nowhere  to  nowhere.  The 
days  were  dull  and  cold  like  late  November;  a 
ray  of  genial  sunshine  might  have  lighted  these 
infinite  plains  with  almost  cheerful  life,  mak- 
ing swift  shadows  and  gleams  of  brightness,  but 
under  the  sombre  sky  they  were  dead,  impassive. 
And  still  trails  wandered  off  aimlessly,  the  wind 
blew  drearily,  and  the  buttes  or  mud  cliffs  on  the 
horizon  held  out  no  promise  beyond  their  hope- 
less verge. 

An  exceedingly  fine  road-bed  these  level  lands 
afford  the  Great  Northern,  our  luxuriously  ap- 
pointed car  riding  so  smoothly  that  letters  and 
journals  were  brought  surprisingly  up  to  date, 
and  expedition  work  suffered  no  interruption. 
Life  went  on  with  great  cheerfulness,  whatever 
the  outer  scene.  It  was  an  early  discovery  that 
the  personnel  of  the  expedition  included  con- 
tralto and  soprano  voices,  and  that  the  General 
and 'the  Musician  sang  fine  bass  and  tenor.  With 
an  ample  supply  of  glees,  madrigals,  and  anthems, 
many  hours  were  spent  in  "reading,"  whose 
effects  might  not  have  discredited  a  more  sta- 
tionary quartette.  Half  unconsciously,  too,  the 
company  studied  one  another,  deciding  that  it 
was  a  harmonious  combination  as  well  in  ways 
other  than  musical,  and  likely  to  remain  so. 


OVERLAND  17 


One  memorable  morning,  against  a  royal  back- 
ground of  blue  sky,  peak  after  peak  rose  into 
early  dawn,  deeply  snow-covered,  and  inexpres- 
sibly solemn  in  that  silent  land.  To  fall  asleep 
in  a  country  of  bare  and  limitless  level,  and  to 
awake  amid  primeval  cedars,  pines,  and  spruces, 
rising  straight  and  clear  a  hundred  feet  into 
blue  air,  and  white  mountains  so  high  that  their 
summits  are  invisible  from  car  windows  —  how 
thoroughly  American  the  contrast  of  consecutive 
days  !  This  radiantly  sunny  forenoon  was  spent 
chiefly  on  the  observation  platform.  Tumbling 
Flathead  River  followed  for  miles,  and  one  great 
peak  like  the  Matterhorn  appeared  and  reap- 
peared with  superb  effect,  between  the  giant 
shoulders  of  nearer  hills. 

The  Kootenai  River  was  a  clear,  green  stream 
with  flashing  white  foam  in  its  swifter  shallows, 
and  our  train,  now  far  above  on  the  mountain 
side,  perched  on  a  high  trestle,  or  shooting 
through  ten  tunnels,  was  again  close  beside  the 
water,  where  an  occasional  fisherman  or  boatman 
gave  accent  to  a  landscape  never  lonely,  though 
almost  untouched  by  human  influence. 

Spokane  was  approached  over  level  regions 
once  more,  beneath  a  sky  like  June,  though  great 
evergreen  forests  continued,  and  the  snow-covered 
Rockies  formed  an  edge  and  finish  for  the  world. 
It  is  a  sunny  city,  fair  and  attractive,  and  the 


i8  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

country  around  was  inundated  with  flowers,  like 
a  brilliant  sea  of  pink  and  yellow  and  purple  blos- 
soming. Over  fertile  fields,  miles  square,  where 
men  were  ploughing  rich  soil,  the  mountains 
retreated  into  the  east ;  then  train  and  plain 
were  covered  by  a  cloud,  while,  more  ethereal 
in  blue  distance,  snowy  peaks  caught  sunlight 
yet,  like  the  veritable  entrance  to  some  celes- 
tial region  beyond  imagining.  Twilight  came  on 
softly,  mountains  faded,  and  smooth  gray  blotted 
out  the  world.  But  where  sunset  should  have 
been  were  streaks  of  pale  yet  bright  apple-green 
among  the  slate-colored  clouds, —  full  of  hope  and 
promise.  At  every  stop  the  clear  pipe  of  early 
frogs  filled  the  still  evening. 

Sharp  contrast  again  with  morning  —  we  were 
once  more  among  white  hills,  and  tall  evergreens 
straight  and  majestic,  every  branch  heaped  high 
with  feathery  snow.  In  the  utter  silence  and  dim 
air  the  falling  flakes  could  almost  be  heard. 
Thoughtful  railway  officials  had  sidetracked  our 
car  at  Cascade  Tunnel  over  night,  to  await  a 
special  engine  sent  to  take  us  over  the  "  Switch- 
back "  by  daylight.  This  pass  is  more  than  four 
thousand  feet  in  elevation,  and  the  road  zigzags 
backward  and  forward  until  from  the  summit 
one  may  look  down  upon  loop  after  loop  below, 
each  at  a  different  level.  Steep  as  were  the 
mountain  sides,  yet  evergreens  clothed  them  with 


OVERLAND  19 

beauty  to  the  very  peaks,  now  lost  in  drifting 
whiteness.  But  snow  covering  is  not  perma- 
nent, nor  are  there  glaciers,  as  in  the  British 
Rockies. 

A  little  hamlet  of  half  a  dozen  houses  lay  nine 
hundred  feet  below,  with  no  apparent  way  out. 
Shut  in  on  every  side  by  steep  mountains  and 
Heavy  forest,  Wellington's  horizon  is  seemingly 
halfway  zenithward. 

Spring  snowslides  not  infrequently  fall  across 
the  track,  when  rotary  snow-ploughs  come  to  the 
rescue.  At  Wellington,  word  having  just  been 
brought  that  a  train  somewhere  in  the  mountains 
needed  release,  the  expedition  was  invited  to  see 
the  "rotary"  in  vigorous  operation,  throwing  ice 
and  snow  far  down  the  gulch,  and  clearing  the 
track  speedily  and  effectively. 

All  the  peaceful  Sunday  was  spent  at  Welling- 
ton. A  walk  along  the  track  in  the  utter 
solitude  brought  overpowering  consciousness  of 
the  close  immensity  of  those  impenetrable 
heights.  Silence  was  insistent.  Faint  murmur 
from  a  muffled  brook  in  the  valley  below  and  an 
occasional  bird-song,  wild  and  sweet,  drifting 
down  into  the  white  day  from  some  unknown 
elevation,  only  intensified  the  profoundly  solemn 
quiet. 

Toward  twilight  the  storm  abated,  allowing  a 
view  of  the  paths  of  former  avalanches  straight 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


down  mountain  sides  where  tallest  trees  had 
been  torn  away  like  shrubs,  —  narrow  white 
tracks  through  the  forest.  Approaching  night 
filled  the  deep  valley  brimful  of  purple  shadow ; 
the  air  grew  warmer,  trickling  streams  from 
overhanging  drifts  added  a  sound  of  rushing 
waters.  Lights  flickered  picturesquely  from  a 
train  a  few  miles  up  the  mountain,  and  a  whistle 
now  and  then  came  down  from  the  heights. 

The  Skykomish  River  escorted  the  expedition 
through  breakfast,  among  blossoming  fruit  trees 
to  the  shores  of  lovely  Puget  Sound,  —  green 
water  touched  with  white  caps,  and  rocky  shores 
skirted  with  familiar  evergreens  like  the  coast  of 
Maine.  Beneath  many-shaded  gray  clouds  the 
radiant  Olympian  Mountains  shone  forth  fitfully, 
white  and  high,  occasionally  gleaming  in  brilliant 
sunshine,  sparkling  gates  of  some  Paradise  of 
Peace. 

Seattle  is  nobly  situated  on  successive  terraces 
above  the  Sound,  the  Olympian  and  Cascade 
ranges  in  plain  sight ;  beautiful  Mount  Baker 
and  lofty  Rainier.  But  mist  and  rain  are  over- 
fond  of  hiding  this  unparalleled  scenery.  Crim- 
son wild  currant  was  everywhere  in  blossom,  and 
the  wall-flower ;  lawns  were  smoothly  green,  and 
English  ivy  covered  many  dwellings  with  its  dig- 
nifying touch.  Still  unfinished,  the  city  abounds 
in  possibilities. 


OVERLAND 


Friends  were  here  also,  and  loyal  Amherst 
graduates  ;  but  from  New  York  to  San  Francisco 
newspaper  reporters  were  omnipresent.  Our  in- 
stant arrival  in  every  city  was  greeted  by  papers 
containing  "  full  accounts  "  of  the  expedition,  with 
ghastly  portraits  as  well,  dark  and  sinister,  less 
like  a  peaceful  body  of  innocent  scientists  than 
some  band  of  outlaws  bound  for  gore  and  gold. 
With  each  new  stop  more  reporters  scrambled 
for  more  material  for  still  other  "  stories."  But  at 
the  precise  moment  when  pads  and  pencils  were 
hopefully  brought  forth,  the  Captain,  the  Pro- 
fessor, even  the  amiable  Doctor  and  General,  by 
a  series  of  curious  coincidences,  had  immediately 
pressing  business  at  some  distant  point.  Others 
in  the  party  seemed  to  melt  away  imperceptibly, 
and  it  so  often  devolved  upon  the  present  his- 
torian, deserted  by  her  allies,  to  sustain  the  con- 
versation on  these  somewhat  trying  occasions, 
that  she  became  expert  to  a  melancholy  degree 
in  answering  questions  about  the  plans,  objects, 
incidents,  and  personnel  of  the  party. 

Often  these  interviews  were  prettily  embroid- 
ered by  the  active  imaginations  reproducing 
them.  One  paper  announced  that  the  Coronet 
was  now  awaiting  her  guests,  having  just  arrived 
at  San  Francisco  from  New  York  "via  the 
Isthmus."  Another  stated  that  "  Mr.  James  is 
the  fourth  owner  of  the  Coronet,  she  having  had 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


three  before  him."  Still  another,  confusing  a 
dignified  scientific  expedition  with  a  party  of 
Dunkards  simultaneously  en  route,  described  our 
company  as  composed  largely  of  women  and 
children  under  the  care  of  a  spiritual  adviser, 
hearty  and  healthy  in  appearance,  wearing  peace- 
ful and  happy  expressions,  and  on  our  way  to 
form  a  community  in  the  wilderness,  where  our 
own  forms  of  religious  belief  might  be  practiced 
without  hindrance. 

Memory  of  Portland  is  a  happy  blending  — 
friends,  beautiful  drives,  parks  luxuriant  with 
blossoming  trillium  and  dogwood.  At  evening 
our  little  drawing-room  was  yet  again  heaped 
with  roses,  while  once  more  a  hearty  Amherst 
cheer  gave  genial  speed  to  parting  guests. 

Southward  from  Portland,  Shasta  is  unmistak* 
able  king  of  all  the  great  brotherhood.  Inter- 
mittent snowstorms  swept  across,  white  clouds 
clung  airily  to  his  crown.  Sunset  light  turned 
the  snowdrifts  rosy  pink,  like  Mont  Blanc  from 
Chamounix. 

Darkness  brought  the  last  evening  on  board 
the  "A  i,"  and  our  affection  for  this  delightful 
ten  days'  home  was  "  done  into  rhyme "  by 
Chief,  whose  ready  gift  at  occasional  verse  was 
afterward  in  frequent  demand  :  — 


OVERLAND  23 


VALEDICTORY  LINES  TO  "A  i." 

You  have  carried  us  many  a  mile,  "  A  i," 

From  the  rising,  away  to  the  setting  sun  ; 

O'er  mountain  and  plain  have  we  sped  along, 

With  mirthful  story  and  joyous  song. 

A  happy  crowd,  without  one  "  scrap," 

Save  that  gotten  up  by  the  newspaper  chap. 

For  you  we  've  ploughed  snow,  and  filled  your  tanks, 

And  made  you  the  scene  of  schoolboy  pranks  — 

And  you  've  filled  our  tanks,  from  many  a  plate 

Placed  by  Lizzie  and  Charlie  and  Alfred  "  the  great." 

In  fact  you  're  an  A  i  car  throughout, 

And  you  know  what  you  have  on  board,  no  doubt  — 

Where  beauty  and  science  and  finance  meet, 

With  "  gyroscuti "  as  yet  incomplete, 

To  eclipse  all  things  that  get  in  the  way, 

And  at  last  to  knock  out  Sol's  dying  ray. 

But  the  rhymester  grows  sad  as  the  time  draws  near 

For  parting  —  but  then  we  shall  reappear 

On  ocean's  wave,  and  there 's  less  regret 

As  we  think  of  the  cruise  of  the  Coronet. 


CHAPTER   IV 

SAUSALITO 

Then  is  all  safe,  the  anchor  's  in  the  port. 

SHAKESPEARE,  Titus  A ndronicus,  iv. 

WHERE  was  the  Coronet  ?  How  would  she 
look  after  her  second  voyage  around  Cape  Horn  ? 
Every  member  of  the  expedition  felt  as  vital  an 
interest  in  a  first  sight  of  the  fair  craft  as  even 
her  owner  himself. 

Nothing  was  seen  of  her  on  the  way  from 
Oakland  across  the  bay ;  but  at  the  wharf  in  San 
Francisco  we  were  met  by  her  sailing-master, 
Captain  Crosby,  and  Frank  Thompson,  a  young 
man  who  had  charge  of  the  instruments  on  the 
voyage.  Both  were  brown  and  beaming  after 
the  four  months'  trip.  Their  report  showed  the 
Coronet  still  living  up  to  her  reputation  for  speed 
and  seaworthiness.  No  accident  had  marred 
her  record,  the  apparatus  came  in  perfect  condi- 
tion, and  she  lay  at  Sausalito,  a  half-hour's  ferry 
trip  from  the  city,  among  the  craft  of  the  San 
Francisco  Yacht  Club. 

Though  intended  solely  as  a  pleasure  yacht, 
the  Coronet  was  found  to  offer  unexpected  gener- 


SAUSALITO  25 

osity  in  space  for  stowing  securely  any  farther 
amount  of  scientific  paraphernalia.  The  more 
delicate  bits  of  mechanism  brought  overland  were 
soon  safely  packed  on  board,  additional  necessi- 
ties being  bought  in  San  Francisco  to  avoid 
transportation  from  New  York. 

Weeks  might  have  been  filled  solely  with  plans 
of  hospitable  friends  for  entertaining  the  expe- 
dition, and  many  invitations  were  accepted  be- 
tween visits  to  scientific  headquarters  and  the 
adjustment  of  unaccustomed  but  graciously  re- 
ceived cargo.  It  was  a  busy  time. 

Built  up  from  the  water,  clinging  to  a  steep 
hillside  and  embowered  in  foliage  and  blossom- 
ing roses,  Sausalito  possesses  singular  charm. 
From  the  narrow  village  street  along  the  bay, 
steps  innumerable  lead  upward  past  roofs  of 
houses,  past  another  tier  of  dwellings,  to  merge 
themselves  in  a  gravel  walk,  still  steeply  ascend- 
ing. Overhung  by  luxuriant  trees  and  flowering 
shrubs,  the  "  El  Monte  "  was  finally  reached. 

Not  yet  in  entire  readiness  for  her  guests,  the 
Coronet  allowed  them  to  gather  for  a  few  days  at 
that  little  inn,  —  a  place  so  distinctly  foreign  and 
picturesque  that  a  shock  of  surprise  always  ac- 
companied the  unexpected  sound  of  spoken  Eng- 
lish. A  beautiful  prospect  rewarded  the  climb. 
Yachts  lay  at  anchor  in  the  bay,  six  or  eight 
trading  vessels  and  the  Coast  Survey  steam- 


26  COKONA   AND   CORONET 

ship  MacArthur,  while  beyond,  villages  nestled 
at  the  bases  of  hills,  at  this  season  green  to  their 
summits. 

A  tropic  richness  of  vegetation  covered  the 
whole  region,  like  one  well-remembered  June  at 
Glengarriff.  In  San  Rafael  and  other  villages 
near  Sausalito  verandas  were  hidden  in  roses, 
the  "beauty  of  Glazenwood"  especially  conspicu- 
ous in  buff  blossoming  with  shell-pink  edges. 
Live  oaks  and  the  green  bay,  eucalyptus  and 
sequoia  filled  the  landscape,  with  palms  and 
evergreens.  Roses  climbed  often  over  high 
trees,  hanging  delicate  blossoms  from  the  top- 
most branches,  a  tangle  of  riotous  flowering. 
Driving  over  the  fine  roads,  Mount  Tamalpais  is 
nobly  conspicuous. 

Gradually  ship's  stores  were  sent  on  board, 
instrument  -  packing  completed,  the  protecting 
paint  holy-stoned  off  the  deck,  and  staterooms 
put  in  sailing  order.  That  assigned  to  the  As- 
tronomer and  his  companion  was  charmingly 
upholstered,  both  walls  and  furniture  in  rose- 
colored  velvet.  What  feminine  heart  would  not 
expand  with  gratified  decorative  sense,  at  the 
thought  of  thus  voyaging  daintily  over  the  blue 
Pacific  ?  Not  unhappily  I  contemplated  my 
modest  store  of  silver  wherewith  to  adorn  the 
dressing-table  in  port,  and  a  luxury  or  two  planned 
for  certain  corners. 


SAUSALITO  27 

But  the  Professor's  decorative  instincts,  while 
even  keener  than  those  of  his  household,  —  often, 
indeed,  bringing  original  suggestions  to  bear 
upon  the  home  habitation,  —  always  take  second- 
ary place  whenever  touching  the  confines  of 
scientific  pursuit.  Several  improvements,  there- 
fore, of  a  technical  and  not  wholly  aesthetic  char- 
acter had  soon  despoiled  the  pretty  pink  room. 

Raising  the  brass  bedstead  allowed  nine  deep 
drawers  beneath,  most  useful  during  all  the  long 
trip.  Two  bookcases  were  fastened  on  the  walls, 
and  a  case  of  twelve  small  drawers  for  lenses  and 
eyepieces,  plates  and  mirrors.  A  little  curved 
sofa  was  also  elevated  in  station,  that  under  it  a 
long  box  of  like  shape  might  be  inserted,  —  in- 
valuable for  gowns  and  dress-suits  all  summer. 
A  tall  but  sufficiently  inoffensive  wardrobe  was 
made  fast  beside  the  closet. 

It  was  all  very  snug  and  comfortable,  with 
ample  space  for  everything  needed  during  seven 
months  ;  but  the  stewards  looked  on  with  de- 
spairing eyes  as  more  and  yet  more  of  the  rose- 
colored  velvet  walls  disappeared ;  and  suspended 
telescopes  were  ornaments  novel  to  the  Coronet. 
Against  the  few  inches  of  uncovered  wall  the 
Astronomer's  protesting  associate  humbly  tacked 
one  or  two  portraits  of  her  ancestors,  her  de- 
scendant, and  certain  home  scenes,  and  thought 
her  troubles  over. 


28  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

But  shortly  before  sailing,  the  scientific  head 
of  the  expedition  appeared  on  board  with  a  large 
mahogany  case  in  which  ticked  loudly  a  sidereal 
break-circuit  chronometer,  which  he  calmly  pro- 
ceeded to  screw  to  the  dressing-table  top,  last 
rallying-point  for  dainty  belongings.  Descendant 
of  two  generations  of  astronomers  and  companion 
of  a  third,  however,  submissive  attitudes  of  mind 
were  inborn,  so  I  smilingly  assented  to  it  all, 
even  promising  to  wind  that  chronometer  should 
such  service  become  requisite  by  stress  of  circum- 
stance. Though  no  longer  a  bower,  the  room 
was  a  sort  of  scientific  emporium,  the  precious 
lenses  had  each  its  little  drawer,  and  everything 
was  in  comfortable  readiness. 

A  magnificent  storm  came  up  just  before  sail- 
ing. A  wild  gale  beat  the  bay  into  white-caps, 
and  set  all  the  yachts  dancing.  Communication 
with  shore  was  for  several  hours  cut  off ;  and 
even  when  the  bay  subsided  into  quiet,  the  sea 
outside  still  heaved  tumultuously. 

Just  after  luncheon  and  dozens  of  good-bys,  on 
the  2$th  April,  the  Coronet  sailed  off,  amid  dip- 
ping flags  and  booming  cannon,  our  own  pen- 
nants flying,  our  farewell  salutes  waking  Sausa- 
lito  echoes.  Out  through  the  Golden  Gate, 
across  the  bar  (showing  as  a  distinct  line  between 
pure  blue  of  ocean  depths  and  greenish,  muddy 
waters  of  the  bay),  and  into  the  broad  Pacific  the 


SAUSALITO  29 

Coronet  tossed,  where  rear-guards  of  the  storm 
still  played  with  breaking  white-caps  out  to  a  far 
horizon. 

Finally  the  Bonita,  which  had  accompanied  us 
for  a  few  miles  to  convey  back  to  the  city  our 
pilot,  a  guest  or  two,  and  a  dozen  hastily  written 
notes  of  farewell,  changed  her  course ;  there  was 
a  last  glimpse  of  a  fast-receding  shore ;  the  Faral- 
lones  were  passed,  and  the  expedition  was  left  to 
itself  in  a  wide  waste  of  waters,  with  the  Coronet 
for  our  two  weeks'  cosmos. 

"  Then  the  sun  sank,  and  all  the  ways  grew  dark." 


CHAPTER  V 

FIFTEEN    DAYS   AT   SEA 

Joyfully  to  the  breeze  royal  Odysseus  spread  his  sail,  and  with  his  rudder 
skillfully  he  steered  from  where  he  sat.  No  sleep  fell  on  his  eyelids  as  he 
gazed  upon  the  Pleiads,  on  Bootes,  setting  late,  and  on  the  Bear  that  men  call 
too  the  Wain,  which  turns  around  one  spot,  watching  Orion,  and  alone  dips 
not  in  the  ocean  stream. 

Odyssey,  v.  270  (Palmer's  Trans.) 

THE  blue  Pacific  undulated  gently,  fair  and 
sparkling ;  the  voyagers  lay  lazily  in  steamer- 
chairs,  with  the  deck  gleaming  white,  brasses 
scintillating  in  the  sun,  white  sails  rounded  with 
the  wind,  and  motion  just  airy  enough  to  exhila- 
rate. In  the  shrill  yet  not  unmelodious  whistle 
of  brown  "  goonies " 1  during  these  soft,  bright 
May  days  at  sea,  could  be  heard  potentially  songs 
of  orioles  and  bluebirds  in  New  England  orchards. 
Life  lay  dreaming  in  sunshine. 

No  throbbing  engine  stirred  the  heart  of  the 
pretty  craft  with  restless  pain  and  hot  discontent, 

1  Great  brown  albatross  always  soaring  round  the  Coronet 
when  there  was  any  breeze,  and  only  rarely  napping  their  wings ; 
but  usually  resting  on  the  water  when  we  were  becalmed,  pad- 
dling duck-like  at  the  stern,  and  unable  to  rise  except  with 
much  exertion,  at  first  getting  under  way  by  running  on  the 
smooth  water  with  extended  wings. 


FIFTEEN  DAYS  AT  SEA  31 

but  "  quivering  in  the  joy  of  her  wings "  she 
spread  them  like  a  bird  to  skim  waves  she 
scorned  to  plough  through,  tossing  them  off  in 
foam  from  her  bow. 

Already  I  had  twice  crossed  the  Pacific  Ocean 
by  steam,  yet  its  magnificent  immensity  was 
almost  unappreciated  until  this  voyage  in  a  sail- 
ing vessel.  Distance,  if  not  annihilated,  is  at 
least  mastered  by  latter-day  triumphs  of  steam  ; 
but  an  indescribable  charm  lies  in  leisurely 
traversing  enormous  ocean  spaces,  dependent 
wholly  upon  the  wind's  sweet  will ;  and  when 
breezes  depart,  lying  idly  upon  a  glassy  sea  with 
sails  hanging  limp,  a  friendly  sun  flooding  the 
decks  with  warm  radiance,  and  a  sky  of  softest, 
deepest  blue  brooding  close  above,  affords  one  of 
the  conditions  yet  remaining  in  this  swift  cen- 
tury when  time  seems  of  no  value,  and  may  be 
defied  with  impunity.  As  a  rule,  the  Coronet 
voyagers  were  good  sailors.  Chief,  an  experi- 
enced naval  officer,  enlivened  each  meal  with  new 
and  thrilling  stories,  and  one  of  his  inventions 
was  a  boon  to  the  company, —  a  chess-board  of 
ribbons  woven  upon  a  cushion,  with  pins  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pieces  to  insure  stability  whatever 
the  slope  of  the  deck.  Chief  and  Mrs.  Captain, 
the  Doctor  and  General  soon  became  conspicu- 
ous experts,  and  many  were  the  hours  absorbed 
in  this  game. 


32  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Two  or  three  days  out  a  huge  four-master 
loomed  up  superbly  in  the  south,  probably  from 
Australia,  sweeping  on  toward  San  Francisco. 

Winds  for  a  time  were  fitful,  occasionally 
dying  down  to  a  flat  calm.  In  lieu  of  any- 
thing more  startling  on  these  quiet  days,  the  loss 
of  a  baseball  overboard  was  brought  into  that 
category  of  noteworthy  incidents.  Twenty-three 
other  balls  below,  provided  against  just  such  a 
catastrophe,  were  not  enough  to  prevent  an  order 
to  lower  the  dinghy,  obeyed  as  promptly  and 
with  as  perfect  discipline  as  if  the  call  had  been 
"man  overboard."  Two  officers  speedily  rescued 
the  tossing  white  speck,  the  one  lone  object  on 
the  wide  Pacific.  But  it  had  first  to  pass  a  care- 
ful scrutiny  and  much  unsatisfactory  pecking  on 
the  part  of  several  inquisitive  goonies. 

A  taste  of  brisker  motion  in  the  prevailing 
quiet  fascinated  another  passenger  to  embark  in 
the  little  boat,  which  then  rowed  off  to  a  suitable 
distance  for  photographing  the  beautiful  yacht. 
The  sensation  was  unique  enough  for  the  risk  of 
a  genuine  peril, —  the  whole  Pacific  Ocean  with 
its  broad  and  glassy  rollers,  a  sense  of  immens- 
ity unparalleled,  and  the  tiny  dinghy,  hardly  an 
incident  on  its  surface,  our  sole  means  of  possible 
connection  with  the  rest  of  the  world. 

These  odd  goonies  were  endlessly  entertaining. 
Hundreds,  even  thousands  of  miles  they  flew 


FIFTEEN  DAYS  AT  SEA  33 

over  the  waste  of  waters.  Always  voracious, 
they  were  easily  tricked  by  trailing  cork  and 
fishhook  baited  with  a  bit  of  meat.  The  hook 
merely  caught  in  their  strong,  curved  bills,  and 
they  were  hauled  over  the  rail  entirely  unhurt, 
though  always  surprised  at  their  sudden  change 
of  environment.  Much  flapping  and  screaming 
accompanied  this  operation,  but  once  their  web 
feet  were  set  upon  the  deck,  the  birds  were  too 
heavy  and  awkward  to  fly  back  over  the  low 
rail ;  so  they  reeled  about  helplessly,  or  squatted 
flat  on  the  white  boards,  occasionally  spreading 
their  wings,  which  fold  curiously  in  angular  sec- 
tions. Weighing  usually  six  or  seven  pounds, 
these  albatross  measured  more  than  seven  feet 
from  tip  to  tip.  When  approached  they  ob- 
jected audibly,  snapping  their  bills  with  a  sharp 
click.  A  purple  and  white  ribbon  was  tied 
around  the  neck  of  one,  which  may  yet  be  roam- 
ing the  wide  Pacific  decorated  with  Amherst's 
colors. 

Goonies  were  not  our  only  visitors.  One 
morning  a  tiny  octopus,  an  unwilling  caller,  was 
washed  on  deck  by  a  heavy  sea  and  stranded. 
His  head  was  surrounded  by  tentacles  ending  in 
suckers,  —  eight  legs  and  two  long  feelers.  He 
had  a  sort  of  bill  like  a  parrot's,  hard  and  sharp, 
and  large  weird  eyes  ;  perhaps  a  miniature  edition 
of  a  famous  character  in  "The  Toilers  of  the 


34  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Sea."  Sometimes,  too,  the  brilliant  •  flying-fish 
found  themselves  unexpectedly  landed  on  deck, — 
bird-like  and  beautiful  creatures,  whose  misfor- 
tune I  deplored.  A  tiny  Portuguese  man-of-war 
was  washed  on  board  one  day,  a  fairy  bark  less 
than  an  inch  long,  and  full  of  shifting  tints  of 
blue. 

For  several  days,  in  a  region  between  the 
tumultuous  winds  off  California  and  the  steady 
trades  farther  south,  light  breeze  or  calm  pre- 
vailed, tempting  our  men  to  a  plunge  overboard 
for  an  ante-breakfast  swim.  But  a  shark  seen 
from  time  to  time  caused  this  exhilaration  to 
degenerate  into  sunrise  bucket-baths  on  deck, 
primitive  shower  baths  with  sailors  for  mech- 
anism. 

On  Sundays  everybody  appeared  in  fresh  white 
duck,  and  service  was  read  in  the  cabin,  a  number 
of  the  crew  being  always  in  attendance,  and  add- 
ing their  lusty  voices  in  the  tunes.  "Eternal 
father,  strong  to  save,"  that  magnificent  hymn  for 
the  sea,  was  a  favorite  feature. 

One  fair,  sweet  Sunday, 

"  So  cool,  so  calm,  so  bright," 

a  veritable 

"  bridall  of  the  "  sea  "  and  skie," 

a  breeze  crept  gently  over  the  water,  sails 
swelled  hopefully  —  trade  winds  had  begun.  The 


FIFTEEN  DAYS  AT  SEA  35 

great  squaresail  was  set ;  stronger  and  more 
steady  grew  the  wind  to  a  full  twelve -knot 
breeze,  and  for  several  days  the  Coronet  fairly 
hissed  through  the  water.  The  yacht  deck  is  so 
much  nearer  the  waves  than  that  of  a  steamer 
that  her  speed,  especially  in  darkness,  seemed 
prodigious,  as  phosphorescent  foam  flew  along- 
side, and  a  luminous  wake  trailed  astern.  Great 
following  seas  chased  us,  sometimes  breaking 
lightly  over  the  beam,  but  in  the  main  slipping 
harmlessly  beneath  ;  the  graceful  craft,  without  a 
word  of  protest,  sliding  up  to  the  crest,  to  float 
down  hill  again  like  a  white  seabird. 

Except  in  rough  weather,  expedition  work 
went  constantly  forward.  As  one  delicate  piece 
of  mechanism  after  another  was  completed,  all 
were  brought  for  safe  keeping  to  the  once  pink 
stateroom,  and  hung  or  nailed  or  triced  up  in 
every  available  spot.  If  one  of  its  occupants 
chanced  to  throw  out  her  hand  carelessly  in  the 
abandon  of  dreams  in  the  middle  of  the  night,  it 
was  no  uncommon  occurrence  to  hit  some  per- 
fected bit  of  apparatus  and  so  set  it  off,  to  spin 
accurately  through  all  the  movements  of  picture- 
taking  on  its  own  account,  or  of  evolutions 
which  the  half  aroused  sleeper  dared  not  inter- 
rupt. Truly,  science  acquaints  us  with  strange 
bedfellows. 

The  saloon  was  daily  the  scene  of  unwonted 


36  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

activity.  Doldrums  had  been  passed,  actually  and 
metaphorically.  Chief  and  Mrs.  Captain  spent 
sunny  hours  in  fabricating  small  holders  for 
endless  plate  chains ;  the  Mechanician  covered 
the  big  table  below  with  mysterious  devices  in 
copper  and  steel,  and  the  Musician  experimented 
with  different  sorts  of  photographic  baths.  Such 
work  as  could  be  done  on  deck  was  always  carried 
there ;  and  by  the  time  for  afternoon  tea,  always 
served  above,  the  entire  party  was  generally 
ready  to  assemble  on  rugs  and  cushions  in  shadow 
of  the  mainsail,  for  an  hour's  listening  before 
dinner  to  some  entertaining  book.  The  Coro- 
net's library,  full  and  carefully  selected,  had  been 
increased  for  this  voyage  by  friends  and  publish- 
ers until  every  taste  might  suit  itself. 

Exercise,  too,  was  not  neglected,  and  with 
more  than  eighty  feet  of  clear  deck,  the  number 
of  laps  necessary  to  complete  the  pedestrian's 
mile  were  often  accomplished,  and  all  sorts  of 
hand  over  hand  feats  on  taut  halyards  were 
performed,  to  the  edification  of  the  less  ath- 
letic. 

The  picturesque  habit  of  singing  shanties  1 
while  hoisting  the  mainsail  is  still  preserved 
among  sailors  on  the  Pacific.  Finding  that  this 

1  The  word,  coming  undoubtedly  from  the  French  chanter, 
has  been  perverted  by  unknown  evolution  to  its  present  use  and 
form. 


EXPEDITION   WORK   ON    BOARD 


FIFTEEN  DAYS  AT  SEA 


37 


ancient  though  fast  dying  custom  was  thoroughly 
appreciated,  our  sailors  gave  many  specimens, 
the  mate  singing  a  first-line  solo,  joined  by  the 
rest  in  a  chorus  following.  'With  an  accom- 
paniment of  such  rhythm  the  big  sail  steadily 
ascended.  An  exceedingly  interesting  custom, 
with  the  peculiar  hitch  in  the  average  sailor's 
voice,  it  is  a  performance  not  to  be  forgotten. 

A  number  of  these  melodies  became  familiar, 
but  the  words  were  apt  to  vary  with  the  solo- 
ist's ability  to  adapt  current  events  to  necessary 
metre.  Versions  in  honor  of  the  Coronet  unfail- 
ingly brought  a  full  audience.  One  of  the  most 
popular,  with  several  sets  of  words,  ran  :  — 


f  r-rr^i-Jjff^r^ga 


1  Yankee  ship  comes  down  the  river,  blow,  boys,  blow. 

The  Yankee  ship  comes  down  the  river,  blow,  boys,  bully 
boys,  blow ! 

2  How  d'  ye  know  she 's  a  Yankee  liner  ?  Blow,  boys,  blow,  etc. 

3  Stars  and  stripes,  and  spangled  banner. 

4  What  d'  ye  think  of  the  Captain  of  her  ? 

5  John  L.  Sullivan,  Boston  slugger. 

6  What  d'  ye  think  of  the  chief  mate  of  her  ? 

7  Charlie  Mitchell,  English  bluffer. 

8  What  d'  ye  think  they  had  for  dinner  ? 

9  Monkey's  heart,  and  donkey's  liver. 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


10  Do  yer  know  she 's  a  Havre  packet  ? 

1 1  How  d'  yer  know  she  's  a  Havre  packet  ? 

12  When  she  fires  a  gun,  you  hear  the  racket. 


"  Blow    the    man 
favorite :  — 


down "    was   also   a  great 


1  Oh,  we  are  the  sailors  to  join  the  Black  Ball,  uwa,  wa,  blow 

the  man  down, 

Oh,  we  are  the  sailors  to  join  the  Black  Ball, 
Give  us  some  time  to  blow  the  man  down. 

2  When  Black  Ball  sailor  get  clear  of  the  land, — 

he  has  a  variety  of  experiences  emphatic  rather 
than  elegant. 

With  temperatures  constantly  warmer  came 
evenings  on  deck,  sometimes  with  informal  lec- 
tures on  astronomy  illustrated  by  constellations 
conveniently  at  hand  —  or  again  quartettes  sung 
by  the  light  of  swinging  lanterns. 

One  of  the  company,  whose  energy  needed 
some  vent,  planned  a  small  paper,  called  the 
"  Coronet  Saturday  Evening  News,"  to  which  the 
reluctant  company  contributed  articles,  grave  or 
gay,  current  or  historic,  —  its  society  column 
especially  brilliant, —  and  poems  of  much  grace. 


FIFTEEN  DAYS  AT  SEA  39 

Though  without  cheerful  submission  to  this  draft 
upon  intellectual  resources,  reading  of  the  first 
number  was  greeted  with  much  applause  —  from 
the  contributors.  In  default  of  a  press  on  board, 
transcription  of  this  interesting  sheet  devolved 
upon  the  editor,  who  spent  her  entire  day  in 
the  operation.  Volume  I.  number  I,  therefore, 
comprises  the  whole  edition  of  this  unique  publi- 
cation. 

After  the  advent  of  the  trades,  daily  runs 
averaged  high  :  one  triumphant  noon  record  was 
two  hundred  and  fifty-three  miles ;  and  night  after 
night  was  full  of  the  creak  of  woodwork  and 
straining  sails  as  the  great  boom  tugged  at  the 
main  sheets,  and  an  occasional  sea  swirled  along 
decks  when  the  bow  dipped  into  some  watery 
mountain. 

Toward  the  end  of  the  second  week,  society 
around  the  yacht  was  increased  by  the  advent  of 
beautiful  white  birds,  nautically  named  sea-hawks. 
Mother  Carey's  chickens,  too,  arrived,  and  mar- 
linespikes  with  their  two  long  tail-feathers.  Even 
the  goonies  adopted  fuller  dress,  now  appearing 
with  white  bands  around  neck  and  tail.  Over 
a  brilliant  blue  and  restless  ocean,  covered  with 
flashing  whitecaps,  the  Coronet  was  rapidly  near- 
ing  Honolulu. 

One  big  sailor  developed  a  remarkable  gift  at 
telling  astonishing  tales  without  a  shadow  of 


40  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

foundation.  Various  members  of  our  party  often 
went  forward  to  experience  the  enlivening,  influ- 
ence of  his  talent  for  relating  hypothetical  inci- 
dents truly  marvelous.  Usually  Big  Jim's  yarns 
were  re-spun  upon  the  quarter-deck. 

Colossal  drawn-work  upon  canvas  in  a  vari- 
ety of  patterns  was  made  a  sort  of  leisure-hour 
occupation  for  the  sailors,  and  afterward  used  in 
port  to  ornament  the  starboard  gangway. 

Another  beautiful  Sunday  morning  dawned, 
and  with  it  a  dim  suggestion  of  cliffs  and  moun- 
tains on  the  far  horizon.  Off  the  port  bow  this 
faint  shadow  grew  more  distinct,  until  the  barren 
slopes  of  Molokai  came  clearly  into  view,  cut  by 
enormous  clefts,  and  streaked  with  tumbling  cas- 
cades. Soon  after  Oahu,  on  which  Honolulu  is 
situated,  rose  above  the  waves,  its  rough,  volcanic 
mountains  sharply  abrupt,  and  a  little  later  dash- 
ing surf  was  discerned.  As  the  Signal  Station 
on  Diamond  Head  came  into  view,  we  ran  up 
four  flags,  K  D  J  B,  meaning  "Coronet,  New 
York." 

A  gorgeous  sunset  was  flooding  the  world  as 
this  bit  of  official  introduction  took  place.  Great 
cumulus  thunder  heads  were  edged  with  daz- 
zling gold ;  from  a  rift  above,  sun  rays  streamed 
over  the  rough  peaks  of  Oahu  and  the  uneasy 
sea  like  a  huge  inverted  halo.  Gradually  the 
whole  sky  grew  yellower,  until  everything  was 


FIFTEEN  DAYS  AT  SEA  41 

bathed  in  liquid  gold ;  then  the  clouds  broke 
into  shreds,  and  the  glory  of  the  Lord  came  down 
and  brooded  over  the  waters. 

Lights  in  Honolulu  flashed  out  with  darkness, 
one  by  one,  and  after  the  wide  wastes  of  over 
two  thousand  miles  of  the  lonely  Pacific,  it  was 
friendly  and  homelike  to  know  of  other  human 
beings  near  by,  even  on  a  remote  cluster  of  ocean 
islands.  Blue  fire  was  burned  for  a  pilot,  who 
speedily  responded  with  a  tug,  whose  whistle  that 
quiet  Sunday  evening  announced  our  arrival  to 
the  city,  already  some  days  on  the  lookout  for  the 
Coronet. 

Soon  in  warm,  semi-tropical  darkness,  we  were 
anchored  in  the  narrow  bay,  with  nothing  of 
Honolulu  apparent  except  twinkling  lights  and 
a  dim  mountain  background,  sharply  serrated 
against  the  starlit  sky. 


CHAPTER   VI 

LIFE    IN   HONOLULU 

The  poetry  of  earth  is  never  dead. 

KEATS. 

"  PASS  the  first  shower  and  turn  to  the  right " 
—  so  runs  the  answer  to  inquiring  strangers,  de- 
sirous of  reaching  any  given  point  in  Honolulu. 

But  the  rain  seems  to  have  a  curiously  unwet- 
ting  character,  like  the  swift  downpours  in  sunny 
Bermuda ;  or  else  it  possesses  some  attractive 
quality  sufficient  to  counteract  any  unpleasant 
moisture.  Nature  behaves  as  if  uncertain  whether 
she  is  shining  or  showering,  both  rider  and 
pedestrian  sharing  her  indecision. 

A  fascinating  city  is  Honolulu,  embowered  in 
tropical  foliage  fairly  smothered  in  riotous  vines, 
chasing  one  another  in  reckless  race  of  crimson 
and  golden  and  purple  blossoming  to  the  very 
tops  of  trees  and  buildings.  Solid  masses  of 
color  dangle  high  in  air,  and  groups  of  Japa- 
nese and  Chinese  give  a  certain  oriental  effect  to 
its  thoroughfares.  Native  Hawaiians,  the  women 
in  the  prevailing  white  holoku,  or  unadorned 
"  Mother  Hubbard,"  throng  the  streets,  and  with 


LIFE  IN  HONOLULU  43 

some  admixture  of  foreign  blood  are  often  hand- 
some. 

Architecture  is  simple  and  inoffensive,  dwell- 
ings retreating  behind  wide  verandas,  so  shaded 
by  verdure  that  their  modest  lines  are  quite  hid- 
den. Portuguese  houses  may  always  be  recog- 
nized by  their  attendant  goat,  grapevine,  and 
tiny,  naked  baby.  The  rocks,  chiefly  volcanic, 
are  too  porous  for  building  material,  most  of  the 
native  woods  are  too  hard,  and  though  a  few 
edifices  of  a  sort  of  coral  conglomerate  may  be 
seen  among  occasional  grass  huts  of  natives, 
speaking  generally  houses  are  brought  as  timber 
from  Oregon  or  Washington. 

After  mid-ocean  coolness,  the  heat  was  notice- 
able, and  at  breakfast  cream  and  fresh  fruits  ap- 
peared ;  while  artistic  water-jars,  red  "  monkeys  " 
of  various  shapes,  adorned  the  sideboard.  The 
awning  was  made  fast  over  the  quarter-deck,  and 
staterooms  were  put  into  port  order;  even  the 
obtrusive  chronometer  was  taken  on  shore  for 
rating,  though  telescopes  still  continued  to  adorn 
the  once  rose-colored  room. 

Paradise  indeed,  —  the  bits  of  coral  and  vol- 
canic loveliness  are  rightly  named.  Lapped  by 
gentle  surf  from  the  blue  Pacific,  fanned  by 
trade-winds  which  steal  away  its  fierceness  from 
southern  sunshine,  singularly  free  from  damp- 
ness, the  islands  are  bathed  in  an  ineffable  glow 


44  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

of  dreamy  terrestrial  atmosphere  no  less  than  in 
a  certain  poetic  aroma  left  from  the  old,  half- 
barbaric  yet  charming  life  of  long  ago. 

Although  the  wonderful  cloaks  and  helmets  of 
yellow  feathers  once  worn  by  royalty  are  now 
seen  only  in  museums,  there  is  even  yet  a  sug- 
gestive national  picturesqueness.  Men  lounging 
about  wharves  and  corners  wear  hat-bands  and 
decorations  of  peacock  feathers,  and  chains  (lets 
in  the  native  language)  of  brilliant  flowers  about 
their  necks.  At  a  moment's  notice  any  chance 
group  can  take  up  guitars  or  the  little  ukulele, 
playing  and  singing  together  in  delightful  har- 
mony the  half-plaintive  and  wholly  sweet  Ha- 
waiian airs,  with  soft  words  like  running  water. 
A  limp  language,  chiefly  liquids  and  vowels, 
it  is  peculiarly  suited  to  music.  When  the  lin- 
guistic brook  flows  over  a  sharp  pebble,  usually 
a  "  k,"  it  is  for  an  instant  broken  into  pretty  rip- 
ples and  flashes  of  sound,  but  it  soon  glides  on- 
ward again,  smooth  and  unruffled. 

Society  is  distinctly  American  —  constantly 
more  so.  American  money  is  current,  schools 
are  founded  upon  our  system,  text-books  pub- 
lished in  the  United  States  are  used,  and  instruc- 
tion is  almost  wholly  in  English.  Recognized 
as  the  vernacular  in  1876,  it  became  compulsory 
in  the  schools ;  but  even  in  earlier  days  it  was 
studied  by  all  high-class  Hawaiians. 


LIFE  IN  HONOLULU  45 

Uneasy  political  elements  abounded.  Royal- 
ists still  hoped  hopelessly  for  "  restoration  "  and 
a  limited  monarchy,  with  its  accompaniment  of 
pleasant  and  characteristic  court  life ;  others 
looked  for  the  return,  as  sovereign,  of  the  popu- 
lar princess  Kaiulani,  then  in  Europe,  her  cabi- 
net composed  of  the  best  American  element  —  a 
sort  of  amiable  compromise.  But  as  a  rule  the 
influential  inhabitants  earnestly  desired  annexa- 
tion to  the  United  States  as  a  practical  solution 
of  vexed  questions  agitating  the  little  republic. 
Since  that  hope  long  deferred  is  now,  happily,  an 
accomplished  fact,  their  joy  can  almost  be  felt, 
meeting  our  cordial  hand-clasp  across  the  leagues 
of  land  and  sea. 

President  Dole's  charming  manner,  tactful  ad- 
ministration, and  personal  popularity  had  appar- 
ently laid  for  a  time  the  restless  ghosts  of  politi- 
cal disquiet,  but  it  was  a  period  of  waiting  only. 
Effervescence  seethed  below  the  surface  lull,  and 
island  politics  were  too  complicated  for  easy  dis- 
entanglement. To  all  our  band  of  voyagers  it 
seemed  incredible  that  the  powers  at  Washington 
should  delay  annexation  of  the  fair  islands,  in  gen- 
eral so  ardently  wishing  it,  so  American  in  their 
development,  with  their  wealth  in  sugar,  in  coffee, 
and  in  fruits,  their  persuasive  climate,  their  end- 
less possibilities.  Almost  from  the  moment  of 
landing  it  seemed  that  the  stars  and  stripes 


46  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

must  soon  float  unchallenged  from  Government 
House.  That  and  all  the  other  public  offices  and 
residences  were  duly  pointed  out ;  all  very  much 
resembling  sub-tropical  edifices  elsewhere  in  the 
world,  but  it  hardly  seemed  to  matter  what  any- 
thing was  for,  or  who  lived  under  any  especial 
roof,  when  all  over  the  city  was  such  a  rush  of 
bloom  and  verdure,  a  commingling  of  delicious 
odors  and  flickering  sun  and  shade  from  over- 
arching palms  and  banyans. 

Picnic  making  in  Honolulu  is  a  fine  art.  Open- 
air  entertaining  is  constant.  A  lawn  tea  one 
evening  at  Waikiki,  a  suburb  of  the  city,  is  still  a 
sort  of  fairy  memory.  A  low,  verandaed  house, 
far  back  among  sheltering  trees  and  vines,  showed 
welcoming  faces  to  the  arriving  guests,  who  were 
conducted  to  a  sort  of  outdoor  drawing  -  room 
(lanai),  open  on  three  sides  to  an  enchanting 
garden  close  to  the  sea.  Lapping  gently  against 
the  white  beach,  summer  ripples  almost  reached 
the  algarobas  in  the  sand,  whose  feathery  foli- 
age threw  delicate  shadows  from  the  western 
sun.  On  the  grass,  light  tables  stood  about,  each 
with  a  bowl  of  plumeria  or  other  characteristic 
flower;  a  larger  table  at  one  side  was  covered 
with  bright  lets,  fragrant  coffee  and  dainty  re- 
freshment. One  of  our  hostesses  had  been  an 
old  friend  in  Washington,  years  before,  when  her 
husband  was  Hawaiian  minister  to  the  United 


LIFE  IN  HONOLULU  47 

States.  Strolling  or  sitting  in  groups  under  the 
trees,  with  leis  (bright  flowers  for  the  ladies,  a 
sort  of  green  laurel  for  the  men)  thrown  over 
their  shoulders,  the  guests  were  served  by  softly 
stepping  Japanese  maids. 

Toward  the  city  tall  cocoanut  palms  stood  out 
on  a  point  of  land  in  silhouette  against  the  yel- 
low sunset.  On  the  other  side  rose  Diamond 
Head,  bleak,  barren,  impressive  in  the  purpling 
east.  As  twilight  crept  onward,  Japanese  lan- 
terns began  to  gleam  here  and  there  among  the 
shrubbery ;  but  no  trace  of  chill  or  dampness 
touched  the  air,  and  on  the  darkening  sea  hori- 
zon the  southern  cross  burned  in  white  splendor. 

A  quintette  of  native  musicians  sat  in  shadow, 
playing  the  ukulele,  a  banjo,  two  guitars,  and  a 
taropatck,  occasionally  singing  Hawaiian  melo- 
dies full  of  surface  gayety  and  lightsome  rhythm, 
yet  soon  revealing  an  unsuspected  undercurrent 
of  deepest  pathos.  To  the  gliding  music  two 
or  three  friends,  for  our  edification,  danced  na- 
tive figures  on  the  grass  —  strange  and  graceful. 
All  danced  for  a  time  in  the  drawing-room,  but 
the  dim  lawn,  the  sweet,  haunting  music,  and  the 
lapping  waves  cast  an  unresisted  spell,  and  the 
company  soon  drifted  out  under  the  algarobas. 

Late  in  the  summer  night  a  happy  party  drove 
back  to  the  city,  and  were  rowed  out  to  the 
Coronet  at  her  anchorage  in  the  dusky  harbor. 


48  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Valleys  are  numberless,  an  especial  charm  of 
the  islands.  There  picnics  most  abound.  One 
fair,  fresh  day  we  rode  on  horseback  through  the 
city  and  up  Manoa  Valley ;  leaving  the  horses 
at  a  Chinaman's  domain,  a  short  walk  through 
banana  groves  brought  us  to  a  rushing  stream, 
whose  banks,  thickly  covered  with  rich  vegeta- 
tion, rose  steeply  against  the  blue  sky,  seclud- 
ing the  little  camping-ground.  Distant  hillsides 
were  exquisite  with  bluish-green  atmosphere  and 
caressing  sunshine. 

Picnics  in  other  environment  than  valleys  were 
no  less  lovely  —  on  famous  beaches  where  we 
first  had  surf-baths  in  a  rainbow-tinted  sea,  after- 
ward sitting  upon  the  grass  for  luncheon  on 
closely  woven  native  mats,  the  making  of  which 
is  almost  a  lost  art.  Picnics  were  given  on  moun- 
tain-tops, upon  verandas  and  in  gardens  —  at 
Laiakanoe  hale  (Point  of  Mists)  near  Pearl  Har- 
bor, where  the  whole  American  navy  may  now 
make  itself  at  home,  with  the  Waianea  mountains 
(Watchtowers  of  the  West)  forever  upon  guard. 
The  sweet,  simple,  gracious  life  of  the  islands  is 
delicious  even  in  retrospect. 

Surf-riding  is  an  exciting  amusement ;  native 
boatmen,  each  with  a  happy  passenger  in  his 
canoe,  paddle  out  beyond  the  breaking  waves, 
only  to  ride  beachward  on  a  rushing,  foamy 
crest.  Bathing-suits  are  necessary  for  the  pas- 


LIFE  IN  HONOLULU  49 

senger  (the  islander  does  not  trouble  himself 
with  one)  because  overturns  are  not  infrequent. 
If  the  foreigner  can  swim  until  the  native  comes 
to  his  aid,  all  is  well.  Most  persons  can  do  so, 
and  are  generally  rescued  alive,  though  not  inva- 
riably. Still,  the  perilous  pastime  continues  in 
unabated  popularity. 

Ladies  use  no  side  saddles.  With  full,  divided 
skirts  the  Hawaiian  method  of  riding  is  not  less 
graceful  than  our  more  accustomed  fashion,  be- 
sides being  more  hygienic  for  both  horse  and 
rider%  Tennis  and  golf  clubs  add  their  testi- 
mony to  a  certain  fresh  tonic  in  the  balmy  air. 
Yet  the  purely  native  character  is  undeniably 
indolent,  amiable,  and  careless  of  the  morrow, 
with  an  untroubled  satisfaction  in  the  sunshine 
and  bananas  of  this  life.  To  the  average  Amer- 
ican manner  its  southern  softness  and  grace  are 
added,  producing  a  charm  too  frequently  absent 
from  more  prosaic  conditions  at  home. 

The  President  and  Mrs.  Dole  were  unwearied 
in  personal  kindness  to  the  expedition.  A  break- 
fast, among  other  pleasant  attentions,  was  given 
us  at  the  executive  mansion  one  dewy  morning, 
amid  palms  and  birds  and  flowers.  The  dining- 
room  was  wide  open  to  veranda  and  garden,  full 
of  summer  scents  and  murmurs,  heavy  shade  of 
bread-fruit  trees,  and  sound  of  dripping  foun- 
tains. The  first  six  courses  were  fruits,  —  alliga- 


50  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

tor  pears,  papaia,  fresh  figs  with  cream,  mangoes, 
pomegranates,  and  more  familiar  strawberries, 
bananas,  and  oranges.  Another  morning  Mrs. 
Dole  invited  to  her  beautiful  home  thirty  or  forty 
friends,  members  of  an  informal  literary  club,  to 
meet  the  guest  from  over-seas.  With  none  of 
the  harassed  ferment  and  eager  attitude  charac- 
teristic of  that  objectionable  type,  the  genuine 
new  woman,  these  native-born  ladies  of  Amer- 
ican descent  were  an  audience  appreciative  to 
an  inspiring  degree.  Discriminating  in  their 
criticism,  they  showed  the  gracious  effect  of 
careful  study  in  conditions  of  untroubled  leisure. 

Sojourners  in  this  enchanted  land  are  always 
taken  to  the  pali  (precipice).  Back  from  the 
city  climbs  the  road,  through  Nuuanu  valley, 
between  curious  peaks  and  ridges  of  volcanic 
hills,  ten  or  twelve  hundred  feet  high,  and  past 
roadsides  abounding  in  bright  lantana.  Scarlet 
and  orange  and  yellow,  it  is  always  at  first 
greatly  admired  by  visitors,  conspicuous  in  their 
buttonhole  bouquets  of  the  gay  blossoms.  But 
no  resident  would  be  guilty  of  disporting  himself 
in  the  flowers  of  this  overrunning  pest,  supplant- 
ing as  it  does  worthier  growths,  and  causing  great 
wrath  in  the  innocent  breasts  of  husbandmen 
and  householders.  It  is,  however,  not  less  dec- 
orative because  objectionable  to  agriculture. 

Brightly  green  in  afternoon  sunshine  rose  the 


RESIDENCE   OF   PRESIDENT  DOLE    IN    HONOLULU 


LIFE  IN  HONOLULU  51 

valley's  inclosing  walls,  their  summits  shrouded 
in  soft  cloud,  often  condensing  suddenly  in 
swiftly  passing  showers.  Carefully  cultivated 
fields  of  kalo  (or  faro)  showed  each  root  of  hand- 
some leaves  set  off  by  itself  in  a  little  hill  sur- 
rounded by  water.  Personally  I  could  wish  this 
highly  useful  plant  might  be  kept  exclusively  for 
decorative  effect,  wherein  it  is  a  success ;  since 
as  basis  of  poi,  the  national  food,  it  becomes  an 
unappetizing  edible  of  barbarous  qualities. 

In  1795  the  Napoleon  of  Hawaii,  Kamehameha 
the  First,  fought  a  great  battle  near  the  present 
Nuuanu  road  in  his  final  conquest  of  Oahu,  one  of 
the  last  islands  to  acknowledge  his  supremacy. 
His  enemies  fought  bravely  until  their  leader  Kai- 
ana  was  killed,  which  utterly  discouraged  and  soon 
laid  them  low ;  while  the  remnants,  forced  up  the 
narrowing  valley  before  the  victor,  were  finally 
driven  over  the  pali  at  its  head,  800  feet  into  the 
plain  below. 

Looking  backward  for  an  instant  from  this 
battlefield,  the  city  lay  bathed  in  warm  sunlight ; 
far  beyond  the  blue  sea,  hazy  with  distance, 
gleamed  to  a  shimmering  horizon.  The  valley 
closes  in  yet  more  narrowly  as  the  road  continues 
to  ascend,  and  at  last  a  low  wall  ahead  apparently 
bars  farther  progress,  and  giant  sentinel  towers 
of  rock  rise  several  hundred  feet  on  either  side. 
No  premonition  of  approaching  grandeur  touches 


52  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

one's  expectation  ;  only  some  pretty  vista  is  an- 
ticipated, like  scores  of  others  the  world  over. 
But  beyond  that  wall  the  scene  might  well  be  in 
some  novel  planet,  so  rare  and  radiant,  so  shin- 
ing and  peaceful,  so  far  and  grand  —  its  effect 
was  too  overpowering  for  more  than  the  first  ex- 
clamation of  delight. 

Directly  below  the  parapet  falls  a  steep  preci- 
pice. At  its  foot  is  a  serene  and  sunny  country 
bathed  in  unspeakable  peace  after  aeons  of  un- 
forgotten  volcanic  agony,  —  stretching  indefinite 
miles  to  right  and  left,  and  joining  northward  the 
pale  and  misty  sea,  with  white  surf  breaking 
high  on  many  a  rocky  point,  or  creeping  silently 
up  to  silvery  beaches  curving  around  distant 
bays.  Over  all,  brooding  sunshine,  pensive  in 
still  beauty ;  close  at  our  left  an  amazing  pin- 
nacle of  reddish  volcanic  rock,  hundreds  of  feet 
above.  Curving  sharply  to  the  right,  and  de- 
scending steeply  under  a  perpendicular  wall,  the 
road  zigzagged  downward  to  sea-level. 

No  words  even  suggest  the  strange  grandeur, 
the  foreignness,  the  exquisite  beauty,  the  illimit- 
able pathos  of  this  pali.  Its  charm  "  vanishes  in 
the  writing,  and  remains  dumb  in  the  telling." 
But  in  my  innermost  heart  of  memory  it  dwells 
for  all  time.  During  an  instant  of  joyful  awe  it 
seemed  that  this  world  lay  solemnly  in  the  very 
presence  of  God. 


LIFE  IN  HONOLULU  53 

With  return  to  every-day  emotions  once  more, 
consciousness  of  the  furious  wind  grew  unplea- 
santly insistent ;  and  a  native  boy,  carrying  a 
violin  and  riding  a  much  decorated  horse,  passed 
by  and  down  the  steep  path,  with  never  a  glance 
at  the  outspread  glories,  but  many  an  interested 
one  at  the  strangers. 

A  unique  sight  in  Honolulu  is  the  magnificent 
Bernice  Pauahi  Bishop  Museum,  which  contains 
the  finest  collection  of  South  Sea  Island  speci- 
mens in  the  world,  an  epitome  of  Polynesian  eth- 
nology and  natural  history.  Founded  in  1889  by 
the  Hon.  Charles  R.  Bishop  in  memory  of  his 
gifted  wife,  herself  a  direct  descendant  of  the 
Kamehameha  line  and  actually  heir  to  the  throne, 
the  nucleus  of  the  collection  was  Mrs.  Bishop's 
own  store  of  mats,  calabashes,  and  distinctively 
Hawaiian  relics,  bequeathed  to  her  as  sole  survivor 
of  the  original  royal  line,  and  supplemented  by  be- 
quest of  Queen  Emma's  treasures.  Later  collec- 
tions made  in  New  Guinea  and  New  Zealand  came 
to  its  shelves,  and  now  the  whole  story  of  Poly- 
nesia may  be  read  within  these  remarkable  walls. 

The  Kamehameha  schools  for  boys  and  for 
girls,  established  by  the  will  of  Mrs.  Bishop,  are 
still  farther  monuments  to  the  extraordinary  gen- 
erosity and  wisdom  of  this  unusual  woman,  and 
to  her  husband's  well-directed  liberality.  Native 
girls  in  airy,  comfortable  recitation  rooms  are 


54  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

carefully  taught  subjects  of  probable  use  in  after 
life.  They  sang  for  us  American  songs,  occasion- 
ally one  of  their  own  quiet  melodies  with  soft 
Hawaiian  words. 

Far  back  in  the  misty  annals  of  this  little  group 
of  famous  islands,  women  here  and  there  emerge 
from  a  gray  past  in  bright  relief, —  welcome  inci- 
dents in  a  monotonous  story  of  conquest  and 
rebellion,  war  and  victory.  Even  in  prehistoric 
times  wives  of  chiefs  played  conspicuous  parts ; 
and  in  half  fabulous  tales  of  old  voyages,  the 
hero-chieftain  took  in  the  great  canoe  his  wife 
and  his  astronomer,  —  evidences  of  good  taste 
and  sagacity  in  that  twilight  period  of  Pacific 
island  history. 

Astrology  was  practiced,  and  its  devotees  con- 
tinually studied  the  heavens,  the  places  of  moon 
and  planets  in  relation  to  especial  stars  and  con- 
stellations being  deeply  associated  with  the  for- 
tunes of  many  high  families.  Navigation  by  the 
stars  was  constantly  practiced.  Not  only  at  sea 
were  women  brave  and  helpful ;  but  warriors' 
wives  often  followed  in  the  rear  of  armies,  carry- 
ing food  and  water,  and  sometimes  aiding  the 
belligerents  more  practically.  Manono,  wife  of  a 
brave  and  popular  young  chief  at  the  head  of  an 
insurrection,  fought  by  his  side,  continuing  her 
part  in  the  battle  when  he  fell,  finally  herself 
dying  upon  his  prostrate  body. 


LIFE  IN  HONOLULU  55 

Rank,  too,  descended  through  the  mother,  and 
marriages  of  high  chieftains  were  carefully  regu- 
lated. A  queen's  son  was  a  noble,  no  matter  of 
what  class  his  father.  On  the  other  hand,  the 
son  of  a  chief,  if  his  mother  were  a  person  of  no 
especial  rank,  would  be  one  of  the  masses  like 
herself.  For  state  purposes,  therefore,  great  care 
was  used  in  contracting  marriages,  and  offers 
were  frequently  made  by  women.  In  1807  three 
men  were  put  to  death  because  the  head  queen  of 
Kamehameha  the  First  (Keopuolani,  recognized 
by  all  as  the  highest  living  chief)  was  danger- 
ously ill.  She,  respecting  the  sacrifice,  recovered 
and  lived  sixteen  years,  surviving  by  four  years 
her  illustrious  lord. 

In  later  days,  too,  women  are  prominent. 
As  queen  regent  Kaahumanu  was  an  enlightened 
ruler,  a  promoter  of  education  and  good  morals. 
Living  until  1832,  her  reign,  if  it  may  be  so 
called,  was  full  of  progress  and  prosperity.  Ki- 
nau,  as  premier  in  Kaahumanu's  place,  used  her 
strong  influence  for  law  and  order.  In  1859,  that 
brilliant  king  Kamehameha  the  Fourth  and  his 
charming  wife  Queen  Emma  founded  the  hospital 
bearing  her  name,  which  still  keeps  her  in  no  less 
loving  remembrance  than  if  she  had  been  elected 
chief  ruler,  as  at  one  time  was  possible.  When 
King  Kalakaua  died,  his  sister  Liliuokalani  be- 
came queen ;  thus  once  again  a  woman  held  the 
helm  of  state. 


56  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

And  so,  onward  through  all  the  years  from  the 
brave  wives  of  early  chiefs,  generations  of  Ha- 
waiian women  are  incentive  to  every  native  girl  of 
to-day.  Always  prominent  in  island  affairs,  they 
have  now  a  better  opportunity  than  women  in 
many  other  nations  to  live  up  to  their  inherited 
traditions,  and  carry  on  a  worthy  island  story. 

The  old  native  church,  for  which  each  stone  is 
said  to  have  been  contributed  by  a  different  and 
devoted  Hawaiian,  is  quaint  and  attractive  upon 
the  exterior,  and  its  service  is  conducted  in  the 
soft  syllables  of  the  "  boneless  "  language. 

Life  in  Honolulu  harbor  had  its  own  distinctive 
interest.  Anchored  far  enough  out  to  avoid  the 
dust  and  heat  of  the  wharves,  there  was  always  a 
gentle  breeze  under  the  awning  of  the  Coronet's 
after  deck,  where  all  our  meals  on  board  were 
served.  Flowers  filled  the  saloon,  fresh  fruits 
were  unlimited,  and  our  time-bells  and  those  of 
the  U.  S.  S.  Adams,  as  well  as  of  merchant  ships 
lying  near  by,  mingled  unanimous  hours  and  half 
hours  musically  all  over  the  harbor,  as  days  and 
nights  rolled  on. 

Naval  officers  are  always  charming  hosts.  En- 
closed with  flags,  a  native  orchestra  discoursing 
sweet  and  plaintive  music  for  American  dancing, 
flowers,  summer  gowns,  cool  refreshments, —  the 
decks  of  the  Adams  were  often  the  scene  of  gay 
teas  and  receptions,  the  Coronet's  gig  and  the 


LIFE  IN  HONOLULU  57 

naval  launches  carrying  festive  parties  from  one 
to  the  other,  and  the  shore. 

Entertaining,  too,  in  its  way,  was  the  artless 
family  life  in  progress  upon  a  neighboring  big 
merchantman.  The  captain  with  his  wife  and 
three  small  children  were  very  much  at  home 
upon  their  nautical  abode ;  and  while  the  ship 
was  overhauled  for  repairs,  hammers  ringing  out 
as  the  old  paint  was  chipped  off  her  huge  sides, 
a  fresh  coat  following  closely  with  rejuvenating 
effect,  father  and  mother  played  with  the  baby, 
or  wheeled  it  up  and  down  the  deck  in  a  small 
carriage,  while  two  older  children  pirouetted  about 
in  little  sunbonnets,  —  citizens  already  of  the 
maritime  world  at  large. 

Much  of  the  Astronomer's  time  was  spent  in 
rating  the  chronometers  on  shore,  in  observation 
of  transits  by  night,  and  in  farther  tests  of  the 
new  glycerine  clock  in  the  Surveyor  General's 
office  by  day. 

But  in  spite 

"  Of  hours  that  glide  unfelt  away 
Beneath  the  sky  of  May," 

and  the  delightful  simplicity  of  life  in  Honolulu, 
we  were  not  oblivious  to  the  complex  problems 
abounding  in  the  island.  Native  customs  are 
slowly  but  surely  dying  out,  and  an  Americanized 
future  is  now  inevitable, — more  useful  if  less 
picturesque. 


CHAPTER  VII 

HAWAIIAN     VOLCANOES 

The  reticent  volcano  keeps 

His  never-slumbering  plan ; 
Confided  are  his  projects  pink 

To  no  precarious  man. 
Admonished  by  his  buckled  lips 

Let  every  babbler  be ; 
The  only  secret  people  keep 

Is  Immortality. 

EMILY  DICKINSON. 

REMOTENESS  of  the  Hawaiian  islands  from  one 
another  is  hardly  appreciated  by  those  who  have 
never  visited  our  new  possession.  Honolulu  and 
the  island  group  are  synonymous  to  most  per- 
sons. Usual  maps,  too,  give  suggestion  that 
channels  at  most  separate  the  islands,  which  may 
lie  an  hour  or  two's  sail  apart.  Local  steamers, 
however,  require  two  days  and  a  night  for  the  trip 
from  Honolulu  southward  to  ports  on  Hawaii,  the 
largest  island. 

On  the  twenty -first  of  April,  Mauna  Loa, 
I3>7OO  feet  high,  had  begun  to  show  lurid  red 
above  its  topmost  crater  (Mokuaweoweo),  beto- 
kening one  of  its  infrequent  eruptions.  From  a 
hundred  miles  away  at  sea  enormous  pillars  of 


HAWAIIAN   VOLCANOES  59 

red  flame  could  be  seen  streaming  upward.  Dur- 
ing nearly  three  weeks  a  magnificent  spectacle 
had  continued,  and  the  island  papers  were  filled 
with  details  of  the  new  activity. 

But  the  projects  pink  of  this  particular  vol- 
cano, no  less  than  of  its  generic  brotherhood, 
were  concealed  from  every  precarious  man ; 
and  no  one  dared  to  foretell  Mauna  Loa's  never- 
slumbering  plan.  Its  reticence  was  complete. 
Though  the  fires  were  evidently  growing  less, 
such  an  opportunity  must  not  be  missed.  Hono- 
lulu fascinations  were  hard  to  leave ;  still,  the 
inter-island  steamer  Hall  at  its  next  departure 
had  several  members  of  the  expedition  on  board, 
as  well  as  a  number  of  friends  from  the  city  who 
joined  us  for  the  week's  trip.  The  Coronet  would 
repose  peacefully  at  anchor  during  this  side  ex- 
cursion, with  those  on  board  whom  urgent  expe- 
dition business  aided  in  resisting  the  volcano. 

A  few  residents  of  the  city,  and  a  German,  Dr. 
Friedlander,1  had  already  made  the  ascent ;  but 
such  hardships  are  encountered  that  few  persons 
attempt  it.  Mr.  Dodge  of  the  Government  Sur- 
vey had  been  one  of  a  party  to  reach  the  summit, 
and  his  description  was  a  truly  thrilling  tale.  He 
told  us  that  the  cold  was  intense,  ice  filling  gaps 
and  chasms  over  which  they  climbed,  a  heavy 

1  "  Kilauea,"  by  Dr.  Benedict  Friedlander,  Himmel  und  Erde, 
vol.  viii.  p.  105,  December,  1895. 


60  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

snowstorm  was  in  progress,  and  mountain-sick- 
ness attacked  many  of  the  adventurers.  Horses, 
too,  suffered  greatly,  —  one  dying  in  the  rough 
upward  scramble  over  masses  of  pahoehoe  and 
sharp  aa  (lava). 

The  Wilkes  scientific  expedition  round  the 
world  in  1844  had  made  the  ascent,  and  their 
trail,  still  dimly  defined,  had  been  found  by  Mr. 
Dodge  and  his  party  at  about  n,ooofeet  eleva- 
tion. They  remained  over  night  upon  the  edge 
of  the  crater,  whose  walls  vary  from  500  to  70x3 
feet  in  height,  while  the  lake  of  liquid  fire  was 
not  less  than  1600  feet  in  length  with  a  width 
perhaps  two  thirds  as  great. 

From  this  appalling  expanse  two  huge  foun- 
tains of  flame  a  few  furlongs  apart  were  seen  to 
spout  upward  thousands  of  tons  of  lava,  brilliantly 
lighting  the  whole  crater,  and  the  heavens  above. 
Their  average  height  was  about  250  feet ;  but 
frequently  spurts  or  fiery  jets  would  fling  red- 
hot  bombs  to  a  much  greater  elevation,  while 
the  boom  and  roar  of  this  whole  inconceivable 
outburst  filled  every  pause  in  the  wild  wind. 
Smaller  columns  constantly  leaped  forth  in  dif- 
ferent spots,  occasional  whirlwinds  carrying  pillars 
of  smoke  hundreds  of  feet  above  the  walls,  and 
lifting  great  slabs  of  hardening  lava  only  to  cast 
them  off  again.  The  edge  of  creeping  lava,  bril- 
liantly red,  lapped  a  margin  of  white  snow. 


HAWAIIAN  VOLCANOES  61 

Spray  from  these  upspringing  fountains  of 
flame  made  graceful  curves  as  they  descended  in 
sparkling  showers,  while  at  their  bases  a  crimson 
sea  seethed  and  boiled  like  angry  surf  upon  the 
shores  of  Hades.  Descriptions  of  the  activity  of 
these  fountains  perhaps  suggested  in  small  mea- 
sure the  terrific  happenings  at  the  surface  of  the 
sun. 

What  climb  could  be  too  arduous  for  a  view  of 
such  scenes  ! 

As  the  Hall  left  her  Honolulu  moorings,  the 
wharf  presented  a  characteristic  sight.  Native 
men  in  picturesque  hats  trimmed  with  bands  of 
peacock  feathers,  women  in  the  universal  holoku, 
boys  in  no  particular  costume  to  speak  of,  and 
everybody  draped  in  wreaths  of  flowers,  filled  all 
available  space  with  an  amiable  crowd.  Little 
two-wheeled  vehicles  waited  in  the  background, 
full  of  pretty  children  and  young  girls  in  white ; 
close  by,  handsome  brown  boys  dived  in  the  clear 
green  water  for  dimes  and  quarters  thrown  from 
the  steamer.  Flowers  were  everywhere,  tropical 
sunshine  and  good-humored  faces.  Slowly  reced- 
ing from  the  wharf,  the  Hall  passed  the  Coronet 
at  her  anchorage,  acknowledged  her  parting  sa- 
lute, and  turned  south  toward  the  incomparable 
volcano.1 

1  "  To  no  other  volcano  can  Mauna  Loa  be  compared  in  its 
vast  mass,  or  the  magnitude  of  its  eruptive  activity."  —  Captain 
C.  E.  BUTTON,  U.  S.  Army. 


62  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Slight  roughness  in  currents  of  the  inter-island 
ocean  caused  the  passengers,  regardless  of  na- 
tionality, to  subside  unanimously.  The  south- 
ern shores  of  Molokai  are  more  nearly  level  than 
its  rugged  northern  coast.  Lanai  was  passed. 
But  no  interest  in  topographic  features  sufficed 
to  stir  the  occupants  of  the  forward  deck,  Chi- 
nese and  Japanese,  Portuguese  and  Kanakas,  in 
every  imaginable  half-breed  combination,  —  all 
lying  with  their  luggage  around  them,  in  pictur- 
esque confusion.  Small  Japanese  babies  with 
shaved  heads  and  fringe  of  hair  and  Chinese  in- 
fants with  tiny  queues  diversified  the  scene,  but 
made  no  sound.  So  thickly  was  the  deck  covered 
with  various  reposing  nationalities,  all  in  their 
native  attitudes,  that  stepping  room  was  out  of 
the  question.  It  was  a  motley  array.  The  cap- 
tain was  a  handsome,  swarthy  islander,  the 
stewards  light-footed  Japanese. 

The  level  light  of  sunset  turned  the  whole 
great  slope  of  Maui  brilliant  red ;  deep  shadows 
were  thrown  into  enormous  gorges ;  occasional 
patches  of  brilliant  green  sugar-cane  appeared, 
the  tropical  effect  emphasized  by  tall  cocoanut 
palms  near  the  shore.  Moist,  filmy  clouds  hung 
about  the  mountain  peaks,  now  and  then  drifting 
off  aimlessly.  Many  natives,  draped  in  leis,  were 
leaving  the  Hall  at  the  little  town  of  Lahaina, 
and  through  the  purser's  politeness  we  took  a 
closer  view  of  an  unfamiliar  hamlet. 


HAWAIIAN  VOLCANOES  63 

Crowds  filled  the  landing-place,  sandy  streets 
were  bordered  by  banyan  and  cocoanut  trees, 
and  a  pond  hid  itself  beneath  the  crimson  flow- 
ers of  some  greenly  spreading  water-plant.  Boys 
walked  calmly  up  the  straight,  columnar  trunks 
of  trees,  bringing  back  cocoanuts  as  spoil ;  women 
and  children  played  in  the  sand.  Along  the 
beach  lay  waa,  curious  native  canoes  with  ex- 
tended outriggers  ;  and  surf  beat  high  on  lava 
reefs  outside. 

The  evening  was  warm,  the  breeze  soft,  and 
her  deck  a  charmed  spot  as  the  Hall  steamed 
away  in  early  twilight. 

Kailua,  a  place  of  much  historic  interest,  was 
passed  at  dawn,  too  early  for  landing.  Miss 
Field  was  reported  as  still  pursuing  there  her 
studies  into  the  condition  of  natives. 

About  noon  of  the  second  day,  Kealakeakua 
Bay  was  approached,  and  the  monument  at  the 
village,  Kaawaloa,  in  honor  of  Captain  Cook, 
surrounded  by  a  fence  of  chains  and  ancient  can- 
non. The  discovery  of  these  islands  by  the 
famous  navigator  was  the  turning-point  in  their 
history,  ushering  in  a  new  era  of  prosperity.  He 
first  visited  them  in  1778,  his  second  visit  being 
in  the  autumn  of  the  same  yean  In  January  of 
1779  he  anchored  in  this  bay,  where  nearly  a 
century  and  a  quarter  later  an  eclipse  expedition 
tarried  on  its  way  to  the  Orient. 


64  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

Cliffs  nearly  five  hundred  feet  high  rise  straight 
up  from  the  sea,  and  around  the  bay,  with  water 
as  clear  and  green  as  an  emerald,  nestles  the  little 
town.  The  site  of  an  astronomical  observatory 
established  by  Captain  Cook  near  by  was  not 
seen,  but  it  was  a  thought  full  of  interest  that 
instruments  had  been  so  early  set  up  and  obser- 
vations made  in  this  far-away  harbor  of  Hawaii. 

The  murder  of  this  sturdy  explorer,  I4th 
February,  1779,  so  affected  the  world  at  large 
that  no  foreign  vessels  attempted  to  anchor  there 
for  over  seven  years.  Land  for  the  monument, 
erected  in  the  name  of  his  countrymen,  by  Lord 
Byron,  commander  of  the  frigate  Blonde,  was 
given  by  the  Princess  Likelike  (Mrs.  Cleghorn, 
sister  of  Queen  Liliuokalani). 

Telephone  service  is  nearly  perfect,  and  one 
may  speak  from  any  of  these  little  native  towns 
to  all  others  on  the  same  island.  Everywhere 
we  eagerly  asked  for  news  from  Mauna  Loa. 
Each  reply  was  more  discouraging  than  the  last, 
—  its  fires  were  no  longer  visible ;  but  ever  hope- 
ful we  voyaged  onward. 

All  along  the  Hawaiian  shore  lie  occasional 
villages ;  here  and  there  a  freshly  made  cave  in 
the  cliffs  showed  a  late  burial-place  of  some  na- 
tive. In  earlier  years  a  popular  custom,  this 
method  of  interment  is  now  infrequently  prac- 
ticed. Innumerable  natural  caves  indent  the 


HAWAIIAN   VOLCANOES  65 

rocky  coast,  against  which  deeply  blue  water 
beats  itself  into  tremendous  walls  of  white,  the 
spray  flying  high  and  startling  the  air  with  a  re- 
sounding boom. 

This  southwestern  coast  of  Hawaii  is  barren 
but  impressive.  Apparently  one  huge  lava  flow, 
it  is  only  in  spots  overgrown  by  verdure.  Black 
death  and  green  life  lie  side  by  side.  These 
oases  hold  a  few  grass  huts,  and  half  a  dozen 
straggling  cocoanuts,  while  far  above  lies  the 
great  mountain,  its  top  lost  in  drifting  cloud. 
With  a  base  so  enormous,  and  slope  so  gradual 
that  its  true  proportions  are  difficult  to  conceive, 
Mauna  Loa  gives  almost  the  impression  of  being 
flat  on  top.  Around  Hawaii  the  sea  is  very 
deep,  and  if  its  mountains  were  referred  to  their 
true  bases  at  ocean's  bottom,  where  the  range 
really  rises,  they  would  be  no  less  than  thirty  thou- 
sand feet,  or  nearly  six  miles  in  vertical  height. 

The  national  vegetable  is  poi.  I  had  tasted 
this  article  prepared  in  several  ways,  always  with 
a  new  sensation  but  without  marked  satisfaction. 
Noticing  upon  the  Hall  an  old  friend  and  resi- 
dent of  Honolulu,  engaged  in  drinking  from  a 
glass  something  evidently  cold  and  possibly  good, 
I  boldly  ordered  a  similar  beverage,  only  to  find 
it  gray  and  elastic,  and  alarmingly  acid  in  flavor. 

I  had  eaten  black  bread  in  Germany  with 
nameless  accessories,  raw  fish  in  Japan,  unclassi- 


66  CORONA   AND    CORONET 

fied  crustaceans,  and  shoots  of  bamboo,  and  na- 
tional dishes  in  various  other  regions  of  the 
earth's  surface.  But  liquid  poi  is  a  discourag- 
ing delicacy  which  outranks  them  all ;  and  a  sin- 
gle draught  required  all  the  cosmopolitanism  I 
could  summon  to  refrain  from  unseemly  demon- 
stration. The  scenery  again  resumed  its  greater 
charm,  with  one  fleeting  glimpse  of  Mauna  Kea, 
high  in  the  sky. 

Toward  evening  the  Hall  anchored  off  Punaluu, 
two  hundred  and  seventy  miles  from  Honolulu, 
where  landing  appeared  an  uncertain  perform- 
ance, through  pounding  surf,  still  encircling  the 
coast  in  walls  of  swaying  whiteness.  About  nine 
o'clock  two  small  boats  shot  through  from  the 
little  town,  to  bring  our  company  ashore.  They 
were  propelled  by  natives  ready  to  dash  back 
with  us  into  lines  of  breakers  at  the  most  favor- 
able instant. 

Great  rollers  chased  us  madly,  raised  the 
boats  like  egg-shells  in  a  wild  rush  forward,  then 
broke  over  the  lava  reefs  with  resounding  din 
on  either  side,  now  and  then  enveloping  us  in 
heavy  showers.  Still  the  native  oarsmen  kept 
peacefully  onward,  guiding  their  craft  with  much 
skill  through  the  narrow  passage  among  rocks, 
taking  each  sea  just  right  until  both  boats  were 
brought  up  safely  beside  a  little  wharf  in  partial 
shelter  of  a  small  bay,  where  one  assisted  jump 


HAWAIIAN  VOLCANOES  67 

landed  the  voyagers  among  a  variegated  crowd 
watching  our  arrival  with  interest.  It  was  called 
an  unusually  calm  landing  for  that  port. 

Punaluu  society  seemed  to  be  in  a  state  of 
primitive  simplicity.  After  walking  up  to  the 
little  hotel  through  a  path  between  lily-ponds 
bordered  by  rushes,  no  proprietor  was  apparent. 
Everything  was  open,  all  on  one  floor,  doors  and 
windows  hospitably  wide,  beds  carefully  made, 
and  not  a  soul  in  sight.  So  we  took  possession, 
and  after  a  time  an  excellent  Chinaman  appeared 
who  officially  turned  the  house  over  to  the  guests 
and  their  peaceful  slumbers. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

A    HAWAIIAN   JOURNEY 

According  to  her  cloth  she  cut  her  coat. 

DRYDEN,  The  Cock  and  the  Fox. 

AH  HE  provided  a  delicious  breakfast ;  during 
intervals  of  dreams  we  had  heard  him  chasing 
fowls  of  different  species  far  into  the  night,  and 
the  merry  company  remained  unsubdued  despite 
heavy  clouds  enshrouding  Mauna  Loa,  and  occa- 
sional sprinkles.  But  impending  disappointment 
as  to  the  great  eruption  became  sad  certainty. 
The  fierce  fires  had  wholly  withdrawn  into  deep- 
est mountain  recesses  ;  not  a  tint  of  red  remained 
to  suggest  the  unconquerable  energy  which  for 
nearly  three  weeks  had  flashed  forth  in  sublimity. 
The  climb,  therefore,  to  Mokuaweoweo,  nearly 
fourteen  thousand  feet  in  air,  was  reluctantly 
abandoned,  since  the  grand  spectacle  had  seethed 
itself  into  rest,  and  nothing  except  a  dark  crater 
would  reward  the  ascent,  views  of  distant  islands 
and  ocean  being  almost  constantly  cut  off  by 
clouds  and  mist.  Kilauea,  less  than  one  third 
as  high,  but  always  interesting,  and  evidently  pre- 
paring for  an  eruption  of  its  own,  became  our 
volcanic  Mecca. 


A   HAWAIIAN  JOUKNEY  69 

Something,  called  by  courtesy  a  train,  inaug- 
urated the  first  stage  of  the  trip.  The  track, 
supposedly  about  two  feet  wide,  varied  pleasantly 
in  breadth,  sometimes  more,  sometimes  less,  each 
rail  wandering  goalward  at  its  own  sweet  will. 
An  amusing  toy  engine,  old  and  rusty,  with  a 
shrill  shriek  to  correspond,  drew  one  small  plat- 
form on  wheels  where  the  satchels  of  the  com- 
pany reposed  under  a  canvas  cover ;  a  second, 
with  benches  for  the  men,  and  a  third,  boasting 
an  awning  under  which  the  ladies  were,  invited  to 
ride  in  magnificence. 

Across  a  volcanic  country  staggered  this  estab- 
lishment, in  amazing  curves,  brushing  past  cattle 
grazing  on  scanty  grass  among  the  lava.  Every- 
where superb  white  poppies  and  a  scarlet  flower 
like  salvia  bloomed  lavishly.  Over  deep  gul- 
lies, in  the  rainy  season  grotesque  lava  beds  for 
rushing  streams,  around  hills,  skirting  miniature 
valleys,  the  little  railroad  pursued  its  uncertain 
way  to  Pahala  Plantation. 

Here  the  sugar-making  process  was  watched  — 
from  cutting  the  cane  on  four  thousand  acres  of 
land,  to  the  completed  crystals,  not  sufficiently 
refined  to  prevent  free  importation  at  San  Fran- 
cisco. 

Horses  and  a  rickety  stage  were  soon  in  readi- 
ness. Several  ladies  rode  in  divided  skirts,  after 
the  sensible  island  fashion. 


70  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

A  desolate  country,  indeed,  this  leeward  side 
of  Hawaii,  covered  with  lava  hardened  into  weird 
shapes  like  nearly  stagnant  waves,  too  lazy  to 
flow,  but  which,  just  as  they  were  curving  for 
another  lap,  stiffened  into  crawling  circles,  or 
heaped  in  chaotic  masses.  Brilliant  yellow  and 
scarlet  milkweed  blossomed  along  the  way,  stand- 
ing decoratively  against  black  lava  backgrounds, 
while  armies  of  brown  butterflies  which  might 
have  recently  escaped  from  some  New  England 
meadow,  hovered  near,  perfectly  at  home  in  these 
foreign  uplands. 

Pele,  goddess  of  fire,  seems  appropriately  fond 
of  red,  for  red  flowers,  red  leaves,  red  berries,  and 
red  birds  abound  on  the  slope  toward  her  citadel. 
But  she  is  a  jealous  divinity,  and  no  flower  or 
berry  must  be  picked  on  the  slopes  of  Kilauea, 
for  that  would  imply  admiration  of  them.  And 
all  homage  must  first  be  paid  herself  —  else 
she  will  send  rain  or  other  damper  to  pilgrim 
enthusiasm. 

A  native  woman,  Kapiolani,  having  decided  in 
favor  of  Christianity,  journeyed  to  Kilauea  in 
1824,  purposely  to  set  Pele  at  defiance.  Upon 
the  very  edge  of  the  crater  this  brave  woman, 
trembling  at  heart,  we  must  suppose,  if  only  from 
hereditary  dread,  performed  various  acts  designed 
to  excite  wrath  in  the  fiery  goddess,  whose  power 
for  centuries  had  been  thought  absolute.  Yet  no 


A   HAWAIIAN  JOURNEY  71 

fatality  followed  these  impious  performances,  the 
truly  heroic  attempt  justifying  itself.  But  super- 
stition is  hard  to  dislodge,  and  to  this  day  few 
natives  would  willingly  pluck  anything  on  the 
way  to  the  crater.  Pele's  particular  flower,  the 
okia,  grows  on  large  trees,  a  magnificent  fringe  of 
scarlet  like  flame,  apparently  the  long,  clustered 
stamens  of  a  tiny,  whitish  corolla. 

After  the  charmingly  hospitable  manner  of 
islanders,  we  were  entertained  at  luncheon  at 
Kapapala  Ranch,  a  garden  of  beauty  midst  great 
barrenness  ;  and  here  another  vivid  account  of 
the  great  eruption  was  given.  From  the  depths 
of  a  h^eavy  snowstorm  a  benumbed  and  half- 
fainting  company  had  watched  through  the  night 
the  gigantic  spectacle,  listening  to  the  never 
ceasing  roar  of  flames  and  internal  seething  of 
this  indescribable  cauldron.  Though  that  was 
but  a  few  days  before,  when  ships  at  sea  could 
view  the  pillar  of  fire  on  Mauna  Loa's  crest  for 
one  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  now  it  was  all  out 
and  gone  —  not  a  breath  more  of  this  terrific 
energy,  and  only  a  calm  summit  reposing  peace- 
fully above,  innocently  laying  its  huge  crest 
against  the  sky,  even  in  its  great  height  like  any 
New  England  hill. 

After  luncheon  riders  and  stage  traversed 
the  short  grass,  still  upward,  a  telephone  wire 
the  sole  suggestion  of  direction,  or  an  occasional 


72  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

intermittent  line  of  lava  wall.  In  the  native 
language  going  toward  the  mountains  is  called 
mauka ;  to  the  sea,  or  anywhere  away  from 
the  heights,  makai.  Sometimes  a  few  lichens 
half  concealed  the  rock  they  decorated;  or  a 
vine  full  of  blue  morning  glories  climbed  high 
on  rugged  masses,  and  a  few  ferns  grew  here 
and  there.  The  brilliant  milkweed  went  to 
seed  at  will,  —  showing,  in  friendly  association 
with  buds  and  blossoms,  a  silvery  puff  ready 
to  float  on  the  first  inviting  breeze.  Running 
about  among  the  rough  masses  were  tiny  quail, 
and  a  large  rock  had  a  round  hole  in  its  side, 
through  which  a  fern  seemed  to  have  pushed 
itself,  turning  skyward,  and  unrolling  its  little 
green  knapsack  in  fitful  sunshine.  Behind,  the 
blue  sea  tumbled  in  white  surf  on  a  jet-black 
beach  of  volcanic  sand ;  before,  the  lava-covered 
heights  we  toiled  to  reach. 

After  the  Half-way  House,  kept  by  an  odd 
character  with  amusing  conversational  powers,  a 
few  more  ragged  and  scrawny  trees  appeared, 
but  this  side  of  the  island  is  undeniably  desolate. 

The  great  lava  flow  of  1868  came  down  the 
southwestern  slope ;  we  had  passed  it,  now  a 
black  and  cold  devastation,  in  the  Hall  at  the 
little  town  of  Kahuku.  That  eruption,  begin- 
ning in  the  summit  crater,  was  accompanied  by 
all  sorts  of  convulsions.  Earthquakes  shook 


A  HAWAIIAN  JOURNEY  73 

houses  quite  off  their  foundations,  breaking  vases 
and  china  indiscriminately ;  so  that  now  dining- 
room  closets  in  this  uneasy  region  are  fitted  with 
little  guards  in  front  of  every  shelf  —  like  a 
ship's  galley.  A  "  mud-flow "  swept  downward 
a  league's  distance  in  a  few  minutes,  not  less 
than  half  a  mile  wide  and  thirty  feet  deep.  So 
rapid  was  its  engulfing  rush  that  thirty  or  forty 
persons  were  overwhelmed,  and  hundreds  of  ani- 
mals perished.  A  tidal  wave,  too,  toward  fifty 
feet  high,  rolled  against  the  coast,  killing  nearly 
a  hundred  persons,  destroying  villages,  and  per- 
manently submerging  the  road  at  Punaluu,  where 
landing  is  now  effected. 

Another  great  lava  stream  broke  forth  late  in 
1880,  and  flowed  down  the  eastern  slope  for  many 
months.  Sometimes  a  mile  and  a  half  in  width, 
it  slowly  but  steadily  approached  the  town  of 
Hilo,  causing  much  depression  in  dwellers  there, 
and  in  the  price  of  real  estate.  The  speed  of 
these  streams  of  pahoehoe  is  so  moderate  that 
time  is  sufficient  to  remove  livestock  and  port- 
able treasures  from  its  path.  But  one  may  not 
transport  his  sugar  plantation,  nor  his  house  and 
gardens  ;  and  property  continued  to  depreciate, 
as  this  slow,  deliberate,  relentless  stream  came 
nearer  and  nearer.  In  the  general  panic  lands 
of  ancestral  memory  were  abandoned  for  a  song. 
When  within  three  quarters  of  a  mile  of  the 


74  CORONA  AND  CORONET 

town,  and  destruction  seemed  only  a  matter  of 
days,  then  it  was  that  trust  in  ancient  super- 
stitions once  more  prevailed,  and  the  Princess 
Ruth,  a  member  of  the  old  royal  Kamehameha 
family,  went  out  with  a  company  of  friends  to 
appease  if  possible  the  wrath  of  Pele.  Bottles 
of  brandy  and  gin,  pigs,  chickens,  silk  handker- 
chiefs, and  locks  of  hair  were  thrown  into  the 
sluggish  stream  with  appropriate  ceremonies. 

It  must  have  been  a  weird  scene,  as  described 
to  me  by  an  eye-witness,  a  participator  in  the 
evening's  events ;  and  the  party  returned  to 
town,  confident  in  the  success  of  their  diplomatic 
mission.  Singularly  enough  the  flow  stopped 
next  day,  dividing  itself  and  dying  out  harmlessly. 
But  the  real  estate  could  not  be  bought  back  by 
its  former  owners.  Neither  gratitude,  nor  terror 
of  Pele,  sufficed  for  that. 

Late  in  1886  hundreds  of  earthquake  shocks 
were  felt,  and  soon  after  New  Year's  an  erup- 
tion occurred  at  the  summit  crater  of  Mauna 
Loa,  accompanied  by  a  lava  stream  following  in 
general  the  great  flow  of  1868.  The  death  of 
Princess  Likelike,  sister  of  King  Kalakaua  and 
Liliuokalani,  occurring  about  the  time  this  flow 
ceased,  gave  abundant  reason  to  many  natives 
for  its  ending,  a  certain  propitiatory  offering  thus 
implied.  In  December,  1892,  Mokuaweoweo 
was  again  brilliantly  active  for  three  days ;  but 


A   HAWAIIAN  JOURNEY  75 

the  frequent  minor  eruptions  are  subordinate  to 
the  two  disasters  most  frequently  quoted  —  in 
1868  and  1881. 

As  the  old  stage  rattled  on,  the  advance  riders 
quite  out  of  sight,  a  damp  mistiness  hung  over 
the  landscape.  Pele's  scarlet  flowers  glowed  in 
the  dull  day  like  veritable  bits  of  her  own  flame, 
and  native  stories,  legends,  and  myths  beguiled 
the  rough  and  ever  upward  way.  Curious  blow- 
holes abound,  where  bubbles  of  lava  once  burst, 
leaving  deep  caves  and  pits.  In  one  of  these 
tradition  says  Pele  once  came  in  search  of  a 
pleasant  home.  She  was  accompanied  by  sixteen 
hula  (dancing)  girls,  who  thoughtlessly  picked 
the  delicate  fringed  blossoms  of  the  ohiat  and 
otherwise  showed  carelessness  of  her  peculiari- 
ties ;  so  that  returning  one  day  to  the  cave  after 
an  excursion  about  the  mountain,  she  suddenly 
turned  them  all  into  pillars  of  pakoehoe,  while  a 
central  one  of  aa  is  commonly  reported  to  repre- 
sent herself,  the  only  bit  of  that  formation  in  this 
vicinity.  Even  now  no  native  can  be  persuaded 
to  enter  that  cave  without  an  offering,  if  only  a 
lei  for  Pele. 

Stories  relating  to  fissures,  caves,  or  lava- 
blocks  were  told  on  the  way,  unfailingly  pictur- 
esque, and  showing  a  strong  bent  of  the  native 
mind.  "Henry  Gandell's  Leap"  is  a  wide  crack 
on  the  slope  of  Mauna  Loa,  which  a  man  riding 


76  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

in  hot  haste  down  the  mountain-side  saw  too  late 
to  avoid.  Spurring  ahead,  he  took  the  flying 
leap,  and  landed  safely  on  the  farther  side ;  but 
the  strain  caused  his  ultimate  death  a  year  later, 
though  the  horse  was  reported  as  still  alive.  Be- 
lief in  kahimas  (witch  doctors)  has  by  no  means 
died  out ;  and  a  prophet  named  Lukula  foretold 
that  a  corpse  (kupapa-ii)  would  arrive  from  over 
sea,  bringing  death  and  desolation ;  that  a  great 
eruption  would  then  occur,  to  be  followed 'by  a 
royal  restoration.  Cholera  came  and  Mauna  Loa 
broke  forth,  but  restoration  remains  unverified. 
Toward  evening  a  cloud  of  white  vapor  indicated 
the  nearness  of  Kilauea ;  and  steam  bursting 
out  of  holes  and  cracks  in  the  ground  all  about, 
very  hot  and  fringed  with  exquisite  sulphur  crys- 
tals, formed  the  suggestive  approach  to  Volcano 
House.  Perched  high  on  one  wall  of  the  enor- 
mous crater,  this  hotel  commands  the  entire  scene 
of  desolate  grandeur.  A  lake  of  black  lava,  three 
and  one  half  miles  in  one  direction  by  one  and 
one  half  in  the  other,  is  surrounded  by  nearly 
perpendicular  walls  varying  from  seven  hundred 
and  fifty  to  three  hundred  feet  high,  at  one  end 
of  which  a  secondary  crater  sends  out  volumes 
of  sulphurous  fumes.  Mauna  Loa  rises  grandly 
toward  the  west,  and  in  the  north  Mauna  Kea 
raises  a  rugged  peak  yet  higher. 

Fortunately  without  other  guests  the  Volcano 


A   HAWAIIAN  JOURNEY  77 

House  hospitably  offered  ample  quarters,  most  at- 
tractive of  all  a  long  billiard-room,  dark  raftered 
overhead,  with  huge  stone  fireplace  decorated  by 
lurid  scenes  of  volcanic  activity.  A  friendly 
house-party  took  immediate  possession,  and  many 
and  startling  were  the  stories  told  round  the  blaz- 
ing fire  ;  for  evening  air  at  high  altitudes  is  cool, 
and  in  Pele's  very  sanctuary  any  tale  is  credible. 


CHAPTER  IX 

» 

KILAUEA 

After  emptions  are  over, 

After  the  mountain  is  dumb, 
After  the  fire  has  vanished, 

Up  to  the  crater  we  come ; 
Wander  on  black  lakes  of  lava, 

See  the  white  steam  rising  higher, 
Gaze  at  the  calm  crest  of  Mauna  — 
After  the  fire. 

EARLY  dawn  revealed  a  weird  scene.  Steam 
issued  all  about  the  house  from  countless  fissures. 
Below,  the  enormous  lava  lake  stretched  grim  and 
motionless,  partly  hidden  by  mist.  Over  it  fell 
showers  at  intervals,  while  the  hotel  stood  in  bril- 
liant sunrise  light,  and  a  superb  rainbow  arched 
the  black  pit  from  wall  to  wall  with  heavenly 
radiance.  Then  sunlight  broke  through  the  last 
shred  of  mist,  chasing  away  the  shadows,  and  it 
was  sweet,  sparkling  morning  on  Kilauea. 

Descent  into  the  crater,  on  the  sure-footed 
horses,  is  a  memorable  experience.  Back  and 
forth  the  narrow  path  winds,  down  the  wall, 
through  masses  of  ferns  and  foliage,  until  the 
great  cliff  behind  shuts  out  half  the  sky,  and  high 
in  its  thick  verdure  a  single  bird-song  came  out 


KILAUEA  79 

airily  into  the  dewy  morning.  But  the  lake  was 
unspeakable  desolation, —  black  lava  in  writhing, 
curling,  creeping  masses  as  far  as  the  eye  could 
reach,  growing  hotter  to  the  feet  as  the  steaming 
secondary  crater  was  approached,  until  a  stick 
thrust  slightly  into  a  crack  came  out  in  flames. 
Strange  contradiction  of  this  fast-dying  nineteenth 
century,  a  telephone  wire  crosses  this  Hades  of 
desolation,  and,  though  useless  now,  once  served 
to  connect  the  Volcano  House  with  a  little  build- 
ing close  to  the  active  crater.  But  in  the  pictur- 
esque native  language,  "it  was  eaten  up  by  fire ;  " 
that  is,  the  hot  lava  walls  caved  and  the  little 
house  fell  in. 

Every  tinest  crack  sends  out  heat  like  a  regis- 
ter when  the  furnace  below  is  red  hot  —  only  in 
Kilauea  one  may  not  send  down  impatiently  to 
know  why  the  check  drafts  have  been  forgotten. 
The  crater  is  a  bewildering  mass  of  tumbled  lava, 
hissing  sulphur  steam,  and  unbearable  heat.  An- 
other great  eruption  was  daily  expected. 

The  various  kinds  of  "blow-holes"  were  curi- 
ously fascinating,  with  heat  too  intense  even  to 
stand  near  in  many  cases,  yet  tempting  as  far  as 
endurable.  Anxious  as  usual  for  new  experiences, 
I  descended  a  short  distance  into  one  about 
fifteen  feet  deep,  but  speedily  returned,  nearly 
overcome  by  sulphur  fumes  and  a  temperature  of 
unimaginable  degrees  Fahrenheit. 


8o  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

"  Yes,"  said  the  General  sadly,  "  she  could  n't 
stay  as  long  as  she  hoped,  but  her  next  article 
will  be  entitled  'My  Interview  with  Satan,  or 
What  I  saw  in  the  Blow-hole.'  It  will  be  very 
exciting  and  sufficiently  authentic." 

Such  amenities  materially  mitigate  the  dreary 
grimness  of  a  slumbering  but  restless  volcano, 
and  the  active  crater's  extreme  edge  was  cheer- 
fully approached.  The  soles  of  our  boots  were 
already  too  hot  for  comfort,  and  prevailing  sul- 
phur odor  was  variegated  by  a  strong  smell  of 
burning  woolen,  as  folds  of  a  gown  rested  for  a 
second  against  an  unsuspected  crack  in  the  flaky 
and  shining  black  surface.  Thick  fumes  con- 
cealed the  pit  activities  six  hundred  feet  below, 
and  a  slight  change  in  the  wind  would  have 
brought  suffocation  in  its  train.  Above  the  whole 
surface,  even  of  cooler  portions  of  the  lake  just 
traversed,  the  heated  air  lay  in  a  quivering  mass, 
and  retreat  was  a  gradual  return  to  comfortable 
breathing.  As  the  lava  became  cooler,  away 
from  the  more  active  pit,  a  tiny  green  fern  now 
and  then  peeped  hopefully  from  an  unaccustomed 
bed ;  and  enormous  encircling  walls,  often  nearly 
perpendicular,  rose  above  with  grand  but  sullen 
effectiveness.  The  necessarily  slow  climb  to  the 
upper  world  made  a  mile  or  two  of  free  wild  gal- 
loping on  the  mountain  horses  a  subsequent  ne- 
cessity. Sulphur  fumes  were  blown  off  in  brisk 


KILAUEA  8 1 

breezes,  a  handful  of  wild  roses  was  gathered, 
and  a  soft-footed  Celestial  announced  luncheon 
just  as  we  drew  rein  under  the  tree  ferns  by  the 
hotel  entrance. 

Kilauea-iki  is  well  worth  the  short  walk  through 
unfamilar  fields,  past  strange  holes  going  down  in 
blackness  to  unknown  depths,  but  fringed  on  the 
edge  by  luxuriant  ferns.  For  a  mile  or  more  a 
footpath  winds  pleasantly  through  characteristic 
vegetation,  emerging  suddenly  at  the  brink  of  a 
huge  pit  a  mile  across,  sunk  over  seven  hundred 
feet  into  the  earth.  The  sides  of  this  enormous 
bowl,  in  places  very  steep,  are  covered  with  shrubs 
and  low  trees,  and  far  down  were  wild  goats 
peacefully  browsing  on  the  margin  of  another 
black  lake,  dead,  cold,  its  waves  stiffened  in  im- 
memorial ripples.  This  weird  spot  lies  quiet  in 
the  unmoved  calm  of  centuries,  no  eruption  hav- 
ing broken  its  repose  within  historic  time.  Four 
or  five  holes  in  the  bank,  however,  are  said  to 
have  afforded  exit  for  small  streams  of  lava  which 
as  lately  as  1844  sped  downward  in  molten  cas- 
cades, —  travesty  upon  murmuring  brooks  hasten- 
ing to  join  some  still,  green,  forest  tarn. 

It  is  a  strange  region,  full  of  uncanny  interest ; 
but  afternoon  tea  on  the  Volcano  House  veranda 
brought  familiar  modern  life  once  more  to  the 
front. 

A  stroll  to  gleaming  sulphur  caves  beyond  the 


82  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

hotel  gardens  gave  renewed  consciousness  of  the 
proximity  of  nature's  vast,  uncouth  forces,  often 
slumbering  but  never  inoperant,  and  constantly 
ready  to  burst  forth  into  sublime  activity.  The 
sparkling  yellow  sulphur  crystals  are  exquisitely 
fragile,  and  the  cracks  they  fringe,  emitting  steam 
and  smoke  from  fires  perilously  close  at  hand,  are 
too  hot  for  thorough  examination.  Trees  and 
shrubs  near  these  vents  are  incrusted  with  yel- 
lowish deposit,  making  spectral  pictures. 

The  Olaa  road  to  Hilo  traverses  another  world. 
This  little  town  is  about  thirty  miles  from  the 
Volcano  House.  The  government  road  thither  is 
hard,  perfectly  kept,  and  bordered  by  tropically 
luxuriant  vegetation.  Banks  of  tall  tree  ferns, 
shrubs  showing  both  white  blossoms  and  scarlet 
berries,  huge  creepers  (ieie)  with  long,  lance- 
shaped  leaves,  hanging  their  blossoms  high  in  air 
from  trees  by  which  they  climb,  composed  a  tan- 
gle lush  and  bewildering.  The  water-lemon  with 
decorative  leaves,  blossoms  like  a  passion  flower, 
and  oval,  purple  fruit ;  bananas,  so  sheltered  that 
their  great  leaves  are  perfect  —  not  whipped  into 
ribbons  like  those  on  windy  Bermuda;  a  large 
bush  with  drooping,  greenish  white  bells,  called 
floriponda,  made  the  whole  roadside  a  joy  to  tra- 
verse, and  without  the  haunting  pain  that  every- 
thing might  be  barbarously  cut  down  before  the 
next  visit.  • 


KILAUEA  83 

Careless  guardians  of  highways  in  the  United 
States  might  well  take  to  heart  the  practical  les- 
son from  Hawaii,  where  intelligent  as  well  as 
aesthetic  appreciation  protects  and  enhances  every 
roadside  beauty.  The  district  (aina)  about  Hilo 
is  now  used  extensively  in  cultivating  coffee ; 
and  although  the  land  costs  only  five  or  six  dol- 
lars an  acre,  five  times  that  sum  is  used  in  clear- 
ing it  for  plantations.  But  no  settler  is  allowed 
to  bring  his  fields  to  the  roadside ;  a  border  of 
natural  growth  must  be  left,  not  less  than  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide,  between  his  coffee 
plants  and  the  highway.  He  may  keep  four  hun- 
dred feet  (along  the  road)  of  open  lawn  before  his 
house.  Otherwise  no  border  growths  must  be 
cut,  and  I  hear  the  prescribed  width  is  now  in- 
creased by  one  hundred  feet. 

With  natural  loveliness  so  jealously  guarded  on 
every  hand,  I  could  but  remember  certain  drives 
in  New  England,  once  fair  and  beautiful,  now 
reduced  to  scenes  of  painful  devastation;  where 
farmers,  in  temporary  lack  of  occupation,  might 
have  been  seen  cheerfully  mowing  banks  of 
maidenhair,  chopping  down  trees,  blackberry  and 
elder  bushes,  pulling  up  clematis  by  the  roots,  and 
setting  fire  to  the  pathetic  remnants.  Here  in 
remote  Hawaii  every  tree  and  shrub,  flower  and 
vine,  is  watched  and  cared  for ;  and  a  total  dearth 
of  advertising  signs  on  rocks  and  conspicuous 
places  is  enforced  by  law. 


CORONA   AND  CORONET 


Dwellings  on  the  Hilo  road  are  simple  to  primi- 
tiveness,  but  with  unfailingly  attractive  grounds, 
often  laid  out  by  those  consummately  artistic 
landscape  gardeners,  the  Japanese.  Garden  walls 
covered  with  a  happy  riot  of  nasturtiums ;  walks 
and  steps  of  tree-fern  trunks,  brown  and  elastic ; 
wide  verandas,  even  if  the  house  might  boast  but 
a  single  room,  furnish  the  foreground  ;  while  lux- 
uriant forests,  laced  in  a  tangle  of  lusty  vines, 
approach  close  behind  the  little  ranches. 

One  tiny  house  not  over  ten  feet  square  was 
nearly  smothered  in  rankly  gorgeous  vegetation : 
roses  blooming  lavishly,  tall  begonias  in  full 
flower,  hedges  of  callas,  tree  ferns,  floriponda, 
coffee  plants,  wild  roses,  bananas,  ohia,  actual 
trees  of  coleus  —  all  thriving  in  very  wantonness 
of  summer  life,  hid  roof  and  veranda  in  clinging 
embraces.  Manifestly  belonging  to  a  coffee  plan- 
tation, a  sign  on  the  gate  announced  that  "the 
owner  does  not  wish  to  show  this  coffee,  but  any 
gentleman  desirous  to  learn,  and  not  actuated  by 
motives  of  curiosity,  can  see  it  by  application  to  " 
some  one  within. 

All  the  ranches  were  named,  in  the  soft,  inver- 
tebrate native  words.  Letter  boxes  stand  at 
gates,  wide  open  for  incoming  or  outgoing  mail. 
Nothing  is  lost. 

At  a  little  inn  halfway  to  Hilo,  where  luncheon 
was  served  in  the  open  air,  the  entire  party  were 


KILAUEA  85 

greatly  exercised,  not  to  say  profoundly  shocked, 
by  a  small  child  of  the  Portuguese  couple  in  charge. 
This  promising  youth,  eldest  of  three,  was  just 
two  years  old,  in  a  white  cambric  dress  and  big 
sunbonnet,  with  innocent  blue  eyes  and  flaxen 
hair ;  yet  that  depraved  infant  was  an  experienced 
smoker !  Holding  between  his  rosy  lips  the 
stump  of  a  cigar  abandoned  by  some  guest,  he 
sauntered  past  the  newest  comers,  puffing  vigor- 
ously at  what  remained,  occasionally  with  two 
dimpled  baby  fingers  removing  it  from  his  lips 
with  the  air  of  a  smoker  of  fifty,  while  he  blew 
uncertain  spirals  into  the  sunny  air.  The  child's 
father  seemed  to  think  it  an  unusual  accomplish- 
ment—  in  which  opinion  we  were  gladly  unani- 
mous ;  but  he  could  not  be  made  to  understand 
its  danger,  only  smiling  foolishly  at  remonstrance. 
The  pale  little  Portuguese  mother  hardly  appre- 
ciated the  Doctor's  energetic  remarks,  though  she 
finally  caused  the  cigar  to  be  taken  away,  whereat 
the  child  wept  dismally,  with  rising  anger,  and 
refused  reconciliation. 

Primeval  tropic  forests  crept  up  to  the  inn  on 
three  sides,  and  the  mynah  bird  was  ubiquitous. 
A  large  bird  with  conspicuous  white  spots  on  its 
wings,  imported  years  ago  from  Jamaica,  in  hope 
of  eliminating  certain  destructive  ground-worms, 
it  has  at  last  filled  the  islands.  Flitting  decora- 
tively  about  among  the  green  was  a  little  scarlet 


86  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

bird  called  elepaio  from  its  song ;  and  the  native 
omao,  greenish  in  hue,  sang  a  full,  liquid  note. 

On  this  side  of  the  island  it  rains  so  much  that 
two  hundred  and  thirty  inches  often  fall  in  a  year, 
so  the  owner  of  a  coffee  plantation  assured  us. 
A  greater  contrast  certainly  could  hardly  be  im- 
agined than  this  "  mad  extravagance  and  splendid 
luxury  of  nature,"  and  the  barren  coast  skirted  by 
the  Hall  in  reaching  Punaluu  —  a  landscape  of 
lava-flows. 

With  tropical  sunshine  by  day,  it  was  never- 
theless the  big  fireplace  which  attracted  us  at 
evening.  The  last  before  returning  to  Honolulu 
brought  music,  a  little  dancing,  extracts  read  from 
guest -books  full  of  odd  and  interesting  entries, 
and  a  story  or  two,  told  as  the  logs  burnt  into 
glowing  red  coals,  and  stars  came  forth  in  sudden 
clearness  from  a  misty  sky. 

Later,  the  last  vestige  of  fog  disappeared, 
Mauna  Kea's  rugged  peak  rose  in  the  distance, 
and  grand  Mauna  Loa  came  forth  unshrouded. 
Behind  his  majestic  shoulder  Jupiter  was  setting 
close  to  a  crescent  moon,  and  almost  unearthly 
stillness  lay  over  the  world.  Far  below  the  cra- 
ter was  smoking  vigorously,  and  close  at  hand 
the  ground  at  every  pore  breathed  white  steam, 
quickly  absorbed  into  a  dry  and  silent  night. 
Grass  and  ferns  were  full  of  insects  singing  or 
chirping  or  scraping  their  nocturnal  music  —  little 


KILAUEA  87 

songs  in  the  grass  which,  emphasizing  the  silence, 
might  have  seemed  in  far-away  Massachusetts, 
but  for  the  surrounding  scene,  so  foreign  to  that 
placid  land.  Yet  even  here,  on  distant  Hawaii, 

"  A  minor  nation  celebrates 
Its  unobtrusive  mass," 

and  the  same  sky  overarches  all 


CHAPTER   X 

A    POI    LUNCHEON 

Those  palates  who  .... 

Must  have  inventions  to  delight  the  taste. 

Pericles,  i.  4, 

As  rice  is  the  national  dish  of  Japan,  so  a 
certain  vegetable  concoction  already  mentioned, 
called  poi,  has  that  high  distinction  in  Hawaii. 
Prepared  in  a  variety  of  ways,  each,  to  the  aver- 
age visitor,  is  less  alluring  than  the  other. 

When  the  members  of  a  native  family  are  seen 
happily  clustered  about  a  large  central  bowl,  dip- 
ping contentedly  therefrom  with  two  fingers 
(under  some  circumstances  three)  a  viscous  sub- 
stance of  nondescript  color,  which  seems  largely 
composed  of  an  indifferent  quality  of  yeast  and 
mucilage,  one  may  be  tolerably  sure  they  are  in- 
dulging in  the  questionable  delights  of  this  deli- 
cacy. 

A  charming  invitation  to  partake  of  a  foi 
luncheon,  given  in  our  honor,  and  under  most 
delightful  circumstances,  had  been  accepted  at  a 
ranch  on  the  way  back  to  Punaluu.  Perhaps  the 
unfavorable  verdict  on  a  nation's  staple  might  be 
reversed. 


A  POI  LUNCHEON  89 

In  a  radiantly  sunny  morning  good-bys  were 
said  to  Kilauea's  height,  and  the  old  stage,  saddle 
horses  and  riders,  and  two  adventurous  pedes- 
trians started  downward,  past  dewy  wild  roses, 
accompanied  by  countless  bird-songs  under  a  sap- 
phire sky.  So  distinct  was  the  crater  floor,  seven 
hundred  feet  below,  that  its  very  lava  wrinkles 
could  be  seen ;  the  sulphur  cracks  steamed  inces- 
santly close  at  hand,  but  the  slopes  of  Mauna 
Loa  lay  clear  and  unveiled  in  early  sunshine, 
without  so  much  as  a  bit  of  hanging  cirrus  on  the 
crown  to  suggest  a  lingering  suspicion  that  his 
great  fires  might  still  be  ready  to  spring  forth  in 
renewed  splendor.  The  mighty  mountain  grew 
more  impressive  with  every  hour ;  and  a  belt  of 
cloud  halfway  up  the  peak  added  to  the  apparent 
height  of  Mauna  Kea. 

Vegetation  became  more  scarce  as  Volcano 
House  was  left  farther  behind  on  the  road  to 
Kapapala  Ranch.  Pele's  scarlet  flowers  on  their 
scrubby  trees  glowed  finely  in  the  morning  bright- 
ness, and  young  shoots  low  on  the  ground,  called 
by  the  natives  liko  lehua,  showed  all  their  top- 
most leaves  in  no  less  brilliant  masses.  Small 
blue  flowers  known  as  ioi  grew  on  tall  stalks  all 
the  rough  way,  and  songs  and  stories  varied  the 
jolting  ride. 

An  oasis  amid  volcanic  desolation,  the  Ranch 
seemed  a  charmed  spot,  even  lovelier  than  at  our 


90  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

first  visit.  Within  its  outer  gate  bright  green 
grass  and  a  few  old  trees  greeted  eyes  weary  of 
endless  acres  otpahoehoe  ;  still  farther,  the  house 
nestled  in  gardens  like  some  tropic  flower.  Fuch- 
sias hung  their  blossoms  high  above  our  heads, 
avenues  of  tall  coleus  led  into  mazy  labyrinths  of 
bloom,  and  friendly  welcomes  awaited  us  on  shady 
verandas. 

For  the  benefit  of  guests  unaccustomed  to  Ha- 
waiian ceremonies,  everything  was  done  in  a 
style  as  distinctively  native  as  might  be  consist- 
ent with  comfort.  In  an  imu  (underground  oven) 
beyond  the  garden,  young  pigs  and  chickens 
had  been  cooking  for  two  or  three  hours,  del- 
icately wrapped  in  ki  (or  ti)  leaves  against  red- 
hot  stones,  between  layers  of  vegetables  —  the 
whole  covered  with  earth.  Men,  experts  in  an 
art  now  dying  out,  were  removing  from  the  pit 
the  various  edibles  so  daintily  cooked  that  they 
hardly  held  in  shape  while  transported  to  the 
house. 

Luncheon  was  served  on  the  wide  lanai  (ve- 
randa), each  chair  being  thickly  draped  with  lets. 
Roses  were  everywhere,  an  undesirable  insect 
which  has  nearly  exterminated  Honolulu  roses  not 
then  having  reached  Hawaii.  To  be  thoroughly 
native,  the  company  should  have  had  no  chairs, 
but  it  was  not  deemed  necessary  to  submit  the 
guests  to  so  thoroughly  un-American  a  position 


A    POI  LUNCHEON  91 

• 

as  sitting  flat  upon  the  floor ;  so  that  single  detail 
was  omitted. 

The  luncheon  was  lavish,  even  without  refer- 
ence to  poi,  served  in  various  forms.  The  proper 
method  of  eating  it  with  two  fingers  from  a  bowl 
was  successfully  imitated ;  still,  though  more  pal- 
atable than  before,  one  of  the  guests  continued 
to  regard  this  vegetable  with  suspicion.  Its  color 
is  against  it,  granite  gray  not  being  an  attractive 
tint  in  articles  of  diet. 

Under  the  inspiration  of  the  feast  many  pictur- 
esque tales  of  life  in  the  old  days  were  told. 
Hours  for  state  calls  were  from  three  o'clock  in 
the  morning  until  nine  or  ten,  and  royalty  wore 
superb  capes  and  helmets  of  yellow  feathers. 
Each  bird  (the  o-o)  had  but  two  tiny  tufts  of  these 
feathers  under  its  black  wings ;  and  as  this  dec- 
oration began  to  extend  gradually  to  persons  of 
lower  rank  than  chiefs,  the  plumage  soon  became 
very  scarce.  When  the  bird  was  caught  and 
his  golden  ornaments  pulled  out,  he  was  set  free, 
without  that  slaughter  of  innocents  practiced  in 
more  civilized  lands.  As  time  went  on,  flowers 
for  personal  decoration  came  into  general  use, 
thus  probably  originating  the  graceful  custom 
now  shared  by  all  classes  of  wearing  green  or 
flowery  lets. 

Young  girls  of  high  family  attended  missionary 
schools,  being  taught  many  useful  arts  and  pre- 


92  CORONA  AND  CORONET 

cepts  ;  one  maiden  was  especially  impressed  by 
three  rules  of  conduct :  in  after  life  she  must 
neither  dance  nor  drink  wine,  nor  must  she  do 
anything  without  her  husband's  permission. 

When  this  little  Hawaiian  girl,  married  soon 
after  leaving  school,  arrived  in  Honolulu  as  the 
bride  of  a  chieftain,  the  Queen  waited  upon  her 
at  dewy  dawn  (while  the  bridegroom  paid  his  re- 
spects to  the  King),  inviting  her  to  breakfast  at 
the  palace  —  a  gracious  royal  command.  But 
true  to  training,  she  replied  that  while  it  would 
give  her  the  greatest  pleasure  to  accept,  she  could 
not  do  so  without  first  asking  her  husband  —  a 
form  of  answer  entirely  novel  in  all  the  royal  ex- 
perience. 

When  healths  were  drunk  at  state  banquets,  the 
little  bride  still  remembered  her  instructions,  and 
refrained  from  touching  her  glass,  a  surprising 
performance  to  the  king,  at  whose  side  she  sat. 
But  when  the  young  husband  finally  learned  of 
these  eccentricities,  he  speedily  reduced  the  three 
rules  to  one,  no  less  definite.  Hastening  at  the 
next  banquet  to  obey  him  when  a  health  was 
toasted,  she  innocently  drank  the  whole  contents 
of  her  glass  at  once.  The  remainder  of  that  feast 
now  lies  in  her  mind  as  but  a  confused  shadow  of 
memory. 

A  charming  little  boy  in  whose  veins  runs  the 
blood  of  many  nationalities  had  listened  all  his 


A  POI  LUNCHEON  *  93 

life  to  tales  of  past  days  told  him  by  an  old  chief ; 
he  repeated  many  of  them  after  luncheon  in  his 
sweet,  childish  voice,  the  following  one  written  as 
he  narrated  it,  in  his  own  words  :  — 

"The  son  of  King  Kamehameha  shot  a  great 
many  arrows  at  the  bread-fruit  trees,  which  took 
away  their  juice  and  spoiled  them.  So  he  had  to 
be  sent  away  to  the  island  of  Lanai,  and  there  he 
found  some  hobgoblins  who  planned  to  kill  him. 
They  asked  him  where  he  was  going  to  sleep  that 
night,  and  he  said,  'In  the  big  waves.'  So  in  the 
night  they  went  out  to  the  big  waves,  but  could 
not  find  him,  and  were  drowned. 

"  In  the  morning  the  others  asked  him  why  he 
did  not  sleep,  as  he  had  said,  in  the  big  waves ;  and 
he  replied  they  were  so  large  he  decided  to  sleep  in 
the  little  waves.  The  next  night  they  asked  him 
and  he  said,  '  In  the  big  thorns.'  So  they  went 
after  him,  and  a  good  many  were  stuck  on  the 
big  thorns  and  killed.  And  when  the  survivors 
asked  him  in  the  morning  why  he  was  not  there, 
he  said,  'The  little  thorns  were  more  comfortable.' 
Then  he  decided  they  must  be  trying  to  kill  him  ; 
so  the  next  night  he  got  the  rest  of  the  hobgob- 
lins into  a  house,  and  they  thought  it  must  be  for 
some  grand  entertainment ;  and  then  he  stuck  all 
their  eyes  together  with  breadfruit  and  burned  up 
the  house. 

"  So  after  that  he  was  safe." 


94*  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

As  the  pleasant  shadows  lengthened,  kindly 
friends  gathered  under  the  trees  at  the  gate,  send- 
ing cheery  aloha  (farewells)  far  down  the  grassy 
road,  as  the  uncertain  stage  bore  us  once  more 
to  the  outer  barren.  Surrounded  by  friends  and 
flowers,  a  deep -blue  tropical  sea,  vast  volcanic 
mountain  slopes,  and  the  soft,  sweet  atmosphere 
of  enchanted  Hawaii,  even  pot  became  poetic  in 
retrospect. 

Again  we  were  in  sight  of  the  blossoming 
white  poppies  of  Pahala,  the  rusty  little  engine 
having  waited  until  we  chose  to  arrive.  The  sea 
stretched  blue  to  the  horizon,  white  surf  still 
tumbled  grandly  on  the  black  beach ;  and  after 
Ah  He's  appetizing  supper,  another  exciting  trip 
through  the  breakers  (again,  a  so-called  "quiet" 
sea,  which  merely  did  not  wholly  capsize  the 
boats)  brought  us  on  board  the  Hall,  peacefully 
anchored  beyond  the  rush  and  roar  of  waters  and 
encircling  reefs.  All  night  our  steady  way  was 
ploughed  northward,  past  the  barren  Hawaiian 
shores  toward  our  first  landing  the  next  afternoon. 

Near  the  beach  at  Kailua  lie  the  ruins  of  a  lava 
fort,  built  by  Kuakini  long  ago  ;  and  great  Kame- 
hameha  the  First  once  lived  here  in  a  grass  hut, 
on  the  site  of  which  Kuakini  (called  by  foreigners 
Governor  Adams)  built  later  a  house  of  lava  and 
cement,  the  broken  walls  of  which  are  still  stand- 
ing. Once  a  large  native  population  filled  this 


A  POI  LUNCHEON  95 

town,  and  a  missionary  church,  whose  square 
tower  rises  near  at  hand,  is  the  first  built  on  the 
island.  A  large  house  with  double  verandas  is 
still  the  property  of  the  Queen  Dowager  Kapio- 
lani,  widow  of  Kalakaua. 

But  in  addition  to  historic  remains,  as  we  sipped 
cups  of  tea  in  the  shade  of  an  airy  lanai,  we  wit- 
nessed a  unique  sight  —  the  apparently  cruel 
native  method  of  bringing  half-tamed  cattle  on 
board  for  shipment  to  Honolulu.  Confined  in 
small  pens  or  yards  on  the  beach,  one  or  two  at 
a  time  are  first  lassoed ;  and  with  men  on  horse- 
back in  front  dragging  them  with  main  strength 
by  a  rope  attached  to  their  horns,  others  behind 
cracking  long  whips,  the  terrified  creatures  are 
driven,  galloping  madly,  into  the  surf,  and  forced 
to  swim  out  to  small  boats  waiting  beyond  the 
breakers.  Tied  to  the  edge  by  their  horns,  still  in 
the  water,  usually  eight  on  each  gunwale,  they 
are  rowed  slowly  out  to  the  steamer,  and  hoisted 
on  board  by  block  and  tackle.  Half-drowned  and 
quite  subdued  by  fear  and  pain,  they  stand  in 
long,  shivering  lines,  on  the  lower  deck ;  if  a  horn 
breaks  off  or  pulls  out,  no  matter.  They  will  be 
killed  in  a  few  days. 

Native  houses  and  straggling  vegetation,  with 
great  Hualalai  rising  over  eight  thousand  feet  in 
the  background,  afforded  characteristic  setting 
for  the  lively  scenes  on  the  beach.  Natives  in 


96  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

big,  picturesque  hats  wreathed  with  flowers  were 
riding  recklessly  back  and  forth  on  high  saddles,  a 
variety  of  animals  were  adding  their  own  voices  to 
a  composite  chorus,  —  squeaking,  crowing,  neigh- 
ing, bellowing,  squealing,  —  and  children  covered 
the  sand ;  it  was  a  gala  day.  Palms  stood  up  tall 
and  tropical  in  the  warm  air,  and  soft-lying  cloud 
began  to  drift  low  down  on  the  mountain-side. 

Great  lava-flows  and  barren  shores  on  the  home- 
ward trip  looked  more  familiar  since  we  had  pene- 
trated the  very  heart  of  a  country  strange  with 
sharp  contrasts  and  endless  charm.  And  now  we 
were  leaving  it  —  to  Hawaii's  weird  island  good- 
by;  with  its  grimness,  its  sublimity,  its  steaming 
promises  and  fiery  fulfillments,  its  tropic  beauty 
and  black  devastation,  a  long  good-by. 


CHAPTER   XI 

WITH    KATE    FIELD 

Death  is  the  crown  of  life. 

YOUNG. 

A  fiery  soul,  which,  working  out  its  way, 
Fretted  the  pigmy  body  to  decay 
And  o'er  informed  the  tenement  of  clay. 
DKYDBN. 

AT  Kaawaloa  more  cocoanut  -  palms  and  na- 
tives ;  and  a  small  boat  put  off  from  shore,  bring- 
ing Miss  Field  on  board,  weary  with  arduous 
research  into  the  condition  of  the  native  island- 
ers. Lack  of  proper  food  and  attention,  a  se- 
vere cold  contracted  through  exposure  to  varying 
temperatures  at  different  altitudes,  and  gen- 
eral fatigue  had  left  obvious  traces  on  her  pale 
face. 

"Riding  too  hard,"  the  purser  said,  after  he 
had  shown  her  to  the  stateroom  she  had  re- 
served. 

Miss  Field's  wide  acquaintance,  the  interest  in 
her  felt  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  and  constant 
questions  as  to  her  last  hours  on  earth  have 
caused  the  hope  that  as  I  was  with  her  during 
that  memorable  time,  although  an  experience  of 


CORONA   AND  CORONET 


deep  pathos  amid  prevailing  light-heartedness,  its 
narration  may  not  prove  inharmonious,  but  wel- 
come, even  if  sadly  so,  to  many  hearts. 

Comfortably  settled  in  her  berth,  Miss  Field 
asked  that  our  good  Doctor,  whose  merciful  ser- 
vice was  in  constant  demand  for  ills  more  or 
less  serious,  should  come  in  to  advise  about  her 
health.  Very  serious  after  his  few  moments' 
chat,  he  reported  that  she  would  enjoy  seeing  a 
caller.  Having  had  but  slight  acquaintance  with 
her,  I  nevertheless  accepted  her  invitation,  being 
warmly,  even  enthusiastically  greeted.  Extreme 
pallor  had  given  way  to  bright  but  feverish  color. 
To  an  unprofessional  eye  she  looked  better. 

"  Oh,"  she  exclaimed,  "  it  is  such  comfort  to 
be  on  a  boat  again,  though  I  usually  hate  a  boat ; 
but  to  be  going  somewhere  actually  again,  and  to 
see  white  people  once  more,  and  up-to-date  white 
people  at  that !  I  have  seen  natives,  natives, 
until  I  am  completely  worn  out !"  —  her  naturally 
brilliant  manner  beginning  to  reassert  itself. 

"  Talk  about  the  quiet  and  pleasures  of  the 
country,"  she  went  on.  "  It's  the  noisiest  place 
on  earth  —  chickens  cackling,  roosters  crowing, 
dogs  barking  at  all  hours  !  " 

The  natives  themselves  and  the  political  situa- 
tion she  discussed  warmly. 

"Too  much  education  of  the  masses,"  she  as- 
serted. "  The  public  school  system  is  responsi- 


WITH  KATE  FIELD  99 

ble  for  a  great  deal  of  evil,  just  as  it  is  in  Amer- 
ica." 

"  On  the  frequently  quoted  principle,"  said  her 
companion,  "  that  it  spoils  a  great  many  good 
cooks,  and  makes  a  superfluity  of  poor  teachers  ?" 

"  Exactly,"  she  answered.  "  It 's  all  a  mistake. 
But  they  are  lovely,  amiable  people.  I  've  en- 
joyed Hawaii,  but  I  am  pursued  by  Kamehame- 
ha's  fishponds.  I  can't  strike  any  settlement  on 
the  island  but  that  one  of  those  malarial  holes  is 
pointed  out  to  me. 

"  When  I  was  at  Kailua  I  did  think  they  would 
be  intelligent  enough  to  avoid  them,  but  I  had  no 
sooner  arrived  than  I  began  to  smell  malaria,  so 
I  knew  there  was  another  historic  fishpond  close 
by." 

She  had  evidently  talked  as  much  as  she 
ought,  but  as  I  rose  to  go  she  remonstrated. 

"  It 's  such  a  comfort  to  see  you,"  she  said, 
pressing  my  hand.  "I  am  only  tired  all  out. 
Riding  all  sorts  of  horses  (for  my  own  got  a  sore 
back),  and  tramping  over  their  lava  beds  and 
looking  into  the  condition  of  these  natives.  Rid- 
ing astride  is  all  right,  but  there  can  be  too  much 
of  it.  Yes,  I  am  too  tired  to  do  any  more  just 
now." 

She  lay  back  with  her  cheeks  very  pink  and 
began  to  ask  about  our  expedition  to  Japan,  in 
which  she  seemed  greatly  interested. 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


In  passing  Keauhou,  where  Kamehameha  the 
Third  was  born,  a  handsome  native  came  on 
board  to  see  Miss  Field.  There  is  no  white  fam- 
ily in  the  town,  and  the  Hawaiians  there  called 
her  Kela  wahine  naanao  (that  learned  woman). 
He  did  not  remain  long  on  board,  and  she  was 
persuaded  to  rest  quietly  for  a  while.  Toward 
evening  I  made  another  short  call,  during  which 
her  characteristically  sparkling  way  of  putting 
things  was  unusually  manifest.  As  it  grew  dark, 
a  few  native  Hawaiians  gathered  on  deck  near 
her  door,  singing  sweet  and  plaintive  melodies, 
accompanied  by  guitar  and  ukulele.  I  asked  if  it 
disturbed  her. 

"  Oh,  no,"  she  answered.  "  Music  is  Paradise 
to  me,  and  I  shall  sleep  all  the  better  for  it." 

And,  indeed,  she  did  sleep  through  the  even- 
ing, apparently  with  much  peacefulness  ;  but  the 
Doctor,  seeing  that  she  grew  worse,  stayed  all 
night  by  her  side.  About  two  o'clock  a  decided 
change  occurred,  and  early  in  the  beautiful  morn- 
ing he  told  me  that  he  had  been  fighting  for  her 
life  ever  since  she  came  on  board,  obstinate  pneu- 
monia his  antagonist.  With  little  hope,  from  the 
first,  of  conquering,  he  had  continued  to  give  her 
stimulants  on  the  chance  of  sustaining  the  slight 
strength  remaining.  He  thought  she  must  have 
had  the  disease  for  several  days,  while  still  ex- 
posed to  constant  hard  riding  and  all  tempera- 


WITH  KATE  FIELD  101 

tures.  Naturally  it  had  made  irrevocable  head- 
way. 

The  truth  was  very  hard  for  me  to  tell  her  — 
that  in  all  human  probability  she  must  die  before 
another  sunset.  Miss  Field  listened  in  almost  a 
dazed  way  at  first.  Then  she  said,  — 

"  Yes,  yes  —  give  me  time.  I  must  think  of 
so  many  things."  She  lay  back  for  a  moment  in 
strange  stupor,  while  I  quietly  waited.  At  last, 
arousing  her  gently,  — 

"  Miss  Field,  you  would  better  tell  me  the 
names  and  addresses  of  any  friends  to  whom  you 
would  like  to  have  me  write,"  I  said,  wishing 
fervently  to  aid  in  some  strong  way  the  ener- 
getic soul  still  struggling  to  keep  manifold  inter- 
ests within  a  loosening  grasp. 

"Yes,  yes,  I  must,"  she  replied,  giving  me  an 
address  in  Washington,  which  she  spelled  out 
carefully  and  accurately.  Then  she  began  to 
dictate  a  letter,  clearly  enough  at  first,  but  soon 
confused. 

"  It  will  need  a  lot  of  editing,"  she  finally  said 
wearily,  while  fragmentary  sentences  relative  to 
her  work  for  the  Chicago  "Times-Herald"  fell 
at  intervals.  The  Doctor  continued  stimulants, 
but  she  sank  more  and  more  deeply  into  uncon- 
sciousness. 

All  through  the  morning  she  aroused  a  little 
as  I  spoke,  but  it  was  evident  that  she  was  rap- 


102  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

idly  dying,  and  her  breathing  became  very  la- 
bored. As  we  passed  Maui  she  suddenly  opened 
her  eyes  and  looked  out.  The  cliffs  are  bold 
and  rugged,  and  the  mountains  very  impressive, 
with  cloud-shadows  chasing  over  them,  and  be- 
tween island  and  steamer  lay  a  bright  blue  strip 
of  white-capped  sea. 

"  Oh,  how  beautiful !  "  she  exclaimed,  and  for 
a  moment  her  eyes  brightened  clearly. 

Holding  her  hot  hand,  and  longing  unspeak- 
ably to  give  her  a  little  human  love  to  reach 
heaven  on,  I  sat  there  all  the  sunny,  sparkling 
morning.  A  few  necessary  addresses  and  bits  of 
practical  information  were  plucked  at  intervals 
out  of  the  rising  tide  of  death's  lethargy,  when 
suddenly  Miss  Field  looked  up  with  entire  nat- 
uralness. 

"  What  did  you  say  was  the  name  of  your  ex- 
pedition, and  what  are  you  going  for  ? " 

"The  Amherst  eclipse  expedition,"  I  replied, 
"and  we  go  to  Japan  to  observe  a  total  eclipse  of 
the  sun  August  Qth." 

"The  Amherst  eclipse  expedition,"  she  said 
brightly;  and  those  were  her  last  words  on 
earth. 

She  simply  slept  more  and  more  soundly  as 
her  soul  drifted  farther  out  on  unknown  waters. 
All  this  time  the  captain  of  the  Hall  had  been 
pushing  the  steamer  to  the  utmost,  to  reach 


WITH  KATE  FIELD  103 

Honolulu  if  possible  before  Miss  Field  should 
die. 

As  we  neared  the  harbor  all  her  scattered  be- 
longings were  put  together,  —  saddle,  whip,  walk- 
ing-shoes all  scratched  and  scarred  with  rough 
lava  —  even  her  possessions  looked  tired  and 
helpless,  lonely  and  discouraged.  We  landed 
much  ahead  of  usual  time. 

Soon  after  the  Hall  came  alongside  the  wharf, 
a  stretcher  was  brought  from  the  Adams,  upon 
which  Miss  Field  was  tenderly  carried  to  the  resi- 
dence of  Dr.  McGrew,  a  friend  who  had  been 
very  kind  during  her  entire  stay  in  the  city.  In 
a  beautiful  open  cottage  under  the  palms  in  his 
grounds,  she  peacefully  stopped  breathing  a  few 
minutes  later  —  a  sad  home  coming  for  us  to 
our  fair  Coronet. 

Next  day  a  large  and  appreciative  company 
gathered  in  the  Central  Union  Church,  to  say 
good-by  to  the  earthly  presence  of  this  bright 
woman  who  had  yielded  her  life  pathetically  in 
behalf  of  a  strange  people.  As  the  casket,  heaped 
with  tropical  flowers,  was  carried  out,  the  organ 
softly  played  "  Home,  Sweet  Home,"  and  thought 
of  her  real  home,  after  years  of  brave  and  unremit- 
ting effort,  brought  unaccustomed  tears.  Miss 
Field  had  never  acknowledged  herself  defeated, 
and  who  shall  call  this  unfinished  work  and  lonely 
death  defeat  —  in  face  of  an  illimitable  future  ? 


CHAPTER  XII 

A   MID -PACIFIC    COLLEGE 

Tutor'd  in  the  rudiments 
Of  many  desperate  studies. 

SHAKESPEARE,  As  You  Like  It,  v.  4. 

WITH  our  last  days  in  Honolulu,  the  fifty-fifth 
year  of  Oahu  College  was  closing ;  for  so  early 
in  the  history  of  their  peaceful  conquest  of  the 
islands,  begun  in  1820,  did  the  fathers  of  civili- 
zation think  it  necessary  to  broaden  their  educa- 
tional resources. 

Liliha,  wife  of  Boki,  the  then  ruler  of  Oahu, 
was  evidently  a  woman  of  force,  if  also  of  energy 
misdirected.  Plotting  to  overthrow  and  remodel 
everything  in  general,  the  government  incident- 
ally, she  has  left  a  somewhat  unenviable  record. 
But  feeling  on  one  occasion  unexpectedly  gen- 
erous, she  joined  her  husband  in  presenting  to 
missionaries  the  site  for  Punahou  school,  now 
Oahu  College.  Barren  and  unproductive  then, 
no  one  could  have  foreseen  its  present  tropic 
beauty.  Liliha's  portrait  represents  her  leaning 
affectionately  upon  the  shoulder  of  her  lord  —  he 
in  mighty  helmet,  she  in  a  necklace  of  human 


BOKI,   RULER   OF    OAHU    IN    1820,  AND    LIUHA    HIS    WIFE 


A  MID-PACIFIC  COLLEGE  105 

hair.  Of  the  two,  her  face  is  decidedly  the 
stronger. 

From  its  modest  beginning  fifty-five  years  be- 
fore, the  institution  has  steadily  grown  in  scope 
and  influence.  And  now  another  building  was 
to  be  dedicated  to  high  ideals, — beautiful  Pau- 
ahi  Hall,  yet  one  more  gift  of  the  Hon.  C.  R. 
Bishop,  whose  liberality  seems  limitless.  The 
ceremonies  were  held  in  the  new  hall,  on  the 
evening  of  the  2ist  of  May.  The  fine  building 
of  native  stone,  with  its  semi-tropical  style  of 
architecture,  the  brilliant  electric  lights,  the 
polished  hard-wood  interior  finish,  and  the  paint- 
ings, etchings,  casts,  and  books,  and  the  band 
of  musicians,  were  far  from  presenting  what  the 
average  American  would  have  imagined  a  typical 
scene  of  mid-Pacific  civilization. 

The  Rev.  Daniel  Dole  landed  on  the  island, 
2ist  of  May,  1841,  and  began  his  work  of  in- 
struction and  enlightenment.  A  school  was 
opened  the  same  year,  with  a  small  class  of  chil- 
dren, in  a  little  adobe  building  a  few  yards  east 
of  where  Dole  Hall,  built  in  1848,  now  stands; 
and  this  was  the  real  beginning,  the  birthplace, 
of  Punahou  School  and  Oahu  College,  of  which 
Mr.  Dole  was  one  of  the  founders  and  the  first 
head.  This  ripe  scholar  and  Christian  gentleman, 
father  of  the  late  President  of  the  Hawaiian  Re- 
public, gave  an  impetus  and  tone  to  the  school 


106  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

which  caused  its  pupils  to  take  high  rank  in 
whatever  college  they  might  subsequently  enter 
in  the  United  States.  Habits  of  accuracy  and 
literary  taste  were  as  valuable  then  as  now,  and 
these  were  bestowed  in  liberal  measure  at  Puna- 
hou.  The  name  means  "new  spring,"  and  this 
it  became  in  all  senses.  The  high  thinking  of 
those  early  days  must  have  meant  very  plain  liv- 
ing, for  the  pupils  paid  but  fifty  cents  a  week  for 
their  board. 

A  permanent  schoolhouse  was  opened  on  the 
nth  of  July,  1842,  —  a  building  of  one  story, 
the  ground  plan  like  the  letter  E,  inclosing  two 
square  courts,  with  schoolroom  in  the  centre. 
This  building,  also  of  adobe,  its  timbers  and  raft- 
ers of  wood  from  lovely  Manoa  Valley,  roof  of 
thatch  from  Round  Top,  and  plaster  and  white- 
wash from  coral  limestone  and  sand  of  Kewalo 
reefs,  was  purely  a  native  product.  An  opening 
with  about  a  dozen  pupils  between  the  ages  of 
seven  and  twelve  was  not  a  very  striking  inaug- 
uration, but  it  marked  the  happy  point  when 
children  would  no  longer  have  to  be  sent  around 
the  Horn  for  an  American  education,  spending 
years  away  from  lonely  parents. 

In  1854  the  school  became  a  college,  not  with 
rank  corresponding  to  Yale  or  Amherst  or  Wil- 
liams, but  carrying  the  student  about  to  the 
junior  year  of  those  institutions,  and  equipping 


A  MID-PACIFIC  COLLEGE  107 

him  with  peculiar  fitness  for  the  more  liberal 
development  which  they  could  offer.  In  1863 
nearly  one  hundred  and  thirty  acres  of  the  land 
of  Punahou,  with  buildings  and  improvements, 
were  deeded  to  the  trustees  of  Oahu  College.  Its 
most  constant  and  generous  patron  has  been  Mr. 
Bishop,  whose  devotion  to  the  interests  of  the  in- 
stitution as  well  as  to  every  noble  cause  in  the 
islands  is  a  conspicuous  factor  in  its  history  and 
success. 

By  1864,  when  President  Mills  resigned,  the 
college  had  been  placed  upon  a  self-supporting 
basis,  though  the  genuine  and  happy  turning- 
point  in  its  fortunes  occurred  in  1881  at  the  cele- 
bration of  its  fortieth  anniversary,  when  a  large 
fund  was  raised  by  alumni  and  friends.  In  1882 
another  large  sum  was  added  to  the  building 
fund,  and  the  following  year  the  main  building 
was  erected,  in  1884  the  Bishop  Hall  of  Science, 
and  in  1885  the  new  President's  House.  By  1889 
the  endowment  fund  received  $  56,000,  of  which 
about  two  thirds  had  been  given  by  Mr.  Bishop. 

Shortly  after  Mr.  Frank  A.  Hosmer,  of  the 
class  of  1875  at  Amherst  College,  became  Presi- 
dent, the  semi-centennial  was  appropriately  cele- 
brated, in  1891.  The  orator  of  that  occasion 
was  the  late  and  well -beloved  General  Arm- 
strong, who  in  a  brilliant  and  characteristic 
speech  gave  many  incidents  of  old  days  when 


io8  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

he  was  a  Punahou  boy;  while  Professor  Alex- 
ander, the  distinguished  historian  of  the  islands, 
and  for  seven  years  President  of  the  college,  told 
its  story  in  his  own  delightful  manner. 

Since  then  Oahu  College  and  its  preparatory 
school  have  gone  steadily  forward,  becoming 
more  of  a  power  with  every  year.  In  1893  Presi- 
dent Hosmer  suggested,  in'  view  of  increasing 
needs  of  the  institution,  that  a  new  academic  hall 
be  built ;  plans  and  drawings  were  submitted  by 
various  architects,  every  design,  however,  carry- 
ing out  the  idea  of  a  solid  stone  pier  rising  from 
the  foundation  to  form  a  tower  for  a  telescope, 
thus  giving  all  possible  stability  to  an  elevated 
observatory.  A  compromise  between  two  of  the 
plans  was  made,  the  result  being  a  very  effec- 
tive and  handsome  building  costing  a  little  less 
than  $80,000,  —  another  superb  monument  to 
Mr.  Bishop. 

An  island  of  volcanic  rock,  varied  by  a  few 
coral  reefs  around  the  edges,  is  not  the  most  pro- 
lific spot  for  good  building  materials,  most  of  the 
stone  being  porous  and  not  impervious  to  water, 
while  the  beautiful  koa  wood  is  so  hard  that  it  is 
impracticable  on  account  of  expense  of  working  it. 
Since  timber  for  all  frame  houses  is  brought  from 
the  American  coast,  a  comparatively  simple  house 
is  of  much  greater  cost  than  in  this  country. 
Many  specimens  of  native  stone  were  submitted 


A  MID-PACIFIC  COLLEGE  109 

for  use  in  the  new  Pauahi  Hall,  and  the  building 
committee  finally  accepted  a  compact  gray  stone 
found  at  the  entrance  of  Manoa  Valley,  not  only 
very  handsome  in  itself,  but  giving  evidence  of 
entire  power  to  withstand  water. 

The  grounds,  with  their  mass  of  tropical  foli- 
age, the  fine  algaroba  trees,  and  avenues  of 
palms,  were  in  gala  dress  for  the  dedication  cere- 
monies, and  the  formal  transference  of  Pauahi  to 
the  college  faculty.  The  address  of  the  even- 
ing was  given  by  the  distinguished  President  of 
the  Republic,  the  Hon.  Sanford  B.  Dole,  who 
was  greeted  with  prolonged  and  enthusiastic  ap- 
plause. His  delightful  speech  was  full  of  the 
best  spirit  of  modern  Hawaii,  reaching  always  for 
the  highest,  yet  permeated  throughout  by  the 
poetry  bequeathed  from  the  older  days. 

After  the  address,  the  keys  of  the  new  build- 
ing were  delivered,  with  an  interesting  speech 
by  the  Hon.  W.  R.  Castle,  to  President  Hosmer, 
who  responded  with  feeling  tribute  to  those  de- 
voted men  in  the  past  who  made  possible  the 
development  of  to-day,  a  growth  probably  far  be- 
yond what  they  would  have  dared  to  dream  in 
the  simple  beginnings  of  their  time.  A  fine 
organ,  presented  by  Mrs.  S.  N.  Castle  as  a  me- 
morial to  her  husband,  was  played  during  the 
evening,  and  there  were  selections  by  the  Col- 
lege Glee  Club  and  an  orchestra  lately  inaugu- 
rated by  the  students. 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


The  wonderful  Hawaiian  climate,  never  too 
hot  and  never  too  cold,  appeared  that  evening  at 
its  best,  and  will  always  add  its  indefinable  but 
no  less  haunting  charm  to  Oahu  memories. 

Strolling  across  the  grounds  under  the  tropical 
foliage  and  by  the  light  of  swinging  Japanese  lan- 
terns, we  reached  the  President's  House,  where 
an  informal  reception  was  held. 

This  only  night  on  shore  at  Honolulu  was  fol- 
lowed by  a  lovely  morning,  dewy  and  fragrant, 
amid  trees  and  vines,  flowers  and  shrubs  of  the 
college  grounds,  musical  with  bird-songs,  and 
recalling  the  choicest  of  New  England's  midsum- 
mer dawns.  A  day  full  of  meaning  to  Oahu 
College  was  this  last  one  for  the  students  in  the 
old  historic  building,  quite  inadequate  now,  yet 
full  of  tender  association.  Their  feelings  were 
not  of  exultation  merely,  in  entering  a  wider  life 
in  modern  environment.  Eager  and  intelligent 
faces,  and  the  appreciative  attention  accorded  a 
short  talk  given  them  at  prayers,  betokened  a 
waiting  future  full  of  progress  and  achievement. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

THE    LEPERS    OF    MOLOKAI 

But  Sir  Launfal  sees  naught  save  the  gruesome  thing, 
The  leper,  lank  as  the  rain-blanched  bone 
That  cowers  beside  him,  a  thing  as  lone 
And  white  as  the  ice-isles  of  Northern  seas 
In  the  desolate  horror  of  his  disease. 

LOWELL,  The  Vision  of  'Sir  Launfal. 

SIR  LAUNFAL  "gave  the  leper  to  eat  and 
drink,"  and  despite  the  poverty  of  his  repast,  it 
seemed  to  the  gray  and  gruesome  recipient  like 
fine  bread  and  red  wine  — 

"  For  a  god  goes  with  it,  and  makes  it  store 
To  the  soul  that  was  starving  in  darkness  before." 

And  notwithstanding  their  ignorance  and  un- 
cleanness,  the  Hawaiian  lepers  are  treated  with 
care  and  generosity  deserving  more  than  grate- 
ful recognition  from  a  glorified  community.  In- 
deed, it  is  said  that  life  on  Molokai  is  now  con- 
sidered so  desirable  by  many  natives  that  they 
have  been  known  to  feign  the  disease  in  order  to 
be  taken  there,  supported  by  the  Government  in 
ease  and  idleness. 

Leprosy,  not  indigenous  but  imported,  was 
first  observed  in  the  islands  in  1853.  When  its 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


spread,  in  1865,  was  thought  alarming,  an  act 
was  passed  isolating  cases  in  separate  establish- 
ments. A  year  later  about  one  hundred  and 
forty  were  sent  to  Molokai,  but  rules  were  not 
very  strictly  enforced.  If  one  only  of  a  mar- 
ried couple  developed  the  disease,  the  other  was 
allowed  to  go  also  to  Molokai.  On  accession  of 
King  Lunalilo  in  1873,  strenuous  efforts  were 
made  by  his  new  cabinet  to  carry  into  effect  a 
law  of  absolute  seclusion,  and  over  five  hundred 
persons  were  sent  to  the  settlement.  This  of 
course  excited  bitter  opposition,  but  it  was  in 
line  with  the  enlightened  policy  of  this  monarch, 
who  lived  to  reign  only  a  little  over  a  year. 

Now,  although  healthy  wives  or  husbands  may 
not  accompany  their  diseased  consorts  to  the  set- 
tlement, marriages  on  Molokai  among  the  lepers 
themselves  are  not  forbidden.  Some  children 
born  in  that  retreat  are  actually  healthy,  and 
without  trace  of  the  dread  disease.  When  on 
their  official  visits  the  Board  of  Health  bring 
back  to  Honolulu  all  such  cases,  if  the  parents 
consent,  and  they  are  reared  and  educated  away 
from  infection.  Often  they  do  not  develop  lep- 
rosy at  all  in  after  years.  If  the  unmistakable 
signs  appear,  they  must  return  to  their  birth- 
place. What  a  weird  and  terrible  meeting  be- 
tween parents  and  children  so  tragically  re- 
united ! 


THE  LEPERS  OF  MOLOKAI        113 

When  the  Board  of  Health  start  for  Molokai, 
heartrending  scenes  often  occur  as  the  steamer 
is  about  to  sail,  —  friends  and  relatives  of  lepers 
crowd  the  gangway,  begging  permission  to  visit 
afflicted  comrades.  But  quarantine  is  necessa- 
rily strict  and  unswerving. 

Without  seeing  practical  means  of  gratifying 
his  desire,  the  Doctor  had  always  hoped  to  visit 
the  leper  settlement.  He  remarked  pathetically 
that  any  suggestion  of  his  wish  was  far  from 
popular  on  board  the  Coronet,  being  met  either 
with  stern  silence,  or  browbeating  and  discour- 
agement, —  even  by  assurance  that  he  would 
certainly  be  thrown  overboard  upon  his  return, 
should  he  finally  succeed  in  reaching  Molokai, 
goal  of  his  hopes. 

But  in  this  often  unreasonable  world  where 
Fortune  brazenly  chooses  her  favorites  regard- 
less of  merit,  sterling  worth,  probably  by  mis- 
take, is  sometimes  rewarded.  One  of  the  cus- 
tomary tours  of  the  Board  was  due  a  day  or  two 
before  the  Coronet  set  sail  for  Japan,  the  good 
Doctor  received  a  cordial  invitation  to  join  the 
medical  men  on  their  trip,  and  regardless  of  a 
dire  fate  upon  his  return  he  accepted  with  alac- 
rity. 

Upon  the  unfortunate  lepers  Government 
spends  annually  $150,000,  or  one  tenth  of  its  en- 
tire income.  The  Doctor's  own  journal,  which 


H4  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

he  has  kindly  given  me,  is  only  second  in  inter- 
est to  a  personal  visit.  He  rowed  away  from  the 
Coronet  on  the  22d  May,  ..."  after  receiving  all 
sorts  of  warnings  and  good  counsels,  and  scram- 
bled up  on  the  wharf  of  the  Inter-Island  Steam 
Navigation  Company.  Already  a  few  passengers 
had  arrived,  and  some  officers  of  the  Board  of 
Health  were  there  to  keep  back  the  natives,  who 
were  beseeching  in  Hawaiian,  vainly  attempting 
to  secure  passage  to  see  their  friends  and  rela- 
tives on  the  island.  It  was  a  pitiful  sight,  —  the 
dearest  ties  of  life  severed  by  imported  disease, 
and  Molokai,  so  near  and  yet  so  far,  forever  un- 
visited  except  by  acquiring  the  dread  malady. 
Their  appeals,  addressed  to  each  officer  in  turn, 
could  be  met  by  nothing  but  the  prompt  refusal 
of  a  strict  quarantine. 

"  Dr.  Emerson,  head  and  front  of  the  arrange- 
ments, gave  me  my  pass,  —  which  stated  that 
I  went  for  scientific  purposes,  —  and  then  we 
pushed  on  our  way  up  the  gang  plank. 

"The  leper  settlement  had  a  great  deal  of  inter- 
est to  me  medically,  but  I  had  become  acquainted 
with  the  disease  only  through  scanty  textbooks. 
To  me  as  much  as  to  one  of  the  laity  it  repre- 
sented an  unclean  and  unattractive  malady,  and 
although  I  had  no  fear  of  contagion,  I  anticipated 
that  my  sympathy  would  be  strongly  roused. 
Not  knowing  how  the  disease  would  appear,  I  felt 


THE  LEPERS  OF  MOLOKAI  115 

I  should  be  glad  to  have  the  inspection  of  the 
first  unfortunate  over,  so  that  I  could  study  its 
effects  in  different  stages  without  morbid  interest. 

"The  steamer  anchored  at  5.30  A.  M.,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  from  the  shore.  As  I  looked 
from  my  stateroom  window  I  could  see  lepers 
congregated  on  shore,  and  surrounded  by  saddled 
horses,  ready  for  our  service.  The  settlement, 
composed  of  neat  white  frame  houses,  looked 
more  attractive  than  many  coast  towns  of  these 
islands. 

"  A  band  in  white  uniforms  played  characteris- 
tic native  melodies,  adding  an  element  of  melan- 
choly which  well  suited  the  scene ;  for  these 
people  were  trying  to  make  the  best  of  an  op- 
portunity afforded  by  the  semi-annual  tour  of 
inspection.  To  them  it  meant  a  gala  day,  to  us 
a  sorry  spectacle. 

"  After  breakfast  we  were  rowed  ashore,  and 
on  reaching  the  wharf  I  caught  my  first  glimpse 
of  a  leper.  A  small  boy  about  twelve  years  old 
was  comfortably  seated  on  a  rock.  His  face  was 
rounded  and  enlarged,  yet  withered.  His  eyes, 
deep  set  beneath  knotted  eyebrows,  and  the  nose 
(partly  because  the  bones  were  destroyed,  and 
partly  from  contrast  with  the  swollen  cheeks) 
looked  almost  lacking.  His  mouth,  represented 
by  a  slit,  was  opened  and  shut  when  talking,  in 
a  peculiarly  lifeless  manner,  and  hypertrophied 


n6  CORONA  AND  CORONET 

ears  hung  down  like  diminutive  elephant' s-ears. 
On  drawing  nearer  I  saw  that  his  face  was  cov- 
ered with  tubercles  varying  in  size  from  a  pea  to 
a  bantam's  egg,  giving  the  appearance  of  a  target 
for  mischievous  boys'  putty  balls.  Eyebrows 
and  eyelashes  had  fallen  out ;  hands  and  feet 
were  swollen,  and  the  ring  and  little  fingers  of 
each  hand  had  fallen  off  to  their  bases,  while 
both  great  toes  were  bandaged  as  if  in  the  same 
process  of  decay.  Soon  we  were  near  enough  to 
see  similar  characteristics  in  a  hundred  faces. 

"  On  landing  we  walked  to  the  so-called  club- 
house, and  while  the  officers  of  the  Board  of 
Health  proceeded  to  business,  the  rest  of  us  sat 
upon  the  porch,  admired  by  a  motley  crowd  of 
lepers,  and  entertained  by  the  band,  which  played 
very  well.  It  consists  of  ten  musicians,  some  of 
whom  belonged  to  the  old  Royal  Band,  and  the 
leader  still  appeared  in  a  cap  with  embroidered 
crown  which  he  wore  in  his  former  proud  posi- 
tion. He  was  a  good-looking  fellow,  and  bore 
no  evidence  of  disease  at  this  distance.  All  the 
rest  were  unmistakable  lepers,  and  the  man  who 
played  the  flageolet  was  grotesquely  horrible. 
Some  of  the  instruments  were  fingered  by  hands 
which  seemed  too  deformed  to  be  useful.  The 
bass  horn  was  held  by  pressure  of  the  arm 
against  the  body,  as  the  player's  left  hand  was  so 
withered  and  drawn  out  of  shape  that  it  was  use- 


THE  LEPERS  OF  MOLOKAI  117 

less  ;  and  as  he  had  but  two  good  fingers  on  his 
right  hand,  they  had  to  be  shifted  in  managing 
the  three  stops  of  the  instrument.  Another  mu- 
sician had  lost  an  eye,  and  one  limped  as  if  his 
foot  were  nearly  gone ;  while  taken  as  a  whole, 
the  distorted  faces  gave  a  weird  background  to 
the  performance. 

"  The  assistant  superintendent  has  been  on  the 
island  as  a  leper  for  twenty  years.  He  has  the 
anaesthetic  form,  showing  no  tubercles  or  lost 
members ;  but  his  face  was  shiny,  sunken,  and 
like  wax.  When  talking,  his  lower  jaw  dropped, 
and  to  close  his  mouth  a  distorted  hand  was 
pressed  against  the  chin. 

"  The  yard  was  packed  with  horses,  and  by  nine 
o'clock  lepers  crowded  amongst  us,  eagerly  offer- 
ing their  horses  for  us  to  ride  across  the  country, 
a  distance  of  six  miles.  Doctor  Emerson  saw  that 
I  secured  a  good  horse,  and  our  party  cantered 
away.  It  was  a  delightful  ride,  although  each  of 
us  was  on  a  leper's  horse,  in  a  leper's  saddle, 
and  handling  the  same  reins  that  the  diseased 
hands  of  a  leper  had  handled  ;  we  forgot  about  it 
in  the  pleasure  of  the  moment.  Away  above  us 
rose  a  sheer  precipice,  and  to  the  left  lay  the  sea, 
making  natural  barriers  shutting  in  the  settle- 
ment. 

"  The  Baldwin  Home  for  boys  is  a  neat  little 
village,  named  for  Mrs.  Baldwin,  who  gave  $5000 


ii8  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

for  its  foundation.  To  this  the  Government  has 
added  $1000  and  superintended  the  building  of 
a  pretty  quadrangle.  The  frame  dormitories  ac- 
commodate eight  or  ten  boys  each,  and  in  the 
centre  of  the  square  is  a  grass  plot.  The  Gov- 
ernment has  great  pride  in  the  neatness  of  this 
home,  and  has  spent  much  money  in  planting 
trees  and  shrubs  about  it. 

"  The  authorities  took  pleasure  in  pointing  out 
the  comfortable  arrangements,  frequently  stop- 
ping to  indicate  some  of  the  worst  cases,  which 
all  look  more  or  less  alike ;  but  one  young  boy 
I  shall  never  forget,  with  face  so  enlarged  by  tu- 
berosities  that  his  whole  head  appeared  tremen- 
dous. His  lips  were  so  thickened  and  hardened 
as  to  make  them  from  one  to  one  and  one  half 
inches  in  thickness,  and  when  they  parted  in 
talking  the  appearance  was  that  of  a  wooden 
mechanism  in  action.  The  corners  of  his  mouth 
became  continuous  with  deep  furrows  in  either 
cheek  which  made  the  mouth  apparently  of  huge 
dimensions,  extending  into  the  middle  of  his 
cheeks.  This  with  elongated  ears  and  knotted 
face  gave  him  an  effect  which  I  could  liken  to 
nothing  human,  but  rather  to  a  Chinese  god  of 
war.  His  small  body  corresponded  poorly  with 
the  monstrous  head  and  facial  senility. 

"  Brother  Button  was  introduced  to  me  here, 
where  he  has  made  his  home  for  the  last  eight 


THE  LEPERS  OF  MOLOKAI  119 

years,  in  service  of  the  lepers.  He  has  done  a 
great  deal  to  make  their  lives  happier  and  to  ar- 
range details  of  the  home.  Nobody  knows  what 
led  him  to  take  up  this  life,  but  it  is  reported  by 
gossip  that  he  was  disappointed  in  love,  or  per- 
haps he  committed  some  crime  for  which  his 
conscience  is  now  making  him  do  penance.  He 
is  about  forty  years  old,  and  his  services  are  ren- 
dered without  inducement  or  remuneration. 

"  Father  Damien's  tomb  stands  across  the  road 
beside  the  church  he  made  with  his  own  hands. 
He  died  of  the  disease  contracted  while  minister- 
ing here.1 

"  On  the  way  back  we  visited  the  crater  of  an 
extinct  volcano,  and  reaching  the  club-house  we 
found  luncheon,  sent  ashore  from  the  Iwalani. 
Then  I  strolled  into  the  female  quarters,  only  to 
find  arrangements  the  neatest  and  most  attrac- 
tive on  the  island.  This  portion  of  the  work  is 
overseen  by  four  Catholic  sisters  from  Syracuse, 
New  York,  with  their  Mother  Superior.  Their 
handiwork  is  apparent  in  all  the  dormitories,  and 
their  influence  in  the  figures  of  two  young  girls 
kneeling  before  the  miniature  altar  of  the  chapel. 
The  sister  who  guided  me  about  responded  very 
politely  to  my  questions,  and  I  could  not  but  ad- 
mire her  quiet  and  attractive  manner. 

1  Another  monument  in  his  honor  sent  by  the  Prince  of 
Wales  stands  near  the  main  landing. 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


"In  one  of  the  dormitories  I  found  the  only 
example  of  suffering  which  I  saw  at  Molokai. 
The  patient  was  middle-aged,  her  frame  literally 
wasted  to  a  skeleton.  She  had  not  long  to  live, 
and  her  labored  breathing  was  exaggerated  by 
a  wheezing  which  comes  when  membranes  of 
throat  and  nose  are  attacked ;  but  a  sorrier  sight 
was  her  leper  companion,  who  tried  to  support 
and  fan  her  with  crippled  and  bandaged  hands. 

"The  Board  of  Health  were  busy  all  day. 
Twice  a  year  they  are  compelled  to  examine  all 
children  born  here.  Those  pronounced  clean  are 
taken  away,  if  the  parents  wish  it,  but  their  con- 
sent is  not  always  obtained. 

"  It  was  pitiful  to  see  some  of  the  young  boys 
and  girls  on  whom  leprous  spots  were  beginning 
to  show,  but  to  them  it  is  only  expected;  and 
they  have  seen  no  other  world  than  this.  Mr. 
Mills  and  I  went  the  rounds  thoroughly,  and  as 
we  had  some  time  to  spare  took  another  horse- 
back ride.  Two  lepers  accompanied  us  on  either 
side  as  guides. 

"The  settlement  occupies  six  thousand  acres  of 
fertile  land,  where  the  large  town  of  Kalaupapa 
was  originally  located,  and  includes  the  valley 
of  Waikolu  and  the  village  of  Kalawao.  Sur- 
rounded by  the  sea  on  three  sides,  it  is  shut  off 
on  the  fourth,  toward  the  south,  by  cliffs  two 
or  three  thousand  feet  high,  —  a  beautiful  spot 


THE  LEPERS  OF  MOLOKAI 


which  would  do  credit  to  a  more  attractive  popu- 
lation. 

"  Rations  are  given  out  generously,  and  as  no 
work  is  required,  the  lazy  Hawaiian  temperament 
is  well  suited.  Their  love  of  horses  is  gratified 
lavishly,  for  there  are  two  horses  for  each  man. 
To  all  outward  appearance  the  lepers  are  better 
cared  for  than  they  would  be  at  home ;  and 
as  they  have  no  fear  of  leprosy  as  a  disease,  and 
contract  it  by  their  own  neglect  and  filthiness, 
they  also  gradually  die  without  pain  or  worry. 

"  The  painless  character  of  this"  disease  is  cer- 
tainly very  fortunate.  The  first  parts  of  the 
body  attacked  are  the  nerves  ;  so  that  horrible 
deformities  and  loss  of  members  surely  accom- 
plish their  result,  though  with  no  discomfort, 
such  as  would  be  expected. 

"I  left  the  lepers  of  Molokai  with  less  sym- 
pathy than  I  had  anticipated  ;  but  as  the  band 
played  our  farewell,  I  was  saddened  by  the 
thought  of  their  failure  to  realize  their  miser- 
able condition." 

On  this  return  trip  of  the  Iwalani  twelve 
"  clean  "  children  were  brought  back,  who  may 
perhaps  entirely  escape  the  fate  of  their  parents. 

" '  Room  for  the  leper  !  Room  ! '    And  as  he  came 
The  cry  passed  on,  — '  Room  for  the  leper ! 
Room ! ' 

And  aside  they  stood, 


122  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Matron  and  child,  and  pitiless  manhood,  all 
Who  met  him  on  his  way,  —  and  let  him  pass." 

No  such  feeling  as  we  have  always  connected 
with  this  horrible  disease,  and  which  poets  and 
novelists  have  sometimes  treated  in  ghastly  fash- 
ion, troubles  the  Hawaiian  native.  His  lack  of 
dread  is  often  the  means  of  his  contracting  the 
disease.  Transmitted  largely  through  the  saliva, 
all  the  members  of  a  family,  clean  and  unclean, 
continue  to  dip  their  fingers  in  the  common  bowl 
of  poi.  Unlike  the  white  leprosy  of  Syria,  this 
form  is,  thus  far,  equally  incurable.  Its  germ 
has  been  found,  and  something  may  ultimately 
be  discovered  to  neutralize  or  destroy  it.  Curi- 
ously enough,  leprosy  alone  does  not  cause  death, 
though  death  usually  comes  sooner  to  those  so 
afflicted,  because  of  its  general  weakening  effect 
on  all  the  organs,  rendering  them  peculiarly  lia- 
ble to  give  way  under  slight  strain  from  other 
diseases. 

The  Doctor  returned  almost  without  protest, 
during  the  progress  of  a  farewell  reception  on 
the  Coronet  to  some  of  the  friends  who  had  so 
lavishly  entertained  its  company  on  shore. 

The  deck  was  draped  with  Hawaiian  and 
American  flags,  and  numberless  pennants.  Jap- 
anese lanterns  hung  thickly  along  the  awning 
and  among  the  green,  while  flowers  and  foliage 
filled  every  available  spot.  Cozy  corners  with 


THE  LEPERS  OF  MOLOKAI  123 

cushions  and  rugs  appeared  unexpectedly  here 
and  there,  the  gig  plied  back  and  forth  to  the 
wharf  bringing  guests,  and  a  native  orchestra 
played  softly  through  the  enchanted  evening. 
Supper  and  dancing,  songs  and  friendliness  until 
midnight ;  and  then  the  quiet  of  a  luminous 
tropical  night,  the  Southern  Cross  dipping  in  the 
sea,  the  sweet  life  of  the  island  a  memory. 

Only  a  busy  morning  remained  before  the 
long  voyage.  After  luncheon,  guests  assembled 
for  good-bys.  Huge  baskets  of  fruit,  enormous 
stems  of  ripening  bananas,  flowers  in  countless 
bouquets  and  nameless  luxuriant  masses  covered 
every  spot,  and  a  hundred  leis  were  tossed  over 
hats  and  shoulders  of  the  departing  company, 
until  each  prospective  voyager  resembled  an  ani- 
mated tower  of  bloom. 

Then  with  last  farewells,  a  few  lingering  hand- 
shakes from  deck  to  dock  —  native  boys  all  about 
diving  for  dimes  —  we  were  off  with  dipping 
colors  from  the  Adams,  and  final  salutes  rever- 
berating. Lifting  her  white  wings  to  the  sum- 
mer wind,  out  through  reefs  and  breaking  surf 
the  Coronet  took  flight,  over  brilliant  blue  and 
green  and  purple  water  into  deep-sea  indigo  be- 
yond. 

President  Dole  accompanied  us  for  a  few  miles 
in  his  yacht,  but  when  he  had  finally  to  turn 
back,  there  were  more  dippings  and  salutes,  with 


124  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

the  Williams  yell  for  him,  and  the  Amherst 
cheer  for  the  expedition.  Then  the  yachts 
parted  too  far  for  sound  of  word,  while  Tantalus 
and  Punch  Bowl  and  fair  Diamond  Head  grew 
indistinct  —  yet  more  misty  with  atmospheric 
distance,  and  finally  disappeared  in  gathering 
twilight.  With  full  hearts  we  said  aloha  to  these 
beautiful  islands,  already  like  home  to  each  of  us, 
with  their  friendly  faces,  their  pathetic  music, 
their  gentle  language  like  running  water,  their 
unsolved  problems,  and  their  brooding  charm. 


CHAPTER   XIV 

FOUR  WEEKS   AT   SEA 

Alone,  alone,  all,  all  alone, 
Alone  in  a  -wide,  wide  sea. 

COLERIDGE,  Ancient  Mariner. 

Illusion  dwells  forever  with  the  wave. 

EMERSON,  Sea-shore. 

WESTWARD  and  slightly  south  pointed  the 
graceful  bow  of  the  Coronet,  ever  nearer  the 
equator.  A  far  southerly  course  would  take  full- 
est advantage  of  the  regular  trade-winds  ;  but 
before  they  were  entirely  upon  us  the  days  were 
hot,  quiet,  tropically  lovely,  the  glassy  sea  spread- 
ing white  and  dreamy  to  a  misty  horizon.  Now 
and  then  a  sunbeam  struck  through  the  prevail- 
ing haze  from  some  far-off  rift,  and  then  a  spar- 
kling line,  miles  away,  lay  like  silent  surf  break- 
ing on  an  invisible  shore. 

With  sea- water  at  80°  F.,  our  days  began  by  a 
plunge  into  the  white  bath-tank.  Immediately 
after  breakfast  the  awning  was  put  up,  impos- 
sible as  it  was  to  remain  on  deck  a  moment  with- 
out it,  in  the  heat  and  often  blinding  sunshine; 
and  the  great  boom,  swung  far  out  over  the 
water,  was  not  shifted  all  day.  Great  was  the 


126  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

heat,  and  the  bananas,  hanging  in  the  shade, 
ripened  apace  —  yet  not  too  rapidly. 

Always  a  surprise  when  mid-forenoon  luncheon 
appeared,  regular  tiffin  at  one  seemed  but  a  few 
minutes  later  ;  when  the  afternoon  had  appar- 
ently but  just  begun,  five  o'clock  tea  was  brought 
on  deck  —  chased  by  dinner.  And  then  came 
long,  warm  evenings  under  the  brilliant  stars. 
Occasional  sunsets  were  fine,  but  as  a  rule  not  as 
gorgeous  as  on  the  Atlantic.  Twilights  grew 
shorter,  darkness  following  quickly  after  sunset. 

"  One  sun  by  day,  by  night  ten  thousand  shine," 

but  superb  moonlight  paled  the  glory  of  the 
Southern  Cross  rising  higher  above  the  horizon, 
the  brilliant  Scorpion,  and  all  the  tropic  skies. 
Our  nearest  stellar  neighbor,  Alpha  Centauri,  be- 
came a  distinct  point  of  a  new  firmament.  The 
nearest  star !  And  yet  so  far  away  that  its  light, 
if  starting  toward  us  now  for  the  first  time, 
would  not  reach  the  earth  for  over  four  years. 
And  proportionally  our  old  friend  Polaris  sank 
toward  the  northern  sea-line  with  his  tethered 
constellations ;  even  the  tried  and  trusted  Dipper 
descended  alarmingly  low,  but  at  this  season  we 
never  quite  lost  it 

Night  after  night,  in  the  warm  darkness,  the 
infinite  southern  skies  full  of  strange  suns  grew 
in  impressiveness  and  solemnity.  As  Kipling 


FOUR    WEEKS  AT  SEA  127 

says  of  the  marvelous  Indian  stars,  they  seemed 
not  "all  pricked  in  on  one  plane,"  but  preserved 
their  own  perspective  through  the  velvet  black- 
ness. 

Distances  and  difficulties  are  never  insur- 
mountable to  the  modern  astronomer,  with  his 
splendid  mechanical  equipments.  He  questions 
the  empyrean  boldly,  and  little  by  little  receives 
answer  from  illimitable  space.  Old  observers 
contented  themselves  with  studying  motions  and 
places  of  heavenly  bodies;  with  long  midnight 
vigils  at  their  telescopes,  and  still  longer  compu- 
tations, until  every  inhabitant  of  space  that  could 
be  seen  by  aid  of  their  instruments  had,  in  addi- 
tion to  its  own  appointed  path  and  position  in  the 
celestial  vault,  its  corresponding  place  no  less 
definitely  in  their  columns  of  figures.  But  they 
knew  nothing  of  what  neighboring  stars  and 
planets  are  made ;  even  the  constitution  of  the 
sun  was  as  a  sealed  book. 

Now,  the  triumphant  "  new  astronomy "  lays 
its  daring  finger  on  the  most  distant  stars,  find- 
ing in  Aldebaran  and  Betelgeux  elemental  sub- 
stances not  only  identical  with  those  closest  to 
us  on  earth,  but  blazing  as  well  in  the  majestic 
light  of  our  own  sun.  Even  the  unformed  nebu- 
lae, ghostly  tenants  of  cosmic  space,  perhaps 
birthplace  of  systems  yet  to  be,  have  yielded  part 
of  their  filmy  secrets  to  the  insistent  spectroscope, 


128  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

and  one  by  one  the  mysteries  of  the  universe  are 
unfolding  to  the  keen  eyes  and  trained  skill  of 
modern  astronomy. 

Once  a  galaxy  of  reticence,  the  chemistry  of  the 
stars  is  now  known  to  be  generically  the  same  as 
that  of  the  sun ;  and  depths  of  space  unsounded 
by  the  telescope  are  brought  by  celestial  photo- 
graphy to  eager  eyes  of  waiting  astronomers.  A 
wonderful  sensitiveness  in  photographic  plates 
takes  cognizance  of  faintest  light  from  unknown 
suns  blazing  uncomprehended  millions  of  miles 
away,  which  no  merely  optical  telescope,  however 
powerful,  can  show,  and  which  encourages  no 
present  hope  that  human  eyes  will  ever  be  able 
to  visualize  in  future  ages.  The  invisible  is 
brought  before  us  with  irrefutable  evidence  ;  and 
distant  wanderers  through  the  stellar  void  which 
would  otherwise  have  remained  forever  unseen 
are  discovered,  caught,  and  held  for  all  time. 

"  Silent  as  death  the  awful  spaces  lie  " 

no  less  now  than  when  to  Immanuel  Kant  the 
starry  heavens  above  were,  with  the  moral  law 
within,  the  most  impressive  concepts  recognizable 
by  the  human  mind.  Warm  foregrounds  of  vil- 
lages and  fields,  mountains  and  forests,  soften  and 
make  remote  the  solemnity  of  the  nightly  sky. 
At  sea  each  soul  seems  alone  with  eternal  ver- 
ities. 


FOUR    WEEKS  AT  SEA  129 

Sundays  were  quiet  days  of  blue  and  gold, 
morning  service  read  in  the  saloon  as  before, 
well  attended  by  the  sailors ;  and  long  after- 
noons on  the  shaded  deck,  full  of  peace  and  liquid 
silence. 

Our  sailing  master  pursued  the  even  tenor  of 
his  way,  undisturbed  by  changes  of  crew  forced 
upon  him  at  every  port.  The  first  mate  had 
joined  the  Coronet  at  San  Francisco,  a  bluff 
man  with  a  mighty  voice,  and  not  above  seizing 
a  halyard  in  his  grasp  of  iron  if  he  detected  a  bit 
of  lazy  hauling  among  the  men  ;  the  second  mate, 
a  fair-haired  Russian,  reliable  and  resourceful,  is 
now  the  Coronet's  trusted  first  mate.  The  num- 
ber of  complicated  knots  which  this  amiable 
Andrew  tried  faithfully  to  teach  some  of  us  to 
tie,  might  have  led  to  a  profession  in  themselves. 

Two  quartermasters  are  charged  with  details 
on  board  more  than  the  other  sailors  :  they  see 
that  lights  are  in  proper  position,  deck-chairs  put 
away  at  night  and  arranged  in  the  morning,  the 
owner's  "absent"  flag  and  dinner-flags  rightly 
hoisted  in  port,  and  altogether  they  are  respon- 
sible for  the  minor  etiquette  of  yachting. 

Many  new  forecastle  faces  appeared  on  the 
trip  outward  from  Honolulu.  Several  who  came 
around  the  Horn  in  the  Coronet  had  left  at  San 
Francisco,  while  others  dropped  off  at  Honolulu, 
—  an  uneasy  class.  The  various  names,  how- 


130  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

ever,  seemed  to  remain  always  on  board,  and  the 
Jims  and  Toms  and  Charlies  were  simply  at- 
tached to  different  personalities. 

One  sturdy  little  sailor  was  hardly  taller  than 
the  great  wheel,  seeming  to  command  it  with 
ease  in  spite  of  the  momentary  impression  that 
it  would  take  him  in  hand.  Another  was  a  typi- 
cal stage-seaman,  —  young  and  handsome,  with 
dark  eyes  and  fine  features,  tall  and  well-formed 
as  an  athlete,  with  a  throat  like  a  strong  white 
column ;  his  bright  and  cheerful  expression  sug- 
gested just  having  finished,  or  readiness  to  begin 
some  rollicking  tenor  solo  before  a  waiting  audi- 
ence, about  "joys  of  a  sailor's  life,  yo-ho."  But 
he  never  did.  Mother  Goose's  Simple  Simon 
daily  helped  to  set  sails,  or  scrub  decks,  or  took 
his  turn  at  the  wheel.  When  hauling  on  a  hal- 
yard he  put  in  his  whole  soul,  with  facial  results 
appropriate  to  the  instant  of  committing  a  com- 
plicated murder.  The  same  sailor  who  spun 
great  yarns  remained  on  board,  and  his  stories 
grew  as  the  voyage  progressed.  One  day  the 
Doctor  came  aft,  from  an  excursion  to  the  bow, 
and  related  a  surgical  tale  deserving  record. 
Big  Jim  was  apt  to  regard  the  profession  of  his 
auditors. 

"  I  was  once  thirteen  months  in  a  Bombay 
hospital,"  he  announced,  "  and  at  the  end  of  that 
time  the  doctors  had  to  take  six  inches  out  of 


FOUR    WEEKS  AT  SEA  131 

my    backbone.      So    I    never  grew  any  more. 
Stunted  for  life." 

This  story  only  failed  of  its  best  impressive- 
ness  because  the  victim  was  the  tallest  sailor  on 
board.  Having  warned  some  one  reading  on  the 
forward  deck  against  such  dangerous  employ- 
ment, Big  Jim  said,  "  Why,  I  used  to  read  all  the 
time  myself,  and  it  made  my  eyes  so  bad  I  had 
to  go  to  a  hospital  and  have  'em  taken  out  and 
scrubbed.  The  doctors  found  they  could  n't  do 
it  well  enough  there,  so  they  sent  'em  away  to  be 
cleaned,  and  I  did  n't  get  'em  back  for  three 
months." 

Days  grew  constantly  hotter,  a  bird  now  and 
then  forming  the  chief  incident  in  a  wide  sky, 
although  whales  occasionally  spouted  or  sharks 
darted  through  the  water,  their  sharp  fins  easily 
recognizable ;  once  a  series  of  fine  water-spouts 
swept  our  early  morning  horizon.  No  sails  ap- 
peared. If  there  were  "ships  that  pass  in  the 
night,"  they  remained  invisible. 

But  winds  were  at  last  with  us,  steady  and 
strong,  and  good  runs  were  made,  —  the  whole 
voyage  beautiful  enough  to  last  forever  without 
protest.  Scrapbooks  were  brought  up  to  date, 
even  to  the  aloha  from  Honolulu ;  journals  and 
letters  flourished,  chess-players  became  finished 
experts,  decorations  (in  the  shape  of  various  pen- 
nants) were  painted  in  the  saloon,  serious  work  of 


132  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

the  expedition  progressed,  and  days  flew  by  on 
noiseless  wings.  The  Mechanician,  surrounded 
by  wires,  batteries,  tools  of  all  sorts,  and  small 
boxes  of  deft  devices,  sat  on  deck  with  head  bent 
forward,  ardent  spectacles  gleaming,  as  he  toiled 
early  and  late  at  the  inventions  of  the  Astrono- 
mer, who  was  occupied  near  by  in  making  the 
calculations  necessary  for  experiments  with  dif- 
ferent exposures  in  all  the  twenty  or  more  pho- 
tographic instruments,  —  each  being  arranged  to 
take  that  automatic  series  of  pictures  of  its  own 
already  described. 

Occasionally  the  Doctor  brought  forth  cases  of 
shining  and  suggestively  ingenious  tools  of  an- 
other trade,  newly  purchased  for  this  expedi- 
tion, and  all  in  best  of  condition  for  any  dire 
calamity.  Happily  lack  of  specific  use  necessi- 
tated much  attention  and  polishing  to  avoid  sea- 
rust.  When  free  from  one  sort  of  paraphernalia, 
both  deck  and  big  table  below  were  generally 
strewn  with  the  implements  of  some  other  pro- 
fession, in  orderly  confusion.  Sometimes  they 
were  summarily  swept  away  by  Alfred  "the 
Great "  as  meal-time  approached,  proper  serving 
at  the  expected  moment  being  a  far  more  serious 
consideration  than  any  mere  eclipse,  or  celestial 
streamer. 

As  for  a  little  Richard  barometer  in  the  com- 
panion-way, it  was  an  intimate  friend  of  all,  a 


FOUR    WEEKS  AT  SEA  133 

glance  at  its  telltale  cylinder  being  an  invariable 
but  half-unconscious  incident  of  every  trip  below, 
if  a  dozen  times  in  a  morning. 

The  Captain  barely  escaped  the  loss  overboard 
of  his  birthday  at  the  one  hundred  and  eightieth 
meridian,  but  its  rescue  was  celebrated  by  a 
huge  cake  with  candles,  and  many  gifts  unsealed 
from  home.  Delightful  contralto,  bass,  or  tenor 
solos  diversified  those  evenings  when  tempera- 
ture would  admit  staying  below  with  the  piano  ; 
or  quartettes  on  deck  floated  over  lonely  Pacific 
wastes  which  may  never  again  stir  those  soli- 
tudes. Chief,  too,  developed  still  another  talent, 
giving  us  burlesque  operas,  accompanied  by  the 
guitar  or  autoharp  in  thrilling  style,  some  of  his 
final  trills  and  cadenzas  falling  little  short  of  the 
sublime,  as  he  dramatically  bewailed  a  broken 
heart  in  brilliant  falsetto. 

And  still  Polaris  sank  lower,  the  Cross  riding 
nightly  higher  in  our  southern  heavens. 

Hoisting  the  main  topmast-staysail  was  always 
a  pretty  sight.  When  lowered  and  stowed  away 
it  is  delicately  tied  together  in  a  long  roll,  and 
hauled  into  position  still  tied ;  but  when  in  place, 
the  wind  and  a  slight  jerk  breaking  the  little 
cords  in  speedy  succession,  it  falls  apart  white 
and  graceful,  and  is  quickly  made  fast. 

At  early  morning,  oftentimes,  a  curious  noise 
like  the  rush  of  an  amateur  cyclone  sounded  over 


134  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

our  heads,  but  it  was  only  a  sailor  scrubbing  his 
white  duck  clothes  on  deck  in  sea-water  with  a 
big  brush  and  salt-water  soap.  In  the  main  they 
were  fresh-faced,  wholesome  men,  these  sailors  of 
the  Pacific,  quiet  and  industrious,  with  great 
pride  in  the  beautiful  Coronet. 

The  shanties  still  continued,  our  mate,  as  on 
the  previous  voyage,  singing  the  solos,  and  a 
hearty  chorus  aiding  greatly  in  hoisting  the 
mainsail. 

"  Oh,  Bony  was  a  warrior  "  seemed  a  favorite  : 

1  Oh,  Bony  was  a  warrior,  wa,  a,  wa-a,  Oh,  Bony  was  a  war- 

rior, wa-a  —  John  French  war  (Jean  Francois.). 

2  He  was  a  holy  terrier. 

3  Oh,  Bony  went  to  sea  one  day, 

4  He  went  across  to  Eng-land, 

5  The  England  did  a'  stop  him. 

6  Oh,  Bony  went  to  Moscow, 

7  He  gained  a  bunch  of  roses  there. 

8  Oh,  Bony  went  to  France  again. 

9  The  England  went  a'  after  him, 
10  He  brought  him  Saint  Helena, 

where  his  adventures  seemed  to  lapse.  "  Whiskey 
boys,  whiskey/'  was  no  less  popular. 

"  A  long  time  ago  "  was  fitted  with  words  de- 
scribing the  escapades  of  a  certain  sailor  at  Hon- 
olulu who  had  boasted  of  his  income  from  his 
real  estate  in  that  city  :  — 

"It  was  the  merry  month  of  May ;  Wa,  wa,  wa,  wa. 
The  Coronet  at  Honolulu  lay,  A  long  time  ago. 


FOUR    WEEKS  AT  SEA  135 

"  Jimmy  went  on  shore  that  day,  etc. 
To  draw  his  rent  and  three  months'  pay : 
Jimmy  did  not  come  back  that  day  "  — 

and  so  on  through  a  long  tale  varied  as  feeling 
toward  Jimmy  rose  or  fell. 

After  the  course  was  changed  to  northwest, 
winds  became  curiously  fitful,  almost  as  if  the 
edge  of  a  typhoon  had  passed  by,  so  abnormal 
were  the  conditions.  Showers  fell,  general  roll- 
ing prevailed,  winds  died  out,  or  else  sharp 
breezes  sprung  up  from  unexpected  quarters. 
For  several  days  anything  was  anticipated,  but 
one  afternoon  a  regular  wind  began  once  more, 
after  a  heavy  rain ;  coolness  and  comfort  re- 
turned, and  ten  knots  were  easily  made.  A  high 
gray  sea  was  running,  though  the  water  still 
showed  a  temperature  of  80°  F.  Then  a  rollick- 
ing blue  morning  with  sparkling  white-caps,  and 
everything  was  natural  again. 

Sextants  and  other  nautical  instruments 
abounded  to  an  unusual  degree,  and  observations 
were  not  confined  either  to  Captain  or  to  noon- 
day sights — but  Polaris,  Spica  and  Antares  were 
watched  at  night,  by  astronomer  as  well  as 
yachtsman.  Enough  solid  navigation  to  direct  a 
fleet  was  carried,  boxed  in  its  own  little  mahogany 
nests. 

Visitors  on  board  were  rarer  than  on  the  way 
to  Honolulu  ;  one  exquisite  little  creature  like  a 


136  CORONA    AND    CORONET 

poeticized  corona  was  caught, — a  delicate  blue 
centre  with  a  double  row  of  lighter  blue  encir- 
cling rays.  Twilights  once  more  grew  long. 

A  day  or  two  before  the  coast  of  Japan  should 
have  been  sighted,  flocks  of  birds  appeared,  the 
breeze  suddenly  increased  to  sixty  miles  an  hour, 
while  huge  gray  rollers  again  broke  all  over  the 
tossing  sea  in  sharp  white  foam.  Yet  the  wind 
was  in  an  opposite  quarter  from  its  -normal  direc- 
tion, if  indeed  this  disturbance  were  the  edge  of 
a  typhoon  sweeping  up  the  coast.  Quick  orders 
for  lowering  sail  rang  out ;  in  the  confusion  of 
tramping  feet  above,  and  the  booming  wind,  all 
sorts  of  expressions  came  down  the  companion- 
way,  cut  into  bits  in  their  descent,  and  fraught 
with  mysterious  import.  "  Clew  up  your  top- 
sails," "  Let  go  your  throat,"  mingled  with  direc- 
tions about  the  lee  lift  and  the  main  sheets.  I 
listened  in  vain,  however,  for  my  favorite  order 
on  board,  "Jig  up  your  peak."  To-day's  crisis 
demanded  quite  the  opposite  of  "jigging  up" 
anything.  But  in  an  incredibly  short  time 
phrases  were  translated  into  an  accomplished 
shortening  of  all  sail.  Nothing  remained  but 
the  main  trysail  and  a  jib ;  it  rained  with  tropical 
lavishness,  and  once  more  we  were  "  hove  to  " 
near  the  coast  in  a  wild  swirl  of  waters. 

And  still  the  Pacific  had  retrieved  its  charac- 
ter. Since  1887  I  had  felt  it  entirely  misnamed; 


FOUR    WEEKS  A  T  SEA  137 

that  its  fog,  high  seas,  and  general  roughness  of 
demeanor  demanded  an  apology,  at  least  an  ex- 
planation, from  those  dead  and  gone  worthies 
who  saw  fit  to  call  it  Pacific.  But  probably  they 
had  not  sailed  a  great-circle  course  from  Vancou- 
ver, as  our  previous  expedition  did.  Now,  after 
traversing  its  enchanting  southern  water  spaces, 
with  day  after  day  of  shining  sea,  and  trade- 
winds,  with  no  necessity  for  racks  on  the  table  or 
"fences"  at  night  —  these  things  quite  obliter- 
ated all  memory  of  that  other  unfriendly  northern 
Pacific  which  in  1887  had  treated  the  old  Abys- 
sinia so  unceremoniously.  Except  for  a  day  or 
two,  this  voyage  had  been  a  tropical  harmony  in 
blue  and  gold. 

And  after  this  one  tempestuous  night,  the 
morning  dawned  fair  and  lovely,  but  greeted  no 
longer  by  a  sapphire  sea  to  reflect  the  brilliant 
sky.  The  Coronet  was  unmistakably  in  the  Ku- 
rosiiva,  the  "  black  current "  of  Japan  ;  the  water 
was  dark  green,  and  full  of  drifting  sea-weed. 

Before  sunset  of  that  bright  Sunday,  the 
twenty-first  of  June,  two  or  three  islands  ap- 
peared, —  Mikura,  Miaki,  and  Vries.  Then  the 
incomparable  cone  of  Fuji  lifted  itself  against 
the  sky  —  that  well  remembered  landmark  which 
was  our  last  sight  of  the  beautiful  land  nine  years 
before,  and  without  which  Japan  could  not  be 
Japan.  Faint  and  far  away,  but  unmistakable, 


138  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

and  as  fair  as  when,  the  morning  after  its  mirac- 
ulous creation,  this  "  new  born  child  of  the  gods  " 
caused  the  sailors  at  sea  to  rub  their  eyes  and 
wonder  if  it  were  the  Iwakura,  eternal  throne  of 
heaven,  come  down  to  rest  on  earth  out  of  the 
many  piled  white  clouds  above.  The  majestic 
cone  vouchsafed  royal  welcome,  though  less  clear 
than  at  his  gracious  dismissal. 

And  then  a  fishing-boat  or  two  appeared, — 
first  sign  of  human  life  other  than  our  own  in 
all  the  four  weeks'  wide  stretch  of  lonely  sea. 
As  darkness  came  on,  great  Fuji  melted  from 
sight,  and  here  and  there  torches  twinkled  un- 
steadily from  fishermen  setting  trawls.  The 
Captain  remained  on  deck  all  night,  and  his 
guests  went  below  with  mingled  sensations  of 
memory  and  anticipation. 


CHAPTER   XV 

JAPAN    REVISITED 

Thank  God  for  tea !     What  would  the  world  do  without  tea  !     How  did  it 
exist  ?    I  am  glad  I  was  not  born  before  tea. 

SYDNEY  SMITH,  Memoir,  i.  383. 

DANGER  of  disenchantment  lurks  about  a  re- 
turn to  distant  lands  whose  memory  has  been  for 
years  enshrouded  in  rosy  atmosphere.  The  halo 
idealizing  our  recollections  down  the  vista  of 
years  may  dissipate  into  nothingness  once  the 
actual  comes  again  in  sight. 

Will  the  air  be  as  sweet  as  in  those  dreamy 
retrospects  ?  Will  the  beauty  be  as  all-pervasive, 
the  charm  as  haunting  ?  All  the  mistily  bright 
June  morning  when  the  Coronet  was  beating  up 
Yeddo  Bay  between  green  shores  on  either  side, 
this  unspoken  wonder  seemed  to  hover  half- 
unconsciously  in  the  sunny  air. 

For  nine  years  the  name  of  Japan  had  recalled 
pictures  of  dainty  little  women  thronging  its 
streets  in  bright  dresses  and  gay  parasols,  and  of 
shops  full  of  fine  old  swords  and  other  relics 
of  samurai  days,  sold  for  a  trifle,  as  being 
of  no  farther  practical  value  in  the  modern  life 
then  beginning  to  overwhelm  the  beautiful  land. 


140 '  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Memories,  too,  of  jinrikisha  rides  through  quaint 
streets,  when  the  coolies  pulling  the  fascinating 
little  carriages  had  known  scarcely  a  word  of 
English,  and  were  more  than  satisfied  with  ten 
sen  an  hour  for  their  exertions,  and  of  night 
rides  when  the  shops  and  open  booths  were 
lighted  by  flaring  torches,  and  foot  travelers  and 
jinrikisha  bore  their  own  painted  lanterns  swing- 
ing in  the  soft  darkness ;  of  happy  babies 
strapped  on  the  backs  of  sisters  or  mothers,  to 
spend  long  days  in  utter  content  which  excluded 
even  the  knowledge  of  how  to  cry  —  all  these 
thoughts  of  years,  and  countless  others,  were 
concentrated  in  one  bewildering  mental  retro- 
spect, as  we  sailed  once  more  up  the  lovely  bay, 
in  the  era  of  Meiji  29. 

Familiar  places  came  into  view  one  after  an- 
other, the  sharp  promontory  guarding  Mississippi 
Bay,  then  the  houses  on  the  Bluff  nearly  hidden 
in  verdure ;  farther  on  the  mercantile  parts  of 
Yokohama,  and  the  Bund  with  straggling  pines 
on  the  water-side,  low  houses  facing  the  bay  be- 
hind verandas  and  garden-walls  on  the  other; 
great  Fuji  dimly  brooding  over  all,  unchanged 
against  the  sky,  —  and  we  were  once  more  cast- 
ing anchor  among  the  men-of-war  of  all  nations, 
inside  the  superb  new  breakwater. 

A  few  years  ago  no-  barrier  had  raised  itself 
against  the  tempestuous  seas  which  almost  at  a 


JAPAN  REVISITED  141 

moment's  notice  often  turned  the  harbor  into  a 
boiling,  seething  mass  of  tossing  waves ;  when  it 
was  impossible  to  induce  sampan  or  even  steam- 
launch  to  take  one  out  from  shore,  even  if  an 
already  promised  tiffin  or  dinner  on  one  of  the 
men-of-war  were  involved.  Now  the  harbor  is  a 
safe  and  quiet  anchorage. 

Before  the  Coronet  actually  came  to  rest  a 
dozen  sampans  had  surrounded  her,  their  wooden 
anchors  lying  in  the  bow  as  of  old,  and  propelled 
in  the  familiar  way  by  one  huge  oar  at  the  stern, 
but  no  longer  wielded  by  what  had  once  appeared 
animated  bronze  statues.  Instead,  all  were  de- 
corously clothed  in  dark  blue  cotton  garments,  or 
attempts  at  European  array,  although  the  big, 
picturesque  hats  still  prevailed. 

But  English  was  actually  spoken  by  the  men 
who  held  up  cheap  porcelain  and  coarse  cloi- 
sonne" for  sale  from  the  native  boats  gathered 
about.  Rather  imperfect,  but  generally  definite 
"American,"  it  was  still  successful  as  to  import. 
The  only  chance  for  that  class  of  wares  with  for- 
eigners is  immediately  upon  arrival,  when  every- 
thing seems  beautiful.  The  discriminating  fac- 
ulty of  the  traveler  soon  comes  to  the  front,  and 
he  speedily  becomes  critical  in  all  matters  of 
Japanese  art. 

Rather  surprised,  even  their  savoirfaire  some- 
what upset  by  the  few  sentences  in  their  own 


142  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

tongue  tossed  over  to  them,  relative  to  price  and 
quality  of  their  wares,  these  light-hearted  ven- 
dors of  unattractive  articles  paddled  away ;  and 
hotel-runners,  provision  dealers,  laundry-men,  and 
every  variety  of  tradesman  clamored  in  their 
stead.  But  quarter-masters  and  stewards  kept 
the  yacht  decks  free  from  the  amphibious  host. 

Reporters  were  by  no  means  left  behind  on 
the  American  shore.  Delightful  little  gentle- 
men, some  in  kimono  and  obi,  English  boots  and 
Derby  hat ;  some  in  paper  or  celluloid  collars, 
crowning  elegance  of  a  limp  suit  of  pongee  silk, 
or  seersucker  ;  others  in  the  beautiful  native  dress 
unadulterated,  —  all  were  still  the  same  deeply 
bowing,  smiling,  spectacled,  courteous  class  we 
remembered.  One  of  these  gentlemen  prepared 
for  his  shimbun  (newspaper)  a  serial  upon  the 
expedition  and  its  adventures  which  ran  through 
four  numbers.  And  another  came  on  board 
with  the  startling  announcement,  very  calmly 
made,  that  he  had  "come  to  take  the  life  of 
chief  of  expedition  —  for  Japanese  news-paper." 

Remarkable  disturbances  of  nature  seemed  to 
accompany  the  Amherst  Eclipse  Expedition 
upon  its  travels,  and  the  first  news  heard  by  the 
voyagers,  quite  starved  for  information  as  to 
what  had  been  happening  to  any  of  the  earth's 
inhabitants  during  the  last  month,  was  intelli- 
gence of  a  terrible  misfortune  in  northern  dis- 


JAPAN  REVISITED  143 

tricts  of  the  main  island.  It  was  learned  that  an 
enormous  tidal  wave  had  within  a  few  days  de- 
vastated more  than  thirty  towns,  washing  away 
nearly  six  thousand  houses,  and  destroying  be- 
tween thirty  and  forty  thousand  persons.  Since 
the  great  earthquake  in  which  Yeddo  (now 
Tokyo)  was  nearly  swallowed  up,  forty  years  ago, 
Japan  has  had  no  such  calamity,  not  even  the 
Bandaisan  eruption  of  1888,  or  the  Nagoya 
earthquake  of  1892. 

Detailed  accounts  of  this  appalling  disaster 
were  still  hard  to  obtain,  for  the  few  survivors  in 
the  devasted  districts  were  too  dazed  to  give 
clear  descriptions  of  the  horror  which  befell 
them.  But  it  was  known  that  a  seismic  wave, 
some  persons  declared  one  hundred  feet  in 
height,  the  majority  uniting  upon  an  altitude  of 
about  eighty  feet,  swept  across  the  land  with 
irresistible  force.  Along  a  coast  line  of  one 
hundred  and  seventy-five  miles  in  one  province 
alone,  the  seaboard  of  three  districts  was  over- 
whelmed,—  Miyagi,  Iwate,  and  Aomori,  extend- 
ing from  Hachinoye  on  the  north  to  Kinkasan, 
an  island  at  the  mouth  of  the  bay  of  Sendai,  on 
the  south.  Several  shocks  of  earthquake  were 
felt  during  the  few  hours  preceding,  and  shortly 
before  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  of  the  I5th  of 
June  a  terrifying  noise  was  heard,  like  the  boom 
of  gigantic  artillery,  —  the  simultaneous  firing  of 


144  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

hundreds  of  cannon ;  a  black  wall  of  water  was 
seen  advancing  from  the  ocean  with  fearful  speed, 
and  in  less  than  two  minutes  whole  towns  were 
swept  away  and  thousands  of  human  beings  per- 
ished in  the  onward  rush  of  this  watery  monster, 
and  there  were  not  survivors  enough  within 
reach  to  bury  the  dead  who  had  not  been  sucked 
out  to  sea  by  the  retreating  tide. 

Their  Imperial  Majesties,  the  Emperor  and 
Empress,  came  at  once  and  nobly  to  the  rescue, 
the  Mitsui  family  contributed  scarcely  less,  and 
the  Tokyo  journals  opened  subscriptions  for  relief 
of  starving  survivors,  the  "Jiji"  collecting  in  a 
few  days  over  ten  thousand  yen,  and  the  "  Nichi- 
Nichi"  more  than  eight  thousand,  while  the 
Iwate  branch  of  the  Japan  Red  Cross  Society 
established  temporary  hospitals  among  the  suf- 
fering people.  The  number  of  victims  was  at 
first  greatly  underrated 

All  the  habits,  even  the  methods  of  thought, 
return  in  plunging  once  more  into  a  land  as  dis- 
tinctly foreign  as  Japan,  and  even  in  Yokohama, 
where  strangers  from  other  countries  most 
abound,  the  native  atmosphere  is  hardly  adulter- 
ated enough  to  change  the  general  effect.  The 
sunlight,  the  tints  and  odors  of  years  before, 
were  unaltered.  Even  jinrikisha  riding  had  lost 
none  of  its  charm,  even  if  the  runners,  now 
speaking  considerable  English,  did  show  a  grow- 


JAPAN  REVISITED  145 

ing  affinity  for  their  far-away  fraternity,  the  cab- 
men of  American  cities,  in  demanding  whatever 
they  could  get  for  fares. 

The  effort  to  adapt  manners  and  customs  to 
an  imported  standard,  redoubled  since  the  bril- 
liant termination  of  their  war  with  China,  was 
everywhere  apparent. 

Many  signs  are  displayed  in  our  own  familiar 
letters,  instead  of  the  picturesque  floating  strips 
of  dark  blue  cotton  with  their  decorative  ideo- 
graphs in  white.  Still,  these  are  not  super- 
seded, even  in  Yokohama,  and  the  streets  are 
like  one  long  holiday  parade,  —  they  actually 
throb  with  mysterious  vitality,  the  ideographs 
quiver  with  meaning ;  a  vivid  picture  comes  be- 
fore the  mind  with  each  character  floating  in  the 
wind.  To  a  Japanese  "  it  lives,  it  speaks,  it  gesti- 
culates." 

Art  is  in  the  air,  until  suddenly  one  comes 
across  an  English  sign,  perhaps  after  this  style : 
"Dealer  in  of  fan  circular  fan  umbrella." 

A  fierce  and  sturdy-looking  individual  in 
abundant  whiskers  and  Americanized  dress 
stands  painted  guard  over  one  shop,  with  a  high 
boot  on  one  leg,  a  shoe  on  the  other  foot.  This 
not  being  quite  definite  enough,  the  legend  runs 
"  Shoe  to  make  to  form." 

"Watch  and  gold  silverware  belonging"  was 
quite  clear,  also  "Drinks  and  courserues." 


146  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

A  well-known  dealer  in  curios  advertises  "  Our 
shop  is  best  and  obliging  worker  that  have  every- 
body known,  .  .  .  We  can  works  how  much  diffi- 
cult Job  with  lowest  price  insure,  please  try, 
once  try  don't  forget  name  Whisky."  Posses- 
sives  and  plurals,  in  truth  small  matters,  are  con- 
sidered rather  too  trivial  for  use.  Possessives, 
indeed,  become  expensive  if  one  is  telegraphing 
in  English,  each  adding  several  sen  to  the  sum 
total  of  charges. 

"  Wholesale  and  retail  seller  shop,"  and 
"  Landing,  shipping  customs  goods  forwarded  to 
parts "  were  easy  to  comprehend,  as  well  as 
"Transportation  of  several  goods  and  baggages 
of  steamboat  and  railroad,"  and  "  Wine  beer 
and  other."  But  "Do  you  love  your  life  or 
rather"  was  more  of  a  conundrum.  An  odd 
combination  profession  seemed  to  be  implied  in 
"Portrait  painter  and  dealer  in  Manila  cigars," 
while  another  shopkeeper  announced  above  his 
entrance  "glass  and  lumps"  as  his  stock  in 
trade.  A  sign  of  rather  startling  import  as- 
serted that  within  might  be  found  "  Lamb, 
corpses  and  provisions  in  seasonable  rates."  But 
we  purchased  our  chops  elsewhere.  A  collection 
of  foreign  signs  during  this  transition  period  of 
Japanese  advancement  would  show  new  possibili- 
ties in  the  English  language. 

Within  the  shops  more  articles  were  obviously 


JAPAN  REVISITED  147 

made  for  travelers  from  other  lands, — sure  be- 
ginning of  art  degeneration  in  any  country. 

Time  had  stolen  little  in  nine  years  from  the 
two  famous  sisters  Tanabe-san  and  Kin-san. 
Once  beautiful  as  well  as  fascinating,  they  still 
remain  exceedingly  attractive.  Their  uncle,  in 
power  in  the  province  or  ken  in  1859,  signed  the 
articles  of  treaty  with  Commodore  Perry,  and 
the  two  charming  women  have  always  lived  in  an 
atmosphere  of  the  world  at  large,  while  yet  pre- 
serving the  dainty  sweetness  of  their  race.  Ac- 
quaintance with  them  is  a  definite,  integral  part 
of  Japanese  experience ;  both  sisters  speak  no 
less  easily  in  French,  German,  and  even  Russian, 
than  in  the  English  which  they  use  so  prettily, 
and  the  little  silk-shop  where  embroideries  may 
be  bought  accompanied  by  gentle  compliments  in 
English,  manners  to  credit  the  graceful  regime 
of  old,  and  pale  yellow  tea  of  delectable  flavor, 
was  still  pleasant  meeting-ground  for  many  na- 
tionalities. 

In  the  celebrated  tea  house  at  the  top  of  the 
Hundred  Steps,  Kin-san  preserves  many  me- 
mentos of  her  ancestors  and  Commodore  Perry, 
as  well  as  an  interesting  guest  book,  in  which 
may  be  found  the  cards  of  hundreds  of  travelers 
of  distinction  visiting  Japan  during  twenty  years. 
Here  Kin-san  dispenses  cosmopolitan  hospital- 
ity, filtered  through  customary  Japanese  forms, 


148  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

and  Yokohama  will  lose  one  of  its  great  delights 
when  she  ceases  to  serve  tea  and  sweetmeats 
from  her  lofty  veranda  at  Fujita,  almost  over- 
hanging the  gray  tiled  roofs  of  the  city  far  be- 
low; and  when  her  soft  voice  shall  no  longer 
accompany  her  elaborate  playing  on  koto  and 
samisen. 

One  of  the  most  picturesque  spots  in  Yoko- 
hama, Fujita  is  reached  either  by  literally  toiling 
up  a  hundred  steps  from  the  street  below,  where 
the  kurumaya,  trusting  foreign  ignorance  of 
locality,  will  basely  leave  a  confiding  fare  if  he 
can  be  so  imposed  upon ;  or  by  a  winding  road 
ascending  in  easy  stages  to  the  rear  of  the  tea- 
house. At  night  the  view  is  a  sea  of  twinkling 
lights  below.  Foreigners  have  always  played 
a  large  part  in  the  experience  of  both  these 
dainty  women,  whom  necessity  compelled  to 
transact  business  for  themselves  ;  and  without 
ever  leaving  Japan  they  have  seen  the  world  in 
very  attractive  guise. 

Certain  distinctive  habits  have  by  no  means 
been  outgrown  in  all  the  incoming  rush  of 
modern  ways.  In  making  kimono,  for  instance, 
different  sorts  of  stitches  having  reference  to  the 
prospective  wearer  were  still  used,  a  system  per- 
haps a  little  less  elaborate  than  the  Morse  tele- 
graphic code.  A  long  and  two  short  stitches, 
one  short  and  two  long  —  these  combined  in  a 


JAPAN  REVISITED  149 

variety  of  ways  indicate  that  the  garment  is  for 
a  man,  or  a  married  woman,  a  young  girl,  or  a 
child,  or  perhaps  for  a  girl  about  to  be  married. 

And  still  the  pleasant  life  of  foreign  residents 
went  on  much  as  it  had  years  before,  open 
port  life  showing  fewer  changes  than  more 
purely  native  places.  Our  old  friend,  consul- 
general  in  1887,  during  the  first  Cleveland  ad- 
ministration, was  no  longer  there,  but  instead  in 
Korea.  Others,  however,  were  still  at  hand  to 
give  friendly  and  well-remembered  greeting  ;  and 
among  the  officers  of  the  men-of-war  there  were, 
as  always,  many  acquaintances. 

The  Coronet's  next  neighbor  in  harbor  was 
the  Olympia,  flag-ship  of  our  Asiatic  squadron, 
now  more  famous  from  the  great  Manila  victory. 
The  Detroit  lay  peacefully  near  by,  and  the 
French  cruiser  L'Alger,  while  English  men-of- 
war  and  even  a  Mexican  brightened  the  bay, 
with  a  number  of  Japanese  merchant  and  naval 
vessels.  Several  small  yachts  skimmed  lightly 
about,  or  lay  at  anchor  near  the  Bund,  and  daily 
in  landing  we  passed  a  schooner  yacht  but  just 
returned  from  the  South  Sea  Islands.  A  pretty 
craft,  apparently  manned  by  one  huge  Fiji  Is- 
lander, she  took  little  part  in  the  gay  harbor  life 
flashing  around  her  on  all  sides. 

At  sea  one  is  never  allowed  to  forget  the  pas- 
sage of  time,  for  two,  four,  eight  bells  are  always 


150  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

sounding,  the  hours  and  half  hours  chasing  each 
other  in  a  mad  rush  for  eternity  ;  here  in  harbor 
there  was  little  danger  of  wondering  what  real 
time  actually  might  be,  although  each  nation, 
and  almost  each  vessel  seemed  to  have  its  own 
notion  of  when  the  bells  should  be  struck.  Only 
a  few  seconds  apart,  they  formed  a  pleasant  chim- 
ing all  over  the  bay,  clear  and  loud,  or  soft  and 
distant,  echoing  from  one  to  the  other  in  melodi- 
ous iteration. 

At  colors  every  morning  a  fine  concert  from 
the  Olympia  always  greeted  us.  When  all  the 
ensigns  and  pennants  slowly  ascended  into  place 
at  eight  o'clock,  and  as  our  company,  if  on  deck 
so  soon,  stood  with  bared  heads  while  the  Coro- 
net's stars  and  stripes  went  up,  the  flagship  band 
played  America ;  then  the  Japanese  national 
air,  —  a  curiously  characteristic  melody,  —  fol- 
lowed sometimes  by  the  national  anthems  of  the 
other  countries  represented  by  the  men-of-war 
lying  in  harbor,  and  ending  always  with  Nancy 
Lee,  in  pleasant  compliment  to  their  little  neigh- 
bor the  Coronet,  whose  especial  song  it  is.  There 
were  bands,  too,  on  some  of  the  other  men-of-war, 
and  bugles  playing  familiar  calls.  Talking  from 
one  to  the  other  by  day  with  different  signal  flags 
gayly  floating  in  summer  breezes,  and  evening 
conversations  by  flashing  colored  electric  lights, 
made  harbor  life  vivid  and  picturesque. 


JAPAN  REVISITED  151 

Naval  hospitalities  flowed  in  upon  us,  —  a  tiffin 
by  the  Admiral,  dinners  by  the  Ward  Room  offi- 
cers, dances,  teas ;  while  the  pretty  Coronet 
held  her  own  bravely  in  the  exchange  of  social 
courtesies  ;  and  on  shore  were  no  fewer  festive 
occasions. 

One  memorable  evening  ceremonial  tea,  cha- 
no-you,  was  served  for  our  benefit. 

In  all  the  modern  rush  of  nineteenth-century 
life,  beautiful  old  customs  will  be  in  danger  of 
dying  out,  or  at  least  of  being  pushed  from 
sight.  On  the  previous  visit  so  many  more  of 
the  purely  historic,  hereditary  and  traditional 
forms  were  practiced  than  seemed  available  this 
time,  that  it  was  a  delight  to  see  once  more  the 
elaborate  tea-ceremony  in  all  its  solemn  impres- 
siveness. 

Young  girls  are  trained  a  long  time  for  presid- 
ing at  this  function,  and  every  motion  is  ad- 
justed in  accordance  with  deeply  philosophical 
and  ancient  usage.  The  ceremony  itself  and 
its  underlying  principles  have  been  so  often  and 
minutely  described  that  I  shall  but  refer  super- 
ficially to  the  features  which  were  most  apparent 
to  the  Coronet  company,  sitting  in  a  circle  on  the 
floor  in  waiting  silence.  The  tea  itself  is  a 
choice  and  very  fine  green  powder,  every  imple- 
ment old  and  valuable,  heirlooms  if  possible,  and 
kept  especially  for  these  occasions. 


152  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

When  a  cup  of  this  exceedingly  delicious  bev- 
erage is  set  before  the  guests,  in  order  of  their 
rank,  each  lifts  it  slowly  to  his  forehead,  after 
bowing  low,  turns  it  ninety  degrees  counter-clock- 
wise, and  drinks  it  with  deliberation,  so  regulating 
his  sips  that  three  and  one-half  will  just  exhaust 
the  contents  of  the  cup,  the  last  being  taken 
with  a  slight  indrawn  hiss  to  express  intensity  of 
appreciation  and  pleasure.  Between  sips  the  cup 
is  gracefully  shaken,  also  in  a  particular  way,  to 
stir  the  powder  at  the  bottom.  The  finger 
should  wipe  the  edge  of  the  cup  where  one's  lips 
have  touched  it,  the  finger  itself  wiped  upon  a 
little  piece  of  soft,  once-folded  paper  already  laid 
upon  the  mat.  Another  piece,  folded  in  a  point, 
holds  a  sweetmeat  afterward  to  be  taken  home. 
Later,  the  tea-caddy  with  its  fragrant  green 
powder  is  passed  from  one  to  another,  for  ad- 
miring scrutiny,  also  expressed  in  a  special  man- 
ner; as  well  as  the  long-handled  ivory  spoon 
with  which  the  powder  is  transferred  to  the  tea- 
pot. It  is  all  very  slow  and  stately  and  cultured. 

"  Well,"  remarked  one  of  the  guests,  straight- 
ening his  American  back  as  he  emerged  from  the 
dainty  dwelling,  and  started  for  the  Bund,  "  It 
does  n't  take  long  to  stay  a  good  while  some- 
times." 

But  truly  lovely  was  the  return  to  all  the 
grace  and  culture,  the  exquisite  breeding,  the 


JAPAN  REVISITED  153 

constant  thought  for  the  happiness  of  others  — 
the  artistic  life  of  Japan.  Even  sitting  on  the 
floor  has  its  glamour,  if  one  takes  the  right  men- 
tal as  well  as  physical  attitude,  and  the  genial 
sweetness  of  the  entire  country  is  so  pervasive 
that  the  best  of  one's  nature  expands  unfailingly 
in  its  sunny  atmosphere. 

Japan  is  changing;  and  noticeably  ;  but  Chi- 
nese compradores  continue  to  walk  unsmilingly 
through  the  streets  in  quiet  majesty,  and  many 
years  must  pass  before  expressions  of  the  na- 
tional spirit  will  fall  naturally  into  the  common- 
place ruts  of  other  civilizations.  The  past  had 
perhaps  been  canonized,  and  the  present  was 
different,  but  there  was  no  disenchantment.  The 
old-time  charm  exerted  its  spell  as  before,  al- 
though a  few  babies  were  heard  crying  with  truly 
western  vehemence,  evidently  the  result  of  for- 
eign influence,  and  at  a  delightful  tea-house 
entertainment  one  evening  no  painted  lanterns 
swung  in  the  breeze,  but  electric  lights  flashed 
forth  from  a  bronze  chandelier. 

Tidal  waves  destroying  lives  and  temples  and 
monuments  in  Japan  are  not  a  modern  innova- 
tion. From  earliest  times  the  country  has  been 
occasionally  overwhelmed  by  various  forms  of 
destruction.  Floods  swell  the  rivers,  wash  out 
railroads  and  drown  rice  -  fields ;  earthquakes 
wreck  whole  towns,  volcanoes  bury  provinces. 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


Yet  always  energetic,  hopeful,  aspiring,  the  Japa- 
nese take  fresh  courage  from  misfortune  and 
rise  to  renewed  power  and  mastery  in  the  life  of 
the  far  East. 

The  brilliantly  successful  issue  of  the  war 
with  China  has  given  the  Japanese  new  faith  in 
themselves,  and  the  spirit  of  modern  progress  is 
abroad  in  the  land.  As  a  nation  they  will  ulti- 
mately incorporate  whatever  is  best  in  our  civili- 
zation with  their  traditions,  hoary  with  centuries, 
beside  which  the  short  history  of  America 
seems  but  an  episode.  If  only  they  are  far-see- 
ing enough  to  retain  what  is  best  and  most 
characteristic  in  their  own  civilization  as  well, 
the  combination  will  make  a  country  of  modern 
enterprise,  coupled  with  the  artistic  bequest  of 
ages,  which  the  world  has  never  seen. 


JAPANESE   NATIONAL  AIR 


Largo. 
'  =  69. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

DEPARTURE  OF  THE  EXPEDITION 

In  this  world,  where  civilization  grows  at  the  expense  of  the  picturesque, 
it  is  something  to  see  a  culture  that  knows  how  least  to  mar. 

PKRCIVAL  LOWELL. 

Tell  us  of  thy  food,  —  those  half -marine  refections, 
Crinoids  on  the  shell,  and  Brachiopods  au  nature  I! 

BRET  HARTE. 

YOKOHAMA'S  native  quarter  was  still  like  some 
animated  fan  or  screen.  Wooden  clogs  (geta) 
clicked  well  -  remembered  music,  and  the  little 
teapot  ladies  of  the  thoroughfares  made  no  visi- 
ble attempts  to  sport  in  European  dress.  That 
fad  seemed  to  have  died  a  natural  death,  and 
attractiveness  in  street  scenes  is  apparently  as- 
sured. The  pretty  kimono  were  out  in  full  force, 
with  all  their  bright  colorings,  the  flowing  sleeves 
doing  service  as  capacious  pockets  for  paper  hand- 
kerchiefs. Young  girls  in  scarlet  underskirts  still 
clattered  along  with  tiny,  black -eyed  brothers 
swinging  on  their  backs  ;  gay  sashes  (obi)  and 
elaborately  dressed  hair  gleamed  in  the  sun,  and 
bridges  with  their  crowded  passers  were  more 
picturesque  than  a  picture.  And  however  poor 
or  low  in  caste  a  Japanese  woman  may  be,  she 


156  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

seems  never  too  ignorant  to  keep  her  hair  smooth 
and  shining  as  a  matter  of  course.  One  meets  no 
fuzzy,  rough-haired  girls,  in  any  quarter.  Unhap- 
pily the  pretty  little  women  had  abjured  the  gay, 
many-ribbed  parasols,  appearing  in  their  jinrikisha 
sedately  shaded  by  black  silk  umbrellas  of  very 
ordinary  shape.  But  children  still  flourished  the 
brilliant  paper  ones. 

The  Astronomer  was  at  once  busy  with 
Government  officials,  with  the  Imperial  Weather 
Bureau,  and  with  our  own  representatives  at  the 
Legation,  and  very  soon  the  station  for  observing 
the  eclipse  had  been  selected. 

A  new  system  of  meteorological  observations 
made  before  an  eclipse  and  with  special  refer- 
ence to  it  was  inaugurated  by  Professor  Todd  in 
1890,  for  that  of  1893.  Taking  the  exact  track 
as  soon  as  published  in  the  Nautical  Almanac, 
and  having  careful  observations  made  at  the  best 
and  most  accessible  points,  gave  excellent  re- 
sults on  that  occasion.  As  the  Ephemeris  is 
issued  about  four  years  in  advance,  this  insures 
three  complete  series  before  an  eclipse.  Noting 
the  general  meteorological  conditions  of  the 
heavens  is  not  sufficient,  for  the  sun  is  in  a  par- 
ticular part  of  the  sky  at  a  given  hour,  so  that 
the  observations  must  be  of  special  character, 
and  with  distinct  reference  to  the  position  of  the 
sun,  season  of  the  year,  and  hour  of  the  day 


DEPARTURE   OF  THE  EXPEDITION         157 

when  the  eclipse  takes  place.  The  tabulation  of 
this  information  assists  greatly  in  selecting  the 
best  stations  for  eclipse-observation,  and  those 
who  followed  the  indications  as  to  clearness  of 
sky  in  1893  achieved  the  best  results. 

In  that  year  Professor  Todd  wrote  to  the  Di- 
rector of  the  Imperial  Japanese  Weather  Ser- 
vice, requesting  observations  at  different  points 
in  the  Hokkaido,  and  his  suggestions  were  car- 
ried out  in  every  particular.  Professor  Naka- 
mura,  of  the  Central  Meteorological  Observatory 
at  Tokyo,  had  printed  and  distributed  to  the  dif- 
ferent legations  a  pamphlet  for  the  information 
of  eclipse  students,  containing  not  only  all  the 
observations  referred  to,  but  a  sufficiently  minute 
discussion  of  them  to  enable  all  the  astronomers 
to  weigh  most  intelligently  the  probable  chances 
of  clear  skies  at  every  available  point  in  the  path 
of  totality.  The  establishment  of  any  station 
is  thus  made  with  full  knowledge  of  whether  it 
is  best  or  worst  in  probable  clearness ;  and  if 
obliged  to  plant  himself  in  some  less  hopeful 
location,  the  intending  observer  takes  his  own 
risk,  with  eyes  wide  open  to  the  law  of  probabili- 
ties. 

The  three  provinces  of  Yezo  in  which  the 
shadow  fell  were  Kushiro,  Kitami,  and  Nemuro, 
each  containing  several  towns,  most  of  them 
small  and  but  little  known  to  foreigners.  Dur- 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


ing  1893,  1894,  and  1895,  tri-daily  observations 
were  made  from  July  25  to  August  25  at  two 
o'clock,  half  after  two,  and  three  o'clock,  at  a 
number  of  these  villages  in  the  eclipse  track,  the 
results  being  carefully  collated  in  comparative 
tables.  From  the  percentage  of  cloud  at  the  ob- 
servation hour  itself,  Akkeshi,  on  the  southeast 
coast,  came  first  in  probabilities  of  clearness,  and 
Esashi,  on  the  northeast  coast,  second  ;  but  from 
the  point  of  its  constancy  thirty  minutes  before 
and  after  the  eclipse,  Esashi  presided  over  all 
the  others,  as  shown  by  the  full  tables  given  for 
thirty-two  days  at  seven  towns. 

The  selection  of  a  station  always  involves 
much  care  and  forethought,  and  responsibility 
enough  to  whiten  the  hair  of  any  one  except 
a  philosophic  astronomer,  accustomed  to  take 
chances  with  nature.  The  probabilities  at  Esa- 
shi were  considerably  more  than  half  in  favor  of 
clearness,  and  after  studying  the  reports  and 
tables  carefully  and  consulting  with  the  meteor- 
ologists, the  Professor  finally  selected  that  point 
as  his  observing  station,  although  it  is  farther 
and  more  difficult  of  access  than  Akkeshi,  of 
which  he  had  thought  before  our  arrival  in  Japan 
as  a  probable  location. 

And  so  Esashi,  eleven  hundred  miles  north  of 
Yokohama,  became  the  scientific  Mecca  toward 
which  these  pilgrims  would  wend  their  way,  — a 


TOTAL  SOLAR  ECLIPSE 


Longitude    East    from    Greenwich 


DEPARTURE   OF  THE  EXPEDITION         159 

region  so  remote  that  native  steamers  had  but 
recently  begun  to  go  there  at  all,  and  that  in- 
frequently ;  a  village  on  the  shores  of  the  Sea 
of  Okhotsk,  among  the  hairy  Ainu,  the  aborigines 
of  Japan,  cut  off  by  many  hundred  miles  of  im- 
passable forest  and  mountain  from  even  Sapporo 
and  Hakodate.  At  least  the  prospect  for  unusual 
experiences  looked  hopeful. 

The  distance  of  Esashi  in  Kitami  from  Yoko- 
hama, and  the  sort  of  coasting  voyage  necessary 
to  reach  it,  put  out  of  question  all  possibility  of 
sailing  there  in  the  Coronet ;  so  it  was  planned 
that  she  should  convey  the  unscientific  contin- 
gent southward  to  Kobe  instead,  making  after- 
ward a  trip  through  the  Inland  Sea. 

But  the  imperial  government  was  most  courte- 
ous to  the  expedition,  affording  every  facility  pos- 
sible, which  included,  with  truly  royal  generosity, 
requests  to  both  railroad  and  steamer  corpora- 
tions for  free  transportation  for  the  whole  party 
and  the  instruments  to  any  point  they  might 
select,  and  many  other  favors  which  greatly  en- 
hanced our  comfort  and  convenience. 

Official  matters  move  slowly  in  Japan,  and  our 
imposing  array  of  introductions  and  documents 
from  Washington  needed  time  for  fullest  avail- 
ability. The  Astronomer  wished,  if  possible,  to 
leave  Yokohama  not  later  than  the  first  of  July. 

The  interest  of  scientific  men  in  this  eclipse 


160  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

was  shown  by  the  large  number  assembled  for  its 
observation  —  French,  English,  American,  Jap- 
anese. France  was  represented  by  M.  Henri 
Deslandres,  then  of  the  Paris  Observatory,  accom- 
panied by  M.  Millochau  and  the  brothers  F.  and 
J.  Mittau.  He  also  chose  Esashi,  whither  the 
French  cruiser  L'Alger  was  soon  to  convey  him 
from  Yokohama  with  his  fine  equipment  of  spec- 
troscopes. Genuinely  modest  as  he  is,  Professor 
Deslandres  no  doubt  hoped  to  bring  back  from 
Kitami  wilds  some  solar  discovery  not  less  signi- 
ficant than  his  trophy  from  the  African  eclipse 
of  1 893,  —  the  rotation  of  the  corona  with  the 
Sun. 

Professor  Schaeberle,  head  of  the  Lick  Obser- 
vatory expedition,  stationed  himself  at  Akkeshi 
with  his  party,  consisting  of  Mr.  Burckhalter  of 
the  Chabot  Observatory  at  Oakland,  and  others. 
Professor  Terao,  Director  of  the  Tokyo  Observa- 
tory, chose  Esashi ;  and  the  Astronomer  Royal 
of  England,  Mr.  Christie,  with  Professor  Turner 
of  Oxford,  and  Captain  Hills,  of  the  Royal  Engi- 
neers, soon  arrived  by  a  Canadian  Pacific  steamer, 
and  proceeded  forthwith  to  Akkeshi,  in  Her  Maj- 
esty's ship  Volage.  But  a  few  days  remained 
before  our  own  expedition  would  depart  north- 
ward —  days  filled  with  hurry  of  preparation,  yet 
leaving  time  for  enjoyment  of  many  native  and 
foreign  courtesies. 


DEPARTURE   OF  THE  EXPEDITION         161 

A  certain  half-tropical,  gently  pungent  odor, 
not  precisely  that  of  flowers,  or  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion, incense  or  moist  atmosphere,  old  embroid- 
eries, or  the  culture  of  ages,  but  perhaps  all  of 
these  together,  and  more  powerful  to  awaken 
association  than  even  sight  or  sound,  haunts 
Japan  like  a  spiritual  aroma.  With  its  first 
dimly  suggestive  breath  the  nine  years'  chasm 
was  so  bridged  that  life  might  almost  have  gone 
on  ever  since  without  a  break,  in  this  dear, 
dreamy  lotus-land. 

An  old  friend,  and  graduate  of  the  college 
represented  by  the  expedition,  whose  father,  at 
one  time  highest  in  command  in  the  Imperial 
Navy  was  just  then  Governor  of  Formosa,  invited 
us  for  an  evening  of  Old  Japan  at  the  Maple 
Club  in  Tokyo.  A  resort  of  the  nobles,  fine  en- 
tertainments are  constantly  given  there,  under 
exquisitely  characteristic  conditions. 

Before  the  dinner,  which  began  about  six 
o'clock,  we  drove  with  our  friend  to  the  Imperial 
Gardens  by  the  sea,  — a  charming  spot,  not  acces- 
sible to  the  public,  and  laid  out  with  that  taste 
and  skill  peculiar  to  the  Japanese  landscape  gar- 
dener. Advantage  has  been  taken  of  its  situa- 
tion to  introduce  many  beautiful  water-ways  di- 
rectly from  the  bay.  When  these  winding  inlets 
are  to  be  crossed,  the  bridges  do  not  go  uncom- 
promisingly over  from  one  bank  to  the  other,  but 


1 62  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

abound  in  unexpected  corners  and  turns  and 
"jogs."  And  the  railings  are  not  of  plain,  square 
timber  held  together  by  heavy  nails ;  instead,  a 
light  and  graceful  bamboo  rail  —  its  fastenings 
of  fine  wrought  iron,  each  a  work  of  art  in  it- 
self. A  daintily  decorated  tea-house  awaited 
the  guests,  and  servants  in  livery  of  the  nobles 
explained,  and  guided  them  to  the  finest  points. 

Fish,  apparently  afflicted  with  hysterics,  leaped 
constantly  from  the  water,  often  two  or  three 
feet  above  its  surface.  Ingeniously  dwarfed 
trees  stood  here  and  there  ;  superb  forest  trees 
as  well,  while  delicate  maples,  with  their  seven- 
pointed  leaves,  cast  lovely  shade  in  the  summer 
day.  Finding  an  eight-lobed  maple  leaf  is  as  de- 
sirable as  a  four-leafed  clover  in  another  land. 

From  a  hill  was  gained  a  view  of  the  blue  bay 
with  its  fleet  of  square  sails  gathered  into  stripes 
after  the  old,  well-remembered  fashion. 

There  is  no  expectation  that  guests  will  not 
stroll  anywhere  over  the  fine  turf,  but  wherever 
these  wandering  footsteps  are  liable  to  converge 
—  as  perhaps  here  and  there  at  a  few  moss- 
grown  stone  steps  —  a  gravel  path  begins  sud- 
denly in  the  grass  before  the  steps  are  reached. 
Sometimes  but  a  short  bit  of  path  is  required, 
and  there  is  nowhere  that  appearance  of  unin- 
tentional footwearing  often  marring  constantly 
trodden  parts  of  lawn. 


DEPARTURE   OF  THE  EXPEDITION         163 

At  the  Maple  Club  entrance  a  bevy  of  pretty 
maids  welcomed  the  guests,  taking  their  shoes 
before  conducting  them  through  a  long  series  of 
polished  corridors  to  an  airy  room  open  on  two 
sides  to  an  elaborate  garden,  a  large  lotus-pond 
just  beyond,  and  great  Fuji  eighty  miles  away, 
against  the  brightness  of  a  sunset  pageant. 

Here  the  Countess,  mother  of  our  friend,  a 
sweet-faced  lady  in  gray  silk  kimono,  met  us  with 
warm  greeting,  though  herself  speaking  no  Eng- 
lish. Two  young  girls,  daintily  dressed  in  na- 
tive costume,  with  superb  obi,  also  bade  us  wel- 
come in  friendly  Japanese.  Their  melodious 
names  were  found,  upon  interpretation,  to  mean 
something  about  a  flower  and  the  shining  of  a 
red  star. 

Our  host,  who  had  been  married  since  his  re- 
turn to  Japan,  then  presented  his  small  daughter, 
brought  in  her  nurse's  arms  for  a  few  moments, 
a  gorgeous  baby  of  six  months  arrayed  in  magni- 
ficent gold  brocades  reaching  quite  to  the  floor, 
the  expression  upon  her  little  face  peculiarly  in- 
telligent and  high-bred.  One  could  hardly  have 
imagined  her  as  belonging  to  the  same  race  with 
the  chubby-cheeked,  fringe-haired  akambo  every- 
where seen  tossing  about  on  many  a  back. 

Among  the  guests  were  a  young  viscount,  also 
an  old  friend,  who  with  his  father  and  mother 
and  beautiful  sisters  had  on  our  former  visit  paid 


164  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

us  many  delightful  attentions,  not  the  least  of 
which  were  gifts  of  memorable  embroideries; 
and  a  professor  in  the  Imperial  University,  a 
graduate  of  Amherst,  to  whom  we  owed  many  a 
pleasant  memory  of  1887.  As  the  three  Japan- 
ese gentlemen  spoke  perfect  English,  social  inter- 
course was  but  slightly  restricted. 

Squares  of  royal  purple  silk  were  brought  in 
as  seats  upon  the  floor,  but  one  or  two  ottomans 
came  also,  lest  foreign  guests  should  weary  of 
the  enforced  position,  —  a  thoughtful  and  by  no 
means  superfluous  courtesy  to  some  of  the  com- 
pany, since  sitting  on  the  floor,  although  a  de- 
sirable and  graceful  accomplishment,  is  suppos- 
ably  one  not  easily  acquired.  Personally,  I  en- 
joy it  for  unlimited  hours. 

Seated  at  length  on  the  purple  squares,  with 
ottomans  in  reserve,  stealthy  shadows  crept  up 
to  the  bright  room  from  the  dusky  garden,  its 
paths  and  stone  lanterns  just  visible  in  light 
from  the  ashes  of  sunset,  while  tiny  cups  of  tea 
were  removed,  and  the  entertainment  began. 

Daintily  made  boxes  containing  sweetmeats 
were  placed  before  all  the  guests,  among  them 
the  Japanese  and  American  flags  shining  forth 
in  amicable  proximity  through  clear  yellow  jelly. 
Examined  and  admired,  they  were  set  aside  to  be 
taken  home  at  close  of  the  evening;  the  first 
course  of  the  dinner  following  at  once,  each  of 


DEPARTURE   OF  THE  EXPEDITION         165 

us  had  his  individual  table,  unsplit  chopsticks, 
and  pretty  waitress. 

Japanese  food  is  for  the  most  part  indescrib- 
able in  English  words  ;  many  of  the  twenty-seven 
articles  which  appeared  during  the  evening  were 
delicious  and  familiar  Japanese  dainties,  and 
using  chopsticks  is  a  quickly  learned  and  easily 
remembered  art,  but  for  certain  choice  and  highly 
prized  viands  a  severely  acquired  taste  is  requisite. 
In  addition  to  soup  and  cooked  fish,  hot  sake,  raw 
fish  with  pungent  sauce,  chopped  chicken,  dai- 
kon,  shell  fish  and  chrysanthemum  petals,  lily- 
bulbs  and  rice  rolled  in  rare  seaweeds,  there 
were  also  quail  and  French  claret,  lest,  as  our 
host  observed,  American  appetites  should  suf- 
fer in  the  midst  of  Japanese  plenty.  Between 
courses  the  sliding  paper  screens  shutting  off  the 
next  apartment  were  withdrawn,  and  several 
choice  plays  were  performed,  the  whole  enter- 
tainment lasting  from  six  o'clock  until  after 
eleven.  These  old  classic  plays  are  now  kept  up 
in  Japan  chiefly  by  actors  who  perform  them  for 
love,  and  their  own  satisfaction,  as  it  is  no  longer 
the  order  of  amusement  which  young  Japan  en- 
joys enough  to  assure  financial  success. 

When  the  screens  were  first  pushed  apart,  an 
archer  was  disclosed,  handsomely  dressed  in  the 
costume  of  old  feudal  days,  —  a  haughty  and  im- 
pressive nobleman,  engaged  in  stately  conversa- 


1 66 


tion  with  his  attendant,  also  in  fine  ancient 
dress.  Very  soon  a  man  of  lower  caste  entered, 
leading  a  monkey,  and  bowing  low  to  the  knight. 
After  a  few  moments  of  dialogue  the  attendant 
told  the  newcomer  it  would  be  necessary  for 
him  to  yield  whatever  his  lord  might  ask,  to 
which  the  man  readily  assented  ;  having  indeed 
no  choice  in  those  days  when  a  nobleman's  will 
was  law. 

The  knight,  fancying  the  monkey's  skin,  de- 
manded it  for  a  quiver  to  hold  his  arrows.  But 
that  request  almost  broke  the  man's  heart,  the 
monkey  having  been  his  nearest  companion  for 
years ;  he  protested  that  he  could  not  live  with- 
out his  little  friend.  A  well  acted  scene  fol- 
lowed in  which  the  monkey's  owner  ventured 
humbly  to  remonstrate,  telling  the  knight  how 
they  two  had  fared  together,  how  he  loved  the 
little  animal,  and  how  hard  it  would  be  to  kill 
him,  although  knowing  he  was  bound  by  his  pro- 
mise to  do  so  if  the  nobleman  persisted.  This 
was  all  so  dramatically  done  that  it  hardly 
needed  the  clever  running  translation  of  our 
friends,  —  the  story  told  itself  in  action ;  and 
when  the  man,  looking  tenderly  at  the  monkey, 
told  him  he  must  die,  that  even  he  could  not 
save  him,  the  little  creature  —  a  small  boy  in 
reality — turned  his  head  toward  his  master, 
looking  up  with  unaltered  confidence  and  love, 


DEPARTURE   OF  THE  EXPEDITION         167 

and  certainty  that  it  must  be  all  right  if  his  dear 
master  said  so ;  it  was  a  piece  of  acting  so 
pathetic  that  the  audience  was  greatly  moved, 
and  waited  breathlessly  for  the  end.  Finally  the 
knight's  heart  was  touched,  and  he  released  the 
poor  man  from  his  promise,  becoming  so  exhila- 
rated with  his  own  unexpected  generosity  that 
when  the  monkey  in  gratitude  began  to  exhibit 
some  of  his  choicest  tricks,  the  lord  was  moved 
to  vigorous  imitation  ;  and  the  play  (called  kyo- 
gen)  closed  with  a  series  of  cleverly  performed 
feats  of  agility.  Then  the  screens  were  once 
more  closed,  while  farther  courses  of  the  dinner 
progressed. 

The  usual  singing,  and  girls  playing  the  sami- 
sen,  went  on  at  intervals,  as  well  as  songs  by  old 
men ;  and  the  famous  no  dance  was  superbly 
performed  in  the  most  elegant  of  ancient  cos- 
tumes. 

Another  sort  of  dance,  in  stately  measure, 
called  gaisen,  followed,  by  three  girls  in  black  and 
gold,  a  celebration  of  certain  victories  in  the  late 
war.  Afterward  a  comedy  was  acted  between  an 
old  man  in  search  of  a  wife,  a  "matrimonial 
agent,"  and  a  veiled  female,  who  subsequently 
disclosed  a  hideous  face.  This  play  was  called 
fukitori,  or  choosing  a  wife  by  playing  the  flute. 

A  famous  juggler  was  next  introduced,  whose 
remarkable  feats  ended  by  producing  handfuls  of 


168  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

butterflies  from  nothing,  until  the  whole  room 
was  full  of  the  flutter  of  delicate  wings  ;  suddenly 
condensing,  apparently,  a  magnificent  white  cock 
stood  upon  the  magician's  hand,  and  surveyed 
the  company  loftily. 

Another  play,  later  in  the  evening,  related  to 
incidents  of  the  Chinese  war,  entertainingly  in- 
terpreted by  our  faithful  friends,  and  followed  by 
the  Maple  Club  dance,  a  graceful  performance 
in  which  all  the  beautiful  costumes  were  orna- 
mented with  designs  of  maple  leaves, — as  indeed 
everything  is  in  the  house  itself. 

The  closing  scene  was  charming  ;  several  pretty 
girls  were  scrubbing  white  linen,  and  beyond, 
a  background  of  attractive  landscape  showed 
yards  of  similar  linen  drying.  The  whole  thing 
finally  resolved  itself  into  a  dance  where  all  went 
through  a  variety  of  steps  and  evolutions  to- 
gether, flourishing  the  white  cloth  above  their 
heads,  twining  and  untwining  the  long  strips  in 
every  variety  of  lithe  posturing,  with  which  the 
most  ardent  pupil  of  Delsarte  could  not  compete. 

All  these  performers,  except  the  old  men  and 
the  classic  actors  in  the  first  piece,  were  girls  be- 
longing to  the  Maple  Club.  The  charm  of  these 
professional  entertainers,  even  in  much  simpler 
places  than  the  Maple  Club,  is  indescribable. 
But  where  everything  is  strictly  high  class,  the 
maidens  had  an  ineffable  touch  of  dainty  refine- 


DEPARTURE  OF  THE  EXPEDITION         169 

ment.  Late  in  the  evening,  dinner  and  enter- 
tainment having  lasted  over  five  hours,  Chinese 
tea,  water-ices,  and  lady-fingers  closed  the  repast, 
in  compliment  to  the  foreign  guests. 

Riding  away  amid  the  pretty  sayonara  of  the 
assembled  establishment,  our  feeling  of  regret 
was  most  genuine  that  the  stately,  courteous, 
slowly  moving  life  of  the  old  days  should  ever 
give  way  before  innovations  of  a  busy  modern 
civilization  which  all  too  soon  will  find  no  time 
for  ancient  customs.  It  is  pleasant  to  see  that 
the  calm  and  unhurried  politeness  which  causes 
acquaintances  meeting  on  the  street  to  stop  and 
slowly  bow  low  three  times  to  each  other  has  not 
yet  wholly  given  place  to  the  curt  nods  of  the 
Western  world,  —  all  that  the  rushing  life  of  an 
American  business  street  seems  willing  to  per- 
mit. Japanese  men  who  still  wear  the  graceful 
gray  silk  and  black  gauze  native  dress  seem  to 
preserve  intact  the  spirit  and  expression  of  old 
time  courtesy. 

European  costume  at  business  or  office  seems 
to  possess  a  curious  power  of  imposing  foreign 
manners  therewith ;  although  a  long  time  must 
elapse  before  inborn  graciousness  will  be  suffi- 
ciently lost  for  a  Japanese  to  be  mistaken  for  a 
veritable  foreigner. 

The  then  American  minister,  Mr.  Dun,  Sec- 
retary of  Legation  during  our  former  visit,  was 


1 70  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

absent  in  America,  but  the  Charge1  d' Affaires, 
Mr.  Herod,  with  his  charming  wife,  omitted  no- 
thing in  the  way  of  Legation  hospitality. 

Their  home,  filled  with  treasures  from  artistic 
corners  of  Tokyo,  undiscovered  by  the  tourist ; 
their  white-robed  native  servants  ;  windows  wide 
open  to  the  hot  night ;  punkah  wafting  welcome 
breezes  —  how  deliciously  familiar  and  weighted 
with  memory  was  the  scene  of  that  last  dinner 
before  the  expedition  departed  for  the  mysterious 
north  ! 

All  necessary  official  arrangements  made, — 
passports  issued,  apparatus  safely  stowed  and 
started  for  Hakodate  on  the  Sakura-maru,  —  the 
Astronomer,  with  the  Musician,  Chief,  and  their 
assistants,  among  them  the  second  mate  Andrew, 
the  Japanese  cook  and  his  staff,  also  set  forth  in 
the  same  direction  by  train,  with  all  lesser  para- 
phernalia for  science  as  well  as  enforced  house- 
keeping in  remote  Kitami  province.  The  pho- 
tographer, Mr.  Ogawa  (also  our  photographer 
during  the  former  Japan  eclipse  at  Shirakawa  in 
1887),  was  to  follow  within  a  few  days,  and  the 
interpreter  detailed  by  Government  would  join 
the  expedition  at  Sapporo. 

Passes  and  official  documents  insured  a  more 
than  obsequious  attention  from  all  railway  em- 
ployees, who  speedily  emptied  an  entire  first-class 
carriage  at  Tokyo  for  the  expedition,  all  of  whom 


DEPARTURE  OF  THE  EXPEDITION         171 

started  off  in  the  best  of  spirits  for  Aomori,  the 
northern  port  of  the  main  island.  Thence  a 
steamer  conveyed  them  across  the  strait  seventy 
miles  to  Hakodate,  on  the  southern  coast  of 
Yezo,  to  meet  the  Sakura-maru,  the  members  of 
the  expedition  joining  their  apparatus  on  board 
for  the  trip  to  Otaru  on  the  west  coast,  where 
the  special  steamer  Suruga  -  maru,  already  dis- 
patched, took  the  entire  party  for  the  long  voy- 
age to  Esashi. 


CHAPTER  XVII 

IN    FAMILIAR   HAUNTS 

Nobody  can  revisit  with  absolute  impuuity  a  place  once  loved  and  de- 
serted. 

THE  "  unscientific  contingent "  of  the  Coronet 
party  had  classified  themselves  boldly  ;  the  expe- 
dition members  proper  were  no  less  distinctly 
arrayed.  One  of  the  company,  however,  could 
not  be  absolutely  identified  with  either.  By 
no  means  learned  enough  to  belong  wholly  to 
the  specialists,  her  superficial  attainments  in  the 
heavenly  science  prevented  her  unchallenged 
acceptance  as  one  of  the  division  which  declared 
themselves  "know-nothings."  Her  wise  resolve 
in  consequence,  therefore,  was  to  enjoy  the  best 
in  the  programmes  of  both.  To  this  end  she 
watched  the  expedition  depart  for  northern  Yezo 
in  comfortable  consciousness  that  after  a  month 
the  eclipse  camp  would  be  in  readiness  to  re- 
ceive her  and  her  humble  assistance,  —  while 
happy  journeys  with  the  non-scientific  friends 
would  fill  the  intervening  weeks. 

Away  from  Yokohama  changes  in  the  last  few 
years  are  not  as  apparent.  To  be  sure,  the  genuine 


IN  FAMILIAR  HAUNTS  173 

old  swords,  dispersed  at  first  so  carelessly,  are  no 
more  to  be  picked  up  in  every  shop,  and  ancient 
robes  of  state  and  classic  kakemono  (scroll  pic- 
tures) can  be  found  no  more  at  bargains ;  but  the 
native  life  goes  on  much  in  its  normal  manner  as 
soon  as  the  immediate  influence  of  the  foreigner 
becomes  less. 

Primitive  natives  even  now  do  not  willingly 
eat  three  slices  of  pickled  daikon,  a  favorite 
vegetable,  since  legend  has  it  that  a  man  doomed 
to  death  for  some  crime  ate  three  slices  at  his 
last  meal  on  earth.  Two  or  four  are  therefore 
preferred.  Watering  the  streets  is  still  accom- 
plished with  much  simplicity  —  by  "joggling" 
out  of  a  cart,  scattering  with  dippers,  spilling 
from  buckets,  or  squirting  with  little  force 
pumps. 

The  hotel  where  visitors  formerly  stayed  in 
Tokyo  was  the  Sei-yo-ken,  near  the  foreign  com- 
pound Tsukiji.  It  purported  to  be  a  foreign  hotel, 
and  so  it  was  as  to  cuisine  and  beds  ;  but  it  so 
recently  had  emerged  from  Japanese  ways  that  it 
remained  very  picturesque,  from  the  moist  little 
entrance  courtyard  with  ferns  and  growing  deco- 
rations, to  the  Japanese  attendants  in  native 
dress.  Few  now  resort  to  the  modest  Sei-yo- 
ken,  travelers  being  fonder  of  staying  at  the  Im- 
perial hotel,  large,  airy,  and  impressive,  where 
the  guest  might  imagine  himself  in  one  country 


I74  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

as  much  as  another,  except  for  the  jinrikisha  in 
waiting  near  the  entrances  and  their  attendant 
coolies.  If  one  now  speaks  of  the  Sei-yo-ken,  he 
is  generally  supposed  to  mean  its  branch  estab- 
lishment, the  attractive  tea-house  of  the  same 
name  in  Uyeno  Park. 

The  park  itself  seems  little  changed  ;  the  trees 
are  larger,  the  shady  paths  more  beautiful ;  and 
even  midsummer  imagination  can  picture  the 
wonderful  arcades  in  cherry-blossom  time  — 
the  whole  air  one  exquisite  haze  of  pink  per- 
fume. 

In  the  great  lotus  pond  buds  were  beginning 
to  take  shape  amid  rich  green  leaves  ;  and  the 
magnificent  Golden  Gate  where  ends  a  long 
avenue  of  stone  lanterns  was  like  a  fresh  crea- 
tion, its  superb  restoration  having  been  accom- 
plished soon  after  our  other  visit. 

Shiba  temples  did  not  fail  of  their  earlier 
charm,  where  richly  decorated  altars  show  golden 
gleams  of  lotus  and  incense  burner,  vase  and 
candlestick,  with  calm  Buddhas  gazing  immov- 
ably into  far-off  space,  and  ceilings  whose  every 
panel,  is  a  separate  study  ;  with  mystic  odor  of 
incense  filling  the  dusky  interior,  and  placid-faced 
priests  moving  silently  about  with  shaved  heads 
and  ecclesiastical  robes. 

Formerly  visitors  had  to  remove  their  shoes 
before  entering  the  cool,  dimly  lighted  temples 


IN  FAMILIAR  HAUNTS  175 

with  their  exquisitely  lacquered  floors.  But 
the  spirit  of  change  has  touched  these  imme- 
morial shrines,  and  now  coolies  pull  over  the 
boots  of  foreign  visitors  a  sort  of  soft  white 
stocking,  or  tabi,  which  they  tie  deftly  round  the 
ankle,  —  a  tribute,  no  doubt,  to  the  constantly 
recurring  visits  of  persons  from  over  seas,  to 
whom  taking  off  shoes  means  a  longer  and  more 
elaborate  operation  than  slipping  the  simple 
wooden  clog  from  the  foot  of  a  Japanese  guest. 
Nine  years  before  I  had  been  an  object  of  intense 
interest  to  a  whole  congregation  from  a  temple 
service,  and  to  several  of  the  ministering  priests 
as  well,  all  of  whom  followed  me  out  for  the 
novel  experience  of  watching  a  foreigner  button 
her  boots.  But  now  the  operation  itself  is  no 
longer  necessary. 

The  great  tomb  of  the  second  Shogun,  the 
largest  specimen  of  gold  lacquer  extant,  was  to 
me  even  more  impressive  than  before.  More 
pathetic,  too,  were  the  memorials  of  the  forty- 
seven  faithful  Ronins  —  more  closely  human 
and  personal  the  swords,  the  worn  old  garments, 
kakemono,  and  ornaments;  even  their  graves  in 
the  shade  spoke  touchingly  of  a  loyal  constancy 
ennobling  to  the  annals  of  any  country. 

Certainly  two  visits  should  always  be  made  to 
a  distant  land  ;  the  first  grows  luminous  in  the 
light  of  the  second,  and  together  they  throw  a 


176  CORONA  AND  CORONET 

clear  radiance  upon  the  inner  spiritual  meaning 
of  its  life  and  story. 

That  greatly  abused  word,  picturesque,  can 
perhaps  be  most  properly  applied  in  Tokyo  to  its 
moats,  with  banks  sometimes  turfed  in  vivid 
green,  or  walled  with  stone,  from  the  top  of 
which  fine  old  pines  lean  their  crooked  branches 
low  down  toward  the  water.  The  white  walls  of 
the  old  Tokugawa  Castle  still  rise  in  a  tangle  of 
gnarled  pines,  though  the  dwelling  itself  was 
burned  in  the  Revolution  (1868),  and  the  streets 
make  innumerable  sudden  turns  through  and 
around  ancient  fortifications,  adding  an  immense 
charm  to  jinrikisha  riding  in  the  great  capital. 

In  one  of  the  pleasantest  quarters  stands  the 
Peeresses'  School,  which,  as  its  name  indicates, 
daughters  of  nobles  only  may  attend.  One  of  its 
leading  teachers  is  a  brilliant  young  woman  who, 
as  a  little  child,  was  of  that  first  famous  group  of 
Japanese  girls  (including  the  present  Countess 
Oyama)  sent  to  America  for  a  foreign  education 
more  than  twenty-five  years  ago.  Living  chiefly 
in  Washington,  where  I  remember  her  as  a  fasci- 
nating child  of  high-bred  manner,  studying  later 
at  Bryn  Mawr,  and  returning  to  her  native  coun- 
try while  still  young,  she  combines  the  best  of 
both  civilizations. 

The  little  peeresses  have  a  delightful  spot  for 
their  educational  efforts.  They  are  charming 


IN  FAMILIAR  HAUNTS  177 

girls,  and  the  refined  type  of  face  is  in  striking 
contrast  to  that  constantly  seen  thronging  the 
streets.  All  wore  native  dress,  often  exceed- 
ingly rich  and  handsome,  occasionally  a  royal 
purple  kimono  or  obi;  and  their  demeanor  was 
exquisitely  courteous  and  graceful,  noticeably  so 
even  in  a  land  where  fine  manners  extend  to  all 
classes. 

Modern  culture  and  that  of  the  old  regime  are 
here  successfully  united  ;  and  while  thorough  in- 
struction in  English  was  going  forward  in  one 
room,  in  another  a  grave  and  elderly  Japanese 
scholar  was  giving  punctilious  care  to  the  intri- 
cacies of  Japanese  penmanship  —  would  it  were 
with  us  as  much  of  a  fine  art !  There  a  young 
girl  was  learning  the  elaborate  form  necessary 
in  removing  a  kakemono  properly  from  the  wall ; 
here,  poetry  and  classics  were  studied  faithfully 
by  the  gentle  daughters  of  an  ancient  nobility. 

All  went  on  without  fret  or  hurry ;  composed 
and  gracious  earnestness  were  everywhere  appar- 
ent. At  recess  there  was  no  noise,  or  shadow  of 
confusion,  but  a  great  deal  of  bowing  to  teacher 
and  guest  as  the  classes  filed  out ;  and  during 
their  recreation  the  best  of  merry  manners  pre- 
vailed. The  lovely  garden  was  rich  in  verdure 
and  artistic  arrangement,  and  a  soft  rain  gave 
additional  freshness  to  every  growing  thing. 

One  well-remembered  haunt  (the  Nakadori)  for 


178  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

picking  up  bits  of  old  lacquer  and  bronze  and 
porcelain,  and  ancient  embroideries,  seemed  to 
have  felt  the  touch  of  foreigners  in  more  ways 
than  one ;  and  prices,  still  elastic,  began  at 
heights  never  dreamed  a  few  years  ago,  descend- 
ing with  greater  reluctance.  Genuine  articles, 
too,  are  rare  in  the  little  street,  and  modern  imi- 
tations frequent.  Still,  with  care  and  discrimi- 
nation beautiful  things  may  still  be  found  in  its 
precincts.  Without  sidewalks,  each  shop  wide 
open,  owners  placidly  smoking  in  the  midst  of 
their  wares,  the  customer  strolls  along  the  way 
from  one  to  the  other,  seating  himself  on  the 
edge  of  any  shop  floor  as  fancy  strikes  him,  his 
jinrikisha  slowly  following,  its  amiable  coolie 
ready  to  assume  entire  charge  of  purchases. 

Unfailingly  reliable,  no  one  of  the  multitude 
of  wooden  boxes  containing  vase  or  lacquer  or 
whatnot,  carefully  tied  with  small  twine  handles 
for  convenient  carrying,  is  ever  mislaid  or  unac- 
counted for  by  the  kurumaya. 

Of  course  in  these  attractive  shops  the  pur- 
chaser must  depend  chiefly  upon  his  own  judg- 
ment of  quality  and  value ;  but  near  by  are  two 
responsible  places  where  prices  are  definitely 
fixed,  each  article  precisely  as  represented.  In 
one  of  them  is  shown  the  cloisonne"  without  visi- 
ble wires,  invented  by  Namikawa,  whose  work 
is  a  dream  of  beauty.  All  in  soft,  delicate  tints, 


IN  FAMILIAR  HAUNTS  179 

—  dim  moons  with  sprays  of  ethereal  cherry 
blossoms  (sakurd)  dashed  across  them,  faint 
mountains  against  ineffable  skies,  with  a  sug- 
gested bird  or  two  —  the  thought  is  in  every  case 
poetically  conceived  and  executed,  one  large  piece 
having  occupied  Namikawa  for  nearly  four  years. 
The  old  man  himself,  modest,  retiring,  and  ex- 
ceedingly refined,  bears  marks  of  the  true  artist 
in  every  expression  and  movement. 

Across  the  street  is  a  permanent  exhibition 
of  works  of  art  by  the  leading  masters  of  Japan 
in  their  specialties.  Ivory  carvings  of  wonderful 
beauty  and  skill,  bronzes,  lacquer,  porcelains  — 
everything  is  of  the  finest,  with  prices  which  may 
not  be  lowered. 

A  pleasant  habit  among  reliable  dealers  in 
Japan  when  sending  their  bill  to  one  person  who 
has  bought  several  articles  of  large  value,  is  not 
to  make  a  discount,  but  instead  to  give  a  "pre- 
sent," perhaps  something  admired  by  the  cus- 
tomer but  not  finally  included  in  his  chosen  pur- 
chases. 

Only  two  or  three  days  remained  before  the 
Coronet  would  start  on  her  southern  trip  ;  one  of 
these  was  the  Fourth  of  July,  a  famous  day  in 
the  happy  port  of  Yokohama.  All  ships  in  har- 
bor were  lavishly  decorated  with  countless  flags 
and  pennants,  the  American  admiral  gave  a  re- 
ception on  the  Olympia,  noontime  salutes  of 


i8o  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

twenty-one  guns  from  the  men-of-war  made  the 
harbor  reverberate,  day  fireworks  filled  the  air 
with  brightness,  and  a  special  tiffin  at  the  Grand 
Hotel  (where  well-remembered,  dusky  Cingalese 
in  tortoise-shell  combs  and  flowing  white  draper- 
ies still  displayed  their  wares  on  the  veranda) 
was  attended  by  scores  of  pleasant  people. 
Early  in  the  afternoon  various  feats  of  juggling 
took  place  on  the  lawn  at  the  landward  entrance 
of  the  hotel,  and  a  baseball  game  was  played  on 
a  fine  field,  between  a  Japanese  nine  and  another 
made  up  chiefly  of  sailors  from  the  war  vessels. 
The  Americans  won,  but  the  Japanese  played 
well,  their  running,  and  sliding  to  bases,  being 
particularly  agile. 

In  the  evening  various  events  of  a  social  na- 
ture went  forward  on  shore  and  in  harbor,  bril- 
liant fireworks  and  illuminations  flashed  over 
the  quiet  sea ;  and  our  national  holiday  became 
in  retrospect  dignified  and  invested  with  a  cer- 
tain elegance  as  well  as  crude  patriotism. 

But  Kobe  and  the  Inland  Sea  would  not  come 
to  the  Coronet,  so  turning  her  bow  lightly  to- 
ward the  south,  good  -  bys  were  said  to  the 
friendly  harbor,  and  the  pretty  craft  sailed  airily 
off  down  the  bay,  and  along  the  coast. 


CHAPTER   XVIII 

SOUTHWARD 

Praise  the  sea,  but  keep  on  laud. 

HERBERT,  Jacula  Prudentum. 

IT  was  unmistakably  typhoon  season.  The 
Coronet  plunged  at  once  into  a  gale,  with  higher 
seas  than  any  experienced  during  our  whole  voy- 
age across  the  Pacific.  Even  after  seven  or  eight 
thousand  miles  of  recent  training,  some  of  the 
company  were  unhappy  because  of  violent  pitch- 
ing. A  story  was  recalled  at  which  we  had  scorn- 
fully laughed  when  first  related  on  board :  — 

"  Friends,"  said  the  captain  of  a  steamer  labor- 
ing in  a  fatal  storm,  "  We  must  prepare  for  death. 
We  shall  go  down  in  an  hour." 

"  Heavens,"  groaned  a  passenger,  "  must  we 
live  an  hour  yet !  " 

After  a  tumultuous  night  breakfast-time  found 
us  back  in  Yeddo  Bay,  anchored  farther  down 
than  before,  near  the  light-ship  and  outside  the 
breakwater.  The  morning  sea  was  very  calm  and 
pale,  and  covered  with  small  fishing-boats. 

Our  friends  on  the  Olympia  proceeded  at  once 
to  engage  in  conversation  by  signal  flags.  Em- 


1 82  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

barrassing  questions  were  asked  as  to  this  humble 
return,  after  our  refusal  of  several  invitations  on 
account  of  immediate  necessity  for  reaching  Kobe. 
All  of  which  were  answered  from  the  Coronet 
with  unabated  cheerfulness. 

The  International  Signal  Code  contains  all  one 
could  possibly  wish  to  say  at  sea ;  translation  of 
remarks  from  the  Olympia  was  quite  exciting, 
as  well  as  composition  of  replies,  and  selecting 
proper  flags  to  express  them. 

In  addition  to  a  flag  for  every  consonant,  there 
is  an  "answering"  pennant,  one  for  "yes"  and 
one  for  "no,"  with  every  sort  of  combination. 
"  More  help  is  required,"  for  instance,  is  D  C  V  B ; 
"  thanks,"  R  S  J  ;  and  sentences  for  all  circum- 
stances and  conditions  fill  two  or  three  hundred 
pages,  with  special  appeals  for  help  in  emergen- 
cies, as  "  I  am  on  fire,"  or  "  I  am  sinking." 

For  a  few  hours  we  lay  still,  until  the  wind  had 
lessened  outside  ;  then,  toward  sunset,  with  B  D  R 
("good-by")  fluttering,  the  Coronet  once  more 
set1  forth,  on  a  quiet  sea. 

Until  darkness  Fuji  was  magnificently  in  evi- 
dence, and  constantly  changing  foregrounds  made 
new  pictures  all  the  evening.  Sometimes  a  steep, 
sharp  bluff,  then  a  line  of  soft  green  hills ;  once 
a  large  fleet  of  fishing  boats  seemed  lying  at  his 
feet.  Even  the  clouds  in  this  artistic  land  are 
decorative,  their  long,  wavy,  golden  lines  like  the 


SOUTHWARD  183 


conventional  cloud  -  shapes  of  kakemono  or  em- 
broidery or  carving.  Once  a  huge  dragon  in  bril- 
liant yellow  lay  just  above  Fuji's  sombre  crown ; 
again,  fleeing  women,  elusive  mountains,  and  on- 
rushing  animals.  For  hours  this  splendid,  shifting 
spectacle  continued,  about  and  above  the  grim, 
faultless  peak,  until  night  fell  and  land  and  water 
became  one  mass  of  quiet  darkness  under  the 
starlit  sky,  a  dull,  volcanic  glow  from  Vries  Island 
touching  the  east  with  sullen  light. 

Almost  a  week  passed  in  delightful  but  some- 
what aimless  sailing  along  the  coast ;  baffling 
breezes  alternated  with  dead  calms,  or  what  ap- 
peared to  be  beginnings  of  gales,  with  an  uncer- 
tain feeling  in  the  air,  and  typhoon  color  in  the 
sunsets.  Slowly  the  idea  was  accepted  that  yacht- 
ing along  the  Japan  coast  in  July  and  August 
affords  unsatisfying  recreation.  Reluctantly  it 
was  abandoned.  Although  already  far  passed,  a 
landing  in  Suruga  Gulf  was  the  most  available 
place,  at  the  little  town  of  Shimidzu.  Thither  the 
Coronet's  bow  was  repointed,  that  her  owner  and 
his  guests  might  proceed  overland  to  Kyoto  and 
Kobe,  the  yacht  afterward  returning  to  her  Yoko- 
hama anchorage  to  await  our  return. 

But  Shimidzu  is  a  closed  port,  and  whether  this 
unexpected  influx  of  foreigners  could  obtain  per- 
mission to  land  was  by  no  means  sure.  All  one 
bright,  sparkling  forenoon  the  Coronet  was  beat- 


184  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

ing  up  the  beautiful  gulf.  Fuji  splendidly  domi- 
nates this  whole  region,  and  the  bay  is  hemmed 
in  by  lesser  hills  and  mountains,  green  to  their 
cultivated  summits,  and  touched  by  lovely  haze. 
Thatched  houses  line  the  shore,  and  an  occasional 
temple  shows  the  fine  lines  of  its  roof  higher  in 
the  sunny  air,  while  terraces  of  vines  and  tea 
plants  rise  behind. 

Word  had  apparently  gone  forth  that  a  foreign 
vessel  was  coming,  and  from  villages  along  the 
coast,  fifteen  or  sixteen  miles  away,  gathered  the 
sampans  —  filled  with  a  curious  crowd,  most  of 
whom  had  never  seen  an  American  before,  much 
less  an  American  yacht.  Closer  they  clustered, 
more  numerous  as  Shimidzu  was  approached,  gaz- 
ing with  undisguised  amazement,  entirely  different 
from  the  spoiled  sampan  scullers  of  Yokohama. 

Anchoring  boldly  in  these  forbidden  waters,  a 
native  man-of-war  was  discovered  near  the  shore, 
the  red  sun-rays  from  a  central  orb  on  the  flag  of 
the  Imperial  Navy  fluttering  gayly  in  the  pleasant 
breeze.  Very  soon  an  imposing  boat  set  forth 
from  the  vessel's  side,  and  two  officers  came  on 
board,  one  of  whom  spoke  a  few  words  of  English. 
It  was  carefully  explained  to  them  through  our 
interpreter,  Okita,  that  baffling  winds,  stress  of 
weather,  in  short,  while  on  the  way  to  Kobe,  had 
necessitated  our  unexpected  advent  in  their  midst. 
Permission  to  land  was  asked,  and  at  once  and 


SOUTHWARD  185 


most  graciously  granted,  even  before  our  special 
passports  were  shown,  with  a  great  bundle  of  doc- 
uments to  Japanese  dignitaries. 

Omnipresent  police  also  made  their  visit  of  in- 
spection ;  but  nothing  could  exceed  the  courtesy 
with  which  the  yacht's  company  was  treated, 
while  scrutiny  from  thickly  crowding  sampans 
was  entirely  friendly,  if  still  amazed.  Officials  in 
all  departments  of  the  government  knew  of  the 
expedition ;  but  to  ignorant  fishermen,  and  peas- 
ants surrounding  us  as  we  landed,  we  were  an 
unexplained  wonder,  certainly  novel  and  probably 
grotesque. 

In  a  procession  of  seven  jinrikisha,  the  little 
town  was  traversed,  and  we  were  out  upon  the 
Tokaido,  toward  Shizuoka,  the  nearest  railway 
station,  Alfred  and  Okita  following  to  watch  the 
two  absurd  tipcarts  laden  with  our  kori  (baskets) 
and  drawn  by  women.  And  Japan  unadulterated 
and  chiefly  unadorned  ran  out  to  witness  the  pass- 
ing. Young  mothers  with  blackened  teeth,  and 
chubby  babies  on  their  backs,  little  sisters  with 
heavy  brothers  on  theirs,  schoolboys  in  kimono 
well  tucked  up  into  their  obi,  and  boys  and  girls 
without  any  kimono  or  obi  at  all ;  occasionally  an 
old  man  arrayed  in  a  garment  of  green  mosquito 
netting  —  all  flocked  to  the  street  as  our  train  of 
kuruma  went  by. 

It  was  a  poor  little  village,  yet  the  wide-open 


186  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

houses  were  clean,  and  through  the  parted  screens 
at  the  back  could  always  be  seen  small  and  taste- 
fully arranged  gardens,  dear  to  even  the  humblest 
Japanese.  Making  match-boxes  appeared  a  pre- 
vailing industry,  with  silk  spinning,  and  weaving 
cloth.  Hollyhocks  grew  profusely,  and  countless 
blossoms  of  hydrangea  were  fastened  on  door- 
posts. Trumpet-vines  flaunting  great  scarlet  and 
yellow  flowers  covered  many  a  little  house  — 
stately  lotus  was  beginning  to  show  fair  pink  buds 
in  wayside  ponds,  and  the  shrilling  of  cicadae 
filled  the  summer  afternoon. 

Rice-fields  were  full  of  cultivators,  men  and 
women  and  children,  who  straightened  their  bent 
backs  for  a  moment,  looking  up  stolidly  at  the 
passing  jinrikisha,  their  dull  faces  hardly  capable 
of  expressing  even  surprise. 

Toward  Fuji  the  mountains  were  blue  and  hazy, 
though  the  king  himself  had  withdrawn  ;  and  the 
road  was  lined  with  young  cryptomerias,  not  a 
hundred  feet  high,  like  those  bordering  the  glori- 
ous avenue  toward  Nikko ;  and  groves  of  bamboo 
tossed  their  delicate  green  leaves  in  the  warm  air. 

Shaded  by  ferns,  and  not  very  clean,  —  probably 
rioting  ground  for  countless  families  of  microbes, 
—  streams  of  water  flowed  through  the  streets, 
beautiful  if  deadly  ;  and  over  them  leaned  women, 
artlessly  arrayed,  washing  vegetables  in  the  run- 
ning water.  Occasionally  some  child  or  young 


SOUTHWARD  187 


girl  would  catch  sight,  of  this  procession  advancing 
far  down  the  road ;  she  would  instantly  vanish, 
rushing  frantically  for  the  rest  of  the  family,  only 
to  return  streetward  in  hot  haste  with  grand- 
mothers and  babies  to  gaze  till  our  disappearance. 
A  few  smiled  amiably  in  answer  to  smiles  of 
greeting  from  the  jinrikisha,  but  many  seemed 
too  dazed  to  apprehend  the  fact  of  a  common 
humanity. 

Once  a  whole  school  passed,  walking  decorously, 
two  by  two,  conducted  by  their  teachers,  the  little 
girls  in  front  in  scarlet  petticoats,  the  boys  in 
gray  divided  skirts,  with  high,  stiff  belts.  They 
examined  the  foreigners  with  interest,  though  de- 
void of  rustic  surprise. 

Time  in  Shizuoka  was  not  sufficient  to  visit  its 
old  castle,  or  temples.  The  little  hotel  has  three 
or  four  "foreign  "  rooms,  bare  and  unhomelike, 
the  native  portion  neat  and  attractive  like  all  good 
Japanese  inns. 

European  food  was  served ;  but  attempts  to 
adopt  and  imitate  things  Western  were  pathetic ; 
in  the  tokonoma  (niche  or  recess),  usually  sacred 
to  artistic  kakemono  and  accompanying  vase  or 
bronze,  hung  a  map  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  rail- 
way. 

The  world  is  undoubtedly  progressing,  but  in 
just  which  direction  is  not  always  apparent. 


CHAPTER   XIX 

GIFU    AND    THE    CORMORANT    FISHING 

For  flying  at  the  brook,  I  saw  not  better  sport  these  seven  years'  day. 
SHAKESPEARE,  2  Henry  VI.  ii.  i. 

A  NATIVE  inn  of  especial  charm  is  the  Tamaiya 
at  Gifu.  Deliciously  clean,  the  rooms  open  off 
shining  corridors  upon  lovely  outside  verandas 
overhanging  mossy  garden  courts,  ponds  full  of 
goldfish,  blue  porcelain  jars,  stepping-stones, 
shrubbery,  and  stone  lanterns. 

The  sliding  screens  of  old  gilt  were  decorated 
with  spirited  drawings  of  horses  and  scenery, 
beautiful  metal  ornaments,  and  fine  carving.  Ceil- 
ings were  of  delicate  wood  paneling,  or  paintings 
of  flocks  of  ducks.  Little  closets  or  cupboards 
for  the  few  dainty  conveniences  in  each  room, 
bedding,  mosquito  nets,  and  so  forth,  had  doors 
decorated  in  monochrome  drawings  ;  the  hibachi 
(braziers)  were  exceptionally  handsome  bronze. 
The  tokonoma  had  each  its  fine  scroll  picture,  and 
stand  of  lacquer  holding  an  incense  burner,  or 
perhaps  a  porcelain  vase  of  tall  grasses  or  spray 
of  blossoms  arranged  with  the  consummate  skill 
of  typical  Japanese  art.  The  proprietor,  a  man  of 


GIFU  AND   THE  CORMORANT  FISHING      189 

much  refinement,  was  a  collector  of  ancient  paint- 
ings. 

On  moonless  nights  from  May  to  October  cor- 
morant fishing  is  in  progress  upon  the  Nagara 
river  at  Gifu,  a  spectacle  very  popular  with  Japa- 
nese travelers.  After  it  was  quite  dark  jinrikisha 
from  the  inn  conveyed  us  through  the  city  and 
across  the  river.  The  little  shops  were  wide  open, 
and  many  persons  coming  and  going  through 
the  narrow  streets.  Flaring  torches  have  largely 
given  way  to  lamps,  and  an  artistic  paper  lantern 
may  sometimes,  in  these  latter  days,  be  found 
intimately  associated  with  a  modest  incandescent 
light.  But  the  kurumaya  carry  their  tall,  narrow 
lanterns,  and  run  very  rapidly. 

Many  queer  little  turns  around  dark  corners 
brought  us  to  a  long  bridge  which  by  no  means 
went  straight  across  the  river,  but  had  several 
curves  and  angles  in  its  passage  over  the  Nagara. 
Small  boats  on  the  dark  water  beneath  slowly 
drifted  down  stream,  burning  a  few  boughs  to 
attract  fish ;  but  these  were  merely  amateurs. 

Below  the  bridge  could  be  heard  a  rush  of  falls, 
and  a  dark  and  heavily  wooded  hill  rose  high 
against  sky  but  a  shade  less  black.  A  "sharp  turn 
brought  our  whole  picturesque  procession  to  a 
halt  at  the  farther  bank,  where  a  large  native 
crowd  had  collected,  and  our  pleasure-boat  lay 
awaiting  us. 


CORONA  AND   CORONET 


Everything  was  in  holiday  attire,  and  stepping 
on  board  the  decorated  craft  we  felt  as  if  a  nat- 
ural part  of  this  festive  scene.  Nearly  all  the 
boat,  except  a  high  and  pointed  bow,  was  taken  up 
with  a  pretty,  matted  room  under  a  light  wood 
ceiling,  the  sides  of  paper  screens  now  pushed 
widely  apart,  the  opening  draped  with  pale  blue 
curtains  and  blue  and  pink  lanterns  swinging  all 
around  the  roof. 

Swarthy  and  half  naked  coolies  immediately 
pushed  off  into  the  river,  our  boat  becoming  one 
of  a  fleet,  the  others  filled  with  Japanese  pleasure 
parties,  also  being  poled  up  the  stream.  The 
river  was  very  wide  and  dark  ;  far  across  was  a 
shingly  beach  ;  beyond,  a  high,  dusky  hill. 

Three  attractive  geisha,  engaged  to  entertain 
us  before  reaching  the  scene  of  cormorant  fishing, 
now  took  gracefully  upon  themselves  the  duties  of 
hostesses  —  tea  first  and  a  musical  programme 
after. 

The  oldest  played  the  samisen  (three-stringed 
instrument)  ;  the  second,  who  sang,  was  about  six- 
teen, wearing  an  enormous  and  curiously  tied  obi, 
long  enough  to  reach  the  floor,  and  many  orna- 
ments in  her  hair.  The  youngest  could  not  have 
been  over  thirteen,  but  her  hair  was  also  burdened 
with  scarlet  and  silver  and  golden  adornments, 
and  with  her  palm  she  beat  a  little  red,  tasseled 
drum.  Both  the  younger  girls  were  in  crape 


GIFU  AND    THE   CORMORANT  FISHING      191 

kimono  of  blue  and  scarlet,  a,nd  their  names  signi- 
fied "the  small  wave,"  and  "the  sweet  bell  of  a 
Shinto  shrine." 

Various  songs  and  dialogues  were  performed, 
and  simple  but  graceful  fan  dances.  With  bright 
scarfs  tied  over  their  hair,  they  assumed  pom- 
pous expressions  and  went  through  one  humor- 
ous little  play.  Many  of  the  words  were  merely 
nonsense  syllables,  and  the  melody  was  easy  to 


etc. 


remember.  The  music  is  founded  upon  the  har- 
monic minor  scale,  and  melodies  rarely  end  upon 
the  tonic,  which  has  apparently  no  musical  value 
in  Japan. 

Suddenly  out  of  the  darkness  boys  and  men 
appeared  in  startling  nearness,  walking  by  in  the 
water,  their  bare  brown  legs  glistening  and  their 
dark  blue  kimono  tucked  high  up.  The  effect 
was  curious,  to  say  the  least,  —  boats  and  walking 
figures  close  together  in  the  same  stream  ;  but 
feeling  a  slight  scrape,  and  looking  over  into  the 
water,  it  was  found  very  shallow,  with  a  shadowy 
bed  of  variegated  pebbles. 

Singing  frogs  made  lovely  music  all  through 


192  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

the  merry  evening,  and  as  it  grew  later  the  little 
maids  finally  prepared  a  Japanese  supper,  —  eels 
and  rice,  fish  and  seaweed. 

After  a  while  a  certain  commotion  up  stream 
indicated  we  were  near  the  famous  fishing.  Six 
brilliant  lights  seemed  drifting  downward,  and  in  a 
moment  they  surrounded  us.  Six  boats  had  each 
an  iron  cage  swung  forward  over  the  water,  full  of 
brightly  burning  wood  which  threw  a  wide  glare. 
In  each  bow  stood  a  man  holding  twelve  cords 
attached  to  as  many  cormorants,  large,  black 
water  birds,  struggling  and  screaming  and  diving 
in  every  direction.  Not  to  tangle  all  those  lines 
required  the  skill  of  a  circus  driver,  as  each  bird 
went  its  own  way  in  search  of  the  fish  it  instantly 
swallowed. 

But  the  unusual  part  of  this  method  of  fishing 
is  that  a  heavy  iron  ring  at  the  base  of  the  cor- 
morant's neck  is  so  tight  as  to  allow  only  the 
smallest  fish  to  pass  through.  All  others  lodge 
in  the  throat,  and  when  that  is  full  the  bird  is 
hauled  back  into  the  boat,  and  made  to  disgorge 
what  it  has  just  been  at  such  trouble  to  obtain. 
That  a  bird  should  thereafter  immediately  desire 
to  go  fishing  again  seems  odd,  but  its  ardor  is 
unabated,  and  it  rushes  once  more  into  the  fray 
with  ever  new  enthusiasm.  Three  thousand  of 
the  at,  a  sort  of  trout,  is  not  a  large  evening's 
catch  for  a  single  boat. 


GIFU  AND    THE   CORMORANT  FISHING      193 

The  scene  was  unique,  —  flaring  faggots,  half 
naked  boatmen,  the  dusky  river  full  of  brightly 
lighted  pleasure  craft  and  moving  figures,  baskets 
of  shining  fish,  and  the  excited  and  fluttering 
birds.  • 

Each  man  is  greatly  attached  to  his  cormorants, 
and  if  by  any  chance  they  have  not  managed  to 
swallow  enough  small  fish  for  proper  nourish- 
ment, others  are  given  them  from  the  catch  for 
a  good  supper.  Then  they  are  tucked  into  basket 
cages  to  rest  until  the  next  night's  sport. 

And  so  pleasure-boats  and  fishing-boats  drifted 
down  the  river  together ;  the  jinrikisha  were  wait- 
ing, and  through  dark  and  quiet  streets,  over  the 
long  bridge  and  around  unexpected  corners  ran 
the  little  procession,  dashing  into  the  Tamaiya 
courtyard  soon  after  midnight. 


CHAPTER   XX 

KYOTO 

* 

The  pine  is  the  mother  of  legends. 

LOWELL,  Reverie. 

"  MADAM/'  said  a  courtly  Japanese  gentleman 
to  an  American  single  lady  of  uncertain  age,  "you 
remind  me  of  our  beautiful  pine-tree." 

"  Ah !  "  she  replied,  visibly  flattered,  "  and 
may  I  ask  in  what  way  ? " 

"  Because,  although  you  are  so  old,  you  are  ever 
green,"  he  answered  suavely,  quite  unaware  that 
he  had  failed  to  pay  her  a  supreme  compliment. 

This  incident  came  to  mind  when  rolling  com- 
fortably through  the  city  of  Kyoto,  across  the 
rushing  river,  which  seemed  to  have  as  much  dry 
and  stony  bed  as  actual  channel,  and  past  innu- 
merable temple  gates  toward  the  Yaami  Hotel. 
Glorious  conifers  thickly  covered  the  surrounding 
hills,  and  the  hotel  itself  is  set  in  a  background  of 
towering  cryptomerias,  sombre,  stately,  beautiful. 
Truly  one  might  be  compared  to  many  things 
worse. 

The  famous  cherry-tree  in  the  city  park  was 
surrounded  by  an  amiable,  strolling  crowd  of  wo- 
men and  children,  and  in  a  moment  the  outer 


KYOTO  195 

gate  of  the  Yaami  was  reached,  and  the  upward 
walk,  by  mossy  rocks,  under  large  shade  trees,  up 
steps,  past  ponds  and  fountains  and  lanterns,  led 
us  to  one  of  the  verandas. 

The  hotel  stands  on  varying  levels,  to  which 
there  are  many  approaches.  .  One  may  traverse  a 
piazza,  and  entering,  ascend  ofdinary  stairs ;  or 
by  an  outside  stairway,  and  corridors  overhanging 
a  delightful  little  public  road  which  looks  like  a 
forest  path  up  to  some  mountain  deity's  inner- 
most shrine ;  or  he  may  walk  farther  through 
the  garden,  past  another  pond  and  up  a  few  more 
mossy  stone  steps  set  with  vague,  artistic  tiles, 
reaching  thus  the  second  or  third  story  of  another 
portion  of  the  house.  Tall  evergreens  clothing 
the  hillside  close  by  shelter  temples  and  shrines 
enough  to  occupy  many  days  without  once  visit- 
ing the  city  below. 

From  the  upper  verandas  the  view  has  a  truly 
magnificent  sweep,  taking  in  all  of  Kyoto,  usually 
wrapped  in  a  bit  of  dreamy  haze,  and  the  far, 
green-blue  hills  beyond  —  at  night  mysterious  and 
impressive  with  myriad  twinkling  lights,  under  a 
young  moon  sailing  in  the  high  heavens  among 
lightly  drifting  cloud.  Fireflies  flitted  through 
heavy  shrubbery  below  the  balconies,  murmuring 
water  tinkled  softly  in  the  warm  darkness,  and 
the  humming,  buzzing,  singing  of  insects  in  the 
garden  filled  the  summer  nights. 


196  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Many  foreigners  were  enjoying  the  artistic  sur- 
roundings and  excellent  table  of  the  Yaami  — 
Americans,  French,  English,  carrying  national 
peculiarities  as  distinctively  and  carefully  as  if 
precious  enough  to  pack  in  kori.  Late  every 
afternoon,  while  taking  tea  in  the  breeze  of  an 
upper  balcony,  in  cool  kimono,  we  watched  various 
parties  of  indefatigable  shoppers  and  sightseers 
toiling  up  the  steps,  their  faces  red  and  hot  with 
exertion,  but  a  familiar  expression  of  satisfied 
bargaining  upon  their  moist  features,  as  if  reflect- 
ing upon  the  purchases  dutifully  carried  in  arm- 
fuls  of  little  wooden  boxes  by  jinrikisha  men 
following. 

Radiantly  beautiful  were  early  mornings  on  the 
hillside.  The  exquisitely  pathetic  sweetness  of  a 
near-by  temple  bell  often  rang  out  at  dewy  dawn 
and  over  the  silent  city,  with  a  call  fit  to  beckon 
the  soul  straight  out  and  away  —  anywhere,  if 
only  might  be  reached  its  realm  of  peace  and 
forgotten  pain.  Its  tone  was  a  sacrament.  Fra- 
grance from  freshened  gardens  rose  to  the  balco- 
nies, and  finally  the  sun,  still  partly  shrouded  in 
morning  mist,  shone  on  the  glistening  verdure, 
and  mere  living  led  everything  to  rejoice  with  ex- 
ceeding gladness. 

Okita  was  very  entertaining  ;  almost  he  might 
be  reckoned  as  guide,  philosopher,  and  friend. 
By  profession  an  interpreter,  he  was  invaluable 


KYOTO  197 

in  all  situations.  Even  half  the  legends  and 
histories  he  related  about  shrines,  persons,  and 
scenes  would  have  made  an  amusing  and  entirely 
original  volume  upon  the  flowery  kingdom.  In 
temple,  shop,  or  castle  Okita  was  equally  at  home. 
Only  at  sea  was  he  ever  overcome  by  circum- 
stances. 

He  was  very  comfortable  upon  the  subject  of 
religion,  of  which  he  said  he  had  none,  —  Buddhist 
nor  Shinto  nor  Christian.  He  laughed  a  great 
deal,  with  a  funny  little  pucker  of  his  nose  quite 
irresistible.  The  Captain  was  "  famous  fellow  " 
now,  he  said,  both  yacht  and  expedition  had  been 
written  of  so  much  in  Japanese  papers.  Priests 
ministering  at  a  Buddhist  altar  he  called  "  sacred 
fellows."  When  asked  about  his  family  Okita 
laughed  heartily.  "Had  a  wife  one  time,"  he 
said,  "  very  nice  woman  —  very  nice.  .But  I  too 
young,  so  divorced  her,  ha  !  ha ! " 

The  Kamogawa  is  wide,  shallow,  sunny,  crossed 
by  countless  bridges.  Always  there  were  chil- 
dren tumbling  about  in  the  water,  women  wash- 
ing, and  lines  of  houses  close  to  the  edge,  their 
balconies  overhanging  the  stream.  And  there 
are  canals  bordered  by  willow-trees,  and  moats, 
and  ever  mountain  backgrounds  and  birds  flying 
decoratively  against  yellow  sunset  skies. 

Kyoto  is  credited  with  eight  hundred  temples. 
But  it  was  Kyoto  in  large,  impressionist  effects  — 


198  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

shrines,  palace,  castle,  arts,  scenery,  all  blended 
in  one  glowing  memory  rather  than  clearness  of 
minute  detail  —  which  time  permitted  in  this 
royal  city  of  the  centuries.  Built  five  hundred 
years  ago,  the  golden  pavilion,  its  ceiling,  walls, 
floor,  balcony,  and  rafters  overlaid  with  precious 
metal,  was  the  favorite  haunt  of  the  Shogun  Yo- 
shimitsu,  whence  he  often  gazed  enraptured  at 
the '  moon,  or  at'  the  opposite  hills,  once  covered 
with  white  silk  for  the  pleasure  of  an  Ex-Mikado 
who  wished  to  imagine  snow  in  summer  heat.  A 
dreamy  morning  was  spent  here,  and  tn  the  beau- 
tiful grounds,  a  funny  little  boy  reciting  in  high, 
artificial  singsong,  with  a  sudden  drop  into  nor- 
mal tones  at  the  end  of  each  sentence,  legends 
and  history  which  must  have  lost  much  of  their 
quaintness  in  translation,  as  he  conscientiously 
pointed  out  the  springs  where  Yoshimitsu  bathed 
or  drank  and  made  tea,  and  every  other  especial 
spot. 

Myoshingi  Temple  is  lofty  beyond  others,  with 
almost  a  cathedral  effect  of  space ;  Nishi  Hong- 
wanji  has  a  superb  series  of  apartments  once 
used  by  the  daimios,  and  decorated  with  golden 
screens  ;  Higashi  Hongwanji  was  founded  shortly 
after  the  other,  about  three  hundred  years  ago, 
and  burned  just  before  the  Revolution.  The 
present  edifice,  only  recently  completed,  is  of 
noble  proportions,  and  gorgeous  decoration,  — 


KYOTO  199 

abounding  in   panels  of  lotus  on  dull  gold,  and 
gleaming  altars  filled  with  rich  art. 

Worshipers  came  in  constantly,  clapping  their 
hands  to  draw  the  attention  of  deity,  a  cere-* 
mony  practiced  with  apparently  equal  effect  upon 
any  absentee,  whether  god  or  servant.  The  old 
Hawaiians  also  clapped  their  hands  in  praying, 
perhaps  for  the  same  reason,  though  their  gods 
were  of  a  less  cultured  variety.  Buddhism  hardly 
seems  decadent  when  a  new  temple  of  such  rich- 
ness is  built  and  maintained  by  modern  enthu- 
siasm. 

San-ju-Sangendo,  as  its  name  implies,  supposably 
contains  33,333  images  of  Kwannon,  goddess  of 
mercy.  Actually  about  a  thousand,  they  represent 
the  others  by  various  computations,  and  as  row 
after  row  of  these  golden  ladies  rises,  one  behind 
the  other,  each  statue  nearly  life-size,  the  effect  is 
overwhelming.  An  old  attendant  in  the  temple 
told  us  solemnly  that  all  were  miraculously  made 
from  a  single  willow-tree,  pointing  out  also  what 
he  termed  "  devil-protectors  "  on  either  side  of  the 
central  figure.  Certainly  they  should  be  effective 
in  warning  off  all  the  powers  of  evil. 

Of  course  the  goddess  in  her  multitudinous 
representations  has  an  occasional  accident,  and  a 
hand  or  an  arm  must  frequently  be  replaced.  The 
divine  repair  shop  was  discovered,  but  not  even 
by  an  offer  of  sen  galore,  nor  by  manifest  appro- 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


priateness  to  his  profession,  could  our  good  Doctor 
prevail  upon  the  attendant  worthy  to  present  him 
with  a  discarded  nose  or  even  a  stray  finger. 

Famous  bells,  among  the  largest  in  the  world, 
fountains  springing  miraculously  to  avert  confla- 
grations, historic  carp,  altars  mystic  with  the 
incense  of  generations,  —  appreciation  became 
almost  pain,  as  day  after  day  went  by  and  we 
realized  that  year  after  year  instead  must  -pass 
before  half  could  be  seen,  much  less  assimilated. 

I  wish  that  young,  middle-class  Japan,  in  transi- 
tion state  of  costume,  would  not  allow  itself  to 
appear  incongrously  projected  upon  a  background 
of  temple  or  castle  walls.  Practice  with  European 
clothes  should  go  on  remotely  from  these  great 
monuments,  "  the  finished  f ashionings  from  a  far 
past." 

From  A.  D.  793  to  1868  Kyoto  was  the  capital 
city,  and  the  buildings  of  the  Mikado's  palace 
cover  many  acres.  But  of  far  greater  beauty  is 
the  former  castle  of  the  Shoguns  ;  without,  for- 
tress-like and  stern,  even  though  the  moat  was  in 
places  filled  with  lotus  in  the  glory  of  its  blos- 
soming ;  within,  full  of  art  and  magnificence.  In 
striking  contrast  to  the  plainness  of  the  palace, 
it  is  a  commentary  upon  the  relation  between 
Shoguns  and  nominal  Emperor  before  the  Revo- 
lution. Its  rooms  are  a  wilderness  of  golden 
screens  painted  by  famous  artists,  with  peacocks 


KYOTO  201 

and  pine-trees  of  natural  size,  tigers  and  strange 
birds.  The  celebrated  "wet  heron"  panel  is  not 
in  very  good  preservation,  though  still  marvelously 
fine ;  two  sparrows  upon  another  are  so  natural 
that  they  once  flew  entirely  away,  Okita  assured 
us,  coming  back  of  their  own  accord.  Special 
permission  must  be  obtained  to  enter  either  castle 
or  palace,  and  guests  inscribe  their  names  in  a 
book  within  the  gates,  where  also  may  be  read 
directions  respecting  behavior.  Visitors  are  ex- 
pected to  "leave  their  overcoat,  mitten,  stick, 
walking  -  cane  umbrella  or  whatever  they  take 
with  them  "  to  their  own  servants  or  the  attendant 
before  entering  the  buildings. 

The  shops  and  industries  of  Kyoto  —  who  can 
describe  or  resist  their  fascinations !  Delicious 
cups  of  tea  welcome  the  purchaser,  pretty  sayo- 
nara  attend  his  departure.  Memorable  are  the 
rare  and  odd  conceits  of  the  vases  and  bowls  of 
Seifu,  the  first  ceramic  artist  in  Kyoto,  and  de- 
scendant of  famous  potters ;  and  cloisonne"  to 
rejoice  the  soul  is  made  by  Namikawa.  Of  the 
same  name  as  the  inventor  of  cloisonne"  without 
wires  in  Tokyo,  the  two  are  alike  in  earnest  and 
poetic  feeling,  enthusiasm,  and  utter  absorption  in 
their  art. 

Namikawa's  house  is  an  education.  In  room 
after  room  of  spotless  neatness  and  beauty  sit  a 
few  workmen  on  the  floor,  each  with  a  tiny  table 


202  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

holding  wires,  enamel,  brushes,  and  all  the  para- 
phernalia of  the  art,  sliding  screens  of  glass  open- 
ing upon  a  garden  and  pond,  lovely  if  diminutive. 
Shrubs  and  flowers  conceal  an  odd  bamboo  fence 
shutting  out  the  city ;  the  pond  has  miniature 
rocky  cliffs  on  diversified  shores ;  gold-fish  and 
carp  swim  fearlessly  as  near  the  guest  as  possible ; 
brilliant  blossoms  brighten  a  corner. 

Upon  our  exclaiming  over  its  beauty,  the  dear 
old  artist  said  simply,  "  The  workmen  must  have 
it  to  rest  their  eyes."  Memory  called  up  the 
scenery,  with  a  few  noteworthy  exceptions,  pro- 
vided for  resting  the  eyes  of  those  employed  in 
American  industries,  —  piles  of  ashes  in  rear  en- 
closures, varied  by  tin  cans  and  an  occasional  old 
boot. 

This  prevailing  love  for  the  beautiful  in  all 
classes  in  Japan  was  well  illustrated  by  the  cook 
of  an  acquaintance  in  Kyoto,  an  illiterate  man 
whom  she  one  evening  discovered  sitting  quietly, 
long  after  the  hour,  beside  his  untouched  dinner. 
His  reply  to  her  question  as  to  why  he  forgot  his 
meal  time  was  characteristic.  As  he  pointed  to 
the  sky,  with  a  radiant  expression  on  his  worn  old 
face — "Who  could  eat,"  he  exclaimed,  "with  such 
a  sunset  as  that  to  look  at ! " 

Truly  we  should  entreat  that  apostles  and  mis- 
sionaries of  the  beautiful  be  sent  us  from  Japan. 

Namikawa's   cloisonne"    is  worthy   microscopic 


KYOTO  203 

study.  His  backgrounds  are  largely  rich  lapis- 
lazuli.  Shapes  and  decoration  have  much  variety, 
though  few  pieces  are  kept  on  hand,  this  famous 
work  being  largely  ordered,  or  bought  in  advance 
of  completion.  Of  the  specimens  finished,  several 
showed  white  cranes,  long  clusters  of  convention- 
alized wistaria  blossoms,  or  the  popular  iris.  The 
whole  process  of  making,  too,  was  watched,  from 
the  first  design  sketched  upon  the  copper  vase, 
to  the  final,  often  fifth  or  sixth  polishing  of  the 
repeatedly  fired  enamel. 

The  Nishimura  embroideries  were  as  fine  in 
their  way, — one  particular  screen  remaining  in 
memory  as  an  almost  perfect  work  of  art.  Its 
three  panels,  about  six  feet  high,  represented  in 
solid  stitches  a  thickly  wooded  hillside.  The  feel- 
ing for  each  sort  of  verdure  was  exquisitely  por- 
trayed, —  the  deep  pines  where  each  "  needle  "  was 
shown,  delicate  maples,  and  lighter  foliage,  yet 
the  whole  effect  broad  and  noble.  Above  the  hill 
was  a  pale  blue  sky  full  of  shreds  of  trailing  mist, 
some  of  which  had  drifted  down  across  the  trees,  — 
an  effect  constantly  seen  in  Japan,  —  while  in  the 
right-hand  panel  a  magnificent  waterfall  tumbled, 
white  and  foaming,  from  a  height,  flashing  through 
the  green  to  spread  itself  out  in  a  tumultuous 
brook  beneath,  flowing  off  and  away  through  the 
other  panels  of  this  masterpiece.  No  one  could 
imagine,  without  seeing  it,  that  embroidery  could 


204  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

be  so  wet,  or  a  cloud  of  stitches  so  filmy.  In 
quite  a  different  way,  Nishimura's  cut  velvets  are 
scarcely  less  beautiful.  Here,  design  and  coloring 
are  woven  into  the  fabric,  whose  threads  inclose 
tiny  copper  wires.  Finally  a  workman  with  a  small 
and  exceedingly  sharp  knife  cuts  carefully  along 
the  top  of  each  wire,  making  actual  velvet  of  por- 
tions to  be  rich  and  dark  in  effect,  but  leaving 
uncut  distant  Fuji,  skies,  pale  moons,  or  shining 
water.  The  wires  carefully  withdrawn,  a  modern 
but  most  lovely  work  of  art  is  produced. 

Although  vacation  time,  the  Doshisha  (One 
Purpose  Company)  was  visited,  that  university 
founded  by  the  late  and  greatly  beloved  Neesima, 
an  Amherst  graduate  of  1870;  and  the  girls' 
school  close  by,  where  a  few  pupils  and  teach- 
ers were  found.  The  girls  sang  for  us  some 
weird  native  melodies,  remarkable  harmonies  being 
supplied  by  a  foreign  teacher  at  a  small  organ. 
Harmonizing  Japanese  airs  is  an  almost  untried 
musical  field,  offering  many  curious  opportunities 
for  original  effects. 

In  the  eighth  year  of  Meiji  (1875)  the  Doshisha 
was  opened  at  Mr.  Neesima's  home,  with  eight 
pupils.  Through  untold  discouragements  this 
"  puritan  of  the  Orient "  struggled  on  with  his 
beloved  institution,  only  to  leave  it  at  his  death  in 
1 890  firmly  established  and  prosperous,  a  tangible 
legacy  from  his  devoted  life,  a  monument  to  the 


KYOTO  205 

pervasive  power  of  his  magnetic,  unswerving  per- 
sonality. Through  him  Amherst  College  had  be- 
come more  widely  known  in  Japan  than  perhaps 
any  other  institution,  even  before  its  later  gradu- 
ates, Kanda,  Kabayama,  Uchimura,  Sawayama,  and 
others  had  also  carried  its  fame  to  their  native 
land. 

The  Shinto  festivals  are  full  of  beauty,  despite 
the  original  simplicity  of  this  faith.  Happily 
timed  was  our  Kyoto  visit  for  one  of  these  char- 
acteristic celebrations,  a  typical  matsuri.  The 
special  day  was  July  seventeenth,  but  all  through 
the  week  the  city  wore  a  festive  air,  every  house 
showing  its  new  wooden  bracket  with  a  roof,  under 
which  hung  a  huge  lantern.  At  twilight  all  were 
lighted,  and  gay  drops  of  crimson  or  golden  bril- 
liance flamed  as  well  in  arches,  festoons,  high 
loops  along  the  buildings,  —  glowing,  pulsating, 
quivering  strings  of  tamed  and  decorative  fire  in 
luminous  figures.  It  was  a  fairy  scene 

The  evening  of  the  sixteenth  was  particularly 
fine.  Rockets  flew  hither  and  thither ;  countless 
globes  of  pale  or  scarlet  flame  in  double  rows  lined 
every  street,  theatres  were  ablaze  with  brightness 
and  gaudy  pictures,  sounds  of  music  and  drum 
coming  from  within  to  the  happy,  surging  crowd. 
Many  pictures  were  very  amusing,  —  one  showing 
a  huge  man  engaged  in  throwing  people  over  a 
precipice  who,  in  their  unwilling  descent,  took  all 


206  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

sorts  of  queer  oriental  attitudes.  Everybody  was 
full  of  merriment,  the  babies  out  in  full  force. 
Little  stands  for  shaved  ice  were  popular  centres, 
and  varieties  of  disastrous,  cooling  drinks  flowed 
freely. 

Dwelling-houses,  even  the  smallest,  were  in 
gala  array,  tiny  interiors  wide  open  to  the  street. 
Their  usual  straw  mats  were  quite  hidden,  some- 
times by  rugs,  more  often  by  heavily  woven  cotton 
with  white  storks  or  ducks  on  a  dull  red  ground. 
Exceedingly  decorative,  my  attempts  to  purchase 
one  always  failed,  their  owners  declaring  them 
heirlooms ;  very  old,  exceedingly  valuable,  greatly 
prized,  and  only  used  during  festivals. 

The  walls  of  every  room  were  hidden  by  hand- 
some gold  or  white  folding  screens,  painted  or 
embroidered,  the  hibachi  being  the  only  article 
which  might  be  termed  furniture  in  the  room. 
So  the  whole  effect  was  orderly  and  beautiful.  In 
daytime  the  house  fronts  were  decorated  with 
floating  curtains  or  strips  with  blue  and  white 
horizontal  bars  or  other  simple  design. 

The  universality  of  interest  in  the  festival,  the 
personal  eagerness  and  pleasure  shown  by  all,  were 
delightfully  refreshing. 

On  the  morning  of  the  seventeenth  an  invita- 
tion came  from  the  owner  of  a  house  on  the  route 
of  the  procession,  to  witness  it  from  his  roof. 
Upon  reaching  the  ridgepole,  sunshine  was  blind- 


A   "FLOAT"    IN    MATSURI    PROCESSION   AT   KYOTO 


KYOTO  207 

ingly  hot,  the  gray  tiles  scorching,  but  a  little 
platform  for  two  persons  was  shaded  by  a  big 
paper  umbrella  as  canopy,  and  a  brisk  breeze  tem- 
pered the  heat.  The  street  below  was  thronged, 
the  procession  just  having  reached  Narachu's 
house  as  we  arrived. 

High  wagons  or  "floats"  (dasJii)  draped  with 
superb  brocades  and  embroidered  temple-hangings 
went  slowly  by,  sometimes  surmounted  by  a  grow- 
ing pine  or  cedar,  or  perhaps  the  life-size  figure 
of  a  man  in  classic  armor  or  other  old  costume, 
engaged  in  brandishing  a  branch  of  cherry  blos- 
soms in  the  face  of  an  enemy  upon  imaginary 
battlefields  —  a  "  poetical  fellow,"  explained  Okita. 

Under  the  canopy  of  the  float  men  and  boys 
beat  rhythmically  on  small  drums,  singing  and 
throwing  tufts  or  branches  of  "good  luck  "  to  the 
crowd,  in  the  shape  of  green  leaves  enclosing 
sacred  rice-cakes.  At  the  front  of  one  float,  three 
girls,  thickly  powdered,  were  performing  some 
stately  ceremony ;  on  another  two  men  stood  on 
the  projecting  platform  dancing  fan  dances. 

Children  and  young  girls  taking  part  in  the 
festivals  are  not  allowed  to  carry  a  parasol  from 
their  houses  to  the  rolling  cars,  even  if  it  rains, 
and  not  infrequently  their  handsome  costumes  are 
quite  ruined.  Each  street  is  responsible  for  a 
float  drawn  by  coolies  living  in  its  precincts,  accom- 
panied by  gentlemen  on  foot  who  also  live  in  the 


208  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

street,  —  high-class  worshipers  at  the  temple,  in 
their  cool,  gray  silk  ceremonial  dress,  carrying 
fans  and  wearing  flat  straw  hats.  At  frequent 
halts  their  servants  set  down  little  stools  upon 
which  the  gentlemen  rested  for  a  few  minutes. 

The  huge,  unwieldy  wooden  wheels  have  no 
means  of  being  guided ;  so  a  coolie  or  two  crouched 
along  beneath  like  a  new  kind  of  coach  dog,  put- 
ting sticks  under  the  wheels  to  turn  them  slightly 
to  the  right  or  left  when  they  ran  too  near  the 
happy  crowd. 

'T  was  a  merry  time,  light-hearted  as  to  inhabi- 
tants, sunny  and  fragrant  as  to  weather,  pictur- 
esque and  characteristic  as  to  processions  and 
decorations.  Fair  Kyoto,  with  your  long,  long 
story,  your  immemorial  temples,  your  gay  religious 
festivals,  your  mountains  and  pines,  your  exquisite 
art,  your  gardens  and  river!  Beautiful  Kyoto, 
sayonara ! 


CHAPTER   XXI 

NARA 

Framed  in  the  prodigality  of  nature. 

SHAKESPEARE,  Richard  III. ,  i.  a. 

Nara,  the  Imperial  Capital, 
Blooms  with  prosperity, 
Even  as  the  blossom  blooms 
With  rich  color  and  sweet  fragrance. 

JAPANESE  POEM. 

A  HEAVY,  tropical  downpour  had  set  in,  with 
no  cessation  for  days.  Uji,  its  temples,  famous 
tea-plantations,  beautiful  lotus  pond,  and  Phoenix 
Hall  (a  reproduction  of  which  was  sent  to  the 
Exposition  at  Chicago)  were  seen  through  such  a 
whirl  of  descending  waters  that,  except  a  general 
impression  of  beauty,  its  memory  is  blurred  and 
misty.  Great  danger  of  floods  prevailed  all  over 
Japan,  breaks  in  the  railway  line  were  constantly 
reported,  and  Nara  was  no  exception  to  the 
general  condition,  looking  half  -  drowned  as  we 
approached  its  historic  groves. 

Rich  in  temples  and  monuments,  its  sitting 
Buddha,  fifty-three  feet  high,  is  larger  than  the 
one  near  Yokohama ;  the  rich  material  is  said  to 
abound  in  gold  and  silver,  yet  as  a  work  of  art  it 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


seems  less  impressive  than  the  Kamakura  Dai- 
butsu,  partly,  perhaps,  because  that  is  in  a  noble 
park,  while  the  one  at  Nara  is  dwarfed  by  the 
ancient  temple  inclosing  its  massive  proportions. 
An  escaping  thief  is  reported,  by  the  voluble 
coolies  about,  to  have  lived  safely  for  three  years 
by  sacrilegious  retirement  into  its  nose.  On  each 
side  are  figures  described  as  Myo-i-rin  kwannon, 
on  the  left,  "  watcher  of  the  noise  of  the  world," 
awaiting  with  calm  patience  one  word  of  wisdom 
or  eternal  truth  from  the  babel  of  humanity  ;  and 
on  the  right,  Kokuzo-bosatsu,  god  of  the  universe, 
holding  one  hand  aloft. 

Early  in  the  eighth  century  Nara  became  the 
capital,  and  was  thenceforth  known  as  Heijo,  or 
castle  of  tranquillity.  No  less  so  now,  more  than 
a  thousand  years  after,  "  the  noise  of  the  world " 
scarcely  comes  near  enough  to  its  peaceful  groves 
even  to  be  watched.  The  little  inn  was  charm- 
ing. The  rooms  opened  on  the  customary  out- 
side veranda,  whose  polished  floor  led  to  a  few 
wide  steps  of  green  turf,  —  the  entrance  to  a 
garden,  somewhat  larger  than  common,  where 
quaintly  arranged  stepping-stones,  bronze  storks 
in  various  attitudes,  and  groups  of  pine  and  bam- 
boo formed  the  foreground  for  a  placid  lake  lying 
beyond.  Still  beyond  was  a  thickly  wooded  shore, 
here  and  there  a  pagoda  or  temple-roof  amid  the 
trees,  and  mountains  over  which  drifting  cloud 


NARA  2ii 

laid  softly  trailing  fingers  of  mist  far  down  their 
green  sides,  "  as  if  one  might  climb  into  the  hea- 
venly region,  earth  being  so  intermixed  with  sky," 
as  Hawthorne  wrote  long  years  before  of  another 
land. 

Even  the  bronze  storks  looked  wilted  in  the 
continual  rain,  —  feathers  bedraggled,  attitudes 
dejected. 

A  noticeable  feature  of  Nara  is  its  tame  deer, 
wandering  in  street  and  park  and  temple  grounds. 
Secure  from  harm,  these  sacred  animals  walk 
confidingly  up  to  any  passing  jinrikisha,  in  anti- 
cipation of  a  liberal  meal,  which  the  rider  is  sup- 
posed to  purchase  from  women  standing  con- 
veniently near. 

The  Kasuga  temple  grounds  are  shaded  by 
enormous  and  aged  cryptomerias,  making  an  im- 
pressive archway.  The  sun  had  briefly  emerged, 
and  countless  rushing  brooks  and  cascades  filled 
this  lovely  spot  with  a  cool  murmur  of  falling 
water.  Mossgrown  stone  steps  lead  up  to 
shrine  after  shrine,  past  myriads  of  stone  lan- 
terns placed  as  offerings  by  the  devout,  or  in 
memory  of  friends,  —  perhaps  to  win  heavenly 
favor  for  themselves.  There  are  nearly  two  thou- 
sand of  these  lanterns,  tradition  relating  that  the 
oldest  was  given  by  Kobo  Daishi,  a  famous  priest 
and  author  of  the  Japanese  alphabet;  an  expert 
as  well  in  the  fine  art  of  penmanship.  He  con- 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


structed  the  alphabet  in  a  poem,  which  roughly 
translated  runs  :  — 

"Even    the  colors  of  flowers  decay,  and  this  world  is  like  a 

dream. 

Nothing  is  constant,  but  we  should  not  be  asleep  because  the 
world  is  like  a  dream." 

I-ro-ha,  the  Japanese  word  for  alphabet,  or  sylla- 
bary, opens  the  poem. 

We  chanced  on  a  special  day  at  Kasuga  Temple 
when  a  sacred  dance  was  just  being  performed 
by  young  girls,  whose  ceremony  was  exactly  and 
gracefully  executed ;  dignified  posturing  and  bow- 
ing, precisely  in  unison,  alternating  with  compli- 
cated evolutions  with  fans,  and  sticks  of  little 
bells.  Two  or  three  priests  sang,  and  played 
upon  flutes,  sometimes  a  perfect  sixth  above  the 
voices ;  so  there  was  actually  a  suggestion  of 
harmony  ;  though  more  often  an  interval  utterly 
unmusical  to  Western  ears. 

The  girls  were  heavily  powdered,  but  close  to 
their  hair  the  thick  whiteness  ended  abruptly  in 
a  curve  sharply  defined.  Their  eyebrows  were 
shaved,  painted  ones  high  on  the  forehead  giving 
a  curious  expression  of  wondering  innocence  ;  and 
their  black  hair,  ornamented  over  the  forehead 
with  large  white  artificial  flowers  and  twinkling 
pendants  of  gilt,  was  tied  tightly  back  and  allowed 
to  fall  straight  down  from  the  neck.  They  wore 
scarlet  skirts  and  white  kimono  with  figures  in 


STONE   LANTERNS   AND   CRYPTOMERIAS   AT   NARA 


NARA  213 

gold  and  blue ;  two  eri,  inside  kerchiefs  of  white 
and  of  scarlet,  lay  against  their  smooth  throats. 
Very  sober  and  dignified  were  these  maidens,  — 
as  utterly  in  earnest  as  the  solemn  priestesses  of 
the  tea  ceremony,  with  but  a  shadowy  smile  occa- 
sionally visible.  This  dance  is  called  kagura 
(heavenly  enjoyment).  I  paid  one  yen  for  my 
share  in  the  lofty  amusement,  and  a  yens  worth 
is  sufficient ;  but  if  one  choose,  he  may  stay  all 
day  and  spend  fifty  yen. 

Four  gods  are  worshiped  at  Kasuga  Temple, 
ancient  personages  in  Japanese  mythology  with 
memory-defying  names,  —  Takemikatsu  chi-no-mi- 
koto,  Futsunushi-no-mikoto,  Amatsukoyane-no-mi- 
koto ;  while  the  fourth  is  a  goddess,  Himiongami. 

For  over  seventy  years  Nara  remained  the  capi- 
tal of  Japan,  before  Kyoto,  but  the  Mikado's  local 
palace  has  long  since  disappeared.  Partly  burned, 
the  remainder  was  bought  and  carried  off  bodily 
by  merchants  and  carpenters,  for  use  in  building 
their  own  houses.  Altogether,  seven  emperors 
lived  in  Nara,  and  Kasuga  Temple,  built  by  Sho- 
toku,  stands  near  the  sacred  hill  Mykasa-yama, 
often  sung  in  Japanese  poetry. 

A  fine  pagoda,  nearly  as  large  but  not  so  richly 
carved  as  the  one  at  Nikko,  belongs  to  still  an- 
other temple,  the  Kobukuji ;  it  was  built  by  the 
Empress  Komyo,  over  a  thousand  years  ago  ;  and 
everybody  tells  you  that  a  superb  pine  before  it  is 
at  least  as  old. 


214  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Nara  possesses  also  a  very  sacred  though  rather 
restless  and  impatient  white  horse,  with  bright 
blue  eyes  and  bushy  mane,  an  albino  among  ani- 
mals, securely  fastened  in  a  very  small  shrine,  tail 
where  one  would  expect  the  manger.  But  it  is 
easy  for  the  passing  traveler  to  feed  him  with 
beans  for  a  quarter  of  a  cent,  and  to  worship  or 
not  as  he  chooses.  This  was  but  the  fifth  horse 
encountered  in  two  weeks,  so  we  were  not  forced 
to  grieve  actively  over  one  of  the  articles  in  our 
passports,  which  forbids  attending  fires  on  horse- 
back. Japan  is  a  land  of  fires,  but  not  of  saddle- 
horses. 

Struggling  masses  of  turtle,  goldfish,  and  carp 
contend  for  a  bit  of  bread  thrown  into  the  pond 
(Sarusawa  no  Ike) ;  a  sheet  of  water  chiefly  fa- 
mous because  centuries  ago  a  certain  young  girl 
at  the  palace,  thinking  she  had  lost  the  Emperor's 
affection,  here  drowned  herself.  The  monarch, 
coming  afterward  to  its  banks,  composed  in  her 
honor  a  poem,  now  cut  upon  a  stone  slab  standing 
some  distance  out  from  shore;  its  waters,  he 
recites,  can  never  become  dry,  because  composed 
of  the  maiden's  tears. 

Another  story  told  by  Nara  people  partakes 
more  of  the  supernatural.  A  certain  governor 
called  Shijo  caught  one  of  the  sacred  tortoises 
from  this  pond,  thinking  to  bake  it  in  his  pan, 
foreseeing  an  especially  delicious  meal.  But  when 


NARA  215 

he  took  off  the  cover  —  behold!  the  imprisoned 
dainty  had  taken  itself  off  miraculously,  saved  by 
compassion  of  the  god  of  Kasuga. 

Summer  rain  descended  softly  during  most  of 
our  days  at  Nara,  —  increasing  occasionally  to 
heaviest  tropical  intensity,  and  on  the  way  to 
Kobe  the  whole  country  was  practically  under 
water.  Rice-fields  and  gardens  were  submerged, 
little  houses  made-  islands  of  themselves,  and 
small  boys,  arrayed  with  simplicity  impossible  to 
excel,  paddled  about  ecstatically  among  trees  and 
over  fences.  We  afterward  found  that  the  entire 
island  was  seriously  flooded,  and  railway  travel 
everywhere  interrupted. 


CHAPTER   XXII 

YACHTING   IN   THE   INLAND    SEA 

A  level  floor  of  amethyst, 
Crowned  by  a  golden  dome  of  mist. 

LONGFELLOW. 

SINCE  it  had  been  found  impracticable  to  take 
the  Coronet  into  the  Inland  Sea  and  she  had  re- 
turned to  Yokohama,  the  Captain  had  chartered 
a  native  steamer,  the  Miyako-maru,  for  the  Sea 
trip,  a  craft  somewhat  larger  than  the  Coronet, 
and  carrying  a  crew  of  twenty-eight. 

Built  exclusively  for  native  use,  the  fittings  of 
the  Miyako-maru,  including  staterooms,  height  of 
ceilings,  and  galley  appointments,  were  diminutive 
in  scale ;  causing  much  merriment  in  the  com- 
pany, two  of  whom  occupied  the  saloon,  where 
they  could  stand  upright  if  directly  under  the 
skylight.  Ordinarily  that  apartment  would  carry 
thirty  or  forty  native  passengers.  But  the  vessel 
was  entirely  new,  and  satisfactory,  even  if,  as  in 
Japanese  inns,  lesser  toilet  arrangements  were  in 
the  public  eye,  and  confined  to  one  small  brass 
basin,  a  pitcher,  and  a  tumbler. 

Members  of  the  crew  were  greatly  interested  in 
the  foreigners,  which  class  they  had  heretofore 


YACHTING  IN  THE  INLAND  SEA  217 

had  slender  opportunity  to  observe,  —  nor  did  they 
neglect  the  occasion. 

The  unclassified  member  of  the  party  had  at 
last  to  face  a  genuine  division  of  the  ways.  To 
be  sure  of  seeing  the  eclipse,  now  two  weeks 
away,  she  must  start  at  once  upon  the  long  jour- 
ney to  Esashi,  more  than  fifteen  hundred  miles 
intervening  between  Kobe,  where  the  Miyako- 
maru  awaited  its  passengers,  and  expedition  head- 
quarters in  Kitami  Province.  But  starting  at  once 
meant  abandonment  of  the  trip  through  the  far- 
famed  Inland  Sea.  Methods  of  possible  travel  to 
northern  Yezo  were  an  unknown  quantity;  how 
many  days  would  be  used  in  getting  there  en- 
tirely uncertain.  Fear  of  being  late  for  the  eclipse 
prevailed,  and  reluctant  good-bys  were  therefore 
said  to  the  non  -  astronomical  friends  (who  still 
hoped  to  reach  Esashi  by  the  ninth  of  August)  at 
the  very  entrance  of  their  trip  through  Japan's 
enchanted  waters. 

Three  of  the  voyagers  upon  the  Miyako-maru 
have  kindly  lent  me  their  Inland  Sea  journals  in 
describing  certain  places  not  usually  visited  by 
foreigners,  and  a  combination  of  portions  of  the 
three  records  has  been  effected,  with  occasional 
verbatim  quotations. 

During  the  first  day  Awaji  was  passed,  which 
according  to  tradition  was  earliest  formed  of  all 
the  lovely  island  group  in  the  Sea ;  and  on  reach- 


2i8  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

ing  a  land-locked  harbor  on  the  south  shore  of 
Shodoshima,  the  Miyako-maru  cast  anchor  off 
Nomamura.  Near  by,  and  easily  reached  by  a 
short  row,  is  a  tiny  island  with  a  torii  and  a  neg- 
lected shrine  to  the  goddess  Benten. 

The  scenery  grew  constantly  more  beautiful 
as  hours  and  days  went  on,  islands  clustering  so 
thickly  that  "  exit  seemed  impossible,  and  entrance 
a  dream,"  strait  after  strait  opening  and  closing  in 
vistas  of  loveliness.  Inland  Sea  currents  were 
found  very  swift  in  places,  twisting  unwieldy  junks 
around  like  toy  boats.  Even  the  staunch  Miyako- 
maru  was  occasionally  forced  to  hug  the  shore. 

At  Tadotsu  much  curiosity  was  evinced  as  to 
the  strange  visitors ;  and  a  train  was  taken  there 
for  Kotohera,  to  visit  the  Shinto  temple  of  Kom- 
pira  on  a  green  hillside,  where  a  god  especially 
presiding  over  the  fortunes  of  seamen  is  wor- 
shiped with  unusual  zeal.  The  Miyako-maru's 
native  captain  repaired  thither  at  once,  paying  his 
devotions,  like  most  sailors,  with  much  fervor. 
Five  hundred  and  seventy-two  stone  steps  lead  to 
the  temple,  —  a  warm  climb  on  a  July  day.  All 
the  way  little  shops  offered  trinkets  for  pilgrims, 
and  sacred  horses  demanded  tribute  from  the 
faithful.  The  fine  view  and  breeze  rewarded  the 
travelers,  resting  at  the  summit  under  grand  old 
trees.  The  temple  is  simple ;  one  of  its  buildings 
contains  a  green  gohei,  the  paper  prayer  of  Shinto, 


YACHTING  IN  THE  INLAND  SEA  219 

and  a  mirror ;  there  are,  also,  many  paintings 
of  scenes  in  storms,  and  fanciful  accidents  from 
which  this  deity  is  supposed  to  rescue  his  faithful 
worshipers. 

On  a  point  just  beyond  Tomo  a  little  temple 
to  Kwannon  was  charmingly  situated,  approached 
by  a  covered  stairway.  Onomichi,  "  Tail  city,"  is 
stretched  along  the  narrow  channel  farther  on, 
with  several  fine  temples  on  the  hillside,  —  a  laby- 
rinth of  islands,  atmosphere  dreamy,  colors  exqui- 
site. 

Ondo  seto,  or  strait,  could  not  be  passed  until 
full  tide,  which  gave  opportunity  to  anchor  in  a 
little  bay  where  fishermen  were  spreading  a  net 
across  the  current,  singing  as  they  drew  it.  Pass- 
ing the  narrow  opening  at  any  time  seemed  an 
impossible  achievement.  The  "  hidden  door  "  is 
exceedingly  narrow,  the  current  swift.  On  one 
side  a  stone  lantern  stood  out  in  the  water ;  on 
the  other  a  village  so  near  that  a  pebble  might 
have  been  tossed  into  its  street. 

Wandering  at  one's  own  sweet  will  through  the 
beauties  of  the  Inland  Sea,  unrestricted  by  tra- 
ditions of  regular  trips  taken  by  average  tourists, 
is  undoubtedly  pleasant,  save  an  occasional  draw- 
back. The  native  captain  suggested  anchoring 
one  night  in  the  harbor  of  Kure  ;  during  the  late 
war,  and  still,  an  important  naval  station.  Re- 
strictions against  foreigners  are  so  severe  that 


220  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

special  passports  would  have  given  the  Coronet 
no  permission  to  enter  this  harbor;  but  as  the 
Miyako  -  maru  was  a  Japanese  vessel,  sailing 
through  these  halcyon  waters  under  the  full  sun 
flag,  no  trouble  was  anticipated.  The  journals 
tell  the  story  :  — 

"As  we  were  preparing  to  anchor,  a  launch 
from  the  station  came  out,  an  officer  boarding  and 
demanding  of  the  captain  what  he  meant  by  com- 
ing in  without  showing  special  signals,  giving  his 
name  and  other  information.  It  seems  that  all  ves- 
sels, even  in  passing  the  harbor,  must  show  these 
flags,  and  our  captain  had  committed  a  grave  mis- 
take, as  our  vessel  was  so  new  he  had  not  yet 
received  them  from  the  Admiralty.  He  was  in- 
formed that  in  this  case  he  had  no  right  to  come 
in  at  all  —  and  his  reasons  were  asked.  He  re- 
plied that  the  vessel  was  chartered  by  foreigners 
who  were  traveling  slowly  through  the  Inland 
Sea,  and  after  much  parley  as  to  our  purpose  and 
destination,  the  launch  returned  to  shore  for  in- 
structions from  the  head  officer.  It  soon  came 
back,  with  a  subordinate  officer  on  board  who 
marched  to  our  bridge  and  took  command,  order- 
ing us  back  through  Ondo  Strait.  Passing  the 
narrow  channel  once  more  in  safety,  he  remarked 
that  our  captain  was  apparently  experienced 
enough  in  these  waters  to  have  known  better 
than  to  make  the  awkward  blunder  of  entering 
Kure  harbor  without  his  flags. 


YACHTING  IN  THE  INLAND  SEA  221 

"We  cast  anchor  just  where  we  had  been  an 
hour  or  two  earlier,  and  then  heard  that  our  cap- 
tain must  be  taken  back  to  appear  before  the 
authorities  at  the  station. 

"  It  looked  seriously  as  if  we  might  be  delayed 
a  long  time,  as  the  captain  was  liable  to  a  fine  of 
at  least  $75.00  and  withdrawal  of  his  license  — 
even  possible  imprisonment ;  and  we  were  all 
practically  under  arrest,  and  might  not  be  able 
to  finish  our  cruise  in  time  to  get  to  the  eclipse 
station  in  Yezo. 

"  Expostulation  with  the  officer  now  began. 
The  objects  of  our  pleasure  trip  were  detailed, 
and  what  a  serious  matter  it  would  be  to  delay  us 
was  shown ;  our  special  passports  were  exhibited, 
also  letters  from  the  governor  of  Kobe  asking 
especial  courtesy  from  governors  of  all  these  pro- 
vinces. 

"  This  explanation  happily  worked  a  good  effect. 
In  consideration  of  the  papers  showing  what  'fa- 
mous fellows '  we  were,  he  said  he  would  let  the 
captain  off.  The  young  officer  was  very  polite 
all  through,  assuring  us  that  the  difficulty  did 
not  concern  us  in  the  least  except  in  delaying  us. 
Okita  added  to  possible  horrors  of  the  situation 
by  telling  us  that  the  captain's  children  would 
probably  have  been  given  away  for  adoption,  his 
wife  divorced,  and  the  home  broken  up.  Instead 
he  was  graciously  pardoned 


222  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

"  We  steamed  as  far  as  Nakashima  in  beautiful 
moonlight,  thinking  it  wiser  to  get  away  before  a 
possible  change  of  mind  at  the  naval  station.  But 
we  went  on  the  outer  side  of  this  island  instead  of 
braving  the  dangers  of  Ondo  Strait  for  a  third 
time.  We  all  sat  on  the  bridge  and  sang,  under  a 
brilliant  night  sky,  gliding  through  water  which 
sparkled  like  gold  lacquer." 

A  most  beautiful  as  well  as  celebrated  spot  in 
the  sea  is  the  sacred  island  of  Miyajima.  Ap- 
proach to  it  was  in  the  early  morning,  when  a 
rosy  mist  of  sunrise  lay  between  the  steamer  and 
the  hillside.  Close  to  the  shore  lay  boats  of  fish- 
ermen, who  sang  one  refrain  while  in  the  boat 
drawing  the  net,  and  another  when  pulling  it  up 
on  the  beach. 

The  island  is  unmistakable  from  its  unique  fea- 
ture, the  famous  torii_  of  camphor  wood,  which  at 
high  tide  stands  well  out  in  the  water.  And  it  is 
shrouded  in  an  atmosphere  of  more  legend  and 
romance  than  hovers  about  either  of  the  other 
famous  places,  which  with  it  comprise  the  san-kei, 
"three  great  sights  of  Japan." 

At  flood-tide  the  temple  seems  to  float  on  a  sil- 
ver sea ;  and  all  the  little  dwellers  of  the  deep 
pitch  their  tiny  tents  on  its  stone  piers.  Bridges 
and  galleries  connect  the  shrines  and  different 
buildings,  and  boats  can  be  rowed  up  to  the  very 
holy  of  holies.  When  the  tide  is  out,  stepping- 


YACHTING  IN  THE  INLAND  SEA  223 

stones  enable  the  pilgrim  to  go  through  the  courts 
in  more  prosaic  fashion. 

Built  sometime  in  the  sixth  century,  the  temple 
passed  from  Shinto  to  Buddhist  and  later  to 
Shinto  again,  and  fires  and  fanaticism  wrought 
sad  havoc.  The  relics  are  now  carefully  preserved 
and  watched ;  and  many  beautiful  things  have 
been  added  in  later  days.  Far  aside  from  the  line 
of  that  tourist  travel  which  has  despoiled  many 
another  spot  once  full  of  the  poetry  of  old  Japan, 
Miyajima  bids  fair  to  revel  in  legendary  atmo- 
sphere for  long  years  to  come,  —  with  sacred 
deer,  no  less  tame  and  half-human  than  the  pretty 
creatures  at  Nara,  with  innocent-hearted  priests, 
and  the  reposeful  silence  of  leafy  maple  groves. 

It  was  just  before  the  annual  matsuri,  which 
here  is  celebrated  upon  the  water,  with  boats  in- 
stead of  decorated  cars  as  elsewhere.  Preparation 
for  this  great  occasion  was  in  active  progress 
when  the  mystic  galleries  of  Miyajima  were  vis- 
ited. When,  on  festival  night,  eight  hundred 
lamps  of  the  temple  are  lighted,  and  masses  of 
people  assemble  with  songs  and  rejoicing,  it  is  a 
resplendent  scene,  depending  upon  high  tide  for 
point  of  departure. 

In  this  enchanted  island  no  one  dies,  and  no 
one  is  born.  Sadness  and  pain  are  ferried  across 
to  the  Aki  shore.  Blissful  serenity  has  been  its 
portion  for  centuries. 


224  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

Okita,  ever  faithful  to  the  proprieties,  although 
personally  lacking  any  marked  religious  prefer- 
ence, as  he  amiably  announced,  threw  a  glittering 
ten  sen  piece  into  the  shrine,  just  in  advance 
of  two  somewhat  aged  worshipers,  who,  clapping 
their  hands  to  attract  the  attention  of  the  god, 
muttered  some  unintelligible  prayer  probably  for 
good  luck.  Apparently  they  thought  the  deity 
had  smiled  upon  them  rather  quickly,  for  depos- 
iting one  rin  at  the  sacred  spot,  they  quietly 
removed  Okita's  bright  money,  making  by  this 
transaction  ninety-nine  rin.  As  they  were  calmly 
departing,  Okita,  notified  of  the  fraud  put  upon 
the  gods,  called  after  the  ancient  couple  energeti- 
cally that  they  had  taken  consecrated  money 
—  whereupon  returning,  they  smilingly  threw  it 
back. 

Shimonoseki  is  full  of  historic  interest,  from 
the  time,  in  the  third  century,  when  the  Empress 
Jingo  started  from  Toyoura  near  by  to  conquer 
Korea,  until  the  twelfth  century  and  the  battle  of 
Dannoura ;  more  recently  still,  the  bombardment 
of  Maida  by  the  allied  fleets  in  1863,  and  most 
lately  of  all  the  stirring  scenes  of  the  war  with 
China.  Fine  forts,  guarding  the  harbor  in  both 
directions,  fleets  of  junks  with  sails  spread,  and 
the  channel  shut  in  by  steep  hills  bristling  with 
black  guns,  offer  a  sharp  contrast  with  the  sunny 
silence  and  peaceful  enchantment  of  Miyajima. 


YACHTING  IN  THE  INLAND  SEA  225 

The  Miyako-maru  approached  the  city,  stretching 
three  miles  along  the  narrow  margin  of  land  be- 
tween sea  and  mountain,  through  a  strait  which 
was  a  scene  of  much  activity  during  the  Chinese 
war,  transport  ships  all  starting  there.  In  the 
Fujino  tea-house  opposite,  a  delicious  luncheon 
was  provided,  beneath  the  large  room  in  which 
the  treaty  with  China  was  signed,  April  i/th,  1895. 
Li  Hung  Chang  occupied  a  temple  close  by,  and 
in  the  street  outside  he  was  shot  while  being  car- 
ried in  his  kago  from  the  tea-house  to  the  temple. 
His  boys  ran  on  with  him  to  the  steps,  and  alight- 
ing, he  remarked,  as  blood  trickled  down  his  face, 
that  he  doubted  if  ever  before  a  foreign  ambassa- 
dor had  been  assassinated  while  negotiating  a 
treaty.  Count  Ito,  and  Count  Mutsu,  formerly 
minister  at  Washington,  stayed  at  the  Daikichi, 
an  inn  on  the  principal  street,  below  the  tea- 
house. 

At  evening  the  voyagers  asked  for  an  upper 
room  as  a  "  moon-gazing "  place,  thus  gaining  a 
fine  sight  of  the  full  moon  rising  over  the  hills 
across  the  strait.  Shimonoseki  is  picturesque  at 
night,  with  paper  lanterns  swinging  in  the  breeze, 
but  not  overclean  or  fra*grant. 

Clothing  in  these  regions  was  scanty,  —  occa- 
sionally a  woman  was  happily  taking  her  bath  in 
a  tub  set  in  the  middle  of  a  street.  One's  mod- 
esty seems  able  to  survive  seeing  people  with 


226  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

slight  raiment,  or  with  almost  none  at  all,  but 
when  in  addition,  as  sometimes  happens,  they 
shave  their  heads,  it  becomes  positively  shocking. 

A  place  even  less  conventional  was  Beppu,  on 
the  return  voyage  to  Kobe.  Kiushiu  Island  is 
famous  for  hot  alkali  baths,  supposed  to  cure 
leprosy  and  other  ills.  Here  men,  women,  and 
children  were  partaking  of  this  benefit  indiscrimi- 
nately, in  the  public  tanks,  while  in  a  large  build- 
ing sat  others  waiting,  their  clothing  left  neatly 
in  boxes  along  the  wall.  From  the  deck  of  the 
Myako-maru  people  could  be  seen  bathing  on  the 
beach,  digging  holes  for  themselves  in  the  sand, 
or  sitting  in  the  warm  water  with  umbrellas  over 
their  heads. 

A  police  officer,  sent  on  board  to  make  sure 
that  all  was  right,  seemed  rather  confused  at 
sight  of  foreigners,  and  being  shown  the  pass- 
ports was  manifestly  unable  to  determine  what  to 
do  with  them.  He  confessed  frankly  at  length 
that  he  had  never  seen  one  before.  On  shore 
Americans  were  equally  strange,  and,  as  in  all 
remote  Japanese  towns,  troops  of  people,  young 
and  old,  followed  in  a  lively  procession. 

The  intention  was  to  remain  anchored  off 
Beppu  until  midnight,  that  Matsuyama  might  be 
reached  early  in  the  morning.  But  at  evening, 
the  sailors  having  had  leave  during  the  day,  which 
was  Sunday,  the  Miyako-maru  became  the  scene 


YACHTING  IN  THE  INLAND  SEA  227 

of  various  incidents.  The  journals  again  tell  the 
story :  — 

"  Most  of  the  under  officers  and  crew  had  been 
drinking  sake  on  shore.  Being  in  port,  neither 
captain  nor  first  officer  seemed  to  have  proper 
control.  We  attempted  to  keep  back  one  of  the 
men  who  tried  to  come  aft  without  his  clothes ; 
one  of  his  friends  took  his  part ;  sampans  along- 
side were  selling  more  sake ;  and  as  the  crew 
gradually  came  on  board,  girls  from  the  tea-houses 
escorting  them,  shouts  and  hilarity  from  forward 
grew  apace.  Lest  the  entertainment  should  wax 
riotous  we  decided  to  weigh  anchor  and  get  off  at 
once,  thinking  it  less  safe  to  remain  than  to  trust 
the  navigation  of  a  drunken  crew. 

"Accordingly  the  whistle  was  blown  and  the 
siren  given,  but  it  was  not  until  eleven  o'clock 
that  all  were  on  board,  and  we  could  start.  We 
took  turns  on  the  watch  all  night,  —  some  on  the 
bridge,  others  at  the  engine  room ;  while  the 
Doctor  slept  across  the  entrance  of  the  saloon  as 
a  guard  to  the  ladies  :  a  sort  of  '  devil  protector.' 
Sunday  rest  was  not  found  beneficial  to  the  crew. 

"  When  we  awakened  at  five  o'clock  the  men 
were  at  work  as  usual,  and  everything  apparently 
quiet.  We  abandoned  Matsuyama,  on  the  island 
of  Shikoku,  being  afraid  to  give  the  crew  leave 
again.  Instead  we  went  straight  on  to  the  whirl- 
pool between  Shikoku  and  AwajL 


228  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

"  Anchoring  off  Tubi,  a  sampan  took  us  to  see 
the  rushing  current  of  Naruto  Channel,  —  less  a 
sight  than  anticipated,  probably  because  the  tide 
was  setting  in  the  wrong  direction.  Landing 
after  a  hard  pull,  we  scrambled  over  boulders 
like  the  New  England  coast,  and  up  a  steep  hill, 
where  a  fine  view  was  met,  of  islands,  strait,  and 
far  blue  sea.  After  this  an  ideal  cruise  back  to 
Kobe,  where  home  messages  again  annihilated 
space  and  time." 


CHAPTER   XXIII 

EXPEDITION    EXPERIENCES 

O,  what  a  load 

Of  care  and  toll, 

By  lying  use  bestowed, 

From  his  shoulders  falls  who  sees 

The  true  astronomy, 

The  period  of  peace. 

EMERSON,  The  Celestial  Love, 

Ah !  well  I  mind  the  Calendar ; 
Faithful  through  a  thousand  years. 

EMERSON,  May-Day. 

THE  northern  voyagers  had  made  no  sign  for 
many  days,  except  an  occasional  telegram  as  to 
progress  in  the  novel  journey.  But  just  as  I  was 
starting  for  Esashi,  and  the  travelers  in  the  south 
were  about  to  embark  upon  the  Inland  Sea,  and 
the  experiences  related  in  the  last  chapter,  a  jour- 
nal arrived,  in  which  Chief  had  minutely  chroni- 
cled, for  our  edification,  an  account  of  the  daily 
adventures  of  these  scientific  gentlemen. 

Beginning  faithfully  with  their  departure  by 
train  from  Tokyo  in  the  heat  of  that  first  day  of 
July,  the  outline  of  their  story  follows,  in  the 
veracious  words  of  their  historian  :  — 

.  .  .  "The  cook  was  in  a  second-class  car  and 
the  mechanic  in  a  third-class  car,  and  our  grub  in 


230  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

the  baggage  car.  Stops  were  so  short  and  our 
command  of  the  language  so  limited  that  to  get 
either  the  cook  or  the  mechanic  out  in  time  to 
tell  the  baggage-master  that  we  wanted  to  get 
out  a  package  seemed  a  very  serious  undertaking, 
and  several  stations  were  passed  without  anything 
accomplished  in  the  commissary  department. 
About  four  o'clock  a  man  came  along  with  pack- 
ages of  Japanese  luncheon,  consisting  of  two  neat 
wooden  boxes,  one  containing  cooked  rice,  the 
other  a  variety  of  other  food,  such  as  daikon, 
ginger  root,  a  kind  of  omelet,  seaweed, — which 
looked  like  fine-cut  tobacco  and  tasted  as  though 
the  same  had  been  soaked  in  fish  oil ;  also  a  kind 
of  dark  brown  substance  of  the  consistency  of 
jujube  paste,  but  of  quite  a  different  flavor.  We 
invested  in  some  of  this,  —  but  there  was  plenty 
left.  Then  we  all  became  thirsty.  There  was  a 
small  table  in  the  middle  of  the  car  supplied  with 
a  pot  of  water,  and  three  tumblers.  We  were 
afraid  to  drink,  and  here  your  devoted  servant 
distinguished  himself  by  volunteering  to  get  beer. 
"At  the  next  station  he  found  quart  bottles 
that  looked  as  if  they  contained  beer,  and  he  un- 
derstood the  girl  to  say  they  contained  beer ;  so 
he  bought  them  and  returned  to  the  car  trium- 
phantly. Upon  opening  the  first  bottle,  however, 
it  was  not  beer,  but  sake.  We  mixed  some  of  this 
with  the  water  and  drank,  but  with  sad  counte- 


EXPEDITION  EXPERIENCES  231 

nances.  It  naturally  followed  that  the  others 
'had  fun'  with  Chief. 

..."  Soon  after  this  a  determined  attempt  was 
made  to  get  at  the  package  of  eatables.  No  one 
could  remember  the  size  or  shape  of  it,  so  it  was 
necessary  to  get  into  the  baggage  car  and  make  a 
thorough  search.  Andrew  had  the  checks.  At 
the  next  station  I  hunted  up  the  cook,  and  the 
mechanic  appeared  from  somewhere ;  by  the  time 
we  got  the  baggage  master  to  understand  the  sit- 
uation it  was  time  to  start  again.  Finally  by  lock- 
ing Andrew  up  with  the  baggage  master  from 
one  station  to  the  next  we  found  it. 

"About  this  time  they  lugged  out  the  little 
table  containing  water,  and  replaced  it  by  one  con- 
taining an  outfit  for  tea. 

"  We  made  a  nice  evening  meal  with  crackers, 
potted  quail,  tea,  and  so  on. 

"  There  was  room  enough  in  the  car  for  us  par- 
tially to  stretch  out  for  our  night's  rest,  and  sleep 
came  sooner  or  later.  I  was  some  time  getting 
into  the  land  of  dreams,  and  it  required  some 
miles  to  take  all  of  me  away  from  Yokohama  har- 
bor and  the  Coronet. 

"  The  next  day  was  cool  and  comfortable,  and 
we  arrived  in  good  shape  on  time  at  Aomori. 
There  was  plenty  of  irksome  duty  here,  finding 
carts  and  sampans  to  get  our  traps  from  the  sta- 
tion to  the  steamer  for  crossing  the  strait  to 


232  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Hakodate.  We  all  had  to  act  as  vanguards  or 
rearguards  to  see  that  nothing  was  lost. 

"  On  the  steamer,  finding  that  no  food  of  any 
kind  could  be  obtained,  we  decided  to  return  to 
the  town  and  take  supper  at  the  tea-house.  We 
were  able  to  get  omelet,  boiled  eggs,  chicken  cut 
into  small  pieces  and  cooked  with  onions,  the  lat- 
ter being  very  good,  except  they  had  put  sugar  in 
it.  As  you  were  not  here  to  give  me  a  game  of 
chess,  I  partook  freely  of  everything. 

"  We  had  a  very  merry  time  here.  Everybody 
tried  to  speak  the  language,  and  the  girls  in  wait- 
ing were  inclined  to  be  sociable.  When  Andrew 
and  one  of  them  conversed,  one  in  Russian,  the 
other  in  Japanese,  it  was  very  amusing.  .  .  .  We 
returned  to  the  steamer  about  9.30,  sailing  at  ten 
for  Hakodate,  and  arriving  there  at  five  in  the 
morning. 

"At  Hakodate  we  found  our  special  steamer 
had  not  yet  arrived,  so  we  landed  everything. 
Fortunately  the  hotel  was  near  the  pier,  and  there 
was  not  much  trouble.  About  nine  o'clock  the 
steamer  arrived,  and  Mr.  Thompson  came  on 
shore.  [He  had  gone  with  the  apparatus  from 
Yokohama  all  the  way  by  water.]  They  had  had 
rough  weather.  In  the  night  the  packages  got 
adrift,  and  one  of  them  struck  Mr,  Thompson  on 
the  head,  making  a  slight  wound.  He  is  all  right 
now.  As  pro  tcmpore  doctor  of  the  expedition  I 
examined  him,  and  so  report.  .  .  . 


EXPEDITION  EXPERIENCES  233 

"  Otaru,  July  4th.  In  the  afternoon  I  went  with 
the  Professor  by  rail  to  Sapporo.  .  .  .  We  went 
to  a  large  hotel  on  the  European  plan,  and  were 
delighted  to  find  delicious  strawberries  and  fine 
cherries.  Before  dinner  we  called  on  the  governor 
of  Hokkaido.  .  .  .  Sapporo,  July  5th.  Soon  after 
breakfast  the  governor  arrived  with  Mr.  Nozawa, 
who  has  since  been  detailed  to  accompany  us  and 
remain  a  few  days  at  our  station.  Everything  we 
expected  was  accomplished.  The  governor  will 
write  to  the  local  governor  at  Esashi  to  receive  us 
and  assist  to  the  best  of  his  ability.  Soon  after 
the  governor  left,  Professor  Nitobe  called  on  Pro- 
fessor Todd.  He  is  connected  with  the  Imperial 
Agricultural  College  at  Sapporo,  and  he  married 
an  American  lady  from  Philadelphia.  Professor 
Todd  returned  with  him.  Otaru,  July  6th.  Left 
for  Otaru  at  9.35  A.  M.  in  company  with  Mr.  No- 
zawa, above-mentioned.  He  is  to  remain  with  us 
a  few  days,  and  afterward  make  a  tour  of  inspec- 
tion through  certain  portions  of  Hokkaido  in  the 
interests  of  fisheries  and  oyster  beds.  Also  I  had 
with  me  the  student  Mr.  Oshima,  and  a  police  offi- 
cial, as  permanent  guard  at  Esashi.  .  .  .  We  sailed 
about  2.30.  The  captain  and  officers  are  agree- 
able, and  do  everything  for  our  comfort.  It  is  very 
cool  up  in  this  region  —  too  cool  for  comfort,  in 
fact.  There  is  much  talk  about  the  flies  and  mos- 
quitoes we  are  expected  to  encounter  in  camp. 


234  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

The  prospect  of  being  enveloped  in  a  veil  of  net- 
ting hanging  from  the  rim  of  one's  hat,  and  hav- 
ing the  face  anointed  with  a  mixture  of  castor  oil 
and  tar,  is  not  inviting.  .  .  .  Some  work  is  being 
done  on  board.  A  heavy  wooden  frame  for  coun- 
terbalancing the  three-story  instrument  platforms 
is  in  process  of  construction,  and  parts  of  the  pipe 
connection  are  being  screwed  together  to  save 
time  at  the  station. 

"  At  sea,  July  7th.  ...  A  strong  wind  blowing 
and  the  sea  coming  up.  About  8  A.  M.  we  ran 
into  a  place  called  Wakkanai,  to  telegraph  to  Esa- 
shi  as  to  sea  and  weather  at  that  port,  as  there  is 
no  harbor  at  that  place,  and  it  would  be  impossi- 
ble to  unload  our  traps  with  the  present  condi- 
tions. .  .  .  We  are  to  wait  in  this  locality  until 
there  is  a  change  of  weather.  I  don't  like  it. 
Professor  Todd  takes  it  calmly,  however,  and  we 
are  doing  pretty  good  work  on  board.  I  have 
donned  my  overalls  and  jacket  and  help  a  little. 

"July  8th.  .  .  .  The  weather  moderating  to- 
ward night  we  got  under  way  with  the  intention  of 
feeling  our  way  to  Cape  Soya,  and  anchoring  just 
inside  the  cape  if  too  rough  to  venture  outside. 

"July  Qth.  Just  a  solid  month  before  the 
eclipse.  We  did  not  go  outside  last  night,  the 
wind  having  increased  somewhat ;  about  ten  o'clock 
this  morning,  however,  we  started  for  Esashi.  It 
was  rough  work  rounding  the  Cape  Horn  of 


EXPEDITION  EXPERIENCES  235 

Japan.  .  .  .  Esashi,  July  loth.  This  has  been  an 
eventful  day,  inasmuch  as  we  have  finally  reached 
Esashi,  taken  possession  of  our  camp,  have  every- 
thing unloaded  and  under  cover.  Professor  Todd 
and  Mr.  Nozawa  went  on  shore  early  in  the  morn- 
ing, met  the  local  governor,  and  arranged  every- 
thing at  short  order.  .  .  .  The  town  itself  is  not 
very  large,  a  fishing  village,  one  or  two  Japanese 
hotels,  a  few  shops.  There  is  a  very  strong  odor 
of  fish,  but  our  place  has  it  less  than  elsewhere. 
There  are  small  flies  about,  but  I  have  n't  heard 
any  complaints  from  members  of  the  party,  and 
neither  netting,  castor  oil,  nor  tar  has  been  men- 
tioned as  yet.  However,  it  is  still  cool,  and  the 
wind  is  from  the  sea.  .  .  .  The  cook  has  such  a 
display  of  hams,  bacon,  etc.,  in  his  quarters  that  it 
looks  like  a  corner  grocery.  .  .  .  The  Commandant 
of  the  Alger  and  the  French  astronomers  have 
called,  also  the  governor  of  this  province. 

"Saturday,  July  nth.  The  day  has  been  con- 
sumed in  getting  up  the  piers  for  the  main  station, 
setting  up  tents,  and  opening  crates  that  contain 
the  portable  house.  The  weather  has  cleared  up 
nicely,  and  the  sun  was  out  at  eclipse  time  this 
afternoon.  .  .  . 

"Sunday,  July  I2th.  Just  four  weeks  before 
the  eclipse.  It  is  a  clear  day,  warm  in  the  sun, 
but  cool  in  the  shade.  .  .  .  Tell  'Doc'  that  I 
came  near  having  a  serious  case  in  my  capacity  as 


236  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

assistant  surgeon.  A  day  or  two  ago  one  of  the 
party  tumbled  over  a  pile  of  tent  poles,  and  came 
down.  He  did  n't  get  up  at  once,  and  said  his  leg 
was  out  of  joint  at  the  knee.  Instantly  after  he 
said  'It 's  all  right,  it  has  slipped  back  into  place.' 
I  was  much  bothered 'when  it  first  happened, — 
I  knew  something  should  be  done  at  once,  but 
whether  to  have  him  pulled  out  straight  or  dou- 
bled up  I  was  n't  sure.  As  he  was  already  doubled 
up  I  think  the  first  would  have  been  proper. 
When  he  said  '  all  right '  I  promptly  produced  the 
Pond's  Extract  and  recommended  rest.  .  .  . 

"  July  1 3th.  This  morning  I  came  to  the  front 
again  rather  unexpectedly.  I  had  started  work  on 
those  everlasting  plate-holders  again,  when  Profes- 
sor Todd  called  out  that  my  professional  services 
as  doctor  were  requested  at  the  French  camp. 
One  of  the  sailors  was  ill,  the  Alger  had  gone  off 
for  a  few  days,  and  they  had  no  surgeon.  So  I 
took  my  bottles  and  paper  of  instructions  that 
'  Doc '  provided,  and  went  up  there  with  Professor 
Todd,  and  the  assistant  who  came  down  for  me. 
I  explained  that  I  was  not  really  possessed  of  a 
medical  education,  but  they  were  welcome  to  the 
medicine  and  the  directions  for  use.  .  .  .  While 
there  they  wished  me  also  to  look  at  a  sick  sheep. 
They  have  a  number  of  sheep  in  a  tent.  I  felt 
the  sheep's  pulse,  but  doubt  if  I  got  hold  of  the 
right  leg.  I  recommended  rest.  .  .  .  This  after- 


EXPEDITION  EXPERIENCES  237 

noon  the  report  comes  that  both  parties  are  about 
the  same.  I  'm  thankful  they  're  no  worse. 

"July  I4th.  We  have  two  flag-poles  erected, 
one  for  the  stars  and  stripes,  with  Amherst  colors, 
and  the  other  for  the  Japanese  flag.  They  are 
symmetrically  placed  at  the  ends  of  our  inclosure. 
...  I  hear  from  Professor  Todd  that  at  a  meet- 
ing of  the  good  citizens  of  this  place,  it  was  voted 
that  on  eclipse  day  there  should  be  no  wood  fires 
made.  Either  cooking  will  be  done  the  day  before, 
or  charcoal  used  in  place  of  wood.  This  is  to 
secure  a  clear  atmosphere.  Work  on  the  portable 
house  goes  slowly.  Theoretically  it  should  be  put 
together  in  a  few  hours.  Practically  it  takes  a 
good  while  to  get  things  to  fit.  ...  I  find  myself 
feeling  a  little  depressed  to-night.  The  cook  gave 
us  some  Japanese  soup  for  supper.  Perhaps  it 's 
that.  .  .  . 

"July  1 6th.  The  portable  house  is  about  fin- 
ished outside.  The  different  tubes  for  the  lenses 
are  being  made  ready  to  be  bolted  on  to  the  plat- 
form, and  lots  of  small  work  —  overhauling  and 
adjusting  the  plate  mechanisms  —  is  going  on.  ... 
We  had  some  washing  done.  Of  course  we  don't 
mind  such  a  little  thing  as  undershirts  starched 

and  trousers  creased  the  wrong  way My 

duties  to-day  have  been  verily  like  that  of  Jack-at- 
all-trades.  I  have  taken  up  electrical  business, 
connecting  galvanic  batteries.  Then  I  play  car- 


238  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

penter,  and  screw  small  boxes  on  to  a  wheel ;  then 
I  paint  a  lot  of  square  pieces  of  wood ;  and  from 
that  I  go  to  cutting  out  rectangular  pieces  of 
black  velvet,  and  gluing  them  on  to  the  inside  of 
the  boxes.  .  .  .  As  to  affairs  out  in  town  —  there 
seems  to  be  a  great  scarcity  of  small  change.  It 
is  impossible  to  get  even  a  yen  changed.  To  make 
a  small  purchase  at  the  shop  near  here,  I  had  to 
leave  the  yen  and  take  a  due-bill  for  the  balance, 
to  be  traded  out  afterward.  .  .  .  The  others  still 
run  me  a  little  about  mess  affairs.  At  the  table 
when  anything  appears  they  say,  'What 's  this  com- 
ing, Chief  ? '  As  I  have  n't  the  least  idea  what  it 
is,  I  say,  'A  little  surprise  for  you  to-day.'  When 
I  do  say  anything  to  the  cook  there  seems  to  be  a 
misunderstanding.  Seeing  onions  for  sale  in  town 
I  suggested  that  we  have  some  occasionally.  The 
very  next  night,  as  a  last  course,  when  we  usually 
have  canned  fruit  or  preserves,  he  served  up  two 
stewed  onions  to  each  of  us.  They  were  very 
nice,  but  why  didn't  they  come  earlier  in  the 
meal  ?  .  .  . 

"  July  29th.  There  has  been  quite  a  little  ex- 
citement in  our  town  to-day.  A  few  days  ago  the 
village  officer  or  mayor  went  to  Mombetsu  to  get 
the  Emperor's  portrait.  It  has  been  presented  to 
the  village  school.  A  new  schoolhouse  is  to  be 
dedicated  on  the  nth  of  August,  and  the  picture 
is  then  to  be  displayed.  Now  it  seems  that  when 


EXPEDITION  EXPERIENCES  239 

the  Emperor's  portrait  travels  about,  it  must  be 
treated  with  the  same  respect  as  himself  would  be. 
So  this  afternoon  there  has  been  a  little  ceremony 
connected  with  the  landing  of  the  portrait  from 
the  steamer. 

"  A  new  sampan,  having  a  canopy  draped  about 
with  purple,  and  roofed  with  white  bunting,  was 
towed  out  to  the  steamer,  by  another  sampan 
pulled  by  a  large  number  of  men.  Plenty  of  flags 
displayed,  of  course,  on  both  sampans,  and  also 
many  flags  and  red  and  white  lanterns  shown 
along  the  streets.  The  portrait  was  inclosed  in 
a  square  box,  covered  with  white  cloth  and  fur- 
nished with  four  legs ;  and  two  poles  were  fas- 
tened to  it,  so  it  could  be  carried  on  the  shoulders 
of  two  men.  All  along  the  route  from  the  landing 
to  the  schoolhouse,  little  hills  of  sand  had  been 
previously  placed.  Just  before  the  procession 
started,  these  were  made  into  a  path,  so  that  the 
Emperor  would  have  had  new  soil  to  walk  on  had 
he  not  been  his  picture.  The  box  was  carried  by 
men  in  white  kimono  and  black  hats  shaped  some- 
thing like  a  bishop's  mitre.  The  school  children 
with  their  holiday  clothes  and  unusually  clean 
faces  looked  quite  sweet.  They  were  marched 
down  to  the  landing  and  formed  into  two  lines, 
the  girls  on  one  side,  and  the  boys  on  the  other. 
As  the  portrait  passed,  the  entire  school  chanted 
slowly  the  Japanese  national  anthem.  Afterward 


240  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

they  re-formed,  and  followed  it  to  the  schoolhouse. 
I  could  not  avoid  the  impression  that  they  were 
going  to  bury  it  somewhere.  .  .  . 

"July  3 1 st.  We  are  looking  for  Mrs.  Todd 
daily  now.  .  .  .  Professor  Todd  told  me  yesterday 
that  he  thought  everything  was  going  on  well, 
and  that  all  he  had  planned  would  be  finished  in 
time. 

"August  ist.  A  steamer  arrived  from  Otaru, 
but  Mrs.  Todd  was  not  on  board,  neither  did  it 
bring  us  letters. 

"August  2d.  This  would  have  been  a  good 
eclipse  day.  Advantage  was  taken  of  the  sun's 
presence  to  run  the  glycerine  clock.  Professor 
Todd  is  very  much  pleased  with  its  action. 

"  August  3d.  Only  five  more  working  days  be- 
fore the  day  that  must  bring  us  the  Corona  or 
bitter  disappointment.  To-day  has  been  fine  for 
the  most  part.  At  eclipse  time  the  sun  was  out 
in  good  shape. 

"  August  5th.  Mrs.  Todd  arrived  this  morning, 
and  we  were  all  glad  to  see  her.  We  are  very 
busy,  but  hopeful.  There  is  a  chance  to  send  let- 
ters, so  I  have  caught  a  few  minutes'  time  to  close 
this  last  installment  of  my  journal  and  send  it.  I 
have  n't  corrected  the  proof,  so  make  out  the  best 
you  can." 


CHAPTER   XXIV 

THE   TIDAL   WAVE 

Ruin  itself  stands  still  for  lack  of  work, 
And  Desolation  keeps  unbroken  Sabbath. 

Left  by  one  tide  and  cancelled  by  the  next. 

JAMES  MONTGOMERY,  The  Pelican  Island. 

Yet  must  thou  hear  a  voice,  —  Restore  the  dead ! 
Earth  shall  reclaim  her  precious  things  from  thee  :  — 
Restore  the  dead,  thou  sea ' 

FELICIA  HEMANS,  The  Treasures  of  the  Deep. 

WHILE  the  expedition  was  thus  setting  up  its 
apparatus,  writing  journals  for  comrades  in  the 
main  island,  and  preparing  for  the  eclipse  at 
Esashi  —  while  the  Inland  Sea  party  was  still 
exploring  the  remote  bays  and  straits  of  those 
fairy  waters,  and  studying  the  native  character 
under  new  conditions,  I  was  hastening  northward 
from  one  to  the  other. 

In  looking  about  for  a  guide  or  interpreter  to 
accompany  me  to  the  far  wilds  of  Yezo,  I  had 
been  fortunate  in  meeting  a  young  Japanese,  for- 
merly a  student  at  the  Doshisha  in  Kyoto,  who 
speaks  excellent  English,  and  is  a  good  French 
and  German  scholar  as  well.  He  particularly 
loves  astronomy,  has  used  the  telescope  at  the 
University,  and  is  a  member  of  a  well  known 


242  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

German  Society.     As  for  astronomical  books  in 
English,  he  has  read  much  ;    Newcomb,   Cham- 
bers, Ball,  Miss  Clerke,  and  their  brotherhood  — 
all  are  equally  familiar  to  him. 

Modern  methods  of  observing  an  eclipse  he 
had  longed  to  see,  as  well  as  the  phenomenon  it- 
self. Although  his  social  position  as  student  and 
teacher  is  far  above  that  of  interpreter,  he  was 
willing  to  go  in  that  capacity,  even  running  the 
risk  of  temporary  caste  misinterpretation,  for  the 
sake  of  seeing  the  astronomers  and  their  work  at 
Esashi  His  father  was  once  chief  of  the  island 
of  Shikoku  in  the  Inland  Sea,  and  the  boy's  whole 
life  has  been  spent  in  arduous  study. 

Difficulties  in  learning  scholarly  Japanese  alone 
are  very  great,  even  to  a  native  ;  and  it  is  said  to 
require  no  less  than  seven  years  for  a  child  to  be- 
come sufficiently  familiar  with  Chinese  characters 
to  use  them  easily.  Besides  the  purely  Japanese 
alphabet,  invented  by  Kobo  Daishi,  it  is  necessary 
to  know  about  twenty  thousand  characters  before 
the  classics  can  be  intelligently  read,  even  news- 
papers making  use  of  twelve  thousand. 

These  must  be  memorized,  and  the  eye  and 
hand  trained  to  distinguish  and  delineate  the  faint- 
est curve  or  variation  in  a  line.  With  their  own 
literature  rich  in  fiction,  fable  or  mythology,  le- 
gend, and  poetry,  it  was  no  wonder  that  all  this 
and  a  good  knowledge  of  other  languages  and  lit- 


THE    TIDAL    WAVE  243 

eratures  filtered  through  it,  should  have  made 
Murakami-san's  cheeks  pale  and  thin,  his  physical 
vitality  largely  burned  out  by  over-exercise  of 
brain.  But  he  admitted  no  fatigue  of  any  kind, 
and  started  joyfully  on  the  long  journey  to  inter- 
pret as  might  be  required. 

Very  quiet  and  retiring,  he  preferred  Japanese 
food  on  steamer  and  train,  staying  quite  by  him- 
self except  when  needed,  —  practically  little  for 
many  days  ;  for  a  few  Japanese  words  go  far,  most 
officials  speak  English  in  varying  degrees,  and 
travel  is  comparatively  easy  for  unaccompanied 
foreigners. 

The  floods  which  had  set  all  the  rice -fields 
afloat  around  Nara  and  Osaka  were  widely  extend- 
ing, and  I  had  finally  to  abandon  my  pleasant 
scheme  of  following  exactly  the  route  of  the  expe- 
dition, passing  through  the  familiar  city  of  Shira- 
kawa,  whose  old  castle  was  our  happy  seven 
weeks'  abiding  place  many  years  before.  The  fine 
mountain  scenery  farther  north  must  also  be  un- 
visited,  for  the  railroad  was  impassable  at  certain 
points,  and  might  require  several  days  for  entire 
repair. 

So  another  Yusen  Kaisha  steamer,  Tairen-maru, 
was  taken  for  Hakodate,  and  possibly  Otaru. 
How  Esashi  could  be  reached  from  there  was 
misty  but  enticing,  as  I  rather  hoped  it  might  be 
necessary  to  travel  a  few  days  by  packhorse  over 


244  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

hitherto  untrodden  wilds,  a  few  Yezo  bears  in 
the  background  and  the  "  hairy  Ainu  "  as  hosts. 
However  that  might  be,  the  next  immediate  stage 
of  the  journey  was  clearly  denned. 

All  along  the  eastern  coast  of  the  main  island, 
as  the  Tairen-maru  kept  her  steady  way  north- 
ward, were  sad  reminders  of  the  tidal  wave,  now 
more  than  a  month  in  the  past.  Supplies  and 
money  still  being  sent  to  the  survivors,  we  stopped 
for  two  or  three  hours  at  Oginohama,  near  the 
southern  end  of  the  afflicted  region,  to  leave  a 
variety  of  necessities  for  the  suffering  people. 

The  town  was  dirty  and  sordid,  but  blossoming 
white  lilies  and  purple  hydrangea  brightened  it, 
and  our  own  familiar  clematis  climbed  all  over 
shrubs  and  even  trees  on  the  mountain  path  lead- 
ing past  a  pathetic  little  burial  place.  Just  be- 
yond was  a  Shinto  shrine,  full  of  gohei  (sticks  with 
fluttering  paper  prayers),  a  good  many  spirited 
drawings  of  a  cock  and  hens,  and  a  spherical  bell 
with  a  thick  red  cord  attached  by  which  to  ring 
attention  from  the  presiding,  but  perhaps  other- 
wise occupied,  deity.  A  steep  climb,  accompanied 
by  numerous  little  girls  with  babies  on  their 
backs,  brought  me  to  a  larger  Shinto  temple  with 
a  mirror  and  rough  drawings  of  horses.  Over- 
head, tall  cryptomerias  shaded  a  spot  doubtless 
charming  in  a  sunny  day,  but  rather  too  moist  for 
comfort  under  gently  falling  summer  rain. 


THE    TIDAL    WAVE  245 

Oginohama  received  no  damage  from  the  great 
deluge,  its  harbor  being  on  the  inner  side  of  a 
long  promontory.  The  havoc  was  greatest  in 
small  but  open  bays  near  by,  where  the  water 
heaped  itself  to  appalling  heights. 

Japanese  papers  and  magazines  were  still  full 
of  pathetic  details  of  the  great  catastrophe,  theo- 
ries for  its  cause  and  reports  of  assistance  to  the 
survivors.  Inability  to  read  the  complicated  char- 
acters describing  all  these  interesting  matters  as 
we  passed  along  the  afflicted  shore  was  an  exas- 
perating drawback,  for  an  extensive  current  litera- 
ture pertaining  to  this  subject  covered  the  table 
in  the  Tairen-maru  cabin.  Murakami  kindly  read 
the  articles  to  me,  which  probably  lost  much  of 
their  graphic  character  in  verbal  translation.  But 
the  harrowing  and  realistic  illustrations  by  native 
artists  needed  no  interpreter. 

The  day  of  the  tragedy,  I5th  June,  —  according 
to  the  Old  Calendar  fifth  day  of  fifth  month  - 
was  an  annual  festival ;  and  in  many  villages  the 
primitive  seaside  folk  had  been  hilariously  cele- 
brating when  singular  noises  were  heard,  pre- 
ceding the  melancholy  interruption.  Curiously 
enough,  barometers  gave  no  advance  indication  of 
impending  disaster ;  but  on  the  morning  of  the 
fifteenth,  an  old  woman  noticed  that  the  water  in 
her  well  had  almost  disappeared.  She  is  said  to 
have  told  her  neighbors  that  a  great  tidal  wave 


246  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

was  coming,  though  no  one  paid  serious  attention 
to  her  prediction. 

When  the  wave  was  actually  advancing,  three 
of  them,  in  fact,  running  shoreward  from  south- 
east to  northwest,  the  receding  water  is  reported 
to  have  laid  the  sands  bare  for  a  distance  of 
eighteen  hundred  feet,  white  and  glistening  grue- 
somely  in  the  murky  night.  Wave  length  from 
the  first  monster  to  the  crest  of  the  following  one 
was  not  less  than  from  twelve  to  sixteen  hundred 
feet.  Ten  minutes  completed  the  entire  devasta- 
tion. 

In  Kamaishi  the  director  of  the  telegraph  office 
saw  his  entire  family  washed  away  before  his  eyes ; 
nevertheless,  safe  himself,  he  at  once  proceeded 
to  hunt  for  his  broken  and  scattered  instruments 
among  the  debris.  Owing  to  his  faithful  bravery 
and  presence  of  mind,  communication  with  the 
outside  world  was  soon  opened. 

The  avalanche  of  waters  swept  three  times  into 
the  town,  the  first  most  terrible.  In  less  than 
two  minutes  all  houses  standing  in  the  lower  part 
of  the  town  were  quite  swept  away,  and  thousands 
of  persons  suffocated  or  battered  to  death.  But 
three  storehouses  ("go-downs")  were  left  stand- 
ing. Had  the  approach  of  this  fatal  watery  moun- 
tain been  anticipated  for  even  a  few  minutes, 
many  who  perished  might  easily  have  saved  them- 
selves. 


THE    TIDAL    WAVE  247 

The  "chief  officer"  or  head  man  of  the  town 
was  conversing  with  three  callers  when  they  heard 
the  roar  of  unfamiliar  waters.  Jumping  directly 
out  from  the  upper  story  he  and  one  of  his  friends 
took  flight  for  high  ground  and  escaped,  while  the 
other  two,  waiting  to  go  down  by  the  stairs,  were 
caught  by  the  flood.  Four  steamers  anchored 
near  the  shore  were  carried  inland  and  stranded 
in  fields,  almost  without  injury.  Schooners  and 
junks  in  rice  fields  were  a  common  sight  all 
along  the  coast.  One  small  boat  was  caught  in 
the  forked  limb  of  a  tree.  The  water  was  re- 
ported in  many  places  as  eighty  feet  higher  than 
the  highest  tide  ever  known,  while  one  village 
remained  in  complete  and  apparently  permanent 
oblivion  beneath  the  sea.  A  few  persons  saved 
themselves  by  breaking  through  the  roofs  of  their 
houses  and  there  clinging  until  washed  ashore, 
hours  or  even  days  afterward.  While  those  over- 
whelmed were  chiefly  poor  fishermen  who  lost  not 
only  houses  and  household  goods,  but  their  small 
gardens  and  crops  and  all  their  nets  and  boats, 
many  farmers  also  were  ruined,  and  cultivators  of 
silkworms;  the  food  supplies  of  whole  provinces 
disappeared.  Papers  were  full  of  incidents,  hor- 
ribly tragic,  and  details  of  saddest  meaning.  One 
young  girl  in  trying  to  save  both  her  grandmo- 
ther and  a  little  child  lost  her  own  life  and  prob- 
ably theirs  as  well;  when  her  body  was  found 


248  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

one  hand  was  grasping  remnants  of  her  grand- 
mother's dress,  while  the  other  still  held  tightly 
fragments  of  the  baby's  little  kimono.  The  pre- 
vailing and  unalterable  love  and  respect  in  which 
older  persons  are  held  in  Japan  is  never  more 
tenderly  illustrated  than  in  scenes  like  these.  A 
native  picture  represents  a  man  for  an  instant 
undecided  whether  he  shall  save  parents,  or  wife 
and  children.  Characteristically  seizing  his  aged 
mother,  he  is  shown  rushing  with  her  in  his  arms 
to  a  place  of  safety,  while  wife  and  child,  trying 
vainly  to  follow,  are  clutching  at  his  dress  in  de- 
spair. 

In  one  village  the  force  of  the  wave  was  so 
great  that  one  hundred  pine-trees  over  ten  feet 
in  circumference  were  entirely  torn  away,  leaving 
only  their  broken  roots.  But  in  other  places  men 
and  women  washed  into  the  tops  of  trees  were 
safely  stranded  —  climbing  down  to  the  ground 
when  danger  was  past. 

More  than  one  hundred  and  fifty  victims  were 
cast  ashore  upon  Sankwan  Island,  and  subse- 
quently rescued.  About  the  same  number  of  con- 
victs, released  from  jail  at  Okachi  when  the  wave 
broke  over  the  town,  returned  a  few  days  after  to 
the  Miyagi  jail  of  their  own  accord. 

Work  among  the  dead  and  dying  was  heroically 
carried  on,  despite  conditions  of  great  discomfort 
and  even  danger  to  the  rescuers.  The  victims 


THE    TIDAL    WAVE  249 

under  rains  and  hot  June  sun  became  almost  at 
once  unrecognizable,  and  owing  to  the  prevalence 
of  Shinto  faith  among  the  relatives  of  the  dead, 
cremation  could  not  be  resorted  to  without  doing 
violence  to  their  feelings  and  principles. 

Among  so  many  tragedies  the  finding  of  a  fish, 
a  gold  ring  in  its  mouth  still  encircling  a  human 
ringer,  was  mentioned  simply  —  without  comment. 
As  a  relief  to  the  prevailing  gloom,  an  account 
was  given  of  a  young  woman  in  a  hot  bath  when 
the  wave  reached  her,  being  lifted  bodily,  tub  and 
all,  and  floated  to  a  place  of  safety. 

Without  rice,  sent  by  the  government  at  once 
and  in  large  quantities,  the  survivors  must  have 
starved.  Terrible  bodily  injuries,  too,  resulted  in 
loss  of  life,  through  lack  of  physicians  and  nurses 
with  medicines  and  instruments. 

A  small  fleet  of  a  hundred  and  sixty  fishermen 
were  at  sea,  off  a  village,  the  great  waves  passing 
harmlessly  beneath ;  and  they  had  no  knowledge 
of  the  horrors  overtaking  friends  at  home  until 
their  return  late  at  night  to  the  awful  scene  of 
death.  Another  party  of  fishermen,  equally  un- 
conscious, picked  up,  with  much  surprise,  a  float- 
ing child  —  then  to  their  amazement  another  — 
and  two  or  three  more ;  at  length  one  of  the  men 
rescued  his  own  little  son;  tragedy  hovered  in 
the  air. 

Through    hundreds   of    miles  of    devastation, 


250  CORONA  AND  CORONET 

corpses  covered  the  beaches,  and  others  were 
continually  washed  ashore. 

In  Hongo  the  entire  hamlet  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  houses  was  obliterated,  the  sole  survivors  a 
party  of  men  playing  go  in  a  temple  on  a  hill, 
and  eight  children,  carried  by  the  waters  to  an 
elevated  spot  and  deposited.  Later,  others  were 
found,  thrown  upon  the  opposite  coast. 

A  passing  traveler,  putting  up  at  an  inn,  was 
seized  by  four  women  in  the  watery  rush,  who 
clung  to  him  so  desperately  that  he  was  powerless 
to  move.  Oddly  enough,  this  proved  the  salva- 
tion of  them  all,  —  the  combined  mass  defied  the 
power  of  water,  and  ultimately  found  itself  on  dry 
land.  The  survivors,  hurt,  dazed,  half-wild,  wan- 
dered up  and  down  for  days  in  tattered  garments, 
like  demented  ghosts. 

Professor  Kochibe's  theory  of  the  cause  of  the 
calamity  is  probably  the  most  scholarly  of  all. 
For  some  distance  out  from  the  coast  the  water  is 
shallow,  but  it  suddenly  drops  to  a  great  depth. 
The  cavity  is  called  Tuscarora  Hollow,  and  is  no 
less  than  four  thousand  fathoms  deep.  The  prob- 
ability is  that  a  large  piece  of  this  wall,  or  great 
cliff,  fell  off,  detached  by  a  submarine  earth- 
quake, thus  causing  the  huge  rollers.  Two  deep- 
sea  cowries  found  ordinarily  at  depths  of  several 
hundred  fathoms  were  discovered  after  the  catas- 
trophe far  up  on  the  shore,  at  the  edge  of  the 
wave-line,  one  of  them  but  just  dead. 


THE    TIDAL    WAVE  251 

The  first  recorded  damage  by  an  earthquake 
wave  is  that  of  May,  A.  D.  869.  On  the  title- 
page  of  a  Japanese  almanac  in  the  Qth  year 
Kenkin  (1168  A.  D.)  is  a  representation  of  an 
earthquake  insect,  on  its  back  a  map  of  Japan, 
an  oblong  body  covered  with  scales,  ten  feet  like 
a  spider,  and  a  dragon's  head. 

After  leaving  Oginohama  the  Tairen  -  maru 
passed  a  gruesome  relic,  —  a  corpse  floating  by, 
bleached  beyond  possible  recognition,  but  unmis- 
takably once  a  living  person.  Later  in  the  day 
two  or  three  others  floated  by. 

As  we  passed  the  lovely  coast  scenery,  finally 
reaching  Shiriya  Light,  and  Tsugaru  Strait,  sepa- 
rating the  main  island  from  Yezo,  it  was  unspeak- 
able relief  to  depart  from  a  region  so  haunting  in 
its  calamity. 

The  steamer  carried  many  Japanese  passengers, 
one  of  them  an  officer  high  in  the  Imperial  Navy, 
members  of  the  Board  of  Education,  the  editor  of 
a  popular  magazine,  and  several  dainty  little  ladies 
who  kept  mostly  to  their  staterooms.  The  naval 
officer,  especially  interested  in  oceanic  meteorol- 
ogy, was  the  only  Japanese  who  cared  to  come  to 
the  European  table.  He  and  I  with  the  genial 
Scotch  captain  of  the  steamer  were  often  the  sole 
diners,  —  a  slight  roughness  reducing  the  number 
at  once  to  these  three.  Captain  Kimotsuki  spoke 
little  English,  but  seemed  much  impressed  that  a 


252  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

lady  could  be  a  good  sailor,  even  that  she  could 
think  of  traveling  to  Esashi  at  all.  He  was  him- 
self bound  thither  to  witness  the  eclipse ;  but 
most  of  the  other  passengers  would  stop  at  Hako- 
date or  Otaru. 

Much  interesting  talk  —  and  the  Japanese  are 
often  great  talkers  —  went  on  in  the  cabin  be- 
tween the  various  scientific  and  literary  gentle- 
men, upon  matters  of  current  importance,  and  it 
was  most  trying  to  get  only  now  and  then  a  sug- 
gestion of  its  drift  from  an  occasional  familiar 
word. 

I  asked  Murakami  to  give  me  a  few  lessons  in 
reading  printed  characters.  In  a  day  or  two,  dates 
on  Japanese  newspapers  became  intelligible ;  but 
while  philosophical  and  intensely  absorbing,  it  is  a 
discouraging  accomplishment.  A  lifetime  might 
be  spent  in  its  acquirement. 

Read  from  right  to  left,  the  first  two  characters 
stand  for  Mei-ji,  the  present  era  of  Japan,  which 
began  with  the  Revolution  of  1868. 

B  A  +  n  A  *  %  +  -  »  ft 

(AUGUST  1 8,  1896) 

Tsugaru  Strait  was  passed,  the  Yezo  shores 
loomed  in  sight ;  Hakodate  Head  rose  majesti- 
cally above  the  sea,  its  base  washed  by  a  snow- 
white  fringe  of  surf,  its  mighty  cliffs  green  from 
sea  to  sky,  plunging  their  heads  into  the  softly 


THE    TIDAL    WAVE  253 

drifting  clouds  over  twelve  hundred  feet  above. 
Hakodate  seemed  to  have  wide  and  fairly  clean 
streets,  the  houses  built  evidently  with  reference 
to  more  severe  winters  than  prevail  in  the  main 
island.  Stones,  nowhere  used  for  paving,  were 
chiefly  lying  on  the  roofs.  A  pagoda,  a  few  bar- 
ren foreign  buildings,  and  the  graceful  lines  of  a 
temple  roof  broke  the  general  monotony. 

In  the  light  of  a  fair  northern  sunset  the  Tairen- 
maru  cast  anchor,  and  was  surrounded  at  once  by 
the  usual  fleet  of  sampans  ;  and  with  colors  dip- 
ping to  her  from  numerous  Japanese  steamers 
lying  near,  she  proceeded  to  settle  herself  for  a 
twenty-four  hours'  stay  in  the  beautiful  harbor. 


CHAPTER   XXV 

IN    PURSUIT    OF    A    SHADOW 

What  shadows  we  are  and  what  shadows  we  pursue. 

BURKE. 

WHO  could  watch  that  superb  Hakodate  Head 
lying  close  by  and  not  desire  to  see  the  wide- 
spread view  from  its  summit !  Early  dawn  found 
me  well  up  its  side. 

The  path  might  have  been  along  some  New 
England  hillside.  Red  and  white  clover  grew 
luxuriantly,  humble  heal-all  and  wild  geraniums, 
spiraea  and  serpentaria,  and  hydrangeas,  blue 
and  white.  Maidenhair  ferns  and  royal  osmunda 
flourished  side  by  side  with  yellow  lilies,  dear 
old  cinnamon  pinks  of  traditional  grandmothers' 
gardens,  and  fair  purple  iris.  Young  oaks  shaded 
bluebells,  homely  yarrow  sent  forth  its  pungent 
odor,  and  wild  sunflowers  gleamed  at  every  turn 
in  the  path.  A  large  bush,  full  of  splendid  scar- 
let berries,  was  an  unfamiliar  member  of  the 
elder  family. 

On  a  mountain  spur  the  view  emerged  from 
shifting  fog  in  sunny,  brightness ;  just  below  us 
two  reservoirs,  farther  away  the  bay,  with  a  long, 
narrow  beach  separating  it  from  the  ocean,  scores 


IN  PURSUIT  OF  A   SHADOW  255 

of  vessels  at  anchor,  and  the  gray  town  climbing 
a  short  distance  up  the  hillside.  Surf  was  beat- 
ing high  on  the  sea  side,  fog  drifting  off  to  south 
and  east,  glints  of  sunlight  turning  the  water 
here  and  there  to  silver.  Tall  cryptomerias, 
huge  ledges,  a  fine  park  and  museum,  a  farm- 
house where  a  pretty  Japanese  girl  dispensed 
that  rare  luxury,  rich  milk  —  are  all  blended  in 
one  memory  of  Hakodate. 

But  not  an  Ainu  had  appeared. 

The  Tairen-maru,  bound  for  Otaru  on  the  west 
coast  of  Yezo,  finally  steamed  off,  past  Shira- 
kamisaki  Point,  and  another  stage  of  the  journey 
was  begun. 

At  Otaru  (sandy  road)  women  carry  the  bur- 
dens, and  mushroom  hats  prevail.  It  is  the  port 
of  Sapporo,  whence  a  short  line  of  railroad  leads  to 
the  site  of  the  Imperial  Agricultural  College.  An 
attempt  to  reach  the  province  of  Kitami  over- 
land from  here  would  have  been  seriously  diffi- 
cult if  not  practically  impossible,  the  island  con- 
sisting of  roadless  mountains,  unexplored  forests, 
and  bridgeless  rivers.  Interesting  as  such  an 
unusual  trip  might  have  proved,  the  time  would 
hardly  admit  dallying  with  the  unknown  after 
such  a  fashion,  and  my  first  anxiety  in  Otaru 
was  to  inquire  whether  a  Yusen  Kaisha  steamer 
might  not  be  ready  to  make  the  infrequent  trip 
along  the  northwest  coast,  around  Cape  Soya, 


256  CORONA  AND  CORONET 

and  to  villages  along  the  northeast  shore  of 
Yezo.  First  information  was  disheartening  —  a 
steamer  had  some  time  before  started  for  this 
remote  region  and  the  one  now  in  port  was  in- 
tended for  another  direction.  But  it  was  found 
that  a  little  steamer  belonging  to  a  local  native 
line  was  liable  to  start  for  the  north  in  a  few 
days,  if  storm  or  rain  or  fog  or  high  seas  did  not 
prevent. 

And  this  seemed  the  only  practical  way  to 
reach  Esashi  in  season. 

While  this  somewhat  uncertain  prospect  was 
probably  producing  a  thoughtful  cast  of  counte- 
nance, as  I  revolved  the  possibilities  of  being 
late  for  the  eclipse,  a  swift  messenger  arrived 
from  the  Yusen  Kaisha  office,  —  bringing  the 
compliments  of  the  manager,  and  the  intelli- 
gence that  he  had  received  word  from  the  head 
office  in  Yokohama  to  detail  for  me  a  special 
steamer  for  that  far  northern  voyage.  It  would 
sail  within  two  days,  passes  would  be  sent,  and 
European  food  provided  on  board.  Meantime 
Sapporo  could  be  visited,  and  perhaps  some  Ainu 
seen ;  so  my  prospect  immediately  began  to 
lighten. 

Can  it  really  be  that  Japan  is  seen  from  the 
windows  of  the  train  bound  for  Sapporo  ?  To  be 
sure  the  cliffs  and  hills  on  one  side  and  the  sea 
on  the  other  were  beautiful,  fishermen's  gardens 


IN  PURSUIT  OF  A   SHADOW  257 

held  brilliant  hollyhocks,  and  portulaca  carpeted 
the  ground.  Marshes  had  cat -tails,  and  the 
green  hills  trailing  mist  over  them.  A  rice- 
field  or  two  disputed  the  landscape  with  Ameri- 
canized fields  where  haying  was  in  progress. 
Solemn  crows  perched  upon  gables ;  flagpoles 
and  dead  trees  all  had  their  brooding  black  oc- 
cupants. Yellow  toadflax  lined  the  track,  and 
evening  primroses,  large  and  golden,  droopingly 
awaited  sunset. 

But  Japan  —  where  had  that  poetic  country 
gone  ?  Perhaps  only  itself  under  warmer  skies, 
brisk  northern  breezes  may  blow  away  its  most 
elusive  charm.  At  all  events,  Sapporo  seemed 
the  most  American  city  of  the  Empire  —  as  in- 
deed it  well  might,  since  the  Imperial  Agricultu- 
ral College  was  established  in  1876,  under  the 
direction,  as  organizer  and  president,  of  the  late 
Colonel  Clark  of  the  Massachusetts  Agricultural 
College.  The  model  farm  with  its  buildings,  and 
the  whole  atmosphere  of  the  place  are  American, 
not  Japanese,  with  an  effect  practical  rather  than 
picturesque. 

Buildings  erected  in  Japan  under  the  title 
"foreign"  are  apt  to  be  bare  and  barrack-like 
structures,  quite  lacking  the  architectural  grace 
which  our  older  towns  show,  yet  having  lost  the 
attractiveness  of  Japanese  houses.  Many  such 
are  in  Sapporo. 


258  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Jinrikisha  are  few,  and  horses  prevail  on  the 
wide  unpaved  streets,  bordered  by  low  buildings 
and  small  streams  of  running  water. 

Built  for  the  Imperial  Household  in  foreign 
style,  but  under  Japanese  management,  the  Ho- 
hei-kwan  is  a  large  hotel  facing  a  typical  garden 
most  "restful"  to  the  eyes.  The  cook  is  an 
artist,  the  attendants  delightful.  Here  I  found 
myself  already  famous  from  connection  with  the 
expedition. 

In  the  usual  native  inns  pretty  maids  conduct 
male  guests  to  the  bath,  a  custom  as  old  as  the 
Odyssey;  male  servants  taking  charge  of  the 
ablutions  of  ladies.  The  same  custom  prevailed 
at  the  Hohei-kwan,  an  amiable  old  man  escort- 
ing me  to  the  bathing  apartment  with  much 
simplicity ;  he  saw  that  the  tub  or  tank  was  filled 
with  actually  boiling  water,  showed  all  the  ar- 
rangements for  comfort  and  convenience,  and 
only  stopped  short  of  offering  to  take  my  kimono 
while  I  stepped  in.  That  experience  was  re- 
served for  the  Etchuya  Inn  at  Otaru. 

Professor  Nitobe  and  Professor  Miyabe  of  the 
College,  both  of  whom  were  educated  in  Amer- 
ica, called  at  once,  and  through  their  kindness 
many  interesting  places  were  intelligently  seen, 
among  them  the  Museum,  full  of  Yezo  material, 
and  —  as  everywhere  throughout  the  Empire — • 
triumphant  mementos  of  the  Chinese  war. 


IN  PURSUIT  OF  A   SHADOW  259 

The  mysterious  Ainu  nation  is  exciting  much 
attention  in  Japanese  ethnological  circles,  and 
utensils,  ornaments,  and  clothing  are  now  being 
properly  collected,  preserved,  and  classified. 

I,  too,  began  to  gather  similar  articles  for 
Professor  Morse  of  Salem,  who  had  asked  me  to 
collect  them  for  the  Peabody  Museum.  He  had 
hoped  that  I  might  obtain  a  primitive  loom,  bows 
and  arrows,  elm-fibre  garments,  musical  instru- 
ments, and  other  Ainu  articles. 

Through  Professor  Nitobe's  skill  and  courtesy 
I  was  enabled  to  purchase  a  number  of  rare 
relics,  which  induced  great  elevation  of  spirits, 
since  Professor  Morse  had  mentioned  casually 
when  asking  me  to  collect  Ainu  material,  that 
they  especially  dislike  parting  with  their  posses- 
sions, and  some  articles  would  be  almost  impos- 
sible to  obtain.  Here,  however,  I  already  had 
the  nucleus  of  a  fair  collection,  although  I  relied 
chiefly  for  the  best  additions  upon  the  Kitami 
Ainu,  where  a  foreigner  would  be  a  novelty. 

Professor  Miyabe,  one  of  Japan's  finest  bota- 
nists, cleared  up  my  doubts  upon  various  shrubs 
and  flowers,  puzzling  in  their  differences  from 
and  resemblances  to  American  species  ;  and  al- 
together the  time  in  Sapporo  was  far  too  short. 

An  event  in  one's  lifetime  is  the  first  sight  of 
an  Ainu.  A  "  civilized  "  specimen  soon  crossed 
my  path,  the  most  extraordinary  figure  in  my  ex- 


260  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

perience.  With  his  wild  head  of  electrified  black 
hair  parted  in  the  middle  and  standing  out  under 
a  round-crowned  and  very  dingy  Derby,  huge 
hoops  of  brass  or  German  silver  in  his  ears,  his 
face  largely  hidden  by  an  enormous  beard  and 
mustache,  a  white  cotton  kimono  and  cowhide 
boots,  this  anomalous  relic  of  a  vanishing  nation 
was  infinitely  more  pathetic  than  his  veriest  sav- 
age kinsman.  His  son,  evidently  a  cross  between 
Ainu  and  Japanese,  —  a  peculiarly  barbarous 
combination,  —  wore  regular  schoolboy  "gear." 
Speaking  in  pure  Ainu  to  his  son,  who  answered 
in  a  sort  of  mixed  dialect,  the  father  was  a  mel- 
ancholy and  out-of-place  specimen. 

Sad  it  is  to  see  a  whole  race  disappear,  —  over- 
powered peacefully  and  half-unconsciously  by  a 
stronger  nation  of  brighter  intellect ;  but  this  is 
inevitable  in  the  world's  progress. 

Bearskins  in  Sapporo  were  tempting,  thick 
brown  and  golden  yellow ;  but  the  hunters  have 
to  go  farther  for  them  now  than  a  few  years  ago 
—  more  deeply  into  the  northern  forest. 

In  Sapporo,  too,  it  was  that  I  had  a  sudden 
awakening  as  to  using  my  native  tongue.  As 
a  little  shop  was  passed,  at  whose  open  sides 
hung  pretty  Japanese  brushes  of  many  dainty 
kinds,  I  remembered  my  hearths  and  open  fire- 
places in  remote  Massachusetts,  and  exclaiming : 
"  Oh,  those  brushes  are  dear !  I  must  have 


IN  PURSUIT  OF  A  SHADOW  261 

one  or  two,"  approached  the  smiling  and  bowing 
shopman. 

"  Oh,  no,"  said  Murakami,  gravely  following, 
"  You  will  not  find  them  dear.  They  are  very 
inexpensive  ! "  —  which  was  indeed  the  case. 
But  the  unintentional  lesson  was  no  less  pun- 
gent. 

A  delightful  Philadelphia  gentleman  of  the  old 
school,  and  his  daughter,  were  at  the  Ho-hei- 
kwan  for  the  summer,  having  lived  for  several 
winters  in  Tokyo.  An  invitation  to  their  table, 
with  many  other  kindnesses,  made  the  hours 
homelike  and  gracious. 

On  the  train  returning  to  Otaru,  Murakami- 
san  gave  another  mild  shock  to  his  CQmpanion, 
with  his  superior  use  of  English,  at  all  times  a 
model.  Wishing  to  test  my  own  impressions  of 
the  reason,  I  asked  him  why  all  the  carefully 
built  fences  at  the  stations  were  invariably 
burned — pickets,  posts,  all  charred  some  dis- 
tance up  from  the  ground.  His  reply  was  char- 
acteristic :  — 

"Carbon  is  not  soluble  in  water,"  he  said 
quietly,  without  farther  explanation.  But  it  was 
sufficient. 

The  Etchuya  Inn  is  a  fascinating  little  hostelry, 
its  maids  dainty,  its  native  food  of  the  best,  its 
attendants  more  than  attentive,  its  "  head  stew- 
ard" unremitting  in  politeness.  To  be  sure  its 


262  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

bath-water  was  red-hot,  —  actually  bubbling ;  the 
screens  surrounding  the  tank  had  a  row  of  glass 
panes  in  the  middle,  and  screens  have  no  locks. 
But  its  hand  basins  were  of  artistic,  shining 
brass  with  decorative  characters  in  the  bottom, 
its  tiny  brass  mouth  bowls  unique  ;  and  a  long, 
polished  corridor  where  water  was  superficially 
used  by  all  the  guests  in  common,  opened  to  a 
green  and  blossoming  garden  court. 

Chasing  an  eclipse,  and  then  chasing  an  eclipse 
expedition,  I  deemed  it  appropriate  to  travel  in 
a  distinctly  native  way ;  so  everything  not  abso- 
lutely necessary  had  been  left  on  the  Coronet, 
and  my  few  belongings  were  packed  in  the  pretty 
baskets,  pr  kori.  I  had  added,  also,  on  the  way, 
one  or  two  white  trunks  of  native  manufacture  ; 
and  from  the  Etchuya  Inn,  while  seated  of 
course  on  the  floor,  my  letters  were  written  upon 
long  strips  of  Japanese  paper  with  a  camel's-hair 
brush  and  native  ink.  One  epistle  to  America 
measured  two  yards  and  a  half. 

Meals,  too,  were  served  by  smiling  maids 
upon  their  knees,  the  fire-pot  constantly  replen- 
ished with  glowing  coals  of  charcoal,  o  cha  (hot 
tea)  always  ready,  and  at  night  with  the  floor  for 
bed,  beneath  Japanese  green  mosquito  netting, 
I  slept  the  sleep  of  Nippon,  occasionally  partly 
aroused  by  the  pattering  feet  of  mice  or  "  twenty 
days'  rats,"  as  the  Japanese  call  them.  Lessons, 


IN  PURSUIT  OF  A  SHADOW  263 

too,  were  given  me  in  correct  trying  of  the  obi, 
and  old  treasures  of  lacquer  shown,  among  them 
the  toilet  set  of  a  court  lady  of  generations  ago. 
All  the  men  and  maids  gathered  with  the 
chief  steward  at  the  entrance,  giving  farewell 
bows  and  fans,  as  we  departed  for  the  Kwanko- 
maru.  Murakami  was  silent,  but  apparently 
happy. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

STILL    PURSUING 

Shadow  owes  its  birth  to  light. 

GAY. 

WHEN  at  creation  a  certain  god  and  goddess 
were  selected  to  evolve  the  island  of  Yezo  from 
chaos,  they  were  endowed  equally  with  materials 
and  ability  to  complete  the  task. 

To  the  god  were  allotted  the  eastern  and  south- 
ern parts  of  the  island,  while  the  goddess  was 
to  attend  to  the  western  portion.  They  began 
together,  vying  amiably  during  the  progress  of 
their  work.  But  alas,  after  the  manner  of  women, 
the  goddess  one  day  met  a  female  friend  and 
stopped  to  chat  with  her.  This  friend,  sister  of 
Aioina  Kamui  (one  of  the  most  ancient  forefa- 
thers, indeed  the  Adam  of  the  Ainu  race),  must 
have  been  a  seductive  conversationist,  for  the  two 
talked  long  and  idly  about  acquaintances  and 
neighbors,  while  the  god  at  the  east  kept  steadily 
at  work,  ever  the  custom  of  men.  Looking  up 
suddenly  and  seeing  how  nearly  completed  his 
portion  was,  and  frightened  at  the  state  of  her 
own  unfinished  regions,  the  goddess  hastily  threw 


STILL  PURSUING  265 

together  her  remaining  materials  in  a  careless  and 
slovenly  manner,  leaving  this  western  coast  in  its 
present  rugged  and  dangerous  condition.  But, 
add  the  Ainu  in  telling  this  legend,  no  one,  even 
if  disposed  to  grumble  at  the  dangers  of  these 
shores,  should  presume  to  blame  the  Creator  for 
such  a  state  of  things,  as  it  is  wholly  the  fault  of 
his  deputy  and  her  tendency  to  gossip ;  and  their 
lords  often  point  the  moral  at  women  who  talk 
too  much,  —  "  Set  a  watch  over  your  lips  and 
attend  to  your  duties,  for  see  how  rough  the  west 
coast  of  Yezo  is,  and  that  all  because  of  a  chat- 
tering goddess." 

The  chattering,  nevertheless,  may  be  held  re- 
sponsible for  a  picturesque  bit  of  work.  Steep 
cliffs,  often  richly  wooded  with  ancient  trees, 
sometimes  rise  in  bare  and  rocky  impressiveness 
many  hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Innumerable 
streams  rush  in  white  torrents  down  these  ma- 
jestic heights,  using  every  ravine  for  their  swift 
descent  until  the  whole  face  of  the  coast  appears 
laced  with  flying  spray  of  continual  cascades. 
Tiny  fishing  villages  find  precarious  foothold  at 
the  base  of  cliffs  entirely  inaccessible,  on  beaches 
almost  too  narrow  for  the  single  row  of  thatched 
dwellings,  even  huddled  against  the  steep  rock 
behind  ;  while  constant  surf,  beating  white  and 
high  before  them,  seems  to  make  a  village  high- 
way by  the  sea  equally  improbable. 


266  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

Leaving  Otaru  seemed  also  leaving  all  fog  and 
cloud.  The  Sea  of  Japan  stretched  clear  and  gray 
to  the  horizon,  where  a  narrow  strip  of  greenish- 
blue  sky  showed  beneath  horizontal  lines  of  cloud. 
Fleets  of  fishing-boats  lay  in  the  offing,  and  to- 
ward the  north  hopeful  sunshine,  with  an  autum- 
nal suggestion  in  its  quiet  beauty. 

At  Mashika  a  landing  was  made  in  late  after- 
noon. Only  a  fishing  village,  it  had  lately  grown 
to  over  five  hundred  houses  and  nearly  three 
thousand  inhabitants,  such  promise  of  financial 
prosperity  follows  in  the  herring's  train.  Ma- 
shika's  "fire  tower"  was  quite  imposing,  —  a  tall 
ladder  rising  high  above  the  roofs,  with  a  bell  at 
the  top,  suggesting  observation  and  alarm. 

An  official  of  the  Yusen  Kaisha  came  on  board 
with  a  polite  invitation  to  visit  the  town ;  and 
after  a  call  at  his  house,  with  its  beautiful  in- 
closed garden  where  he  made  scientific  tea,  an 
opportunity  was  afforded  for  seeing  a  compara- 
tively new  Japanese  colony.  No  foreign  woman 
had  ever  been  in  the  town  before,  and  a  tour  of 
investigation  about  the  streets  and  to  the  tem- 
ple aroused  an  almost  startling  degree  of  interest 
in  the  younger  inhabitants.  The  procession  be- 
came more  imposing  in  numbers  at  every  corner. 
Hoping  to  escape  from  our  following,  we  decided 
to  visit  an  Ainu  house,  and,  turning  quietly  off 
the  main  thoroughfare,  as  twilight  was  coming 


STILL  PURSUING  267 

on,  passed  a  rushing  stream  and  took  a  footpath 
through  deep  bushes  to  the  dwelling.  But  not 
so  easily  were  the  young  people  deprived  of  their 
foreign  amusement,  and  every  individual  followed. 
Jumping  the  stream  with  alacrity,  chasing  single 
file  through  the  narrow  pathway,  and  actually 
arriving  before  us,  they  made  a  dense  circle 
around ;  while  the  old  Ainu,  gray-haired  and  ven- 
erable, came  out  politely  to  speak  to  his  singular 
guest.  I  counted  sixty  in  the  group,  not  includ- 
ing stragglers  on  the  outskirts.  An  old  woman 
was  washing  a  big  dish  in  the  stream,  —  a  piece 
of  cleanliness  learned  with  difficulty  from  the 
Japanese,  since  Ainu,  away  from  civilized  neigh- 
bors, wash  neither  themselves  nor  their  clothes, 
nor  utensils. 

The  old  man  spoke  fairly  good  Japanese,  and 
his  story  was  a  sad  one,  —  told  to  his  unusual  and 
unexpected  callers  with  a  modest  dignity.  His 
father,  so  the  tale  ran,  once  lived  in  a  very  fine 
house,  almost  a  palace  to  an  Ainu,  but  it  was 
burned,  and  his  own  as  well,  with  all  his  treasures, 
so  that  now  he  was  forced  to  live  in  the  poor  one 
where  we  found  him.  His  oldest  son  had  broken 
his  leg,  and  all  the  father's  money  went  to  the 
Japanese  hospital,  while  now  his  own  eyesight 
was  nearly  gone  —  truly  a  pitiable  plight  for  an 
old,  white-haired  Ainu. 

When  sunset  had  faded,  and  the  landing  or 


268  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

hatoba  was  reached,  —  so  near  nightfall  that  the 
body-guard  had  considerably  diminished,  —  this 
old  Ainu  was  found  waiting  by  the  boat.  Bowing 
low,  he  expressed  in  very  good  Japanese  his  sense 
of  the  honor  done  him  by  our  call,  and  his  grati- 
tude and  appreciation  that  so  much  trouble  should 
have  been  taken  by  one  coming  from  so  far. 

The  men  of  the  Ainu  race  are  much  better  in 
appearance  than  the  women,  immense  heads  of 
bushy  hair  parted  in  the  middle,  and  great  beards 
imparting  an  impressiveness  far  from  unpleasant. 
The  women  appear  stolid  and  indifferent. 

Our  sampan  lay  in  the  surf,  and  a  single  plank, 
dancing  up  and  down  on  the  waves,  connected 
it  with  the  shore.  A  few  lanterns  gleamed  here 
and  there  as  coolies  ran  about,  and  bidding  the 
old  Ainu  sayonara,  the  sampan  pushed  off  on 
the  dark  water  to  the  brightly  lighted  Kwanko- 
maru  lying  at  anchor  outside. 

A  most  beautiful  feature  of  the  voyage  to  Soya, 
northwestern  cape  of  the  island,  is  the  all-day 
view  of  Rishiri,  a  small  island  to  the  west,  con- 
sisting of  a  single  mountain.  Somewhat  over 
five  thousand  feet  in  height,  its  figure  resembles 
Fuji,  though  the  cone  is  not  quite  so  regular  nor 
the  summit  so  sharply  truncate.  Ravines  full  of 
snow  extended  downward  from  the  top,  across 
which  a  filmy  white  cloud  occasionally  trailed 
itself  slowly. 


A   TYPICAL    AINU 


STILL  PURSUING  269 

Primitive  fishing  villages  lay  along  the  shore, 
with  many  new  houses  of  wood  showing  as  yet  no 
weather  stain.  Only  lately  have  Japanese  begun 
to  colonize  these  far-away  possessions  of  the 
Emperor.  But  they  must  have  been  excellent 
housewives  at  Onivake,  for  on  numberless  roofs 
\a.y  ftiton  (Japanese  bedding)  exposed  to  the  fresh 
morning  sunlight.  An  occasional  temple  showed 
its  fine  roof  lines  ;  multitudes  of  bright  flags, 
each  announcing  the  name  or  occupation  of  the 
dweller  below,  lent  gayety  to  this  little  town,  lying 
against  a  dark  background  of  cedar  and  spruce 
forest.  The  industry,  other  than  omnipresent 
fishing,  is  collecting  edible  seaweed,  which  is 
dried  and  sent  all  over  Japan,  even  to  China. 

At  Oshidomari,  while  the  steamer  officials 
transacted  necessary  business  on  shore,  we  lay  at 
the  foot  of  a  high  green  cliff  crowned  by  a  white 
light-house. 

Nine  miles  north  of  Rishiri  is  a  still  smaller 
island,  Reibunshiri,  and  more  villages.  Washed 
by  three  remote  northern  waters,  —  the  Sea  of 
Japan,  the  Gulf  of  Tartary,  and  La  Perouse  Strait 
opening  into  the  sea  of  Okhotsk,  —  the  climate 
in  winter  is  intensely  cold,  and  the  sea  so  rough 
that  no  steamers  attempt  an  approach.  Even  in 
spring  landing  is  prevented  by  thickly-spread  fish- 
ing nets  all  over  the  bays,  often  far  into  the  road- 
stead. One  little  town,  Kabuka,  is  so  exposed 


270  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

that  even  on  the  quiet  day  when  the  Kwanko- 
maru  came  near,  so  tumultuous  was  the  surf  that 
a  large  sampan  heaped  high  with  shining  sea- 
weed, collected  for  hours  in  favorable  localities  and 
now  being  brought  to  land,  was  overturned  some 
distance  out  and  all  its  yards  of  kelp  treasures 
scattered  once  more  into  their  native  element. 
Instantly  a  dozen  men  leaped  into  the  surf  and 
rescued  most  of  it. 

A  big  boat  sent  out  to  us  from  the  steamer 
agency  was  propelled  by  eight  men  in  various 
stages  of  queer  clothes  and  mahogany  skin  ;  one 
man  elaborately  arrayed  in  three  separate  short 
kimono,  but  with  brown  extremities  exposed  to 
chill  wind  and  sea.  After  the  manner  of  coolies, 
they  sang  at  their  labor,  and  I  have  written  the 
notes  of  Kabuka's  refrain.  But  voices  are  sel- 
dom in  exact  unison,  and  an  untranscribable  vocal 
quality  makes  it  impossible  to  convey  a  real  idea 
of  these  constantly  reiterated  strains  :  — 


Moderate. 


Japanese  melodies  are  not  easily  reproduced 
with  European  instruments  or  voices  or  notation. 
While  these  are  generally  minor,  I  observed  that 
Ainu  at  their  work  sang  with  entirely  different 
musical  characteristics;  in  major  keys  and  with 


STILL  PURSUING  271 

excellent   rhythm,  their  airs  were   melodious  to 
foreign  ears. 

In  these  cold  regions  Japanese  seem  hardly 
like  themselves.  Palms  and  bamboo  belong  to 
the  national  expression.  But  a  scarlet  sun  was 
setting  in  a  gray  sea  as  we  entered  La  Perouse 
Strait ;  and  far  in  the  north  loomed  low  the 
shores  of  Saghalien,  now  a  Russian  penal  island 
settlement,  but  formerly  owned  by  Japan.  Wak- 
kanai,  just  below  Gape  Soya,  was  now  our  next 
anchorage,  and  by  sunrise  —  EsashL 


CHAPTER   XXVII 

ESASHI    IN    K1TAMI 

I  traveled  among  unknown  men 
In  lands  beyond  the  sea  — 

WORDSWORTH,  England. 

Child  of  the  Sun  !   to  thee  't  is  given 
To  guard  the  banner  of  the  free. 

DRAKE,  The  American  Flag. 

BEARS,  barbarous  Ainu,  the  Imperial  Agricul- 
tural College  at  Sapporo,  and  the  fine  harbor  of 
Hakodate,  where  men-of-war  of  various  national- 
ities are  apt  to  take  refuge  from  the  summer 
heats  of  Yokohama,  —  these  are  all  that  average 
travelers  in  the  Mikado's  Empire  connect  with 
the  great  northern  island,  Yezo. 

Containing  nearly  thirty-seven  thousand  square 
miles,  practically  all  forest,  the  number  of  its 
trees  is  estimated  at  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
nine  million,  —  evergreens  in  abundance,  and 
oaks,  elms,  walnuts,  birches,  maples,  and  other 
familiar  northern  species,  the  handsome  ash,  and 
a  tangle  of  interlacing  vines. 

In  1877,  Mr.  Benjamin  Smith  Lyman  made 
the  first  attempt  at  a  geological  survey  of  the 
island,  and  many  interesting  facts  were  brought 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI  273 

to  light.  There  are  several  volcanoes  and  sul- 
phur mines,  also  there  is  much  coal ;  but  speak- 
ing broadly,  the  Hokkaido  is  an  unknown  region, 
—  one  of  the  few  places  yet  remaining  where 
primitive  nature  and  human  nature  may  still  be 
found,  as  rude  aborigines  pursue  their  unmo- 
lested way,  and  where  many  hundred  miles  of 
trackless  forest  yet  await  the  first  step  of  outer 
civilization.  Nothing  less,  certainly,  than  an 
eclipse  could  have  attracted  to  its  remote  wilder- 
ness at  once  scientific  men  from  England  and 
France  and  America,  or  even  from  the  classic 
shades  of  the  Imperial  University  at  Tokyo. 

In  the  brilliant  morning  sunshine  the  Kwanko- 
maru  pursued  her  tour  of  investigation  along 
Yezo's  northern  coast  in  search  of  Esashi.  The 
handsome  young  Japanese  who  commanded  the 
steamer  had  never  been  there  before,  and  the 
sombre  evergreens,  silent  mountains,  and  gray- 
roofed  villages  on  the  shore  afforded  no  distinc- 
tive landmark. 

I  stood  on  deck  with  Captain  Kimotsuki  look- 
ing at  the  monotonous  stretch  of  country  through 
a  field  glass,  when  suddenly  my  heart  began  to 
beat  with  singular  rapidity,  quick  tears  sprang, 
while  for  a  moment  a  certain  huskiness  of  voice 
prevented  my  telling  him,  and  Murakami  -  san, 
calmly  gazing  shoreward,  that  I  had  just  made 
out  the  stars  and  stripes,  fluttering  for  the  first 


274  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

time  in  breezes  blowing  straight  across  to  Yezo 
from  Saghalien,  over  the  lashing  waves  of  the 
Sea  of  Okhotsk.  It  does  not  always  take  war 
for  patriotism  to  grow  with  great  and  unantici- 
pated strides. 

If  farther  confirmation  of  the  proximity  of 
Esashi  were  needed  there  it  was  off  the  port  bow, 
and  about  two  miles  away,  —  the  huge  black 
cruiser  L'Alger,  which  had  brought  Professor 
Deslandres  from  Yokohama,  now  awaiting  the 
completion  of  his  eclipse  observations  to  return 
him  in  safety  to  that  port. 

Hardly  less  homelike  than  the  American  sym- 
bol was  the  familiar  French  flag  with  its  three 
starless  stripes  ;  the  long  journey  from  Inland 
Sea  to  Okhotsk  Sea  was  happily  accomplished,  — 
the  welcome  might  fairly  be  described  as  enthu- 
siastic. 

Esashi  air,  evidently  out  of  the  region  of  heavy 
fog,  was  far  clearer  than  in  southern  Hokkaido, 
and  every  prospect  was  cheerful,  since  even  the 
prevailing  earthquakes  almost  omit  western  and 
northern  Yezo  in  their  constant  visits  to  the  Em- 
pire otherwhere. 

From  July  loth  until  August  5th  there  were  ten 
perfectly  clear  afternoons  and  four  only  partially 
shaded.  The  Hokkaido,  in  its  northern  por- 
tions, offers  a  better  chance  for  cloudless  skies 
than  the  main  island,  but  along  its  southern 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI  275 

coast  fogs  prevail  almost  constantly.  Reference 
has  been  made  before  to  the  excellent  pamphlet 
issued  by  the  Central  Meteorological  Observa- 
tory, giving  the  observations  at  this  season  for 
three  years  past  at  all  available  eclipse  locations. 
From  a  careful  summing  up  of  all  results,  Esa- 
shi  was  selected,  not  only  by  our  own  and  the 
French  mission,  but  by  that  sent  out  from  the 
University  at  Tokyo.  The  Lick  Observatory 
party  and  the  English  expedition  chose  Akke- 
shi,  on  the  southeastern  coast,  as  their  location. 
There  were  thus  five  fully  equipped  expeditions 
in  the  Hokkaido,  awaiting  the  moon's  shadow  to 
reveal  truths  and  glories  hitherto  unknown. 

Friendliness  at  headquarters  had  brought  tel- 
egrams from  the  Central  Government  to  the 
governor  of  Hokkaido,  and  from  him  to  the  local 
authorities,  placing  practically  the  entire  re- 
sources of  the  region  at  our  disposal,  —  guards 
and  interpreters,  a  telegraph  operator  who  under- 
stood English,  a  recently  vacated  schoolhouse  as 
headquarters,  a  tract  of  land  adjoining  for  our 
instruments  and  portable  house,  and  every  intel- 
ligent Japanese  resident  as  willing  assistant  so 
far  as  possible. 

The  mayor's  wife,  a  tiny  lady  with  blackened 
teeth,  sent  vases  and  flowers  to  decorate  the 
dining-room ;  the  editor  of  a  Sapporo  paper  (in 
Esashi  to  report  the  eclipse)  brought  gifts  of 


276  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

petrified  shells  and  geological  curiosities  —  all 
did  something.  Occasionally  there  was  a  me- 
chanical drawback  —  as  when  the  Astronomer 
negotiated  for  some  urgent  iron  work,  and  finally 
received  the  smith's  compliments,  with  further 
information  that  he  could  probably  complete  one 
hinge  and  a  half  each  day. 

Professor  Terao,  in  charge  of  the  Tokyo  mis- 
sion, the  official  party  of  the  Japanese  govern- 
ment, established  his  camp  about  half  a  mile  south 
of  the  little  town  and  back  a  short  distance  from 
the  beach.  He  was  well  prepared  to  accomplish 
excellent  photographic  work,  among  his  instru- 
ments being  an  especially  fine  photographic 
doublet  of  eight  inches  aperture,  by  the  well- 
known  optician  Brashear  of  Allegheny.  It  was 
constructed  for  this  eclipse,  and  arrived  only  a 
few  days  before,  having  been  delayed  by  diffi- 
culty in  obtaining  from  Germany  the  finest 
quality  of  new  glass  needed  for  the  lenses. 

The  French  party  was  established  near  the 
western  end  of  the  town,  in  a  large  open  square 
of  land,  where  various  tents  and  houses,  brick 
piers  and  large  instruments,  made  almost  a  little 
village  in  themselves.  The  outfit  was  very  elab- 
orate, and  was  intended  quite  exclusively  for 
work  in  spectroscopy,  the  specialty  of  this  cele- 
brated astronomical  physicist,  who  has  added  to 
the  fame  of  the  already  famous  Paris  Observa- 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI  277 

tory  by  his  successful  and  brilliant  work  in  phy- 
sical research  in  photographing  the  solar  promi- 
nences without  an  eclipse  and  by  his  discovery 
already  mentioned  of  the  rotation  of  the  corona 
with  the  sun  at  the  Senegal  eclipse  of  April  i6th, 
1893.  Assisting  Professor  Deslandres  were  not 
only  the  gentlemen  before  named  as  having 
come  with  him  from  Paris,  but  very  valuable 
cooperation  was  given  by  officers  of  L'Alger,  — 
Captain  Boutet,  commanding,  Captain  Le  Bouleur 
de  Courlon  (who  had  charge  of  the  six-inch  tele- 
scope, and  also  of  observing  the  four  contacts), 
Captain  Hurbin  and  Midshipman  Dumas,  in 
charge  of  the  photometers  and  thermo-electric 
instruments.  These  gentlemen  were  assisted  by 
a  detachment  of  sailors  from  the  Alger,  and  their 
presence  quite  revolutionized  life  in  the  quiet 
little  town.'  The  outfit  of  M.  Deslandres  was 
probably  the  most  elaborate  and  complete  bat- 
tery of  spectroscopic  instruments  ever  brought 
to  bear  on  an  eclipse  by  any  single  expedition. 
Also  appliances  were  not  omitted  for  pictorial 
photography  of  the  corona. 

Preparations  of  the  Amherst  expedition  have 
already  been  alluded  to,  with  automatic  arrange- 
ments whereby  electricity  is  made  to  do  the 
work  of  many  observers,  thus  extending  many 
fold  the  precious  two  or  three  minutes  of  totality, 
rich  with  tantalizing  stores  of  coronal  wealth. 


278  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Fastened  upon  one  great  central  axis,  made  to 
follow  the  sun  by  the  glycerine  clock,  were  the 
Lyman  twelve-inch  reflector  from  the  Amherst 
Observatory,  the  Draper  fifteen-inch  reflector 
from  Harvard,  an  Edgecomb  eight-and-one-half- 
inch  reflector,  numerous  object  glasses  by  Alvan 
Clark  &  Sons,  the  largest  of  which  were  a  ten- 
inch  lens  lent  by  Harvard  and  one  of  seven  and 
a  quarter  by  Amherst,  a  six-inch  objective  made 
by  Schroeder  of  Hamburg,  and  a  great  variety  of 
photographic  doublets  by  the  Gundlach  Optical 
Company,  and  Bausch  and  Lomb  of  Rochester ; 
and  a  fine  lens  by  Goerz  of  Berlin.  In  addi- 
tion were  polariscopes  arranged  and  lent  by  Dr. 
Wright  of  the  Sloane  Laboratory  of  Yale  Uni- 
versity, two  spectroscopes  from  Harvard  Obser- 
vatory and  the  Massachusetts  Institute  of  Tech- 
nology, and  a  wheel  photometer  for  measuring 
variations  of  intensity  in  the  total  light  of  the 
corona. 

All  this  apparatus  was  individually  connected 
with  the  electric  commutator  (invented  by  Pro- 
fessor Todd  and  made  by  Mr.  Thompson  for  this 
eclipse),  a  slowly  revolving  copper  cylinder  fu-ll  of 
pins  each  of  which  represented  a  certain  move- 
ment of  one  particular  instrument  at  a  given 
fraction  of  a  second.  Each  pin  in  the  barrel 
had  an  engraved  number  adjacent,  indicating  the 
precise  second  of  totality  when  it  passed  beneath 


THE    ELECTRIC   COMMUTATOR 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI  279 

the  circuit  comb  ;  and  as  ninety  thousand  posi- 
tions of  pins  are  possible,  obviously  a  catalogue 
of  each  motion,  the  time  it  takes  place,  and  the 
instrument  to  which  it  belongs,  became  a  neces- 
sity. 

This  the  Astronomer  had  made  at  sea  on  the 
way  to  Japan,  with  details  of  execution  com- 
pletely worked  out,  so  that  the  whole  apparatus, 
with  an  almost  human  intelligence,  might  exe- 
cute its  programme  flawlessly. 

The  whole  thing,  most  complicated  to  invent 
in  all  its  practical  working,  but  absolutely  simple 
in  manipulation,  was  set  up  and  adjusted  in  time, 
and  its  working  was  perfect;  at  a  touch  of  the 
electric  key,  plates  came  into  place,  were  ex- 
posed, covered,  and  passed  out,  and  new  ones 
brought  up  for  exposure,  —  all  with  the  preci- 
sion of  a  machine.  Thus  was  demonstrated  the 
practicability  of  applying  an  unlimited  amount 
of  apparatus,  automatically,  to  the  various  and 
fertile  problems  of  eclipse  research.  It  is  pos- 
sible, with  the  arrangement  now  perfected,  to 
take  between  four  and  five  hundred  pictures  of 
the  corona  in  two  minutes  and  a  half ;  and  that 
without  having  to  depend  upon  fluctuations  in 
the  nervous  systems  of  a  crowd  of  observers, 
many  of  whom  (it  is  to  be  hoped  in  justice  to 
their  sense  of  the  sublime  in  nature)  might  fre- 
quently be  so  affected  by  the  spectacular  part 


280  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

of  an  eclipse  that  routine  work  would  suffer. 
Tests  were  constantly  made,  and  everything 
progressed  rapidly. 

A  more  nearly  ideal  headquarters  than  the 
old  schoolhouse  could  hardly  be  imagined  for  a 
practical  astronomer.  The  long  main  room  was 
made  a  sort  of  workshop  for  the  completion  and 
putting  together  of  apparatus.  Down  one  step 
another  larger  space  was  turned  by  screens  and 
hangings  into  a  series  of  small  sleeping  apart- 
ments for  the  various  members  of  the  expedi- 
tion ;  while  dining-room,  kitchen,  apartment  for 
cook  and  assistants,  a  large  office  for  the  Pro- 
fessor in  one  corner  of  which  our  sleeping 
arrangements  were  shut  off  by  a  tall  folding 
screen, — all  were  under  the  same  generous  roof. 
It  was  luxurious  camping  out.  True,  when  Pro- 
fessor Deslandres  or  Commander  Boutet  called 
they  had  sometimes  to  be  received  in  the  dining- 
room,  their  refined  faces  projected  against  a 
background  of  shadows  where  hams  and  bacon 
hung  dimly  from  rafters  in  the  commissary  de- 
partment ;  but  that  was  only  a  part  of  the  general 
unusualness  of  the  experience. 

Directly  opposite  were  telegraph  and  post- 
offices,  —  the  former  swift  and  reliable,  the  latter 
sure,  but  dependent  upon  packhorses  to  and 
from  Wakkanai,  or  visits  of  occasional  steamers. 

Outside   a    long   sliding    window   of   the   old 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI  281 

schoolhouse,  with  its  protecting  bars  of  wood,  an 
interested  circle  gathered  as  soon  as  the  new 
arrival  had  seated  herself  beside  it,  at  the  Pro- 
fessor's study,  table.  Children  and  young  girls, 
mothers  with  babies  on  their  backs,  even  bent 
old  grandmothers,  collected  to  glimpse  this 
strange  sight.  But  no  child  was  too  small  or  of 
too  low  a  class  to  drop  a  tiny  curtsey  when  it 
came,  with  an  amiable  ohayo  (good  morning),  and 
when  harmless  curiosity  was  gratified  the  same 
little  figure  made  another  quaint  bow  politely 
bidding  adieu  in  familiar  sayonara.  When  the 
gaze  of  every  looker-on  was  accompanied  with 
such  well-bred  manners,  who  could  complain  at 
being  a  centre  of  attraction  ? 

Across  the  street  at  one  of  the  little  houses 
fish  could  be  bought  at  certain  early  morning 
hours.  Family  life  went  on  innocently  in  full 
view,  and  very  amusing  were  the  ante-breakfast 
attempts  of  French  sailors  to  purchase,  by  a 
curious  jargon  of  French  and  Japanese,  with 
even  an  English  word  now  and  then. 

But  when  prices  or  lack  of  mutual  understand- 
ing roused  their  ire  the  resultant  linguistic  babel 
became  too  laughable. 

One  might  have  seen  much  of  the  village  life 
from  that  sliding  window  alone.  Women  did 
their  washing  in  the  street,  entertaining  one 
another  meanwhile  by  continual  conversation. 


282  CORONA   AND   CORONET 


Diagonally  opposite  was  an  artistic  lamp-post, 
belonging  to  a  neat  and  airy  native  tea-house, 
where  pretty  girls  sat  in  the  veranda,  guests  came 
and  went,  and  rows  of  bright  lanterns  swung 
every  evening. 

The  village  population  is  composed  largely  of 
colonists  from  the  south,  attracted  to  these  re- 
mote shores  by  herring  and  salmon  fishing.  For 
less  than  ten  years  has  the  little  hamlet  been 
really  established ;  the  Japanese  are  not  fond  of 
colonizing  new  regions,  and  only  the  money  so 
easily  made  in  spring  and  autumn  would  have 
lured  them  from  their  natural  habitat.  At  those 
seasons  the  number  of  dwellers  in  Esashi  rises 
from  seventeen  hundred  to  nearly  four  thou- 
sand. 

The  master  fishermen  become  quite  wealthy, 
employing  from  thirty  to  fifty  men,  some  of 
whom  are  Ainu,  in  the  actual  labor  of  setting  nets 
and  bringing  in  the  spoil.  They  have,  too,  much 
variety  in  their  lives,  often  living  at  Hakodate  in 
the  winter,  and  taking  frequent  business  journeys 
to  Tokyo.  Their  children  attend  good  schools, 
often  colleges,  and  their  houses  are  full  of  beauty 
and  tasteful  arrangement.  As  the  potential 
wealth  of  the  Hokkaido  becomes  more  widely 
appreciated,  probably  it  will  not  long  be  left  to 
merely  primeval  loneliness.  All  these  colonists, 
while  distinctively  Japanese,  yet  live  in  sufficient 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI  283 

harmony  with  the  Ainu,  whose  primitive  villages 
are  near  by  in  all  directions. 

Strolling  pilgrim-beggars  in  dingy  white  soli- 
cited alms  with  much  unmelodious  music,  —  there 
were  attempts  at  matsuri  where  in  place  of  the 
gorgeous  floats  of  Kyoto  were  devotees,  not  rid- 
ing in  elegance,  but  walking  amid  artificial 
cherry  blossoms  in  little  floorless  inclosures 
under  canopies  simulating  rolling  cars,  —  a  pa- 
thetic deception  deceiving  nobody ;  and  more 
secular  festivals  occurred,  booths  were  erected, 
plays  performed,  and  female  wrestlers  contended. 

My  first  walk  abroad  as  the  first  foreign  wo- 
man visitor  in  Esashi  was  a  memorable  occasion 
—  to  both  entertainer  and  entertained.  Chief 
escorted  me  through  the  principal  thoroughfares, 
followed  by  an  imposing  procession  whom  in- 
tense wonder  kept  absolutely  speechless.  But  at 
last  one  ecstatic  small  boy  in  dark  blue  kimono 
tucked  up  to  allow  freedom  of  limb  motion  re- 
covered breath  sufficiently,  while  marching  close 
beside  the  principal  performer,  to  produce  a  tin 
trumpet,  upon  which  he  blew  vociferously,  attract- 
ing the  attention  of  all  beholders.  This  body- 
guard augmented  at  every  corner,  and  the  whole 
thing  partook  of  the  nature  of  a  triumphal  pro- 
gression. Most  of  the  followers  were  Japanese, 
but  a  few  Ainu  haunted  the  outskirts  of  the 
throng,  with  stately  tread  and  lofty  expression, 


284  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

apparently  looking  for  nothing  unusual,  and  giv- 
ing no  evidence  of  curiosity,  yet  never  failing  to 
see  every  foreign  figure  within  range.  Humbly 
accompanying  their  lords,  women  and  children 
followed,  —  far  less  imposing  than  the  men. 
Larger  and  apparently  stronger  than  the  Japan- 
ese, although  not  taller,  the  older  men  are  actu- 
ally patriarchal,  with  their  long  beards,  and 
masses  of  thick  hair  parted  in  the  middle,  while 
on  many  faces  the  expression  is  as  benign  and 
lofty  as  that  of  a  pictured  apostle.  Part  of  the 
walk  that  evening  was  over  the  pathway  of  clean 
sand  spread  for  the  Emperor's  portrait.  In  these 
far  and  simple  villages  the  old-time,  acute  rever- 
ence for  everything  pertaining  to  royalty  is  de- 
lightfully and  solemnly  preserved. 

But  Esashi  is  not  really  picturesque,  —  the 
wreck  of  a  native  steamer  cast  up  on  the  beach 
by  storms  of  the  previous  November,  with  the 
rough  tent  near  by  where  its  supposed  watch- 
ers lived  a  more  than  primitive  life,  verged  on 
the  picturesque ;  but  the  Ishikawa-maru  was  not 
sufficiently  beaten  in  pieces  to  typify  that  quality 
dear  to  artists. 

Perhaps,  after  all,  it  was  most  nearly  ap- 
proached by  a  small  Shinto  temple  close  to  the 
shore,  with  a  neatly  kept  graveled  courtyard 
and  two  handsome  torii,  one  of  fine  granite. 
The  ministering  priest,  an  odd-looking  Japan- 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI 


ese  with  a  sparse  beard  and  an  indifferent  expres- 
sion, spent  an  uneventful  existence  largely  in 
watering  handsome  plants  growing  in  vases  and 
jars  around  the  temple. 

In  the  same  inclosure,  rising  abruptly  from 
the  rocks  of  the  shore,  perhaps  fifty  feet  high, 
stood  a  little  lighthouse  in  which  every  night  a 
student  lamp  burned  dutifully.  A  narrow  plat- 
form around  the  summit,  reached  by  an  open 
outside  ladder,  was  the  point  from  which  I 
should  draw  the  long,  filmy  streamers  of  the 
outer  corona  during  the  precious  two  minutes 
and  forty  seconds  of  totality  on  August  ninth. 

One  important  project  was  necessarily  aban- 
doned. No  auxiliary  stations  could  be  estab- 
lished, as  planned,  upon  some  distant  range  of 
hills.  The  whole  region  was  simply  impassable  ; 
thick,  impenetrable  forests  clothed  every  height, 
while  scrub  bamboo  six  or  eight  feet  high  cov- 
ered all  the  open  country.  Footpaths  through 
it  from  one  village  to  another  never  left  the 
shore  for  any  distance,  and  no  telescopes  could 
be  transported  inland.  There  were  no  jinrik- 
isha,  or  roads,  or  carriages,  or  kago,  or  side- 
saddles, but  plenty  of  horses ;  and  many  a  mile 
of  Kitami  sands  has  felt  the  galloping  feet  of  my 
rough  little  Yezo  horse,  as  I  traversed  the  coun- 
try far  and  near,  while  the  astronomers  were  ad- 
justing apparatus,  and  testing  plates  and  object 
glasses. 


286  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

On  one  morning  ride  a  small  colt  started  with 
us,  its  mother  ridden  by  a  member  of  the  com- 
pany ;  but  after  a  mile  or  two  of  racing  it 
thought  better  of  the  trip,  and  returned  to  graze 
on  the  breezy  upland  moor.  Coming  home  about 
twilight  after  a  day  with  the  Ainu,  the  sweetly 
plaintive  cry  of  sandpipers  in  flocks  along  the 
beach  rose  familiarly  as  we  rode  at  a  great  pace 
on  the  narrow  margin  of  sand  above  high  tide ; 
and  a  sort  of  lonely  quail,  almost  a  whippoorwill 
note,  came  to  us  out  of  the  woods.  Through 
the  fast-falling  darkness  we  sped  away,  up  the 
bluff,  spattering  through  the  deep  mud  of  Esa- 
shi  street,  followed  by  the  wild,  welcoming  cries 
of  the  little  colt  we  had  left  behind. 

Hokkaido  horses  themselves  deserve  a  sepa- 
rate word.  They  seem  to  possess  an  abundance 
of  good  qualities  which  their  appearance  would 
scarcely  justify  our  anticipating.  Ordinarily  they 
use  two  gaits,  a  short,  quick  trot  —  rather  an  in- 
discriminate sort  of  scramble  —  and  a  smooth 
gallop,  rapid  and  comfortable.  Both  Ainu  and 
Japanese  are  fearless  and  skillful  riders  through 
the  narrow  paths  among  the  tall  undergrowth. 
Largely  of  scrub  bamboo,  as  already  mentioned, 
there  are  acres  here  and  there  superb  with  wild 
roses,  their  foliage  richly  green  like  the  Cher- 
okee rose ;  tall  spikes  of  burnt  weed  (Epilo- 
bium)  raised  familiar  torches ;  one  or  two  rare 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI  287 

orchids  were  seen ;  and  graceful  clusters  of 
purple  nightshade  were  now  and  again  turning 
into  green  and  yellow  and  crimson  berries. 
White  chamomile,  irresistibly  suggesting  dusty  , 
roadsides  in  New  England,  grew  as  large  and 
high  as  marguerites,  while  "  butter  and  eggs " 
carpeted  the  ground,  growing  flat  against  the 
sandy  soil,  well  down  to  its  tryst  with  the  creep- 
ing surf. 

A  few  deciduous  trees  appeared  among  the 
evergreens,  their  autumn  coloring  reported  as  very 
brilliant. 

Horse-flies  of  scintillating  green,  over  an  inch 
long  but  not  aggressive,  were  noticeable  residents 
of  the  village,  —  overrun  also  by  crows,  thou- 
sands perching  on  every  gable  and  ridgepole, 
and  filling  the  air  with  flaps  of  dusky  wings  and 
occasional  impious  remarks.  Hawthorne  was 
discriminating  when  he  asserted  that  crows  can 
have  no  real  pretension  to  religion,  in  spite  of 
sober  mien  and  black  attire,  because  they  are 
certainly  thieves  and  probably  infidels.  But  in 
Yezo  they  are  safe  from  molestation  and  propor- 
tionally saucy. 

An  Ainu  legend  relates  that  in  time  long  ago, 
the  evil  one  was  contending  with  God,  frustrat- 
ing his  designs  wherever  possible.  Seeing  that 
men,  his  especial  creation,  could  not  live  with- 
out the  life-giving  warmth  and  light  of  the  sun, 


288  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

he  determined  to  get  up  long  before  sunrise,  and 
swallow  the  "  lord  of  day  "  so  soon  as  he  should 
appear.  But  God  sent  a  crow  to  circumvent  him. 
When  the  sun  was  rising,  the  evil  one  opened 
his  mouth,  but  a  crow  flew  down  his  throat  in- 
stead, thus  saving  the  great  luminary.  Men 
therefore  should  ever  be  grateful  to  crows ;  and 
crows  know  it,  indulging  themselves  in  conse- 
quence. They  feel  no  terror  of  a  scarecrow, 
flocking  near  in  great  numbers,  and  even  perch 
lovingly  on  its  shoulder. 

The  morning  evolutions  of  six  crows  and  a 
black  cat  were  worthy  an  eloquent  description. 
Three  on  each  side  of  her,  they  attacked  singly 
and  on  alternate  sides,  her  nearest  neighbor 
pecking  savagely  and  flying  away  to  the  end  of 
the  row  when  she  retaliated ;  while  the  next 
moved  up  and  continued  the  sport  as  soon  as  the 
cat  had  turned  upon  and  vanquished  the  nearest 
crow  on  the  opposite  side.  That  particular  pussy 
must  have  been  puzzled  to  understand  why, 
always  worsted  and  driven  away,  the  number  of 
her  enemies  remained  on  either  side  unchanged. 
This  cat  for  some  reason  had  a  tail,  —  unlike  the 
proper  Japanese  species. 

Early  dawn,  just  after  sunrise,  and  when  far- 
ther naps  had  been  effectually  banished  by  the 
awkward  two-steps  of  these  favored  crows  upon 
our  shingle  roof,  was  the  favorite  time  for  offi- 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI  289 

cial  calls.  A  knock  was  followed  by  the  en- 
trance of  our  interpreter,  Mr.  Oshima,  an  able 
student  sent  from  Sapporo  by  the  governor ; 
and  following  him  were  one  and  another  —  mem- 
bers of  the  Board  of  Education,  or  government 
officials,  or  local  magnates. 

With  morning  coffee  on  our  part,  and  gifts  of 
interesting  fossils  and  jasper  of  the  region  on 
theirs,  these  occasions  were  mutually  gratifying. 
Fortunately  a  Japanese  kimono  was  quite  full 
dress,  which  simplified  matters  from  toilet  stand- 
points. 

We  received  these  gentlemen  in  the  Profes- 
sor's office  or  headquarters,  around  whose  walls 
on  very  convenient  shelves  he  had  arranged  for 
safety  until  needed  numberless  eyepieces,  lenses, 
electrical  appliances,  a  few  books,  object-glasses 
in  shining  brass  holders,  levels,  transit  lamps, 
photographic  plates,  —  everything  one  could  im- 
agine needful  for  an  astronomical  expedition. 

During  one  of  these  impromptu  ante-breakfast 
receptions  at  five  in  the  morning,  the  mayor  of 
the  town,  glancing  round  our  apartment,  gave 
utterance  to  a  long  and  elaborate  speech,  —  duly 
accompanied  by  low  bows  and  friendly  smiles, — 
evidently  the  daintiest  of  oriental  compliments'. 
In  effect  it  was  that  in  these  shelves  the  chil- 
dren of  the  school  had  been  wont  to  keep  their 
shoes  in  former  days ;  and  that  he  hoped  a  sort 


290  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

of  reflex  action  from  the  wonderful  objects  now 
filling  the  same  spaces  might  extend  to  every 
child  whose  straw  or  wooden  clogs  had  once 
occupied  them,  imparting  to  each  something  of 
the  devoted  scientific  spirit  now  animating  the 
"famous  men"  who  had  come  so  far  to  see  a 
sublime  celestial  spectacle. 

A  leading  citizen  of  Esashi,  Mr.  Hiroya,  had 
an  airy  house  facing  the  sea,  which  every  night 
was  gayly  illuminated  by  hundreds  of  paper  lan- 
terns swinging  in  rows  and  loops  along  the  front, 
and  he  invited  us  to  an  elaborate  dinner  the 
evening  after  my  arrival.  His  pretty  little  bride 
sat  slightly  apart,  exquisitely  dressed  in  gray 
silk  with  an  obi  of  richest  brocade,  smiling  and 
looking  like  a  picture  against  the  background 
of  fine  kakemono,  handsome  kibachi,  and  bronze 
vases. 

Japanese  cooking  shows  many  grades,  and  on 
this  particular  evening  everything  was  deliciously 
cooked  and  entirely  palatable  to  foreign  taste. 
Possibly,  however,  I  should  except  one  delicacy 
in  the  shape  of  a  black  shell-fish,  a  sea  cucum- 
ber perhaps,  which  the  other  guests  seemed  to 
take  with  avidity.  Captain  Kimotsuki,  Professor 
Terao,  our  official  interpreter  Oshima-san,  and  a 
number  of  others  were  present,  among  them  a 
gentleman  formerly  governor  of  a  northern  pro- 
vince, containing  many  Ainu  villages.  He  en- 


AINU   ABOUT  TO   DRINK    SAKE 


ESASHI  IN  KITAMI  291 

tertained  us  by  clever  imitations  of  certain  Ainu 
habits  in  eating,  drinking,  and  holding  inter- 
course with  guests.  He  not  only  speaks  their 
isolated  language,  but  is  personally  acquainted 
with  every  individual  of  that  nation  in  the  vicin- 
ity ;  and  as  he  kindly  volunteered  to  take  me 
to  all  the  houses  within  riding  distance,  here  was 
a  solution  of  the  vexed  question  of  personal  ap- 
proach to  these  shy  people,  —  perhaps  also  a 
solution  of  Professor  Morse's  problem,  the  col- 
lection of  Ainu  relics.  When  our  kindly  host, 
and  his  servants  with  lanterns,  conducted  us 
back  to  the  schoolhouse  camp,  visions  of  eclipses 
and  Ainu,  telescopes  and  weaving  outfits,  horse- 
back rides  and  treasure  boxes  mingled  in  new 
association  invitingly  in  the  future,  and  to  the 
rhythmic  beat  of  the  surf  dreams  continued  the 
picture. 


CHAPTER   XXVIII 

IN    AINU    LAND 
With  grave  faces  turned  toward  oblivion. 

SPECIAL  steamers  and  men-of-war  on  the  sea, 
and  cheerful  eclipse  camps  on  shore,  brought  a 
surprising  summer  to  the  northern  coast  of  Yezo, 
and  the  innocent  Ainu  will  probably  date  future 
history  from  this  peaceful  invasion  of  foreigners. 
It  is  a  happy  thing  that  some  spots  are  still  left 
on  this  fair  earth  where  modern  enterprise  and 
cosmopolitan  life  can  still  afford  astonishment. 

Among  the  books  so  constantly  written  upon 
Japan  in  all  aspects,  numbering  not  far  from  a 
thousand,  little  in  proportion  has  been  put  forth 
in  English  relating  to  the  Ainu. 

Ethnologists  in  the  Orient  are  largely  divided 
as  to  whether  the  aborigines  of  Japan  should  be 
called  Ainu  or  Aino,  and  there  are  strong  reasons 
in  favor  of  each  form,  both  of  which  are  used  by 
different  Japanese  authorities.  Upon  inquiring 
of  several  prominent  chiefs  of  the  nation  as  to 
how  they  called  themselves,  and  which  name  they 
preferred,  the  answer  was  "  Ainu  "  invariably,  with 
distinct  emphasis. 


IN  AINU  LAND  293 


The  people  of  this  race  would  naturally  be 
described  as  "hairy,"  even  their  limbs  and  bodies 
being  often  quite  thickly  covered,  yet  some  ac- 
counts of  this  characteristic  have  been  exagger- 
ated ;  and  the  number  of  hairs  on  a  square  inch 
of  an  Ainu's  head  is  said  not  to  exceed  that  upon 
an  equal  surface  of  a  European's.  The  illustra- 
tions show  them  as  not  unlike  the  bearded  peas- 
ants of  Russia;  certain  ethnologists  hold  that 
they  are  probably  members  of  some  branch  of 
the  Aryan  family,  others  that  they  are  akin  to 
the  Eskimo. 

Gentle,  and  subservient  to  the  conquering  Jap- 
anese, it  is  evident  that  the  Ainu  formerly  held 
more  egotistic  views  than  now,  even  fancying 
themselves  the  centre  of  the  universe,  as  shown 
perhaps  by  an  old  national  song :  "  Gods  of  the 
sea,  open  your  eyes  divine.  Wherever  your  eyes 
turn,  there  echoes  the  sound  of  the  Ainu  speech." 

Learned  discussion  is  still  in  progress  among 
Japanese  scholars  as  to  a  probable  Koro-pok-gurut 
or  race  of  dwarf  pit  -  dwellers,  "  people  of  the 
hollows,"  who  may  have  lived  before,  or  partly 
contemporary  with  the  early  Ainu,  and  of  whom 
traces  are  supposed  to  remain  in  various  locali- 
ties. Ainu  themselves  insist  that  they  once 
fought  and  exterminated  these  people.  And  to 
the  end  of  the  twelfth  century  constant  warring 
between  Ainu  and  Japanese  went  on,  evidences 


294  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

of  struggle  still  remaining  throughout  the  empire. 
Arrowheads  and  stone  axes  are  found  in  many 
parts  of  Yezo,  and  in  shell-heaps  are  bones  of 
animals,  pottery,  and  bones  peculiar  to  the  Ainu, 
who  would  themselves  be  no  farther  advanced  in 
civilization  than  the  stone  age  were  it  not  for  the 
ease  of  obtaining  Japanese  knives  and  swords. 
Their  primitive  utensils  of  bark  seem  to  serve 
them  as  well  as  more  elaborate  implements.  To 
an  ethnologist  Yezo  is  full  of  interest,  from  pre- 
historic pottery,  evidence  of  pit  -  dwellings  and 
problematic  Koro-pok-guru,  to  present  habits  of 
Ainu  life. 

Gradually  driven  through  ages  from  the  south 
to  Hokkaido,  the  Ainu  are  among  the  few  races 
yet  retaining  in  this  over-civilized  age  an  utterly 
unspoiled  simplicity.  Their  actual  beginning  has 
never  been  satisfactorily  traced,  but  they  cer- 
tainly were  in  Japan  before  the  present  race  of 
Japanese  had  arrived,  and  many  names  clearly 
originating  in  the  Ainu  tongue  are  still  retained 
all  over  the  kingdom. 

The  oldest  of  Japanese  books  (the  Kojiki,  or 
"Records  of  Ancient  Matters "),  written  in  712 
A.  D.,  has  this  characteristic  sentence  :  "  When 
our  august  ancestors  descended  from  heaven  in  a 
boat,  they  found  upon  this  island  several  bar- 
barous races,  the  most  fierce  of  whom  were  the 
Ainu."  Whatever  they  may  have  been  at  that 


IN  AINU  LAND  295 

remote  epoch  it  would  be  difficult  to  imagine 
a  more  amiable  nation  than  the  few  thousand 
present  remnants  of  this  once  numerous  people. 
Yet  they  are  barbarians  pure  and  simple  in  spite 
of  their  gentleness,  an  interesting  folk-lore,  and 
the  practice  of  considerable  ceremony  and  forms 
of  etiquette  upon  certain  occasions.  They  have 
no  literature,  no  written  language,  and  their  arts 
are  the  simplest.  Contact  with  cultivated  Japa- 
nese for  hundreds  of  years  seems  to  have  taught 
them  little  or  nothing  —  but  extreme  docility. 
Full  of  a  sense  of  kindly  hospitality,  they  have 
no  ambition,  and  no  apparent  capacity  for  mental 
training.  It  is  said  that  the  descendant  of  a 
certain  Ainu  prince,  or  high  chieftain,  is  now 
perfectly  content  to  black  the  boots  of  an  Ameri- 
can in  Sapporo.  If  a  genuinely  strong,  forceful 
leader  were  to  appear  in  the  race,  he  might  arouse 
them.  But  they  have  no  great  men.  Attempts 
at  education  seem  to  last  only  during  the  process. 
Returning  to  their  own  villages,  they  lapse  into 
their  former  state,  or  a  placid  forgetfulness. 

My  exploring  expeditions  to  Poronaibo  and 
other  Ainu  villages  near  Esashi  began  at  once,  in 
a  method  quite  primitive  enough  to  accord  with 
surroundings.  The  good  ex-governor  was  inde- 
fatigable. Giving  most  generously  of  his  time 
and  personal  influence  with  these  retiring  people, 
as  well  as  his  skill  in  speaking  their  language, 


296  CORONA  AND  CORONET 

my  facilities  for  acquiring  an  unusual  acquain- 
tance with  their  curious  habits  were  exceptional. 
Casual  travelers  visiting  more  accessible  Ainu 
villages  in  the  south  of  Yezo  with  an  ordinary 
Japanese  guide  see  little  of  their  striking  race 
customs ;  but  coming  with  their  especial  friend 
and  master,  I  was  treated  more  as  an  honored 
guest  than  as  an  inquisitive  stranger  full  of  doubt- 
ful intentions.  Everything  which  might  be  of 
interest  was  joyfully  brought  forth.  The  fact 
that  for  the  first  time  a  foreign  woman  was 
within  their  borders  excited  much  curiosity,  and 
in  all  the  villages  they  were  no  less  glad  to  see 
me  than  I  was  to  study  their  strange  implements 
and  habits.  So  with  exceeding  good-humor, 
communication  made  easy  by  my  helpful  friend, 
our  mutual  ethnologic  studies  progressed  nobly. 
I  think  it  was  a  California  paper  which  remarked 
some  months  later  in  commenting  upon  my 
unique  journey  that  probably  I  was  quite  as  much 
of  a  "  freak  "  to  the  Ainu  as  they  could  be  to  me 
—  undoubtedly  true,  but  a  somewhat  unvarnished 
statement. 

There  were  drawbacks,  however,  to  protracted 
calls  upon  the  Ainu,  for  both  personally  and  in 
their  houses  they  are  quite  as  dirty  as  the  Japa- 
nese are  phenomenally  clean.  Bathing  is  un- 
known, and  their  dwellings  are  dark,  uncomfort- 
able abodes,  and  far  from  fragrant.  Each  has 


IN  AINU  LAND  297 


two  small  holes  for  windows, — one  east,  the  other 

• 

south.  Ainu  know  the  points  of  compass,  and 
some  writers  have  insisted  that  their  houses  in- 
variably face  in  one  way.  But  I  saw  numbers 
facing  in  a  variety  of  directions,  —  east,  north,  and 
west.  The  east  end  of  the  house  and  its  window 
are  sacred,  and  outside  is  a  row  of  poles  upon 
which  the  master  of  the  house  has  stuck  the 
skulls  of  animals  killed  in  the  hunt,  among  them 
many  inao,  or  "  god-sticks  "  as  offerings  to  numer- 
ous deities  whose  aid  is  so  constantly  invoked. 
Hale  o  Keawe,  or  Hawaiian  tomb  for  the  bones  of 
chiefs,  had  its  outside  fence  of  idols,  twelve  being 
set  in  pillars  in  a  semicircle  around  the  south- 
east end,  —  a  curious  similarity  in  the  customs 
of  widely  separate  nations. 

The  raised  part  of  the  floor,  as  in  ordinary 
Japanese  houses,  has  a  square  or  rectangular  hole, 
where  during  my  visits  fagots  were  always  burn- 
ing, —  long  sticks,  stretching  out  over  the  floor, 
burning  at  one  end,  until  short  enough  to  lie 
wholly  within  the  fire-hole,  whose  left  side  is  re- 
served for  the  master  of  the  house. 

Smoke,  although  supposed  to  find  its  own  way 
out  of  a  hole  in  the  roof,  seemed  to  prefer  loiter- 
ing among  rafters  and  beams,  —  the  hanging 
medley  of  household  possessions  and  drying  fish 
above  were  draped  deep  with  soot.  A  jumble  of 
domestic  debris  usually  lay  in  corners  and  around 


298  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

the  sides  of  the  room,  and  always  piles  of  elm 
fibre  (atsu)  ready  to  be  pulled  apart  into  threads 
and  woven  into  the  coarse  cloth  (attusJi)  worn  by 
both  men  and  women.  This  wood-fibre  is  obtained 
from  two  kinds  of  elm,  Ulmus  montana  {ohiyo), 
and  Ulmus  campestris  (akadama}.  It  is  pulled 
from  the  standing  tree,  started  with  blows  from 
short  knives  carried  by  the  men,  and  peeled  off 
in  a  strip  perhaps  a  foot  wide  and  often  twenty 
feet  long.  The  ohiyo  is  laid  in  pools  of  water 
exposed  to  the  sun,  where  the  bark  soon  separates 
from  the  wood-fibre  proper,  which  is  then  split 
into  ten  strips,  and  dried  slowly  to  prevent  its 
becoming  brittle.1  The  strips  are  afterward  still 
farther  split  into  threads  not  over  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  wide,  the  various  threads  tied  together,  and 
wound  into  balls,  five  or  six  inches  in  diameter, 
many  of  which  were  conspicuous  in  every  Ainu 
house  visited.  The  women  weave  the  thread  into 
durable  cloth  about  the  width  of  native  Japanese 
material,  in  pieces  over  thirty  feet  long,  or  about 
six  and  one  half  times  the  length  of  the  extended 
arms.  Such  a  strip  occupies  in  the  weaving  three 
or  four  days  ;  and  the  garment,  when  ornamented 
with  indigo  blue  Japanese  cotton  sewed  on  in 
fanciful  figures,  is  far  from  unpicturesque. 

Okiyo  makes  a  brown  and  reddish  cloth,  aka- 

1  The  akadama  is  chewed  instead  of  being  soaked  in  water ; 
otherwise  it  is  treated  in  the  same  way  as  the  ohiyo. 


IN  AINU  LAND  299 


dama  bright  tan ;  another  cloth  made  of  urtica 
fibre  is  only  used  for  burial  purposes. 

I  called  at  one  house  to  see  a  very  old  man. 
The  roof  was  thickly  thatched  with  scrub  bamboo, 
and  within  lay  a  middle-aged  man  sound  asleep 
upon  the  floor,  with  one  arm  thrown  over  his  face, 
his  bushy  hair  and  beard  making  a  weird  frame- 
work. Two  or  three  shy  children  were  eating 
rice  near  the  fire-hole,  over  which  was  suspended 
an  iron  pot,  full  of  an  indescribable  stew,  bubbling 
vigorously.  A  pretty  young  girl  sat  sewing  orna- 
ments of  dark  blue  Japanese  cotton  upon  an  elm- 
fibre  garment ;  and  an  older  woman,  barefooted, 
with  hair  cut  very  short  behind,  was  curled  in  a 
tiny  heap,  looking  up  at  me  from  under  her  arm 
with  eyes  as  bright  and  wondering  in  their  soft 
darkness  as  those  of  some  shy  and  startled  forest 
animal. 

Family  treasures,  as  usual,  were  piled  around 
the  room  in  chaotic  masses,  conspicuous  among 
them,  as  everywhere,  several  shundoku,  round 
boxes  with  four  feet,  of  old  Japanese  lacquer,  in 
which  everything  of  most  value  is  kept,  and  which 
the  owner  will  part  with  last,  if  misfortune  over- 
takes him.  Frequently  handed  down  through 
generations,  an  Ainu  not  fortunate  enough  to  in- 
herit one  will  often  work  a  year  to  obtain  such 
a  highly  prized  case. 

An  ancient  legend  relates  that  nearly  a  thou- 


3oo  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

sand  years  ago  their  hero  Yoshitsune,  brother  of 
the  Shogun  Yoritomo,  in  escaping  to  the  Hok- 
kaido from  his  enemies,  took  refuge  in  one  of 
these  lacquer  boxes,  miraculously  enabled  to  re- 
ceive him,  and  was  conveyed  away  by  a  loyal  ad- 
herent to  a  place  of  safety.  This  is  often  given  in 
explanation  of  Ainu  devotion  to  these  recepta- 
cles ;  and  also  of  the  holes  in  the  lacquer  supports 

—  through  which  cords  were  said  to  have  been 
passed,  thence  across  the  shoulders  of  that  "  faith- 
ful one  "  whose  back  received  the  precious  burden, 

—  a  widespread  fiction.     Kakemono  representing 
Yoshitsune  are  brought  out  on  feast  days  and  re- 
verently hung. 

At  length  through  the  low  doorway  approached 
the  old  man  we  had  come  to  visit,  but  the  room 
was  so  dark  that  his  fine  face  could  hardly  show 
in  detail.  He  was  an  impressive  figure,  with  a 
magnificent  brush  of  white  hair  and  beard. 

But  oh  !  the  smoke  and  odors ;  soot,  close  air, 
dim  light,  huddling  family  ;  the  mental  as  well  as 
physical  atmosphere  was  stifling,  and  I  was  forced 
to  seek  the  intense  relief  of  a  full  breath  of  outer 
oxygen,  and  sunshine.  Emerging,  the  first  object 
my  eyes  happened  to  fall  upon  was  the  French 
cruiser  lying  off  in  the  open  roadstead  of  Esashi. 
Such  are  the  sharp  and  immediate  contrasts  in 
this  interesting  world,  —  on  one  hand  an  epitome 
of  high  civilization,  on  the  other,  Ainu  huts  and  a 


OLD   ALNU   CHIEFTAIN 


IN  AINU  LAND  301 

near-at-hand  study  of  an  aboriginal  race  now  rap- 
idly dying  out  from  sheer  inability  to  maintain  it- 
self in  the  face  of  a  more  brilliant  nation. 

One  night  a  dinner-party  upon  the  French  man- 
of-war,  —  the  next  morning  a  visit  to  a  primitive 
hovel  within  plain  sight,  where  books  had  never 
been  heard  of,  where  furniture  is  unknown,  where 
lives,  sleeps,  eats,  weaves,  is  born  and  dies,  upon 
the  floor  around  a  boiling  pot  of  dreadful  herbs, 
an  entire  family  whose  one  relief  from  intolerable 
monotony  is  the  occasional  bear-killing  and  feast. 

Salutation  between  Ainu  men  is  elaborate  and 
exceedingly  respectful.  Stretching  out  their 
hands,  the  fingers  are  allowed  to  pass  softly  back 
and  forth  along  the  palms  for  some  time,  during 
which  verbal  greetings  and  best  wishes  are  ex- 
changed. Stroking  their  long  beards  slowly  is 
the  part  most  obvious  to  a  foreigner ;  while  a  gen- 
tle and  inarticulate  sound  is  made  in  the  throat, 
intended  to  convey  consideration  and  appreciation. 
The  formal  salutation  sometimes  lasts  but  a  few 
minutes,  though  often  much  longer.  Women  in- 
dulge in  very  humble  greeting  to  the  men,  part  of 
which  consists  in  rubbing  the  upper  lip  under  the 
nose  with  the  forefinger.  Preliminary  motions 
having  been  made  to  attract  a  man's  attention 
sufficiently  for  him  to  indicate  that  she  may  pro- 
ceed, she  waits  his  invitation  to  speak.  When  a 
man  is  met  out  of  doors,  women  always  step  aside 


302  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

to  give  him  room  to  pass.  But  with  all  this  hu- 
mility, although  they  do  all  the  work  with  con- 
stant industry,  and  even  the  consolations  of  the 
most  primitive  religion  are  denied  them  (for  wo- 
men are  not  even  allowed  to  pray  since  they  are 
generally  supposed  to  possess  no  souls),  neverthe- 
less, an  angry  woman  is  one  of  the  things  most 
dreaded  in  Ainu  land.  The  variety  of  bad  names 
at  her  command  to  call  the  offending  person  is 
stupendous,  and  the  number  of  adjectives  with 
which  she  can  heap  abuse  is  really  startling.  She 
does  not  scruple  to  make  faces  and  otherwise 
annoy  and  frighten  whoever  may  have  incurred 
her  anger;  and  the  lords  of  Yezo  are  terribly 
afraid  of  a  woman  in  this  state  of  mind,  for  there 
seems  hardly  any  end  to  the  vindictive  perform- 
ances with  which  she  will  afflict  a  man  who  has 
displeased  her,  especially  if  he  be  her  husband. 
The  very  worst  thing  she  can  do,  however,  is 
to  hide  his  "  god-sticks,"  or  destroy  them.  The 
deities  can  hardly  be  supposed  to  discriminate  as 
to  the  person  making  away  with  the  sacred  sym- 
bols, and  a  man  who  neglects  his  inao  becomes  an 
outcast ;  the  gods  being  supposed  to  desert  him, 
men  follow  suit. 

Women,  continually  repressed  and  allowed  no 
part  in  religion,  probably  sometimes  become  so 
reckless  as  to  fear  neither  gods  nor  man,  for  sui- 
cides among  them  are  not  uncommon.  After 


IN  AINU  LAND  303 


early  youth  they  are  by  no  means  to  be  compared 
with  the  men  in  fine  appearance.  Many  girls  are 
handsome,  but  the  women  of  middle  age  are  char- 
acterized by  a  stolidly  dull  expression  of  indiffer- 
ent and  weather-beaten  resignation. 

Long  ago,  in  the  first  days  when  travelers 
caught  sight  of  Ainu  women,  it  is  not  strange 
that  they  were  described  as  wearing  mustaches, 
since,  from  a  short  distance  away  the  heavy,  blue- 
black  tattooing  around  the  lips  gives  exactly  that 
unlovely  effect.  The  process  of  producing  such 
mouth-decoration  is  described  as  exceedingly  pain- 
ful, but  the  Ainu  women  have  borne  it  heroically, 
sustained  by  their  happy  certainty  of  a  beautify- 
ing result.  Horizontal  slashes  are  made  with  a 
sharp  knife,  crossed  by  slanting  cuts  very  close 
together  and  subsequently  opened  wider.  Color- 
ing matter,  made  from  the  soot  of  birch  wood 
scraped  from  the  bottom  of  an  iron  kettle,  is  then 
rubbed  in  unflinchingly,  and  afterward  washed 
with  water  in  which  ash  bark  has  been  soaked,  to 
produce  an  indelible  stain.  For  two  or  three  days 
the  lips  are  so  swollen  and  sore  that  moving  them, 
or  attempting  to  eat,  is  almost  impossible.  But 
when  once  healed,  imagine  the  satisfaction  of 
emerging  among  one's  friends  and  enemies,  deco- 
rated for  life !  Many  women  have  their  hands, 
wrists,  and  arms  similarly  treated,  showing  shad- 
owy rings  and  bracelets  in  every  available  spot; 


304  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

and  I  saw  a  few  with  heavily  ornamented  fore- 
heads. Young  girls  are  attractive,  for  the  dismal 
tattooing  was  forbidden  by  the  Japanese  govern- 
ment about  eleven  years  ago,  and  while  not  abso- 
lutely suppressed,  it  must  be  done  surreptitiously, 
and  is  far  less  frequent  than  formerly.  Their 
clear  brown  skin  generally  shows  a  warm  russet 
red  in  the  cheeks,  and  beautiful  dark  eyes  are 
shaded  by  long  and  thick  eyelashes.  In  the 
younger  generation,  too,  the  luxuriant  black  hair 
is  often  simply  coiled  instead  of  being  cut  in  the 
strangely  awkward  native  way,  perfectly  short  at 
the  back  of  the  head  nearly  halfway  to  the  top, 
and  standing  out  thickly  on  each  side  like  an  over- 
grown hearth  -  brush.  A  blue  and  white  Japan- 
ese towel  is  sometimes  rather  artistically  twisted 
around  the  head.  It  has  been  reported,  though  I 
did  not  notice  this,  that  wives  of  chiefs  wear  a 
string  wound  six  times  round  the  waist,  those  of 
common  men  but  three.  Ainu  women  do  not 
blacken  their  teeth,  as  Japanese  fashion  formerly 
decreed  for  married  women  of  that  nation,  but 
they  have  handsome  teeth,  white  and  even.  Inor- 
dinately fond  of  jewelry  of  whatever  material,  the 
richest  woman  is  she  who  owns  the  largest  num- 
ber of  necklaces,  made  of  large  porcelain  or  stone 
beads  with  huge  circular  ornaments  suspended 
from  them,  sometimes  pieces  of  leather  studded 
with  bits  of  brass  or  German  silver.  The  beads 


AINU  WOMAN  CARRYING  CHILD  AND   BURDEN 


IN  AINU  LAND  305 


are  undeniably  picturesque,  many  of  a  brilliant 
turquoise  blue,  and  oddly  mottled  ones  brought 
from  Saghalien.  These  necklaces  are  worn  at 
bear-feasts,  when  everything  is  in  gala  array  for 
the  only  great  occasions  of  the  Ainu  year. 

Of  course  I  wished  to  purchase  one  of  these 
characteristic  ornaments ;  and  at  last  I  found  a 
woman,  who,  contrary  to  the  usual  custom,  thought 
she  would  like  some  money ;  and  rather  sadly,  yet 
with  much  pride,  brought  forth  a  box  containing 
five  bead  necklaces.  She  was  certainly  a  person 
of  great  consequence ;  but  she  fingered  her  pos- 
sessions lovingly,  looking  regretfully  at  her  cher- 
ished riches,  though  allowing  me  to  examine 
them,  while  she  said  softly  in  her  strange  native 
tongue  that  the  foreign  lady  might  take  her 
choice.  Personally  she  would  undoubtedly  have 
been  satisfied  with  very  little  money ;  but  an  old 
Japanese  man  in  the  village,  of  much  apparent 
authority,  sent  word  to  her  that  as  he  had  origi- 
nally purchased  the  beads  before  she  had  come 
into  possession  of  them,  he  would  tell  her  their 
exact  worth.  Whereupon  he  proceeded  to  esti- 
mate the  value,  bead  by  bead,  making  the  gentle 
Ainu  woman  open  her  soft  brown  eyes  in  amaze- 
ment under  their  long  lashes,  and  causing  con- 
siderable discouragement  in  the  breast  of  the 
would-be  purchaser.  We  came  to  an  ultimate 
understanding,  however,  and  I  bore  the  necklace 
away  in  triumph. 


306  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

When  some  person  of  high  rank  in  the  nation 
comes  to  an  Ainu  house,  a  formal  and  ceremoni- 
ous sake  drinking  takes  place.  A  drop  is  whisked 
off  the  "  mustache-lifter  "  to  the  god  of  the  sun, 
Chippu  Kamui  in  the  Ainu  language ;  next,  one 
to  the  god  of  mountains,  Kimon  Kamui,  then  the 
god  of  the  sea,  Atoi  Kamui,  to  the  god  of  Hok- 
kaido, Mushirori  Kamui,  the  god  of  villages,  Ko- 
tangoro  Kamui,  the  god  of  the  house,  Tsuigoro 
Kamui,  the  god  of  fire,  Abe  Kamui,  and  to  the 
god  of  all,  Obishida  Kamui,  who  is  included  last 
with  a  comprehensive  sweep  of  the  mustache- 
lifter  around  the  whole  room.  Only  the  first  cup 
of  sake  must  be  thus  dispersed  to  the  reigning 
powers;  all  subsequent  drops  being  religiously 
kept  for  the  active  participants  in  the  ceremony, 
who  may  then  proceed  to  enjoy  themselves  with 
light  hearts.  These  carved  sticks,  used  to  lift  the 
heavy  hair  from  the  lip  when  drinking,  are  often 
elaborately  ornamented. 

During  one  of  my  rides,  a  number  of  rivers  had 
to  be  crossed,  either  by  fording,  or  by  a  primitive 
boat  pulled  across  by  a  rope.  One  village  of 
about  twenty  houses  was  close  to  a  stream,  and 
as  we  rode  directly  to  the  ferry,  in  order  to  get 
luncheon  at  a  Japanese  house  a  mile  or  two  be- 
yond, several  thickly  bearded  men  followed  to 
watch  and  perhaps  assist  the  embarkation,  while 
a  handsome  girl  ran  down  to  beg  that  we  should 


IN  AINU  LAND  307 

stop  on  the  return ;  for  she  must  see  the  foreign 
lady,  fearing  no  other  would  ever  visit  the  village. 
A  withered  old  crone,  bent  quite  double,  and 
walking  with  much  difficulty  by  aid  of  a  long  staff 
whose  curiously  carved  top  reached  high  above 
her  head,  hobbled  after,  giving  voluble  directions 
to  the  men  about  getting  us  over  the  river.  Quite 
different  from  the  expression  of  the  older  women 
generally,  her  face  had  a  keen,  cunning,  almost 
sinister  look,  and  bushy  white  hair  stood  out  on 
both  sides  as  if  electrified.  Huge  hoops  of  Ger- 
man silver  ornamented  her  ears,  and  a  broad  brass 
bracelet  her  tattooed  arm.  Her  mouth,  too,  was 
heavily  tattooed,  and  she  held  her  elm-fibre  robe 
tightly  together  with  one  shriveled  hand.  Across 
the  river  her  small,  sharp  eyes  followed  us,  even 
after  we  had  struck  into  a  quick  gallop  on  the 
beach  beyond.  A  weird  fascination  hung  about 
this  odd  antiquity,  and  fortunately  on  the  return 
a  hard  shower  necessitated  taking  shelter  in  the 
house  where  she  seemed  to  live. 

Around  were  grouped  daughters  and  grand- 
daughters, both  generations  with  babies  strapped 
upon  their  backs,  Japanese  fashion,  all  but  the 
youngest  girls  showing  the  disfigurement  of  blue- 
black  stripes  around  the  lips.  Fagots  burned  as 
usual  in  the  square  hole,  and  lying  about  it  were 
a  number  of  lazy  Ainu  men,  their  strong,  almost 
prehensile  toes  luxuriously  spread  out  to  the 


308  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

blaze.  The  whole  household  made  way  politely 
for  the  drenched  foreigner  and  her  companions, 
—  producing  tea  and  sweetmeats  after  hats  and 
gloves  had  been  taken  to  the  fire  to  be  dried.  It 
was  here  that  one  of  the  younger  girls  promised 
to  give  an  Ainu  dance ;  but  afterward,  overcome 
by  shyness,  she  slipped  away. 

Several  women  were,  as  usual,  industriously  en- 
gaged in  sewing  upon  the  aprons  and  kimono  of 
elm-fibre  different  figures  cut  from  Japanese  cot- 
ton ;  and  one  was  weaving  the  woody  cloth  in  a 
primitive  loom  quite  handsomely  carved.  It  was 
a  strange  scene,  —  dark  room,  fitfully  flickering 
fire,  idle  men  with  their  noble  faces,  industrious 
women  working  by  the  firelight  or  leaning  toward 
the  faint  light  coming  in  at  an  open  door  from  the 
clouded  day  without,  and  the  visitors  in  the  midst 
of  them,  treated  as  honored  guests  yet  not  dis- 
turbing the  family  routine.  Just  outside,  the  drip- 
ping horses  waited  to  be  remounted,  ready  to 
resume  their  miscellaneous  scramble  or  free,  wild 
gallop  back  to  Esashi,  while  sharp-nosed  dogs 
with  glorious  thick  yellow  coats  peered  in  at  the 
door. 

I  found  here  a  small  man,  dark  and  very  hairy, 
with  a  gentle  expression,  who  was  willing  to  sell 
"the  best  bow  in  the  village."  He  had  actual 
tears  in  his  eyes  as  he  told  me  how  many  bears  it 
had  shot,  but  that  now,  since  hunting  with  poisoned 


IN  AINU  LAND  309 

arrows  was  forbidden,  he  saw  no  use  in  keeping  it 
longer,  —  a  small  tragedy  in  its  way. 

The  Ainu  seem  to  consider  the  world  as  round, 
yet  they  are  quite  ignorant  of  astronomy,  and  re- 
gard the  Milky  Way  as  the  "  river  of  the  gods," 
affording  excellent  sport  to  divinities  who  spend 
their  time  fishing  in  it.  I  discovered  that  great 
fear  is  held  of  comets,  or  "broom  stars."  They 
call  one  lunation  a  month,  and  twelve  lunations 
a  year.  In  their  language  star  is  kidda,  the  sun 
chipkommoi,  and  the  moon  kuny  chipkommoi. 

Fish,  and  in  later  years  rice,  with  a  few  vege- 
tables cultivated  by  women,  certain  lily  bulbs  and 
seaweed,  form  their  usual  food,  bear's  meat  and 
venison  being  great  luxuries. 

In  early  spring,  when  the  deep  snows  of  a  Yezo 
winter  are  yet  hard  upon  the  ground,  the  mighty 
Ainu  hunter  sets  forth  upon  the  only  occupation 
which  seems  to  him  worthy  of  manly  attention. 
The  favor  of  the  gods  is  always  asked  before 
starting  out  on  one  of  these  exciting  and  momen- 
tous excursions,  the  deities  presiding  over  moun- 
tains, rivers,  springs,  and  fire  being  entreated  in 
turn  to  lend  aid  to  the  enterprise.  After  the  bear 
has  been  killed,  either  in  its  den  where  it  still  lies 
partially  torpid  until  warmer  weather,  or  just  out- 
side, having  been  annoyed  into  emerging,  or  in 
the  pit  where  it  has  been  decoyed,  the  hunters 
make  profound  obeisance  to  this  object  of  their 


310  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

admiration.  Spring-bows  or  traps  are  sometimes 
stretched  in  the  woods,  when  the  unhappy  bear 
shoots  himself.  Upon  returning  to  the  village  the 
whole  scene  is  related  in  realistic  fashion  to  those 
left  behind,  while  the  deities  are  praised  for  their 
gracious  presence  which  brought  success  to  the 
hunt,  and  sake  is  taken  in  unlimited  quantities 
with  bear's  meat  at  the  great  feast.  Getting  stu- 
pidly drunk  upon  sake  is,  indeed,  the  chief  vice 
of  an  otherwise  amiable  and  harmless  race.  It  is 
said  that  of  the  Ainu  men  nine  out  of  ten  are  sake 
drunkards.  Fortunately  the  women  are  not  con- 
sidered worthy  to  receive  enough  of  the  precious 
liquid  to  reduce  them  to  any  such  state. 

Bear  cubs,  often  taken  alive,  are  nourished  and 
brought  up  by  the  women  in  the  same  way  as  very 
young  infants.  This  curious  fact,  stated  by  some 
writers,  has  been  as  vigorously  denied  by  others ; 
but  Esashi  held  many  eye-witnesses  to  the  reality  of 
this  barbarous  custom.  When  the  baby  bear  gets 
too  large  for  a  safe  playmate  in  the  house,  a  great 
entertainment  is  made  to  which  guests  are  invited, 
even  from  distant  villages ;  the  women  are  arrayed 
in  all  their  pomp  of  jewelry  and  beads,  some  going 
so  far,  it  was  asserted,  as  to  wash  their  hands. 
The  men  put  on  their  head-dress  of  shavings,  and 
the  sacred  sticks  of  shaven  willow  are  stuck  in  the 
hearth  as  offerings  to  the  gods.  The  little  bear  is 
then  killed  in  a  very  cruel  manner,  after  his  pardon 


IN  AINU  LAND  311 

is  asked  for  doing  away  with  him.  Scenes  of  rev- 
elry follow  for  two  or  three  days,  when  sake  is 
again  drunk  to  excess,  and  rioting  prevails  until 
the  meat  is  all  eaten.  Then  the  village  resumes 
its  wonted  dullness.  Bear  festivals,  now  becoming 
rarer,  are  the  opera,  theatre,  afternoon  tea,  recep- 
tion, and  dinner-party  of  the  Ainu. 

Shooting  bears  with  poisoned  arrows  has  now, 
like  tattooing  the  mouth,  been  forbidden  by  gov- 
ernment. The  poison  with  which  the  hollow 
groove  in  the  arrow-head  was  filled  was  made 
from  a  combination  of  the  brains  of  crows,  ashes 
of  tobacco,  and  two  kinds  of  insects,  one  of  them 
the  krombi,  a  water  insect  found  attached  to  sticks 
and  stones,  the  other  called  yonsike.  These  four 
ingredients  mixed  together  and  allowed  to  decay 
form  a  strong  poison.  Sometimes,  however,  the 
deadly  nightshade  was  used  instead.  In  Saghalien 
aconite  roots  are  cleaned  and  scraped,  then  sliced 
and  pounded  to  powder,  which  is  boiled  and 
strained,  boiled  again,  and  carefully  put  away, 
perhaps  in  a  shell.  Six  dead  spiders  are  boiled, 
and  put  in  another  shell ;  and  the  gall  from  three 
freshly  killed  foxes  is  also  boiled  by  itself.  These 
three  concoctions  are  then  mixed,  and  the  strength 
of  the  combination  tested  by  touching  it  to  the 
tongue. 

Ainu  implements,  garments,  and  utensils  have 
often,  like  lacquer  treasure-boxes,  been  handed 


312  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

down  for  uncounted  years.  Frequently  a  family 
has  but  one  of  each  article,  and  that  highly  prized, 
which  accounts  for  a  prevailing  disinclination  to 
sell  their  possessions.  To  buy  anything  from  an 
Ainu  house  requires  tact  and  diplomacy  even  more 
than  that  necessary  in  purchasing  old  mahogany 
or  china  from  some  unwilling  but  hesitating  eld- 
erly lady  on  a  lonely  New  England  country  road. 
My  knowledge  of  the  Ainu  tongue  being  even  less 
than  my  familiarity  with  Japanese,  I  left  all  these 
little  amenities  to  my  companion,  only  telling  him 
that  I  would  buy  everything  they  were  willing  to 
sell.  His  persuasiveness,  and  the  promise  of  un- 
limited sake  besides  purchase  money,  brought  me  a 
miscellaneous  collection  of  Ainu  robes  of  elm-fibre, 
and  one  of  highly  ornamented  salmon  skin,  bows 
and  a  quiver  of  poisoned  arrows,  weaving  appa- 
ratus, carved  "  mustache  lifters,"  tobacco  boxes, 
knife  handles  and  sheaths,  and  a  rude  stringed 
instrument.  He  also  induced  them  to  part  with 
other  dearly  cherished  heirlooms  ;  and  one  or  two 
pieces  of  old  Japanese  lacquer,  made  for  Ainu  use, 
have  found  their  way  to  a  distant  land,  as  well  as 
more  primitive  utensils  of  birch  bark.  The  larger 
part  of  this  collection  has  gone  to  Professor  Morse, 
and  has  become  part  of  the  Peabody  Museum  at 
Salem.  I  have,  too,  a  wooden  eating  bowl,  rudely 
carved.  As  it  was  never  washed,  but  merely 
wiped  out  with  the  finger  after  using,  it  has  ac- 


IN  AINU  LAND  313 

quired  a  rich  and  polished  brown  surface.  I  do 
not  use  it  for  bonbons.  A  "deer-call"  I  did  not 
find,  —  a  bamboo  instrument  with  skin  stretched 
across,  by  which  the  cry  of  deer  is  imitated. 

Aprons,  ankle  coverings,  and  bands  passing 
around  the  forehead  by  which  women  carry  heavy 
burdens  on  their  backs,  all  made  of  elm-fibre  cloth, 
I  succeeded  in  obtaining ;  and  still  better,  two 
"god-sticks,"  the  inao  mentioned  before.  They 
are  not  idols,  but  more  properly  offerings  to  the 
god.  Maple  and  willow  are  commonly  used,  one 
end  being  converted  into  long  and  fine  curly  shav- 
ings, either  pulled  apart  in  a  fluffy  mass  or  kept  in 
different  sorts  of  careful  ringlets.  The  fluffy  one 
is  dedicated  to  the  god  of  fire,  the  smoothly  curled 
one  given  me,  to  the  god  of  the  mountains.  They 
refused  any  money  for  these  sticks,  which  are 
made  with  some  sort  of  sacred  ceremony,  but  sig- 
nified their  willingness  to  accept  a  few  quarts  of 
sake,  and  of  rice.  These  luxuries,  dedicated  to 
the  god  in  whose  honor  the  sticks  were  made,  are 
rededicated,  after  sufficient  time  has  elapsed,  to 
the  master  of  the  house  and  his  friends  in  a  more 
practical  way.  The  Ainu  near  Esashi  had  quite 
taken  me  to  their  innocent  hearts,  and  every  day 
some  of  them  came  with  one  thing  and  another, 
learning  that  I  really  enjoyed  their  utensils  and 
ornaments.  When  an  old  woman  appeared  at  the 
eclipse  station  carrying  one  of  their  greatly  valued 


314  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

round  lacquer  boxes,  with  permission  for  me  to 
buy  it,  I  felt  that  I  had  really  won  their  affection. 

In  these  northern  regions  Ainu  often  possess 
two  residences,  perhaps  because  of  the  extremely 
rigorous  climate  of  Yezo,  necessitating  greater 
shelter  during  deep  snows.  The  Sea  of  Okhotsk 
is  sometimes  blocked  with  ice  for  many  miles  from 
the  coast.  The  winter  home  is  called  in  their  own 
language  as  nearly  as  I  could  write  it,  riya  kotan, 
the  latter  word  meaning  "residing  place,"  while 
riya  is  the  equivalent  of  "to  pass  the  year,"  ap- 
plied to  the  winter.  Their  summer  home  seems 
to  have  no  corresponding  term,  but  if  in  Horo- 
betsu,  for  instance,  it  would  be  called  Horobetsu- 
tsui-karu,  "  to  build  "  in  that  town.  This  was  told 
me  at  Esashi  by  Japanese  who  speak  the  Ainu 
language,  and  by  an  Ainu  himself. 

As  a  people  they  are  very  superstitious,  and 
fortune-telling  prevails  to  a  certain  extent,  not  by 
the  lines  of  the  palm,  but  in  ways  quite  as  pictur- 
esque and  perhaps  not  less  effective.  After  dark 
the  fire  is  extinguished,  and  two  small  bamboo 
sticks  crossed  and  tied  together  are  laid  before  the 
fortune-teller,  who  begins  to  pray  aloud.  Before 
long,  so  an  intelligent  Ainu  told  me  seriously,  the 
bamboo  sticks  stand  upright  unaided,  and  are  said 
by  some  of  the  more  devout  actually  to  dance,  thus 
indicating  that  the  spirit  of  the  god  has  entered 
into  them,  and  is  quite  prepared  to  reveal  the 


IN  AINU  LAND  315 


unknown.  The  fortune-teller  is  then  moved  to 
speak  their  fate  for  others  in  the  assembly,  who 
keep  their  heads  devoutly  bowed. 

Medicines  and  care  of  the  sick  are  recent  inno- 
vations. Formerly,  when  a  person  became  ill,  he 
simply  wrapped  up  his  head  and  lay  down  uncom- 
plainingly to  die,  —  the  chief  attempt  to  circum- 
vent fate  being  prayers  to  the  gods,  although 
certain  herbs,  in  various  strange  decoctions,  were 
used  for  familiar  diseases.  Superstitious  ceremo- 
nies accompanied  drawing  out  evil  spirits,  and 
charms  were  given  to  bring  back  the  god  of 
health. 

But  when  death  has  actually  taken  place,  the 
subject  is  so  full  of  horror  that  the  Ainu  wish  to 
forget  it  as  soon  as  possible.  Some  necessary 
formalities  have  to  be  endured,  however.  Large 
household  fires  and  feasts  begin,  crowds  assemble, 
the  chief  treasures  of  the  dead  person  are  brought 
out,  and  countless  god-sticks  are  made  and  placed 
about  the  body  and  the  house.  Finally,  the  corpse 
is  buried,  and  they  try  at  once  to  forget  the  place 
of  burial,  although  sticks  cut  in  the  form  of  a 
spear,  for  a  man,  are  placed  at  the  grave  ;  but  the 
Ainu  will  not  tell  strangers  where  their  dead  are 
buried,  and  any  ethnological  collection  is  a  remark- 
able one  which  can  boast  a  "grave-post"  or  an 
Ainu  skull.  Each  grave  is  in  a  separate  locality, 
far  away  in  the  forest  or  among  the  mountains, 


316  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

and  fear  of  ghosts  is  so  great  that  the  survivors 
almost  never  visit  a  grave ;  the  posts  are  apt  to 
disappear  soon,  and  the  whole  matter  is  covered 
in  oblivion.  As  an  Ainu  stands  in  deadly  terror 
of  an  angry  woman,  so  he  fears  nothing  so  much 
as  the  ghost  of  an  old  woman,  thought  to  be  full 
of  maliciousness  and  power  for  evil.  A  sort  of 
belief  in  an  individual  immortality  is  thus  shown 
to  be  inherent,  in  spite  of  the  refusal  to  believe 
practically  that  a  woman  has  a  soul.  Some  of 
their  certainties  about  a  future  existence  would  be 
of  great  interest  to  psychical  societies. 

Few  tribes  remaining  anywhere,  indeed,  will  so 
well  repay  study,  yet  there  are  few  of  whom  so 
little  can  be  known.  With  no  written  language 
there  can  have  been  no  reliable  records,  and  their 
dread  of  speaking  of  the  dead  is  an  impediment 
to  the  accurate  transmission  of  verbal  history. 
Necessarily  the  Ainu  are  being  pushed  to  the 
wall  by  the  keen  and  brilliant  Japanese,  and  have 
well  been  said  to  live  "a  petrified  life."  Yet 
the  government  makes  wise  laws  for  protection 
of  these  children  of  the  nation,  and  acts  toward 
them  in  an  altogether  civilized  manner.  A  society 
exists  in  Sapporo  for  their  assistance,  which  num- 
bers among  its  members  several  distinguished 
Japanese  scholars,  one  of  them  Professor  Nagata, 
an  expert  in  Ainu  matters,  and  one  of  the  best 
historians  in  Japan.  One  result  only  is  inevitable 


IN  AINU  LAND  317 


from  the  collision  of  two  races  where  one  is  far 
inferior  and  the  other  is  masterfully  conscious  of 
itself. 

Although  a  late  census  numbers  about  17,000 
Ainu,  a  slight  gain  over  previous  years,  the  im- 
pression seems  to  be  generally  prevalent  that  they 
are  actually  and  steadily  dying  out.  Half-breeds, 
Ainu  and  Japanese,  rarely  survive  the  second  or 
third  generation.  The  race  evidently  lacks  force, 
and  will  be  entirely  unable  to  hold  its  own  in  the 
march  of  nations.  Bears  are  decreasing  in  num- 
ber; many  characteristic  customs  are  forbidden 
by  law,  and  will  soon  die  out  completely;  and 
gradual  extinction  of  the  race  will  be  a  pathetic 
feature  of  the  further  development  of  the  Hok- 
kaido. 

But  sun  and  moon,  in  their  inconceivable  flight 
through  space,  were  almost  in  line,  the  day  was 
close  at  hand,  and  my  interest  in  these  singularly 
fascinating  Ainu  was  lost  in  a  study  of  clouds  and 
weather  conditions,  the  working  of  apparatus,  and 
of  celestial  rather  than  earthly  curiosities. 

Summer's  climax  came  upon  Esashl 


CHAPTER   XXIX 

THE   ECLIPSE 

To  solemnize  this  day  the  glorious  sun 
Stays  in  his  course. 

SHAKESPEARE,  King  John,  III.  i. 

FRIDAY,  the  seventh  of  August,  dawned  por- 
tentously, with  a  strong  south  wind  and  drifting 
clouds.  It  was  very  warm,  and  bright  at  inter- 
vals. By  evening  rain  set  in,  and  all  night  tor- 
rents of  water  fell  on  the  roof  with  a  noise  like 
shot.  Saturday  brought  more  south  wind,  occa- 
sional rain,  moving  cloud.  Once  in  a  while 
spots  of  blue  shone  through  —  increasing  the 
nerve  tension.  The  Astronomer,  cheerful,  ener- 
getic, showed  no  sign  that  nature's  vagaries  and 
threats  were  disturbing  him,  but,  constantly  busy 
with  final  details,  passed  from  one  instrument  to 
another,  clear,  methodical,  definite.  Working  of 
apparatus  was  perfect ;  motions  were  made  with 
automatic  precision,  all  within  the  time  limit,  all 
without  human  intervention  except  to  press  a 
key  at  the  start  which  sent  electric  currents 
through  its  mysterious,  ramifying  nerves. 

Saturday  toward  evening  the  rain  suddenly 
ceased;  a  fresh  feeling  in  the  wind  disclosed  a 


THE  ECLIPSE  319 


change  to  the  hopeful  west,  bringing  a  superb 
sunset,  —  shreds  of  rose  and  salmon  and  laven- 
der glowed  against  a  yellow  background. 

During  the  two  days'  rain  none  of  our  usually 
multitudinous  callers  had  appeared ;  but  by  the 
light  of  sunset  a  dozen  or  more  came  together,  — 
guests  of  distinction  in  the  town  as  well  as  the 
village  officer  and  leading  citizens. 

Another  elaborate  speech  was  made,  explain- 
ing that  in  the  storm  their  hearts  had  failed 
them ;  they  could  not  look  at  this  fine  appara- 
tus, remembering  our  patient  preparation,  when 
a  chance  of  cloud  on  Sunday  might  ruin  every- 
thing ;  but  that  now  in  the  light  of  a  bright 
sunset  they  came  joyfully,  bringing  congratula- 
tions upon  the  weather  from  the  fishermen,  who 
were  said  to  know  all  signs  of  the  sky  ;  and  with 
hopeful  portents  from  a  book  of  prophecy  and  a 
local  oracle,  interrogated  at  a  neighboring  shrine. 
This  cheering  oracle  we  believed  the  more  read- 
ily as  telegrams  from  Sapporo  and  from  the 
Central  Meteorological  Observatory  at  Tokyo  an- 
nounced "  Clear  to-morrow !  "  In  truth  all  pro- 
mised happily. 

Stars  enough  came  out  in  the  evening  for  final 
tests  of  the  instruments,  and  everything  was  in 
readiness. 

Directions  for  observing  the  eclipse  had  been 
written  by  the  Astronomer,  translated  into  Jap- 


320  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

anese,  printed  and  distributed  to  inhabitants  all 
along  the  pathway  of  anticipated  darkness,  and 
some  school-teachers  in  the  village  were  to  ascend 
a  fairly  accessible  hill  near  by  with  implements 
for  drawing  the  corona,  and  with  a  photographic 
instrument  lent  from  our  camp. 

Sunday  dawned  through  a  heavy  shower.  Sun- 
shine succeeded  :  cloud  followed  blue  sky,  north- 
west wind  almost  supplanted  a  damp  breeze  from 
the  south  full  of  scudding  vapor.  And  still  the 
hours  rolled  on  toward  two  o'clock  and  "first 
contact." 

The  Astronomer  had  arranged  the  programme 
of  each  person  with  exactness  long  before.  He 
still  kept  calmly  at  work,  giving  final  directions, 
the  multitude  of  details  resolutely  kept  in  mind 
with  a  philosophy  as  imperturbable  as  if  skies 
were  clear,  and  cloudless  totality  a  celestial  cer- 
tainty. Vagaries  of  the  western  horizon,  the 
moods  of  wind  and  prevailing  drift  of  cirrus  and 
cumulus  had  no  farther  power  to  annoy  or  dis- 
tract. Time  was  too  precious.  It  remained  for 
the  unofficial  member  of  the  party  to  alternate 
between  such  hope  and  despair  that  nervous 
prostration  seemed  imminent.  She  watched  the 
attempt  at  clearing,  a  matter  of  but  a  few  hours, 
and  still  hoped  it  would  come  in  time. 

At  one  o'clock  almost  half  the  sky  was  blue  — 
two  o'clock,  and  the  moon  had  already  bitten  a 


THE  ECLIPSE  321 


small  piece  out  of  the  sun's  bright  edge,  still 
partly  obscured  by  a  dimly  drifting  mass  of  cloud. 
Half  after  two,  and  a  large  part  of  the  town  was 
ranged  along  the  fence  inclosing  our  apparatus, 
once  in  a  while  looking  at  the  narrowing  cres- 
cent, but  generally  at  our  instruments,  the  sober 
faces  in  curious  contrast  to  sooty  decorations 
from  their  bits  of  smoked  glass. 

And  then  perceptible  darkness  crept  onward, 
—  everything  grew  quiet.  The  moon  was  steal- 
ing her  silent  way  across  the  sun  till  his  cres- 
cent grew  thin  and  wan. 

The  Ainu  suppose  an  eclipse  is  caused  by  the 
fainting  or  dying  of  the  sun-god,  toward  whom, 
as  he  grows  black  in  the  face,  they  whisk  drops 
of  water  from  god-sticks  or  mustache  lifters  as 
they  would  in  the  case  of  a  fainting  person. 

But  no  one  spoke. 

Shortly  before  totality,  to  occur  just  after 
three,  Esashi  time,  Chief  and  I  went  over  to  the 
little  lighthouse  and  mounted  to  its  summit, — 
an  ideal  vantage  ground  for  a  spectacle  beyond 
anything  else  it  has  ever  been  my  fortune  to  wit- 
ness. 

A  camera  was  propped  up  beside  me,  with  a 
plate  ready  for  exposure  upon  sampans  and  junks 
near  by,  to  test  the  photographic  power  of  coro- 
nal light.  Black  disks,  carefully  prepared  upon 
white  paper,  had  been  distributed  to  a  number  of 


322  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

persons,  and  several  others  were  ready  on  the  lit- 
tle platform,  for  drawing  coronal  streamers. 

By  this  time  the  light  was  very  cold  and  gray, 
like  stormy  winter  twilight.  The  Alger  rested 
motionless  on  a  solid  sea.  A  man  in  a  scarlet 
blanket  at  work  in  a  junk  made  a  single  spot  of 
color. 

Grayer  and  grayer  grew  the  day,  narrower  and 
narrower  the  crescent  of  shining  sunlight.  The 
sea  faded  to  leaden  nothingness. 

Armies  of  crows  which  had  pretended  entire 
indifference,  gazing  abroad  upon  the  scene,  or 
fighting  and  flapping  on  gables  and  flagpoles 
with  unabated  energy,  at  last  succumbed  and 
flew  off  in  a  body,  friends  and  enemies  together, 
in  heavy  haste  to  a  dense  pine  forest  on  the 
mountain-side. 

The  Alger  became  invisible  —  sampans  and 
junks  faded  together  into  colorlessness ;  but 
grass  and  verdure  turned  suddenly  vivid  yellow- 
green.  A  penetrating  chill  fell  across  the  land, 
as  if  a  door  had  been  opened  into  a  long-closed 
vault.  It  was  a  moment  of  appalling  suspense ; 
something  was  being  waited  for  —  the  very  air 
was  portentous. 

The  circling  sea-gulls  disappeared  with  strange 
cries.  One  white  butterfly  fluttered  by  vaguely. 
Then  an  instantaneous  darkness  leaped  upon  the 
world.  Unearthly  night  enveloped  all. 


THE  ECLIPSE  323 


With  an  indescribable  out-flashing  at  the  same 
instant  the  corona  burst  forth  in  mysterious 
radiance.  But  dimly  seen  through  thin  cloud,  it 
was  nevertheless  beautiful  beyond  description,  a 
celestial  flame  from  some  unimaginable  heaven. 
Simultaneously  the  whole  northwestern  sky, 
nearly  to  the  zenith,  was  flooded  with  lurid  and 
startlingly  brilliant  orange,  across  which  drifted 
clouds  slightly  darker,  like  flecks  of  liquid  flame, 
or  huge  ejecta  from  some  vast  volcanic  Hades. 
The  west  and  southwest  gleamed  in  shining  lemon 
yellow. 

Least  like  a  sunset,  it  was  too  sombre  and  ter- 
rible. The  pale,  broken  circle  of  coronal  light 
still  glowed  on  with  thrilling  peacefulness,  while 
nature  held  her  breath  for  another  stage  in  this 
majestic  spectacle. 

Well  might  it  have  been  a  prelude  to  the 
shriveling  and  disappearance  of  the  whole  world, 
—  weird  to.  horror,  and  beautiful  to  heartbreak, 
heaven  and  hell  in  the  same  sky. 

Absolute  silence  reigned.  No  human  being 
spoke.  No  bird  twittered.  Even  sighing  of  the 
surf  breathed  into  utter  repose,  and  not  a  ripple 
stirred  the  leaden  sea. 

One  human  being  seemed  so  small,  so  helpless, 
so  slight  a  part  of  all  this  strangeness  and  mys- 
tery !  It  was  as  if  the  hand  of  Deity  had  been 
visibly  laid  upon  space  and  worlds,  to  allow  one 


324  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

momentary  glimpse  of  the  awfulness  of  crea- 
tion. 

Hours  might  have  passed  —  time  was  annihi- 
lated ;  and  yet  when  the  tiniest  globule  of  sun- 
light, a  drop,  a  needle-shaft,  a  pinhole,  reap- 
peared, even  before  it  had  become  the  slenderest 
possible  crescent,  the  fair  corona  and  all  color  in 
sky  and  cloud  withdrew,  and  a  natural  aspect  of 
stormy  twilight  returned.  Then  the  two  minutes 
and  a  half  in  memory  seemed  but  a  few  seconds, 
—  a  breath,  the  briefest  tale  ever  told. 

As  the  beautiful  corona  lay  there  in  the  clouds, 
a  soft  unearthly  radiance,  the  poetic  effect  as 
strong  as  if  in  a  clear  sky,  the  scientific  value 
lost  in  vapors,  it  was  still  noticeably  flattened  at 
the  poles  and  extended  equatorially,  and  must 
have  been  of  unusual  brilliance  to  show  so  dis- 
tinctly through  cloud.  The  shape  gives  sugges- 
tion to  astronomers  as  to  new  lines  of  future  re- 
search. 

Just  after  totality  a  telegram  came  from  the 
Astronomer  Royal  of  England,  far  away  on  the 
southeastern  coast  at  Akkeshi :  "  Thick  cloud. 
Nothing  done." 

Nature  knows  how  to  be  cruel,  or  possibly  it  is 
mere  indifference.  But  until,  in  his  search  after 
the  unknown,  man  learns  to  circumvent  cloud, 
I  must  still  feel  that  she  holds  every  advan- 
tage. On  that  fateful  Sunday  afternoon  the  sun, 


THE  ECLIPSE  325 


emerging  from  partial  eclipse,  set  cheerfully  in  a 
clear  sky ;  the  next  morning  dawned  cloudless 
and  sparkling. 

A  few  pictures  of  the  blurred  corona  were 
taken,  if  of  little  practical  use,  and  an  interest- 
ing experiment  for  Roentgen  rays  seemed  to  in- 
dicate their  presence  in  coronal  light,  —  a  curious 
result,  since  they  have  not  been  found  in  full 
sunlight. 

But  a  useful  and  tangible  outcome  of  the  expe- 
dition is  afforded  by  this  practical  demonstration 
that  a  great  number  of  instruments  can  be  em- 
ployed in  recording  the  corona  automatically,  not 
only  dispensing  with  the  multitude  of  assistants 
necessary  for  manipulating  each  at  critical  mo- 
ments, but  virtually  lengthening  the  precious 
minutes  of  totality  many  fold. 

The  corona,  thus  safely  caught,  can  now  be 
laid  on  our  tables  in  manifold  representations, 
and  interrogated  through  the  months  following 
an  eclipse  until  the  most  telling  questions  for  its 
next  coming  are  plainly  evident. 

And  Esashi  had  vindicated  its  choice.  Of  all 
the  places  where  meteorological  observations  had 
been  made,  it  proved  the  best  —  clouds,  that  is, 
were  thinnest. 

Nothing  appeared  upon  the  plate  exposed  to 
the  sampans  ;  coronal  light  was  not  strong  enough 
to  impress  them  upon  the  sensitive  surface. 


326  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

But  the  apparatus  remains  —  from  the  ap- 
proach of  the  idea  in  Shirakawa,  in  1887,  when 
it  was  roughly  but  accurately  carried  out  for  the 
eclipse  of  that  year ;  the  far  better  evolution  in 
West  Africa  in  1889  by  pneumatic  contrivances; 
and  the  smoothly  running  devices  intrusted  to 
electricity  in  Yezo  in  1896,  —  perfected  result  of 
three  cloudy  eclipses. 


CHAPTER   XXX 

A  NATIVE  CELEBRATION 

Whilest  that  the  childe  is  young  let  him  be  instructed  in  vertue  and  lyttera- 

ture. 

LYLY,  A  natomy  of  Wit. 

Thou  hast  most  traitorously  corrupted  the  youth  of  the  realm  in  erecting 

a  grammar  school. 

SHAKESPEARE,  2  Henry  VI.,  iv.  7. 

Schools  —  they  are  the  Seminaries  of  State. 

B.  JONSON,  Discoveries. 

IT  might  naturally  be  supposed  that  an  Ameri- 
can in  northern  Yezo  would  have  time  and  to 
spare.  The  facts  were  that  I  was  breathlessly 
hurried  every  day.  Always  there  were  more 
things  to  do  than  hours  for  their  accomplish- 
ment. The  Ainu  must  be  constantly  visited  and 
studied,  collections  of  ethnological  articles  in- 
creased, copious  notes  taken  of  all  queer  surround- 
ings, calls  received,  horseback  rides  up  and 
down  the  coast  (when  occasionally  a  horse  would 
lie  down  while  fording  a  stream,  —  merely  a  tem- 
porary inconvenience),  and,  most  distracting  of 
all,  the  new  school-building  was  dedicated  with 
elaborate  ceremonies,  followed  by  a  great  dinner, 
the  whole  occupying  an  entire  day. 

The   Japanese  are  soberly  and   deeply  inter- 


328  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

ested  in  education.  The  presence  in  this  re- 
mote region  of  so  many  members  of  the  Board 
from  southern  Yezo  for  the  coming  ceremonies 
sufficiently  attested  that.  And  the  eleventh  of 
August  was  the  great  day. 

There  was  a  certain  peculiarity  in  thinking  of 
Esashi  as  an  educational  centre,  but  the  doughty 
ex-governor,  through  whom  I  had  reached  the 
Ainu,  who  seemed  to  own  the  whole  region,  and 
to  whom  every  inhabitant  for  miles  around  bowed 
to  the  ground  when  he  passed,  comes  to  Esashi 
for  its  advantages  to  his  nine  children.  He  was 
a  Samurai  retainer  of  Matsumae  in  old  feudal 
days.  Generally  he  has  a  number  of  Ainu  as 
servants,  and  reported  that  they  do  excellently 
until  spring,  when,  being  consumed  by  a  desire 
to  drink  sake  to  excess,  they  become  practically 
useless.  He  is  a  sort  of  feudal  dignitary  him- 
self now,  and  had  just  built  an  immense  new 
house,  where  he  one  day  gave  an  elaborate  Japan- 
ese luncheon.  Eggs  were  served  in  six  different 
ways  ;  but  the  most  remarkable  dish  was  the  roe 
of  sea-cucumber,  kept  for  three  years  and  eaten 
with  a  few  drops  of  vinegar.  Pink  and  elastic,  it 
was  considered  a  great  delicacy. 

On  dedication  morning  he  accompanied  me 
for  an  ante-breakfast  walk  to  some  Ainu  houses 
near  by,  thus  far  omitted  in  my  longer  trips. 
All  the  way  relays  of  Japanese  children  were 


A  NATIVE  CELEBRATION  329 

met,  in  their  best  clothes  and  with  clean  and 
happy  faces,  starting  joyfully  for  school,  the 
little  girls  in  bright  kimono  and  obi,  their  hair, 
black  and  shining,  ornamented  with  gay  hair- 
pins, the  boys  in  white-crowned  black  caps,  gray 
or  dark  blue  kimono,  and  divided  skirts.  As  we 
passed  along,  the  friendly  governor  told  many 
interesting  tales  of  Saghalien,  where  he  lived  for 
several  years.  Curious  things  find  their  way  to 
Yezo  from  that  far  island,  and  amid  the  constant 
groups  of  smiling  children  his  talk  grew  remi- 
niscent. 

Six  races  inhabit  those  chilly  shores,  —  Ainu, 
Manchurian,  Kurin,  Oroku,  Nekubun,  and  Sau- 
ran.  The  governor  had  already  presented  me 
with  a  handsome  fur  rug  made  by  Kurin  women 
there  from  the  fine  head-fur  of  an  animal  some- 
what resembling  a  deer,  but  with  larger  feet  and 
heavier  ankles,  and  horns  showing  thirty  or  forty 
small  branches.  Natives  call  it  tonakai.  Mo- 
thers in  Saghalien  suspend  bark  from  the  rafters 
of  their  huts,  in  which  the  baby  is  swung,  a 
string  attached  from  it  to  the  foot.  Although  in 
1857  there  were  over  two  thousand  Ainu  there, 
they  have  now  dwindled  to  less  than  half. 

Returning  to  camp  for  breakfast,  a  committee 
of  officials,  including  the  vice-governor  of  Hok- 
kaido, and  governor  of  Kitami  and  two  other 
northern  provinces,  was  found  waiting  to  conduct 


330  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

the  Astronomer  to  the  school  building.  Very 
soon  an  imposing  procession  set  forth  for  that 
seat  of  learning,  surrounded  by  its  turf  fence. 
A  huge  triumphal  arch  of  evergreen  surmounted 
the  entrance  gate,  with  festoons  of  scarlet  and 
white  flags  and  lanterns.  Dignitaries  and  guests 
were  first  ushered  into  a  room  with  low  tables 
where  tea  was  served,  adjourning  afterward  to  the 
large  schoolroom  beyond,  filled  with  boys  and 
girls,  around  them  numerous  officials  of  educa- 
tion and  government,  and  a  few  Buddhist  priests 
with  finely  intellectual  faces.  Men  filling  na- 
tional positions  had  come  to  remote  Esashi  for 
this  occasion,  an  evidence  of  earnest  ambition 
along  the  best  lines. 

The  three  astronomers,  Professor  Deslandres, 
Professor  Terao,  and  Professor  Todd,  sat  near  the 
closed  shrine  of  exquisitely  smooth  wood,  brass 
ornaments,  and  royal  purple  drapery,  containing 
the  Emperor's  portrait.  On  a  corner  of  the  plat- 
form was  a  minute  musical  instrument  like  a 
tiny  parlor  organ,  also  covered  with  purple. 
At  three  single  notes  every  child  rose,  and,  drag- 
ging unconscionably,  all  sang  in  unison  the 
National  Anthem  (page  154).  Japanese  music 
avoids  half-tones  —  founded  upon  the  harmonic 
minor  scale,  the  intervals  most  frequently  sung 
are  strangely  unnatural,  the  tonic  playing  no 
apparent  part  whatever  in  the  basis  of  any 


A  NATIVE  CELEBRATION  331 

melody,  ending,  as  many  do,  in  mid-air  upon  the 
seventh.  The  singing  tone,  moreover,  is  exceed- 
ingly nasal,  quite  different  from  the  gentle,  or- 
dinary speaking  voice,  and  the  children's  throats 
actually  distended  with  pushing  and  squeezing 
the  notes. 

This  finished,  the  school  principal  rose,  faced 
the  sacred  cabinet,  and  bowed.  Opening  the 
doors  with  dignified  deliberation,  he  exposed  the 
portraits  of  Emperor  and  Empress,  whereat  every 
child  bent  to  the  floor,  remaining  in  that  position 
for  two  or  three  minutes  in  utter  silence.  At 
three  organ  notes  they  slowly  stood  upright  once 
more.  Facing  the  portraits,  the  principal  then 
gave  allegiance  and  congratulation  in  impressive 
tones,  while  all  bent  low  once  more,  and  the 
shrine  was  closed. 

A  long  box,  like  the  case  of  a  kakemono,  was 
next  produced,  and,  opening  it,  a  scroll  was  held 
up,  containing  the  Emperor's  message,  read 
aloud  while  all  school  heads  were  devoutly 
bowed. 

More  singing,  —  a  piece  ending  on  the  fourth 
of  the  scale  as  the  National  Anthem  does  on  the 
second,  —  and  the  good  mayor,  Shirasaka-san, 
rose  for  a  speech.  Still  more  singing  at  its  con- 
clusion, after  which  the  vice-governor  Suzuki- 
san,  read  from  an  imposing  document,  and  Some- 
san,  head  officer  of  the  Colonial  Department, 


332  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

addressed  the  assembly.  To  all  these  gentlemen 
the  school  rose  and  bowed  in  turn.  Happily  all 
the  speeches  were  short.  Some  others  had  also 
given  a  few  words,  but  their  positions  did  not 
entitle  them  to  bows.  Finally  one  of  the  school- 
boys read  some  sort  of  a  response  on  the  part  of 
the  scholars,  —  exceedingly  well  too  ;  and  another 
song  followed. 

Then  the  American  Astronomer  was  called 
upon  ;  the  children  rose  and  bowed,  and  remained 
standing  until  he  finished.  Among  other  things 
he  presented  the  school  with  a  fine  framed  pic- 
ture of  the  corona  of  1878,  one  of  the  famous, 
Trouvelot  drawings,  urged  them  to  have  English 
studied,  and  presented  some  books  we  already 
had  in  Esashi,  promising  others  sent  later  from 
Tokyo.  This  speech  was  gracefully  translated, 
sentence  upon  sentence,  by  clever  Mr.  Oshima. 
Afterward  Professor  Deslandres  made  a  short 
speech  in  French,  interpreted  by  Professor  Terao, 
who,  years  before,  had  studied  at  the  University 
of  Paris. 

The  mayor  thanked  the  Astronomer  for  his 
gifts  to  the  school ;  an  appetizing  Japanese  lun- 
cheon was  served,  the  baked  salmon  especially 
delicious,  and  so  the  new  building  was  fairly 
inaugurated. 

Later,  toward  sunset,  a  dinner  in  honor  of  the 
Americans  was  given  at  a  spacious  tea-house 


A  NATIVE   CELEBRATION  333 

newly  built  near  by,  the  stars  and  stripes  and 
red  sun  flags  draped  at  the  entrance,  the  feast 
occurring  in  a  large  upper  room  wide  open  on 
opposite  sides  to  sea  and  town.  With  much 
deliberation  the  worthies  assembled,  occupying 
nearly  three  hours  in  getting  there.  The  cook- 
ing was  exceedingly  fine,  the  serving  perfect. 
Maids  in  waiting  were  charmingly  dressed  in 
silk  crepe,  blue  or  pale  green,  with  magnificently 
brocaded  obi,  and  elaborately  smooth  hair,  like  an 
exquisite  picture.  A  wonder  would  irrelevantly 
intrude  itself  as  to  what  sort  of  waitresses  would 
be  encountered  in  a  "tavern"  in  the  wilds  of 
northern  Maine,  or  in  a  fishing  village  of  Nova 
Scotia,  localities  far  easier  of  access  than  this 
Okhotsk  shore. 

Just  before  the  feast  the  mayor  had  brought  in 
a  long  strip  of  white  satin  for  a  kakemono.  The 
Astronomer,  Chief,  and  I  were  requested  to  paint 
upon  it  either  pictures  or  poems.  Brushes, 
colors,  Japanese  ink,  and  water  accompanied  it. 
Chief,  of  course,  composed  an  original  verse. 
The  Professor  was  content  with  an  appropri- 
ate line  or  two  from  Shakespeare,  while  a  few 
rushes  in  one  corner  with  her  name  attested  the 
modesty  of  a  third  contributor.  Professor  Terao 
placed  his  personal  red  seal  upon  the  strip ;  and 
I  doubt  not  a  memorable  kakemono  now  adorris 
the  mayor's  residence. 


334  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

But  days  in  the  far-away  little  town  were  draw- 
ing to  an  end.  Every  time  I  came  back  from 
any  excursion  a  few  more  instruments  had  been 
taken  down,  a  few  more  boxes  packed,  a  few 
more  gifts  from  the  kindly  inhabitants  brought 
in,  as  well  as  prospective  kakemono  in  the  shape 
of  additional  strips  of  silk  and  satin  and  fine 
paper  for  verses  and  autographs.  Occasionally 
an  aged  Ainu  or  Japanese  was  found  awaiting 
my  return  with  farther  aboriginal  articles  which 
I  bought  with  alacrity  —  and  yen.  In  the  even- 
ings the  watchman  going  his  rounds  beating 
two  sticks  to  announce  his  faithfulness  lulled  us 
to  slumber,  and  the  final  day  came  on  apace. 

Captain  Boutet  of  the  Alger  had  courteously 
invited  the  Astronomer  and  his  companion,  also 
Chief,  to  return  to  Yokohama  on  that  famous 
cruiser.  A  special  Yusen  Kaisha  steamer,  already 
dispatched  from  the  south  for  the  expedition  and 
apparatus,  was  expected  daily. 

On  the  sixteenth  of  August,  a  lovely  summer 
day  with  a  hint  of  coming  coolness  in  the  air, 
the  Commandant  sent  his  gig  ashore  for  us,  and 
truly  reluctant  good-bys  were  said,  not  only  to 
expedition  members,  still  waiting,  but  to  the  few 
Ainu  shyly  looking  on  from  the  outskirts,  and  to 
a  crowd  of  warm-hearted  Japanese  who  had  done 
everything  in  their  power  for  our  assistance, 
honor,  and  pleasure.  Accompanying  the  gig  to 


A   NATIVE   CELEBRATION  335 

the  Alger  was  the  big  sampan  built  for  the  Em- 
peror's portrait,  now  filled  with  the  familiar  and 
friendly  faces  of  Shirasaka-san  (the  mayor) ;  the 
lovable,  big  ex-governor ;  Hiroya-san,  and  others 
who  never  ceased  waving  so  long  as  we  stood  in 
sight  upon  the  Commandant's  overhanging  after- 
balcony. 

But  the  lighthouse  where  I  witnessed  the 
eclipse  grew  smaller,  and  faded  ;  the  little  gray 
town  disappeared.  Esashi  was  but  a  memory,  sad 
yet  dear. 

Most  unlikely  is  it  that  we  shall  see  Yezo, 
much  less  Kitami  Province  again ;  but  a  warm 
spot  in  my  heart  still  glows  at  thought  of  this 
hospitable  village,  encompassed  by  impenetra- 
ble forest,  surrounded  by  aboriginal  Ainu,  and 
facing  the  far  north  over  the  uneasy  wastes  of 
the  Sea  of  Okhotsk. 

"  The  crimson  sunset  faded  into  gray ; 

Upon  the  murmurous  sea  the  twilight  fell; 
The  last  warm  breath  of  the  delicious  day 
Passed  with  a  mute  farewell. 

"  Above  my  head,  in  the  soft  purple  sky, 

A  wild  note  sounded  like  a  shrill-voiced  bell ; 
Three  gulls  met,  wheeled,  and  parted  with  a  cry 
That  seemed  to  say,  farewell." 


CHAPTER  XXXI 

VOYAGE  ON  A  FRENCH  CRUISER 

Et  puis,  peu  a  peu,  on  vit  s'dclairer  tres  loin  une  autre  chimere  :  une  sorte 
de  decoupure  rose"e  tres  haute,  qui  6ta.it  un  promontoire  de  la  sombre  Islande. 

PIERRE  LOTI,  PZcheiir  d 'Islands. 

Le  soleil  .  .  .  n'avait  plus  de  halo,  et  son  disque  rond  ayant  repris  des  con- 
tours tres  accuses,  il  semblait  plutot  quelque  pauvre  planete  jaune,  mouraute, 

qui  se  serait  arretde  la  indecise,  au  milieu  d'un  chaos. 

LOTI. 

BECAUSE  of  a  delightful  habit  of  the  Command- 
ant, the  Astronomer  and  I  were  enabled  to  cir- 
cumnavigate the  island  of  Yezo.  Avoiding  the 
same  course  in  going  and  returning,  Captain 
Boutet  always  varies  his  routes  when  possible, 
and  he,  like  ourselves,  had  reached  Esashi  by  the 
west  coast.  When  twilight  settled  over  the  gray 
sea,  L'Alger  was  well  along  toward  the  eastern 
end  of  the  island,  her  black  bow  pointed  almost 
due  east,  the  little  after-balcony  over  the  water 
holding  a  congenial  company,  —  the  two  astrono- 
mers and  the  Commandant  watching  the  fading 
shores,  while  I  sat  just  inside  the  door,  in  the 
dainty  salon  which  with  the  two  or  three  other 
apartments  forming  his  own  private  suite  Captain 
Boutet  had  devoted  to  his  newest  guest. 

He  has  been  an  indefatigable  and  discriminat- 


VOYAGE   ON  A   FRENCH  CRUISER  337 

ing  collector  of  fine  Japanese  and  Chinese  plates, 
platters,  and  odd  pieces  of  porcelain,  which  deco- 
rate superbly  the  walls  and  ceilings  of  these 
charming  rooms  when  in  port,  —  all  carefully 
packed  away  at  sea.  Still,  articles  enough  of  a 
less  frangible  nature  adorn  them  constantly,  to 
conceal,  or  at  least  to  grace,  the  solid  steel  walls 
of  this  great  war  vessel. 

"Automatic  photography  of  celestial  objects  is 
the  astronomy  of  the  future,"  Professor  Des- 
landres  was  saying,  as  the  waves  beneath  the 
balcony  grew  rougher,  and  the  three  came  in  to 
the  brightly  lighted  parlor,  gay  with  panels  and 
kakemono,  "  and  Professor  Todd  is  its  precursor 
and  prophet." 

His  interest  in  the  Amherst  apparatus  had 
been  strong,  as  ours  in  his  own  fine  spectro- 
scopes, and  many  delightful  calls  between  the 
two  stations  had  passed  at  Esashi.  But  this 
evening  at  sea  was  really  the  first  quiet,  unhur- 
ried, and  really  favorable  time  for  talking  over 
technical  matters ;  and  I  soon  left  them  for  the 
little  bedroom  with  its  square  window  opening  to 
wide  sea  and  sky,  the  fascinating  blue  dragon 
china  fittings,  each  a  separate  work  of  art,  and 
the  luxurious  bed,  compared  with  which  Japan- 
ese mats  in  the  dear  old  Esashi  schoolhouse  felt 
very  hard  even  in  remembrance. 

Fog  occasionally  drifted  up,  but  blue  sky  and 


338  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

sunshine  soon  followed  on  this  happy  voyage, 
and  a  few  hours  of  heavy  swells  necessitated  tak- 
ing in  the  balcony  floor.  The  course  was  laid 
definitely,  the  hour  of  arrival  in  Yokohama  an- 
nounced at  the  start  by  the  Commandant,  whose 
precision  of  movement  is  proverbial  in  the 
French  navy.  Steadily  the  course  was  made, 
our  exact  position  brought  to  him  several  times 
during  the  day.  Shikotan,  the  big  island  east  of 
Yezo,  was  passed,  and  the  southwest  course  for 
Yokohama  begun. 

L'Alger  is  three  hundred  and  forty-five  feet 
long,  and  of  more  than  four  thousand  tons  bur- 
then. Wholly  built  of  steel,  she  carries  formida- 
ble guns,  and  over  four  hundred  men,  of  whom 
about  thirty-six  are  officers,  the  commandant,  or 
Capitain  de  Vaisseau,  having  next  below  him  in 
authority  another  officer,  whose  title  is  Capitain 
de  frigate ;  next,  five  lieutenants,  and  others 
down  to  petty  officers. 

Every  morning  reports  of  all  kinds  are  handed 
in  to  the  Commandant ;  for  instance,  that  three 
tons  of  distilled  water  were  made  yesterday  — 
the  capacity  for  this  manufacture  being  eighteen 
tons,  seventeen  tons  being  now  on  hand ;  that 
yesterday  so  many  tons  of  coal  were  used,  leav- 
ing a  definite  number  still  in  her  bunkers.  Since 
the  Alger  can  carry  many  more  than  now  re- 
main, coaling  must  be  done  at  Yokohama,  before 


VOYAGE   ON  A   FRENCH  CRUISER  339 

the  voyage  to  Nagasaki.  Toward  that  favorite 
port  Captain  Boutet  says  his  engines  beat  joyful 
time,  repeating  in  their  throbbing,  "  Nagasaki, 
Nagasaki,  Nagasaki "  in  quick  iteration,  while 
if  the  orders  are  to  proceed  to  Korea,  sadly,  in 
funereal  time,  the  machinery  reluctantly  grinds 
out  "Chemul-po —  mul  —  po"  to  a  dirge -like 
rhythm. 

Reports  upon  provisions  were  made  daily, — 
the  amount  of  wine  remaining ;  of  tafia,  a  sort 
of  brandy  from  sugar-cane  ;  of  farina,  which  in- 
cludes many  cereals  ;  and  "  divers."  Certain  fig- 
ures, one  day  standing  eighty-four,  meant  that  so 
many  meals  (two  each  day)  with  wine  remained  ; 
forty-two  (one  each  day)  with  brandy,  twenty-two 
of  cereals,  thirty-five  of  biscuit  and  thirty-four 
of  miscellaneous  articles.  So  it  was  quite  plain 
even  to  the  uninitiated  that  supplies  must  be  laid 
in  at  Yokohama,  if  amounts  for  three  months, 
the  Commandant's  rule,  be  carried. 

Illness  of  any  one  on  board  is  at  once  an- 
nounced, —  an  officer  having  injured  his  knee 
was  reported,  while  I  sat  there,  two  "petits" 
officers  and  six  men  being  already  ill,  —  nine  in 
all.  More  interesting  was  the  report  of  culprits 
which  the  Captain  amiably  allowed  me  to  read. 
Three  men  were  undergoing  punishment,  the 

first  " Num6ro,  SIB,  Nom,  S ;  nature  de  la 

punition,  B.  justice  138;  nombre  de  jours,  5 ;  fin 


340  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

de  la  punition,  22  Aout ;  motifs,  Reclamation  mal 
fondee  et  occasionner  du  desordre  dans  la  bat- 
terie."  Another  is  punished  during  five  days, 
because  of  striking  "  brutalement  un  deses  cama- 
rades  sans  motif;"  and  a  third  for  "negligence 
dans  son  travail  et  reponse  inconvenante,"  dur- 
ing four  days. 

Each  watch  has  a  lieutenant  in  charge,  accom- 
panied by  a  midshipman  (aspirant}. 

Elaborate  tables  of  exercises  are  made  for 
every  hour  of  the  morning  and  evening,  and  each 
day  of  the  week,  for  instance  :  "  Exercise  general 
de  manoeuvre,"  or  "Exercise  general  ou  ordinaire 
du  canon  en  alternant  successivement "  —  these 
being  from  9.30  to  10.30  on  the  mornings  (jeudi 
et  vendredi). 

It  was  curiously  interesting  to  look  over  these 
tables,  and  read  that  lundi  the  sailors  get  out 
their  clean  duck,  look  it  over  and  mend  it;  mardi 
brings  inspection  by  the  captain  of  "materiel," 
in  other  words  of  guns,  muskets,  metal  columns, 
brass,  and  for  assurance,  no  less,  that  each  man 
in  charge  of  its  condition  is  at  his  appointed 
post ;  if  everything  is  satisfactory  he  has  an  extra 
ration  of  wine,  —  if  not,  his  allowance  is  reduced 
one  ration.  Mercredi,  boiler  inspection,  and  that 
of  knives  and  forks  and  other  utensils  of  sailors' 
tables.  Eight  men  at  each  table  have  every 
week  one  of  their  number  appointed  to  see  that 


A   "HAIRY   AINU' 


VOYAGE   ON  A   FRENCH  CRUISER  341 

all  things  shine  duly ;  he  too  is  rewarded  or  pun- 
ished according  to  their  condition. 

Jeudi,  one  sort  of  inspection  goes  on  ;  ven- 
dredi  another,  and  samedi  sees  general  cleaning 
and  brass  polishing  for  a  shining  dimanche. 

The  first  Sunday  in  the  month  the  Command- 
ant tests  the  men  with  regard  to  arms  and  place 
in  battle  ;  the  second,  one  hundred  and  ten  men 
with  muskets  are  landed ;  the  third,  inspection  as 
to  their  condition  of  four  different  companies, 
one  hundred  men  in  each ;  and  on  the  fourth  the 
same,  with  sailors  manning  boats  to  show  their 
skill  in  rowing  and  general  alacrity. 

Our  own  war  with  Spain  has  made  the  public 
more  or  less  familiar  with  routine  on  men-of-war, 
through  numerous  newspaper  articles;  and  we 
know,  too,  the  latent  force  and  splendid  energy 
of  officers,  ready  to  spring  forth  at  a  moment's 
notice  in  mastery  of  every  situation,  perilous  or 
desperate  ;  but  life  to  the  commander  of  a  war 
vessel  is  certainly  no  sinecure,  even  in  times  of 
peace,  as  shown  even  in  the  small  bits  of  routine 
kindly  told  and  shown  me  by  our  host,  the  de- 
lightfully courteous  Commandant. 

Indeed,  if  perfect  system  makes  his  own  part  • 
seem  full  of  grace  and  ease  and  luxury,  he  holds 
no  less  every  movement  of  the  huge  cruiser  and 
its  occupants  in  his  hand  for  every  moment  of 
every  day.     Yet  his  life  seemed,  in  those  peace- 


342  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

f ul  waters,  as  ideal  as  that  of  his  guests,  —  beau- 
tiful quarters,  perfect  service,  an  elaborate  menu, 
an  autocrat  unquestioned.  And  better  than  all, 
the  gentle  heart,  exquisite  courtesy,  and  aesthetic 
taste  which  make  all  life  worth  while. 


CHAPTER   XXXII 


O'er  the  deep  I  — o'er  the  deep! 

Where  the  whale  and  the  shark  and  the  swordfish  sleep,  — 

Outflying  the  blast  and  the  driving  rain,  — 

BARRY  CORNWALL. 

GRADUALLY  the  Coronet  party  again  assem- 
bled on  their  beautiful  home.  We  were  the  first 
returned  wanderers  —  soon  followed  by  the  Cap- 
tain, Mrs.  Captain,  and  others  of  the  "unsci- 
entific contingent,"  disappointed  to  have  found 
the  time  too  short  for  reaching  Esashi  before 
the  ninth  of  August,  but  partly  consoled  by  the 
beauties  of  Miyanoshita  and  Nikko ;  last  of  all, 
the  expedition  members,  unexpectedly  detained 
at  Esashi  several  days,  as  the  special  steamer 
had  been  caught  in  fog  on  its  way  northward. 

Much  hospitality  on  board  was  resumed  imme- 
diately, —  tiffins  and  dinners  to  the  Astronomer 
Royal  of  England,  Professor  Turner,  and  Captain 
Hills,  Professor  Deslandres,  Captain  Boutet,  and 
others;  while  dinners  on  shore  to  and  by  the 
various  astronomers,  interspersed  by  dancing  and 
dining  on  the  men-of-war,  followed  in  quick  suc- 
cession. 


344  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

Professor  Turner  as  extempore  poet  shone  in  a 
new  light.  A  guest  book  having  been  presented 
for  his  signature,  he  retired  to  a  quiet  spot  on 
the  Coronet's  deck  and  soon  produced  the  follow- 
ing impromptu  lines  :  — 

Astronomers  we, 

One,  two,  and  three, 

(ff/ii,  ni,  san,) 

Came  to  Japan, 

Came  for  eclipse, 

Sailed  in  six  ships, 

Trained  in  six  trains, 

Suffered  from  rains, 

Ice,  fog,  and  dew, 

Hot  weather  too, 

Oft  dry  with  thirst, 

But  what  was  worst, 

Cloud  interfered, 

No  corona  appeared. 

Some  compensations, 

Coronet's  rations ! 

Coronet's  smokes ! 

Coronet's  folks ! 

So  the  best  of  good  wishes, 

And  now  home,  o'er  the  fishes. 

The  "edibles,  bibables,  and  fumibles"  of  that 
fair  craft,  deservedly  celebrated,  are  not  always 
so  immortalized. 

Another  interesting  entertainment  was  given 
us  by  a  Japanese  friend  at  the  Maple  Club ;  and 
the  famous  drive  to  Mississippi  Bay  was  taken, 
where  the  rice  fields,  now  in  a  state  of  lovely 


HOMEWARD  BOUND  345 

ripeness,  showed  full  and  graceful  heads,  bending 
with  a  nation's  nourishment.  Some  one  an- 
nounced in  passing,  that  very  poor  Japanese  par- 
ents sometimes  give  their  children  partly  cooked 
rice,  that  by  its  subsequent  swelling  their  grow- 
ing appetites  may,  for  a  time,  be  kept  at  bay ! 

Odds  and  ends  of  pleasant  sight -seeing  or 
business  were  finished ;  and  suddenly  out  of  the 
intense  heat  one  cool  evening  descended,  sugges- 
tive of  approaching  autumn,  and  farewell. 

Mr.  Christie  departed  for  England  eastward 
on  the  Empress  of  China ;  Professor  Deslandres 
went  to  Nikko,  waiting  for  cooler  days  to  begin 
his  homeward  trip  by  way  of  India  and  Suez; 
L'Alger  swung  loose  from  her  buoy  promptly  to 
the  moment  of  Captain  Boutet's  intention,  steam- 
ing impressively  away  through  the  breakwater 
and  bound  for  Nagasaki,  while  farewells  waved 
from  her  bridge  and  quarterdeck  so  long  as  fig- 
ures could  be  distinguished. 

Native  papers  published  excellent  accounts  of 
the  eclipse,  one  of  them,  given  below,  having 
been  translated  by  a  guide,  —  not  the  "famous" 
Okita.  So  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  judge,  Jap- 
anese characters  give  very  definite  meaning  to 
those  who  read  them,  but  unless  translating  is 
done  by  a  scholar,  it  becomes  vague  in  the  change. 
This  guide  used  verbal  English  very  well :  — 

"The  Professor  Terao  sent  by  the  Imperial  as- 


346  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

toronomical  house  and  among  foreigners  Ameri- 
can Professor  Tod  and  party,  French  Parisian 
latitudinal  bureau's  Mr.  Drandol  and  party  have 
established  the  looking  and  surveying  places 
here.  .  .  . 

"The  all  expenses  to  perform  this  object  is  to 
be  delayed  by  rich  Mr.  James  as  the  plan  was 
made  by  private  of  individual. 

"Also  Mrs.  Tod  being  an  astoronomer,  and 
coming  together  with  Mr.  Tod  and  helped  the 
work  to  take  four  more  Americans,  herself  as  en- 
gineers. 

"Besides  the  above  party  the  photographer 
Ogawa  also  followed  taking  two  his  men. 

"The  machinaries  has  been  invented  by  the 
same  Professor  and  its  principal  object  is  for  tak- 
ing to  the  photograph  the  present  sight  of  the 
Eclipse  by  moving  the  machinary  by  the  action 
of  electricity.  During  the  time  of  eclipse  per 
every  two  minutes  1 50  pieces  as  many,  and  24  or 
36  as  little  would  be  expected  to  be  taken,  so 
that  altogether  4-500  would  have  been  supposed 
to  be  taken  in  the  last. 

"The  machinary  being  composed  to  change 
the  direction  by  the  same  advancing  rate  as  well 
as  the  earth  revolves  and  there  is  no  necessity  to 
move  the  machinary's  position  during  the  eclipse, 
so  much  so  conveniently  arranged  having  had 
good  result  on  several  trial.  .  .  . 


HOMEWARD  BOUND  347 

...  "In  the  evening  of  the  8th  the  cloud 
got  clear  up,  gradually,  and  all  astoronomer  felt 
much  easier,  but  on  the  Qth  from  the  dawn,  the 
small  rain  began  to  fall  but  sometimes  the  sun 
seemed  through  the  thin  part  of  it,  while  we 
passed  the  before  noon  with  a  glad  and  sorrow. 

"About  half  past  one  clock  the  sun  began  to 
get  waned  from  right  side  and  about  half  past 
two  it  reached  to  the  last  part  from  doing  so  and 
the  heaven  and  land  became  dark  and  showed 
quite  night  sight.  As  we  heard  before,  the  fly- 
ing birds  got  much  astonishment  and  made  a 
great  confusion  to  return  to  their  own  nests,  and 
showed  a  special  sight.  .  .  . 

"  The  plan  and  pain  with  each  surveyors  dur- 
ing the  past  a  month  being  brought  such  sadful 
result  and  nobody  can  tell  how  much  those  asto- 
ronomers  caused  the  distress  for  hopeless  end 
like  that. 

"Mrs.  Tod  came  from  far  place  to  help  her 
husband's  work,  and  during  the  time  of  so  many 
days  she  has  tried  to  do  her  best  through  day 
and  night,  but  the  weather  prevented  her  will, 
and  she  has  forgotten  herself  to  cry  out,  and  we 
ought  to  think  about  such  learned  lady's  heart." 

During  the  last  days,  frantic  desire  to  pur- 
chase final  Japanese  presents,  and  by  no  means 
to  forget  this,  that,  or  the  other  article,  or  person 
at  home,  surged  onward  like  a  tidal  wave.  But 


348  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

Yokohama  does  not  shine  in  comparison  with 
Kyoto  for  shopping,  —  with  marked  exception  in 
the  case  of  the  beautiful  vases  of  Makudsu  Kozan, 
sometimes  called  "  the  wizard  of  Ota,"  whose 
famous  kilns  are  near  the  city ;  and  perhaps 
one  or  two  other  celebrated  places  and  artists. 
Chinese  tailors  and  shirt  -  makers  were  driven 
quite  wild  by  the  sudden  influx  of  orders. 
Every  man  discovered  the  necessity  for  several 
full  suits,  and  affable  Ah  You  spent  most  of  his 
available  time  on  the  Coronet's  deck,  untying 
innumerable  purple  silk  handkerchiefs  containing 
coats  for  trying  on  ;  or  in  pinning  them  upon  the 
happy  if  perspiring  prospective  owners  below,  — 
or  in  being  paddled  back  and  forth  in  a  sam- 
pan. I  cannot  conceive  that  he  did  anything 
else  whatever  during  those  last  days.  He  was 
as  much  a  part  of  the  yacht  scenery  as  quarter- 
masters and  awning.  And  a  certain  shirt-maker, 
Yamatoya,  hardly  less.  Really,  because  people 
go  to  Japan  to  observe  an  eclipse  is  no  valid 
reason  why  they  should  not  clothe  themselves 
extensively  with  fine  Oriental  bargains.  But 

"  Shining  and  singing  and  sparkling  glides  on  the  glad  day, 
And  eastward  the  swift-rolling  planet  wheels  into  the  gray." 

A  final  reception  on  board  the  Coronet,  never 
so  fairylike  with  flags,  lanterns,  and  groves  of 
bamboo,  and  the  day  of  homeward  sailing 
dawned. 


HOMEWARD  BOUND  349 

We  aimed  to  clear  the  moorings  at  colors,  but, 
detained  by  a  number  of  calls,  it  was  nearly  nine 
o'clock  when  we  started,  Fuji  dimly  brooding, 
and  slowly  swung  off  as  our  sails  filled,  home- 
ward pennant  streaming,  down  the  lovely  bay. 
Passing  the  flagship,  which  has  since  made  such 
quick  history  for  herself,  all  her  white-clothed 
sailors  drawn  up  forward,  our  friends  on  bridge 
and  quarter  -  deck  were  waving  caps  and  ker- 
chiefs ;  salutes  rang  out,  colors  dipped,  the  band 
played  "Home,  Sweet  Home"  and  "Auld  Lang 
Syne."  And  while  distance  widened,  as  fresh- 
ening breezes  caught  added  sails,  the  familiar 
strains  of  "  Nancy  Lee  "  floated  off  to  us,  ethe- 
realized  by  distance,  this  delicate  compliment 
from  the  Olympia  being  the  last  sound  to  reach 
the  Coronet  from  Japan's  domain. 

This  voyage  would  see  no  stops  at  tropical 
islands,  no  volcanoes,  no  lawn  teas,  —  but  the 
shortest  possible  great-circle  course  through  the 
northern  Pacific  to  the  Golden  Gate,  a  lonely 
waste  which  with  most  favoring  breezes  could 
not  be  traversed  in  less  than  three  weeks,  and 
was  likely  to  take  much  longer.  A  month  abso- 
lutely without  news  of  the  world,  telegrams  and 
letters  powerless  to  cheer  or  annoy,  —  a  month 
alone  with  immensity.  What  better  chance  to 
make  acquaintance  with  that  stranger  too  seldom 
met,  —  one's  innermost  self  ? 


350  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

At  first  outer  conditions  were  quite  different 
from  anticipation,  —  light  winds,  then  a  gale, 
followed  by  calm,  with  smooth  blue  sea ;  sud- 
denly another  fierce  blow,  all  sail  lowered,  the 
yacht  "  hove  to  "  with  such  tremendous  seas  roll- 
ing that  no  amount  of  guards  were  effective 
to  keep  dishes  on  the  table  or  guests  in  their 
beds;  even  the  Captain  landed  suddenly  on  the 
floor  one  night  during  the  brief  interval  of  sleep 
he  allowed  himself.  For  on  this  homeward  voy- 
age he  took  regular  watch,  in  turn  with  sailing 
master  and  mates. 

At  the  iSoth  meridian,  picking  up  a  second 
Wednesday  and  reaching  the  same  hemisphere 
with  our  friends,  the  seas  too  seemed  changed, 
running  high  but  in  our  own  direction,  slipping 
heavily  beneath  from  the  stern,  while  fine  winds 
urged  us  forward.  Many  an  inspiring  day  fol- 
lowed, —  shaded  gray  skies  with  an  occasional 
sun-gleam,  now  and  then  a  streak  of  rich  blue 
showing  through  layers  of  soft  cloud,  —  the  sea 
gray  and  green,  black  in  its  shadows,  breaking 
white  on  every  crest,  and  hurrying  eastward  im- 
petuously, faster  than  we  could  race.  Yet  like  a 
bird  the  Coronet  flew  over  the  uneasy  wastes  of 
endless  water,  lifting  her  delicate  nose  scornfully 
above  the  rollers,  and  taking  few  seas  aboard. 
Fortunately  there  was  little  fog  ;  but  there  were 
gorgeous  sunsets,  and  one  sunrise  was  a  rose- 


HOMEWARD  BOUND  351 

pink  pile  of  cirrus,  deepening  to  ruby.  Flying 
meteors  at  night ;  showers  chasing  each  other 
blackly  around  the  horizon  ;  a  great,  impressively 
moving  waterspout ;  porpoises  leaping,  and  our 
old  friends  the  goonies  following  as  usual,  flying 
six  thousand  miles  and  knowing  not  fatigue ; 
sometimes  a  white  shag,  and  a  beautiful  white 
bird  like  a  pigeon,  its  little  scarlet  feet  tucked  up 
beneath,  seeming  inclined  to  alight,  but  thinking 
better  of  it ;  whales  blowing,  even  lifting  their 
huge  bulk  high  above  the  water  —  with  these 
diversions  the  days  rushed  on. 

Another  of  Big  Jim's  stories  was  recalled  by 
the  whales,  —  he  was  no  longer  on  board,  hav- 
ing been  left  behind  at  Yokohama  from  circum- 
stances over  which  he  had  not  full  control,  so 
that  he  existed  for  us  but  as  a  memory.  His 
tale  was  to  the  effect  that  he  once  harpooned 
a  whale,  which  immediately  set  out  on  a  mad 
journey,  dragging  the  boat  after  him.  "Why," 
said  Jim,  "  he  pulled  us  so  fast  though  the  water 
that  as  you  looked  astern  we  had  left  a  clear  tun- 
nel through  the  waves  a  mile  or  more  back." 

A  weary  little  land  bird  like  a  song  sparrow 
fluttered  to  the  deck  one  day,  —  presumably  from 
the  nearest  shore,  there  the  Aleutian  Islands, 
more  than  three  hundred  miles  northward.  But 
fatigue,  hunger,  chill,  thirst,  or  fright  proved  too 
much  for  his  delicate  life.  Resting  on  the  waves, 


352  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

another  land  bird  was  passed,  which  only  looked 
at  us  with  bright  inquisitive  eyes  as  we  sped  past 
at  ten  knots.  A  squid  once  came  aboard  under 
protest.  Indignant  at  his  sudden  stranding,  he 
proceeded  to  cover  the  deck  with  particularly 
black  ink. 

One  morning  the  whole  sea  was  alive  with 
exquisite  spots  of  radiant  blue  fire,  both  on  the 
surface  and  far  down  into  the  water.  For  two 
days  this  remarkable  sight  continued,  though  no 
one  was  able  to  identify  the  startling  little  crea- 
tures so  royally  arrayed.  They  were  evidently 
crustaceans,  their  color  thrilling,  iridescent,  phos- 
phorescent, flame-like. 

Bottles,  tightly  corked,  containing  each  a 
record  of  date  and  exact  latitude  and  longitude, 
were  thrown  overboard  on  alternate  days,  that 
by  their  drift  and  possible  subsequent  landing 
additional  data  might  be  secured  for  the  Hydro- 
graphic  Office  regarding  the  direction  and  ve- 
locity of  ocean  currents. 

Sealskin  coats  and  sea-rugs  were  much  in  evi- 
dence on  this  northern  voyage,  with  brisk  walks, 
and  afternoon  tea  by  the  open  fire  ;  while,  dinner 
over,  Beethoven  and  Bach  and  Chopin  filled  the 
evening  hour. 

Shanties,  too,  continued,  several  new  ones  tak- 
ing their  places  in  the  yacht's  forecastle  reper- 
toire, among  them  — 


HOMEWARD  BOUND  353 

"ROLL   THE  COTTON   DOWN" 

From  Yokohama  we  're  homeward  bound, 

Roll  the  cotton  down, 
From  Yokohama  we  're  homeward  bound, 

Roll  the  cotton  down. 

2  And  soon  we  '11  be  in  'Frisco  town, 

3  And  as  we  leave  Yokohama  behind 

4  We  '11  try  to  make  the  fastest  time 

5  And  beat  the  record  as  home  we  go ; 

6  It  takes  a  Yankee  yacht  to  do  so. 

7  So  pull,  my  boys,  from  down  below, 

8  For  up  aloft  the  sail  must  go. 

9  I  thought  I  heard  the  chief  mate  say 
10  Another  pull  and  then  belay. 

Toward  the  end  of  September,  when  superb 
weather  came  on,  with  sparkling  blue,  foam- 
capped  sea,  high  cirrus  cloud  and  northwest 
winds,  the  Coronet  fairly  leaped  over  the  waves. 

Showers  still  haunted  the  horizon,  and  one 
evening  as  the  moon  emerged  from  cloud,  a  per- 
fect lunar  rainbow  brightened  gradually  until 
even  the  secondary  bow  came  forth  in  shadowy 
color,  —  an  exquisite  sight,  elusive,  fairy-like. 

East  winds,  cloud,  and  high  seas  took  their 
turn  before  the  coast  was  sighted,  with  reefed 
sails  and  tons  of  water  sweeping  the  deck.  In 
the  night  a  blow  might  strike  the  vessel's  bow 
until  she  trembled,  —  then  the  swish  and  rush 
of  chasing  water  along  the  scuppers,  like  a  huge 


354  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

but  temporary  mill-race.  In  spite  of  reefed  sails 
we  surged  onward,  gleaming  foam  thrown  off 
from  every  side,  the  great,  gray,  mysterious  sea 
heaving  and  trembling  in  dim  obscurity  in  all 
directions. 

During  one  of  the  last  days  came  the  sole  cry 
of  "  Sail  ho  !  "  on  the  entire  voyage,  and  a  bark 
was  seen  hastening  off  in  rain  and  mist  on  un- 
known errands. 

Late  in  the  evening  of  October  ist  a  faint 
whistle  sounded  through  the  fog ;  and  soon  after 
midnight,  the  weather  clearing  unexpectedly, 
we  were  called  on  deck  for  a  moving  spectacle. 
All  the  stars  were  out  and  a  waning  crescent 
moon;  and  just  ahead,  the  intense  brilliance  of 
the  Farallones  light,  our  bow  pointed  directly 
for  its  radiance. 

No  longer  could  the  faithful  owner  and  Cap- 
tain of  the  Coronet  be  gayly  termed  a  summer 
yachtsman ;  he  had  fairly  earned  his  title  of 
skilled  and  experienced  deep-sea  navigator,  if 
only  from  this  splendid  course  through  trackless 
waters  of  the  northern  Pacific.  The  two  courses 
from  San  Francisco  to  Yokohama  and  back,  as 
shown  on  the  chart  reproduction,  make  a  pretty 
smooth  navigation  curve,  counting  ten  thousand 
eight  hundred  and  seventy  miles,  —  the  home- 
ward voyage  being  within  fifty  miles  of  the 
shortest  possible  course. 


100  East  ISO 


1UO  Longitude      140        "\Ve=t    from        1 


HOMEWARD  BOUND  355 

Heartfelt  congratulations  from  every  one  on 
board  to  the  trusty  navigator,  who  bore  his 
honors  so  modestly,  —  while  coffee  and  sand- 
wiches by  the  blazing  fire  at  I  A.  M.  celebrated 
this  triumphant  land-fall. 

Before  noon  the  cabin  was  buried  deep  in  long- 
stemmed  crimson  and  yellow  roses,  fragrant 
violets,  carnations,  maidenhair  ferns  —  the  vases 
were  too  few  to  hold  them  ;  we  lunched  and 
dined  in  a  bower.  Friends  poured  in,  reporters 
poured  in,  invitations  poured  in.  The  curiously 
brilliant  colors  upon  hats,  the  peculiar  sleeves, 
all  so  different  from  things  prevailing  six  months 
before,  were  oddly  interesting.  Hills,  vividly 
green  in  April,  now  showed  sober  brown.  Sun- 
shine was  continual.  The  great  cliffs  of  the 
Golden  Gate  were  more  superb  than  we  remem- 
bered them,  the  miles  of  pathless  white  sand- 
dunes  as  mysteriously,  weirdly  attractive  as  be- 
fore. 

But  alas,  and  alas  !  good-bys  to  the  Coronet 
were  creeping  nearer  and  nearer.  What  though 
the  luxurious  private  car  Buenaventura  awaited 
us  —  farewells  to  Captain  Crosby,  faithful  An- 
drew, and  the  sailors,  three  dips  and  a  salute  as 
we  left  her  side  extinguished  all  emotions  other 
than  unmitigated  homesickness,  and  genuine  re- 
gret (on  the  part  of  one  or  two)  that  we  might 
not  go  with  her  round  the  Horn. 


356 


CORONA   AND   CORONET 


Halfway  across  to  Oakland  a  last  sight  of  her 
gleaming  sides  was  caught  between  two  islands. 
The  ensign  and  both  signals  dipped  again,  three 
times  ;  her  owner  and  his  guests  stood  with  un- 
covered heads  as  the  little  brass  cannon  spoke  a 
last  good-by  ;  and  then  a  certain  mistiness,  not 
wholly  of  the  sea,  enshrouded  her,  the  white 
sides  grew  bluish  in  morning  haze,  the  big  ferry- 
boat ploughed  on,  and  the  Japan  cruise  of  the 
Coronet  was  a  thing  of  the  past. 

"  Love,  good-night,  must  thou  go  ? 
When  the  day  and  the  night  need  thee  so  ! 
All  is  well;  speedeth  all  to  his  rest." 

"  TAPS." 
[Extinguish  lights.] 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 

BACK   TO   AN   ARIZONA    COPPER   MINE 

Such  is  the  patriot's  boast,  where'er  we  roam, 

His  first,  best  country  ever  is  at  home. 

GOLDSMITH. 

"  BISBEE  washed  away  by  a  cloud-burst." 
This  cheerful  headline,  in  letters  much  taller 
than  necessary,  on  the  first  page  of  the  San 
Francisco  papers,  had  greeted  our  arrival  from 
the  Orient.  Such  was  the  reward  of  our  search 
through  the  daily  press  to  discover  who  were  the 
actual  nominees  for  President,  and  how  the  coun- 
try at  large  regarded  its  two  choices.  Since  at 
Bisbee,  Arizona,  is  located  a  famous  copper-mine 
with  costly  machinery,  in  which  our  host,  the 
Coronet's  captain,  had  far  more  than  a  general 
interest,  and  since  the  town  is  merely  an  out- 
come of  the  mine,  its  houses  owned  by  the  com- 
pany, its  inhabitants  the  underground  workers 
with  their  superintendent,  doctor,  clergyman, 
and  librarian,  the  washing  away  of  his  whole 
community  was  not  only  rather  startling,  but 
very  moving  to  the  Captain's  emotions. 

For  a  day  or  two  telegrams  had  failed  to  get 
through,  but  at  last  the  welcome  message  arrived 


358  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

from  the  superintendent,  "  Bisbee  safe — no  one 
killed."  And  when,  as  soon  as  possible  after 
necessary  business  was  finished  in  San  Francisco, 
we  found  ourselves  ensconced  in  the  Buenaven- 
tura, and  rolling  over  the  arid  deserts  of  southern 
California,  the  probable  condition  of  the  "works" 
was  in  the  minds  of  the  company  almost  as  much 
as  in  that  of  the  Captain. 

In  the  Yuma  desert  a  bush  is  not  an  incident 
merely,  but  an  epoch.  Miles  of  sand  and  reddish 
soil  stretch  away  to  barren  mountains  whose 
rough  outline  and  scarred  sides  were  made  beau- 
tiful and  ethereal  by  exquisite  shadows  and  lights 
under  a  pale-blue  quivering  atmosphere.  The 
thermometer  stood  at  100°  F.  in  the  car, — a 
rather  lower  point  than  usual  in  this  region  ;  but 
the  air  was  so  dry  that  it  was  by  no  means 
unbearable.  Dust,  however,  sifted  in  through 
double  windows,  and  powdered  the  little  parlor. 

A  tempting  mirage  often  appeared,  —  tantaliz- 
ingly  perfect  presentments  of  ponds  reflecting 
the  hills,  even  hummocks  of  grass  and  rough 
rocks  along  the  shore.  Several  times  we  should 
have  been  sure  actual  water  lay  at  hand,  except 
that  it  rose  and  flooded  the  country  around  some 
little  station  perhaps  just  passed,  whose  actual 
pitiful  dryness  had  been,  five  minutes  before,  a 
sad  contrast  to  the  falsely  rippled  surface  of  that 
surrounding  lake,  now  lapping  gently  its  wood 


BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA    COPPER  MINE      359 

platform.  Perhaps  it  was  some  similar  appear- 
ance which  caused  the  godfathers  of  the  region 
to  name  the  stations  with  cruel  inappropriateness 
Sweet  Water,  Bubbling  Spring,  Running  Brook, 
and  the  like,  —  pathetic  sarcasm.  So  far  as  con- 
cerns fertility  or  moisture  the  whole  scene  might 
well  have  been  a  landscape  in  the  moon. 

But  I  trust  there  are  no  tramps  in  that  deso- 
lately celestial  region.  The  whole  country  in  this 
earthly  counterpart  became  more  and  more  in- 
fested with  that  undesirable  parasite.  A  gypsy 
camp,  passed  toward  nightfall  with  flickering  fire 
and  picturesque  figures  about  it,  was  decorative  ; 
but  tramps  cannot,  by  any  possible  stretch  of 
imagination,  be  ranked  in  that  category.  They 
clung  to  the  trucks  beneath,  stealing  rides  of  a 
few  miles  at  imminent  risk  to  life  and  limb ;  they 
climbed  to  the  roof  of  the  Buenaventura,  and 
were  continually  dislodged,  even  from  our  own 
observation  platform.  At  every  station  beggars 
whined  for  food  or  money,  the  climax  being 
reached  at  Yuma,  on  the  banks  of  the  turbid 
Colorado,  where  Indians,  Mexicans,  strange  dia- 
lects, and  mosquitoes  swarmed  in  the  hot  even- 
ing air. 

Leaving  the  Southern  Pacific  the  following 
day,  the  Buenaventura  was  attached  to  a  special 
engine  for  fifty  or  sixty  miles'  run  (on  the  Ari- 
zona and  South  Eastern,  a  railroad  belonging  to 


360  CORONA  AND   CORONET 

the  mining  company)  across  a  curious  country,  to 
Bisbee  in  the  extreme  southeast  corner  of  the 
territory.  The  landscape,  only  less  bare  than 
the  desert,  showed  yucca  and  century  plants, 
varieties  of  flowering  bushes  here  and  there,  and 
brilliant  blossoms  among  the  sparse  grass,  —  the 
mesa  covered  with  cattle,  and  bounded  by  superb 
purple  mountains  on  every  side. 

Riding  on  the  engine  was  attractive,  but  upon 
the  cow-catcher  even  more  so,  —  a  species  of  lux- 
ury seldom  allowed  on  through  lines.  Here,  com- 
fortably established  on  cushions,  our  feet  resting 
upon  the  timbers  joining  in  a  point  below  for 
convincing  argument  with  obstacles  upon  the 
track,  the  whole  wide  scene  was  most  advanta- 
geously viewed. 

But  the  track  seemed  to  be,  of  all  the  windy 
mesa,  the  favorite  reclining  ground  of  herds,  and 
too  much  slowing  down  out  of  regard  for  our 
safety  became  necessary,  as  the  cattle  calmly 
persisted  in  remaining  until  the  engine  was  act- 
ually upon  them  ;  so  after  a  few  miles  we  reluc- 
tantly abandoned  our  seat  on  the  pilot.  Then 
with  all  lawful  notice  in  shrill  whistling,  cows  had 
to  take  their  chances.  Bleaching  skeletons  be- 
side the  track  attested  an  occasional  insensibility 
to  warning ;  and  a  ruined  town  raised  despairing 
chimneys  to  the  silent  sky,  its  adobe  walls  roof- 
less and  crumbling,  still  known  as  Charleston. 


BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA    COPPER  MINE      361 

Barren  and  more  barren  grew  the  country,  — 
the  soil  more  brilliantly  red ;  then  the  track  en- 
tered a  narrow  canon,  constantly  more  contracted 
as  high  mountains  crept  closer  together.  Whiffs 
of  smoke  appeared,  tiny  adobe  houses  straggled 
up  steep  red  hillsides,  themselves  scarcely  differ- 
ent in  color ;  then  tall  chimneys  and  pipes  spout- 
ing greenish  vapor  became  frequent,  and  the  car 
stopped.  Tiers  of  houses  clung  to  canon  walls, 
winding  pathways  connecting  them  wherever 
foothold  could  be  seized,  each  as  rough  as  the 
washed  bed  of  a  rapid  torrent ;  across  an  innocent 
looking  stream  at  bottom  of  the  gorge  a  bridge 
leading  to  the  intact  and  uninjured  works  ;  an 
enormous  smoke-conductor  eight  feet  in  diameter 
and  seven  hundred  feet  long,  lying  at  a  steep 
angle  up  the  mountain  and  pouring  its  incessant 
volume  of  sulphur  smoke  off,  far  above  the  little 
town,  —  this  was  Bisbee.  No  growing  thing,  not 
even  the  hardy  cottonwoods,  can  live  in  the  sul- 
phur-laden air,  even  with  the  worst  of  it  now  car- 
ried off  by  the  great  flue. 

This  increase  in  sulphur,  though  greatly  re- 
lieved, brought  death  to  the  few  shrubs  of  Bis- 
bee, and  the  air  cannot,  even  now,  especially  in 
certain  directions  of  the  wind,  be  called  favorable 
to  agriculture. 

As  the  Buenaventura  lay  comfortably  side- 
tracked in  the  unique  village,  Mexican  women, 


362  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

picturesque  in  black  rebosa,  their  beautiful  dark 
eyes  looking  at  us  curiously  from  swarthy  faces, 
flitted  by,  and  uncounted  nationalities  among  the 
miners  passed  and  repassed.  We  found  later 
that  twenty-two  nations  were  represented  (nearly 
everything  but  Mongolian),  among  them  Eng- 
lish, Spanish,  Indian,  South  American,  Welsh, 
Cornish,  Irish,  African,  Norwegian,  Swedish, 
Russian,  Italian,  Polish,  Portuguese — and  that 
fifteen  languages  were  spoken. 

Over  seven  hundred  men  are  on  the  pay-roll, 
making,  with  their  families,  a  population  of  about 
three  thousand,  all  of  whom  are  personally 
known  to  the  management,  which  exercises  so 
much  kindly  authority  that  Bisbee  is  an  ideal 
mining  community.  Lawlessness  is  checked  at 
once.  A  large  store  supplies  at  reasonable  prices 
all  needs,  from  white  silk  parasols  and  sets  of 
silver-plated  ware  —  both  greatly  in  demand  — 
to  Navajo  blankets,  Mexican  saddle-bags,  and 
steeple-crowned  hats.  Two  physicians,  employed 
by  the  company,  look  after  the  general  health  ;  a 
devoted  Welsh  clergyman  nourishes  their  souls  ; 
a  fine  library  and  reading-room  are  skillfully  ad- 
ministered by  a  graduate  of  Pratt  Institute  ;  and 
the  manager  with  his  family  are  the  good  angels 
of  the  region. 

It  is  a  unique  spot,  the  works  with  their  pipes 
and  purring  steam  and  smoke,  coke  heaps  and 


BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA    COPPER  MINE      363 

slag  piles  the  most  pervasive  element  of  the  nar- 
row canon,  while  hundreds  of  feet  above,  on  all 
sides,  rise  steep  mountains,  red,  barren,  mighty. 

The  trickling  stream  can  without  a  moment's 
warning  become  a  devastating  torrent.  Just  be- 
fore the  Coronet  landed,  that  cloud-burst  in  the 
mountains  above,  of  which  the  papers  told,  had 
raced  down  the  valley  and  Bisbee  was  nearly  en- 
gulfed. Water  rushed  into  the  Copper  Queen 
mine,  over  the  floor  of  the  works,  and  only 
stopped  short  of  serious  damage.  No  lives  were 
lost,  as  the  manager  had  telegraphed,  but  in  a 
town  farther  on  six  or  seven  persons  were  killed. 
Hailstones  broke  half  the  Bisbee  windows,  even 
denting  and  riddling  iron  roofs. 

Of  the  sudden,  overwhelming  power  of  cloud- 
bursts we  were  destined  to  see  a  thrilling  exam- 
ple before  the  few  days'  visit  was  over. 

At  first  sight  one  would  say,  "  Machinery,  arid 
precipices,  sulphur  fumes,  no  vegetation  —  ter- 
rible ! "  But  a  fascination  not  to  be  explained 
grows  upon  the  stranger,  partly  understood  as 
day  after  day  passes  in  the  little  town,  —  fourth 
in  importance  and  size  in  Arizona,  a  territory  as 
large  as  New  York  and  New  England  together. 

The  manager's  pretty  house  stands  at  the  top 
of  three  or  four  stone  terraces,  upon  which  by 
constant  care  a  thick  mat  of  Bermuda  grass  was 
green  ;  oleanders  were  still  living,  and  a  vine  or 


364  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

two  over  the  piazza.,  while  century  plants  and 
yucca,  quite  in  their  native  habitat,  gave  an  at- 
tractive air  to  the  pleasant  home  where  so  much 
kindly  hospitality  kept  open  house. 

Everybody  was  anxious  to  see  the  great  mine  ; 
and  in  the  afternoon  the  men  of  our  "  party  of 
notables,"  as  the  Bisbee  paper  put  it,  charm- 
ingly arrayed  in  blue  overalls  from  the  store,  the 
ladies  in  brown  linen,  boarded  the  elevator,  and 
dropped  into  four  hundred  and  twenty  feet  of 
darkness.  Passing  each  level,  an  electric  light 
gleamed  for  a  moment.  Once  at  the  bottom, 
each  guest  with  a  candle  investigated  in  Indian 
file  the  long  corridors  cut  in  the  rock,  through 
which  little  tracks  are  laid  for  cars  to  take  out 
the  ore.  On  both  sides  were  rivulets  of  water 
from  the  late  flood,  and  the  procession  proceeded 
cautiously,  tiny  candles  flickering  hither  and 
thither  in  the  turnings,  as  we  followed  our 
guides,  the  glimmer  of  whose  lights,  far  ahead, 
showed  the  way.  Stepping  aside  for  filled  cars 
to  pass,  while  slowly  trickling  drops  from  above 
tinkled  into  pools  below,  soft  white  fungus  cling- 
ing here  and  there  to  the  walls,  we  kept  on,  see- 
ing occasionally  a  rare  bit  of  lovely  light  blue 
crystal,  from  drippings  rich  in  ore. 

When  the  Copper  Queen  was  first  opened  the 
ore  was  very  beautiful,  abounding  in  crystals  of 
sapphire  blue  called  azurite,  in  delicate  green, 


BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA    COPPER  MINE     365 

and  malachite.  Very  rich,  too,  it  proved,  con- 
taining between  twenty-five  and  sixty  per  cent, 
pure  copper.  But  as  mining  went  on,  this  partic- 
ular variety  grew  more  scarce,  as  well  as  bits  of 
native  copper. 

But  with  the  more  prosaic  material  now  mined 
the  Copper  Queen  is  still  very  rich,  and  not  less 
than  thirty  tons  of  pure  copper  are  shipped  daily. 
In  the  ore  are  found  not  only  sulphur,  but  traces 
of  gold  and  silver,  silica,  lead,  iron,  zinc,  anti- 
mony, arsenic,  and  other  materials,  all  of  which 
are  blown  off,  or  sent  off,  or  turned  into  slag, 
except  the  bits  of  gold  and  silver.  Never  less 
than  eight  tons  of  pure  copper  average  from  one 
hundred  tons  of  rough  ore,  while  the  early  blue 
averaged  forty,  —  another  rich  variety  being  jet 
black. 

Walking  across  a  plank  over  an  apparently 
bottomless  pit,  and  reaching  a  chamber  too  low 
to  stand  upright,  candles  held  close  revealed  a 
fairy  grotto.  The  roof  and  sides  were  of  softest 
green  moss  like  velvet,  so  delicate  that  a  finger- 
touch  brushed  it  away  —  and  every  leaflet  of  rich 
copper.  Another  cave,  but  vast  and  mysterious, 
was  explored.  Lofty  and  full  of  superb  stalac- 
tites like  alabaster,  small  apartments  at  the  sides 
glitteringly  splendid  in  the  moving  lights  —  this 
magnificent  cavern,  calm  in  the  undisturbed  re- 
pose of  centuries,  lay  in  the  mountain's  heart  un- 


366  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

known,  until  a  sudden  blast  accidentally  opened 
an  entrance  to  its  gloomy  wealth. 

Impressive  as  were  all  the  underground  rooms 
and  passages,  and  the  ceaseless  energy  of  labor 
above  and  below,  the  works  at  night  were  in- 
comparably more  so. 

After  "  roasting  "  in  a  sort  of  rotary  machine, 
the  rough  ore  is  dumped  into  four  great  furnaces 
together  with  a  lot  of  coke  (in  the  largest  fur- 
nace two  hundred  and  thirty  tons  of  ore  go  in 
with  fourteen  of  coke),  where  it  is  burned  until 
"  done,"  becoming  liquid  enough  to  run  off.  It 
is  then  two  materials,  —  matte,  containing  copper, 
and  useless  slag.  The  latter,  being  lighter,  rises, 
and  is  led  out  of  the  furnace  at  a  higher  level 
than  the  matte,  which  pours  out  its  red-hot 
stream  below.  At  this  stage  the  matte  is  about 
fifty  per  cent,  copper,  thirty-five  per  cent,  sul- 
phur, and  fifteen  per  cent.  iron. 

The  matte  left  to  cool  is  later  put  through  a 
second  furnace,  from  which  it  pours  in  streams  of 
red-hot  liquid  flame  into  the  two  great  Bessemer 
furnaces.  In  other  words  it  is  "  Bessemerized  " 
for  about  forty-five  minutes,  air  being  forced 
through  it  by  a  pressure  of  sixteen  to  twenty 
pounds  to  the  inch.  The  sound  is  like  a  hun- 
dred engines  together,  and  the  flame,  as  it  shoots 
up  and  out  into  the  hood  for  carrying  off  fumes, 
is  all  shades  of  blue  and  violet  and  shining  yel- 


BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA    COPPER  MINE      367 

low,  the  swarthy  figures  in  attendance  knowing 
instantly  by  the  color  when  all  sulphur  has  gone. 
The  enormous,  seething  caldron  is  finally  tipped 
over,  now  a  white-hot,  indescribably  glowing 
mass,  the  "  cream  "  (slag)  runs  off  the  top,  —  a 
stream  once  more  of  liquid  fire,  pours  itself  into 
great  vats  on  wheels,  and  is  rolled  away.  When 
all  the  slag,  chiefly  iron,  is  poured  off,  oblong 
pots  on  wheels  come  in  on  the  same  track,  re- 
ceive the  copper  stream,  now  ninety-nine  and 
three  tenths  per  cent,  pure,  tumbling  down  in  a 
cascade  of  glory,  and  roll  off,  —  each  bar,  when 
cooled,  weighing  three  hundred  pounds,  each 
heat  usually  yielding  thirteen  bars. 

Men  at  work  in  the  glare  stick  iron  spikes 
continually  through  holes  in  the  back  of  the 
converter,  that  passages  for  air-blasts  may  not 
become  clogged,  and  when  the  red-hot  or  white- 
hot  streams  light  up  their  faces,  while  showers  of 
sparks  fly  off  in  wide-spreading  masses,  the  effect 
is  superbly  weird. 

The  great  Bessemers  are  lined  with  a  sort  of 
clay,  which  is  constantly  watched,  lest  it  burn 
too  thin,  —  too  near  the  iron.  When  this  hap- 
pens it  is  wheeled  away  for  the  lining  to  be 
burned  out.  Six  are  always  in  use — two  full 
of  the  copper,  and  four  being  burned  out  with 
radiantly  lovely  colors. 

But  something  more,  no  less  magnificent,  was 


368  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

yet  to  be  seen.  The  slag,  in  its  great  iron  pots 
on  wheels,  is  run  upon  a  small  open  train  out- 
side, men  standing  about  amid  the  pots  of  red- 
hot  slag,  as  spectacular  as  a  scene  in  a  theatre,  and 
an  engine,  the  "  Little  Queen,"  hastens  off  with 
it  upon  a  tiny  track  to  the  slag-heap,  a  quarter- 
mile  away.  The  molten  material  may  have 
cooled  a  bit  on  the  surface  during  its  journey, 
flecks  of  dark  crust  dotting  the  red,  but  as  each 
pot  is  dumped  over  the  edge,  to  the  valley  one 
hundred  feet  below,  it  strikes  the  brink  of  the 
precipice  and  breaks  or  flows  apart  into  a  thou- 
sand semi-liquid  fragments,  which  unite  again  in 
a  glowing  mass  of  incandescence,  a  rushing  cas- 
cade of  fire.  The  whole  scene  about  these  works 
at  night  is  quite  beyond  adequate  description. 

Horseback  rides  by  day  over  the  barren  moun- 
tains are  as  distinctive  in  their  way.  The  ani- 
mals are  so  trained  to  peculiarities  of  the  region 
that  they  dash  along  at  full  canter  up  the  dry 
beds  of  streams,  along  trails  where  a  man  could 
scarcely  find  footing,  or  straight  up  open  hill- 
sides to  gain  a  short  cut,  leaving  the  washed-out 
roads  to  their  own  devices. 

Bisbee  itself  is  five  thousand  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea,  and  Juniper  Flat,  where  a  mem- 
orable horseback  ride  was  taken,  leads  one  up  and 
ever  up,  seven  thousand  five  hundred  feet  in 
elevation.  Away  from  the  works  and  their  sul- 


BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA    COPPER  MINE      369 

phur  the  air  is  extraordinarily  clear  and  invig- 
orating, the  views  extremely  grand,  over  piled- 
up  masses  of  red  mountain  peaks,  with  chasing 
lights  and  shadows  and  ineffable  blue  haze.  At 
the  divide  the  road  descends  toward  Tombstone, 
and  the  view  down  the  canon  was  peculiarly 
beautiful,  —  even  without  vegetation  of  any  sort 
except  an  occasional  cactus,  or  the  "mahogany 
of  Arizona  "  (manzanita),  an  infrequent  juniper 
or  cypress,  and  ubiquitous  yucca. 

A  solitary  Indian  on  a  mule,  above  us,  was 
picking  his  way  still  upward.  We  seemed  already 
perched  upon  the  very  backbone  of  the  world, 
but  a  still  wider  range  opened  a  few  feet  beyond, 
—  far  into  the  sunny  Sulphur  Springs  Valley, 
with  a  bit  of  the  blue  San  Jose  Mountains  of 
Mexico  peeping  over,  and  the  Cananeas  in  the 
distance.  Lookout  Mountain,  where  scouts  or 
sentinels  used  to  watch  for  Indians  during  the 
Apache  troubles,  was  sharp  and  distinct ;  Dixie 
Canon  and  a  dozen  imposing  peaks  filled  the 
horizon,  —  a  tumble  of  mountains  not  unlike  that 
seen  from  Pike's  Peak. 

A  file  of  mules  laden  with  firewood  from  some 
distant  canon  passed  us,  driven  by  Mexicans. 

Coming  back  to  Bisbee,  an  exciting  race  with 
a  mountain  thunderstorm  took  place  between 
elements  and  riders,  —  the  black  cloud  and  rush- 
ing drops  barely  behind  all  the  way ;  but  thanks 


370  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

to  our  sure  footed-horses  in  their  wild  homeward 
gallop,  the  car  was  reached  just  as  the  first  drops 
fell. 

Down  the  stream  from  Bisbee,  out  on  the  free, 
breezy  mesa,  cantering  without  regard  to  road 
or  boundary  possesses  a  new  charm  all  its  own. 
There,  breathing  for  the  first  time  seems  legiti- 
mately accomplished.  Indefinite  miles  in  extent, 
it  is  inclosed  only  by  blue  Mexican  mountains  of 
San  Jose  and  the  Sierra  Madres  on  the  horizon, 
the  nearer  Mule  Mountains,  and  toward  the  north 
the  Huachuca,  where  an  army  post  is  stationed 
among  canons  of  much  luxuriance.  In  the  vast 
plain  are  two  small  hills,  one  called  Deer  Point, 
where  not  long  before  a  stage  was  held  up  by 
cowboys,  and  two  men  killed  ;  farther,  the  Look- 
out Mountain,  already  once  seen,  with  its  strange 
castellated  top.  Cattle  roamed  at  will  over  the 
great  plain,  now  and  then  succumbing  to  thirst, 
as  occasional  bleaching  skeletons  and  skulls  sug- 
gested ;  coyotes  ran  ahead  of  us,  jack  rabbits 
and  "  cotton  tail,"  and  flocks  of  quail,  among  the 
scanty  vegetation. 

Yucca,  and  the  mescal,  from  which  a  sort  of 
whiskey  is  made,  were  the  chief  plants,  but  mes- 
quite  and  bits  of  fluffy  clematis,  and  more  or  less 
ocatillo  were  seen, — a  curiously  branching  shrub 
covered  with  closely  growing  leaves.  Settlers 
cut  stakes  from  it  for  fences,  but  in  the  spring 


BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA    COPPER  MINE      371 

it  suddenly  sprouts,  and  lo  !  the  most  prosaic 
is  possessed  of  a  beautiful  hedge  full  of  scarlet 
blossoms.  A  white  pillar  marks  the  Mexican 
boundary,  sole  suggestion  of  proprietorship  in 
the  whole  wide  scene. 

Another  race  with  a  storm,  majestically  sweep- 
ing up  and  completely  hiding  the  Huachuca 
Mountains  in  its  blue-black  shadow,  brought  us 
back  at  twilight  just  in  time  to  escape  a  fierce 
pelting  with  hailstones,  and  to  see  the  fiery  cas- 
cade of  slag  from  below,  leaping  down  the  pre- 
cipice in  whirling  sparks  and  flames,  like  molten 
lava,  in  a  redly  widening  stream. 

Once  a  storm  had  the  advantage,  —  Arizona 
cloud-bursts  were  amply  illustrated.  A  short 
ride  down  the  stream,  and  a  dark  cloud  seemed 
suddenly  spread  quite  over  the  canon  ;  a  few 
drops  of  rain  fell,  and  hastily  fording  the  shallow 
brook  we  rode  the  horses  for  shelter  into  a 
rough  shed  on  the  other  side.  In  less  than  two 
minutes  a  wild  downpour  had  shut  out  the  sight 
of  everything  in  a  wall  of  descending  water,  and 
the  innocent  brook  was  a  mad  swirl  of  turbid, 
angry  waves,  —  a  foot,  two  feet,  three  feet  deep, 
widening  as  we  watched,  deepening  with  every 
breath  beyond  a  possibility  of  recrossing.  The 
shed  was  slight  shelter,  open  on  three  sides ; 
hail  and  rain  drove  completely  through  it,  while  a 
small  ravine  between  shed  and  house  turned  into 


372  CORONA   AND   CORONET 

another  rushing  stream  which  in  a  moment  could 
not  have  been  crossed.  Fastening  the  horses 
hurriedly,  it  was  the  last  possible  opportunity  to 
jump  over  the  second  stream  on  two  or  three 
stones  still  left  uncovered.  Scarcely  had  we 
gained  the  house  when  the  last  stone  disap- 
peared, and  the  frail  dwelling  on  a  tiny  point  of 
solid  land  was  almost  surrounded  by  yellow-red, 
deafening,  foaming  torrents,  constantly  more  furi- 
ous, and  closer  to  the  little  porch  with  each  mo- 
ment. Rain  still  came  down  in  sheets  —  above 
and  on  every  side  a  watery  wilderness  —  with  a 
deafening  roar. 

In  an  hour  the  sky  cleared.  In  another,  the 
smaller  stream  had  shrunk  sufficiently  to  expose 
one  or  two  stones,  on  which  with  the  aid  of  a 
board  from  the  good  people  who  sheltered  us  we 
crossed,  proceeding  carefully  on  foot  along  the 
steep  bank  of  the  principal  stream,  still  not  less 
than  twenty  feet  wide,  finally  reaching  the  rail- 
road bridge  at  the  village  and  the  car.  White 
hailstones  lay  about  in  heaps,  and  the  canon  was 
an  imposing  sight. 

Washouts  detained  the  Buenaventura  for  a 
day  or  two,  which  started  at  last  with  consider- 
able caution  and  slight  speed.  The  whole  South- 
ern Pacific  road  was  so  washed  and  flooded  that 
great  lakes  lay  along  the  track,  and  the  car  rolled 
about  as  if  we  were  once  more  at  sea.  The  entire 


BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA    COPPER  MINE      373 

country  was  soft  and  muddy  and  spongy.  Poor 
and  squalid  adobe  villages  on  one  side  —  on  the 
other  for  an  instant  a  distant  view  of  the  southern 
end  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  snow-covered  and 
gleaming,  and  onward  from  El  Paso  we  rushed, 
as  if  in  very  truth  the  train  did 

..."  lap  the  miles 
And  lick  the  valleys  up." 

Quaint  old  San  Antonio ;  the  lush  forests  in 
parts  of  Texas  with  birds  still  singing  and  armies 
of  butterflies  fluttering  like  brown  leaves  in  au- 
tumnal gales ;  woods  hung  with  solemn  gray 
moss ;  the  cotton  fields  and  sugar  plantations 
of  Louisiana,  its  low-drooping  trees  and  water- 
plants  ;  New  Orleans  with  its  combination  of 
modern  cleanliness  and  beauty,  ancient  life  and 
old  French  charm ;  the  great  Georgia  cotton 
fields  all  in  fluffy  white  ;  the  distant  Blue  Ridge 
and  changing  foliage  of  Virginia ;  Washington 
welcomes,  and  more  autumnal  glories ;  farther 
welcomes  in  New  York  —  with  these  the  story 
of  the  Amherst  Eclipse  Expedition  draws  to  its 
close. 

But  reunions  of  the  participants  have  not  been 
infrequent,  and  during  the  winter  following,  the 
freight  steamer  came  through  Suez  with  the  ap- 
paratus ;  the  Ainu  collections  were  opened  and 
displayed  in  scenes  far  different  from  those 
which  witnessed  their  gathering ;  in  February 


374  CORONA   AND  CORONET 

the  Coronet  reached  her  nest  in  Tebo's  Basin,  one 
hundred  and  fourteen  days  from  San  Francisco, 
completing  her  fourteen  months'  cruise  of  forty- 
five  thousand  miles. 

The  pink  velvet  has  been  restored  to  her  guest- 
room walls,  and  the  entire  interior  is  refitted 
and  furnished  after  her  wanderings.  One  of  the 
bottles,  thrown  overboard  from  the  Coronet  on 
the  2/th  of  September,  1896,  in  latitude  43°  N., 
longitude  135°  25'  W.,  came  ashore  at  Ross  Bay 
Beach,  Victoria,  on  the  ist  of  April,  1897;  and 
his  Imperial  Majesty,  the  Emperor  of  Japan,  in 
recognition  of  founding  the  Esashi  library  and 
services  in  the  cause  of  education  in  northern 
Yezo,  has  conferred  upon  Professor  Todd  the 
imperial  sake  cup  with  its  famous  "  go-shichi-no- 
kiri "  crest  in  gold,  and  an  accompanying  docu- 
ment or  diploma. 

The  heavens  remain ;  sun  and  moon  still 
pursue  their  steady  cycle,  and  the  astronomer 
patiently  waits  and  works  for  still  another 
eclipse.  His  life  is  a  consecration  to  the  best 
and  highest.  His  joy  over  one  new  fact  wrested 
from  sun  or  star  is  more  than  the  mere  mer- 
chant's over  an  additional  fortune  made.  He 
must  possess  the  potentiality  of  a  hero,  the  calm 
of  a  philosopher,  even  the  uplift  of  martyrs  of 
old.  What  wonder  that  he  lives  in  startling 
nearness  to  the  gigantic  forces  of  nature  and 


BACK  TO  AN  ARIZONA    COPPER  MINE     375 

their  inconceivable  operation  ?  That  in  his  clear 
eyes  personalities,  luxuries,  and  fashions,  hates 
and  envies,  seem  very  small,  and  farther  away 
than  the  stars  he  loves  ? 

He  often  knows  "  the  finer  grace  of  unfulfilled 
designs  ;  "  but  his  hope  springs  perennial. 

In  cosmic  spaces  shadows  cannot  fail  to  fall, 
and  the  solid  earth  must  now  and  then  intercept 
them.  Somewhere  they  will  be  caught,  benefi- 
cently falling  through  unclouded  skies. 


INDEX 


ADAMS,  GOVERNOR,  94. 

Adams,  U.  S.  S.,  56,  103,  123. 

Adriance,  Dr.,  v. 

Ai  (trout),  192. 

Ainu  (or  Aino),  256,  259,  292  ;  belief 
about  eclipses,  321 ;  collections,  259, 
291 ;  dread  of  death  and  ghosts,  315  ; 
fishermen,  282  ;  hairy,  159,  244,  255, 
293  ;  house,  first  visited,  266,  267 ; 
legends,  264,  287 ;  men,  268 ;  salu- 
tation, 301 ;  women,  268. 

Aioina  Kamui  (Ainu  Adam),  264. 

Akadama  (elm),  298,  299. 

Aki  province,  223. 

Akksshi,  Yezo,  158,  160,  275,  324. 

Albatross,  30,  33. 

Aldebaran,  127. 

Aleutian  Islands,  351. 

Alexander,  Professor,  vii,  108. 

Alfred  "  the  Great,"  23,  132,  185. 

Algaroba  (Hawaiian  tree),  46,  47,  109. 

L'Alger,  French  cruiser,  149,  160,235, 
236,  277,  335,  336,  338,  345. 

Aloha  (Hawaiian  farewell),  94,    124, 

131- 

Alpha  Centauri,  126. 
Amakura  (heaven),  138. 
Amherst,  106,  107,  205 ;  cheer,  14,  22, 

124  ;  College  Glee  Club,  14;  colors, 

33>  237  »  preparation  for  expedition, 

27/1  278,  279. 
Amur  river  region,  xxi. 
Anatomy  of  Wit,  327. 
Ancient  Mariner,  125. 
Andrew,  mate  of  Coronet,  129,231,  232. 
Antares,  135. 
Aomori,  145,  171,  231. 
"  A  i  "  (private  car),  15,  23,  32. 
Apache  troubles,  370. 
Armstrong,  General,  107. 
Astrology  (in  Hawaii),  54. 
Astronomer  Royal  of  England,  160, 

343- 

Atlantic  Monthly,  The,  viii. 
Atsu  (elm  fibre),  298. 
Awaji,  Inland  Sea,  217,  227. 

Baden-Powell,  Sir  George,  xix. 
Baker,  Mount,  20. 
Baldwin  Home,  117. 
Ball,  Sir  Robert,  241. 


Bandaisan  eruption,  143. 

Baseball  in  Yokohama,  180. 

Bausch  and  Lomb,  opticians,  278* 

Bear  killing,  309. 

Bearskins,  260. 

Beauty  of  Glazenwood,  26. 

Benten,  Japanese  goddess,  218. 

Beppu,  Inland  Sea,  226. 

Bessemers  (at  copper  mine),  368. 

Betelgeux,  127. 

Bisbee,  357,  360  ff. 

Bishop,    Bernice    Pauahi,    Museum, 

53 ;    Hall   of  Science,    107 ;    Hon. 

Charles  R.,  53,  105,  107,  108;  Mrs. 

Bernice  Pauahi,  53. 
Black  Current  (Kurosiwa),  xxxiv,  137. 
Blonde  Frigate,  64. 
Blow-holes,  75,  79. 
Bluff,  the,  at  Yokohama,  140. 
Board  of  Health  (Hawaiian),  112,  113, 

114,  Il6,   120. 

Boki  (Hawaiian  chief),  104. 

Bonita  (pilot  boat),  29. 

Boutet,   Captain,  235,  277,   280,  334, 

336,  338,  339,  343.  345- 
Braemer,  S.  S.,  5. 
Brashear,  Mr.,  optician,  276. 
Buddha,  Kamakura  and  Nara,  209. 
Buenaventura,  private   car,  358,  359, 

361,  373- 

Bund,  the,  at  Yokohama,  140,  149. 
Burckhalter,  Mr.,  astronomer,  160. 
Burke,  254. 

Burton,  Professor,  viii. 
Byron,  Lord,  64. 

Cananeas  mountains,  369. 

Cape  Horn  (of  Japan),  234. 

Captain's  birthday,  133. 

Cascade  mountains,  20 ;  tunnel,  18. 

Castle,  Hon.  W.  R.,  109;  Mrs.  S.  N., 

109. 

Caves,  burials  in,  64. 
Celestial  Love,  The,  229. 
Century  Magazine,  The,  viii. 
Chabot  Observatory,  160. 
Chambers,  241. 

Cha-nc-you  (tea  ceremony),  151,  152. 
Characters,  Chinese,  242. 
Chess,  31,  131,  232. 
Chicago,  15. 


378 


INDEX 


Chief's  journal,  229. 

China,   treaty   with,   225 ;    war  with, 

'54- 
Chinese,  the,   62 ;   compradores,  153  ; 

war,  mementos  of,  258. 
Chipkommoi  (sun),  309. 
Christie  (W.  H.  M.,  Astron.  Royal), 

160,  345- 
Church  (Central  Union  at  Honolulu), 

103  ;  (Native,  at  Honolulu),  56. 
Cingalese  at  Grand  Hotel,  179. 
Cleghorn,  Mrs.,  64. 
Clerke,  Miss,  242. 
Clock,    driving,    n ;    glycerine,    12; 

sand,  12. 

Cloisonne1,  178,  201,  202. 
Coleridge,  125. 

College,  Agricultural,  at  Sapporo,  272. 
"Colors,"  150,  349. 
Commutator,  electric,  n. 
Cook,  Captain,  63,  64. 
Copper,  process  of  purifying,  366,  367. 
Copper  Queen  mine,  363,  365. 
Cormorant  fishing,  188,  189. 
Cornwall,  Barry,  343. 
Corona,  xiii,  xiv,  xviii-xx,  8-10,  160, 

277,  285,  320,  323-25. 
Coronet,  4,  8-10,  13,  24-31,  45,  47,  56- 

59,    103,    134,  182;   built  when,  xx ; 

library,   36 ;    log,   6 ;    melody,    150, 

349  ;  saloon,  3  ;  signal  letters,  40. 
Costume  in  Japan,  160. 
Courlon,  Captain  Le  Bouleur  de,  277. 
Crehore,  Mrs.,  viii. 
Crosby,  Captain,  2,  24,  335. 
Cross,  Southern,  47,  123,  126,  133. 
Cryptomeria   (Japanese    cedar),    186, 

194. 

Daikichi,  225. 

Daikon  (radish),  165,  173,  230. 

Damien,  Father,  119. 

Dan-no-Ura,  224. 

Dashi  (float  or  car),  207. 

Dauntless,  the,  xxiv,  3. 

Deer  Point,  370. 

Deslandres,  Professor,  160,  277,  280, 
33°,  332.  337.  343.  345- 

Detroit,  U.  S.  S. ,  xxxii,  149. 

Diamond  Head,  Honolulu,  40, 47, 124. 

Dickinson,  Emily,  58. 

Dixie  Canon,  370. 

Dodge,  Mr.,  59,  60. 

Dole,  Rev.  D.,  105;  Mrs.,  49,  50; 
President,  vii,  45,  105,  109,  123. 

Dole  Hall.  105. 

Doshisha  (College),  204,  241. 

Dryden,  68,  97. 

Dumas,  Midshipman,  277. 

Dun,  His  Exc.  Edwin,  American  min- 
ister, 169. 

Dunkards,  22. 

Dutton,  "Brother,"  118. 

Dutton,  Captain,  61. 


Earthquake  wave,  251. 

Eclipse,  apparatus,  5;  beginning,  320; 

phenomena,  322;    selecting  station, 

xx,  158;  tracks,  xiv. 
Elepaio  (Hawaiian  bird),  86. 
Elm  fibre  as  thread,  298. 
El  Monte,  25. 
El  Paso,  323. 
Emerson,  125. 
Emerson,  Dr.,  114,  117. 
Emperor  of  Japan,  3,  144  ;  message, 

331;  portrait,  238-39,  284,  331;  un- 
veiling of,  331. 
Empress  of  Japan,  144. 
Era  of  Meiji,  140. 
Eri  (neckerchiefs),  213. 
Eruptions  (in  Hawaii),  74;  (1868),  72, 

75;  (1880-81),  73,  75;  (1892),  74. 
Esashi,    158,   160,    171,   217,  234,  241, 

243,  252,  256,271,  ff.  375. 
Etchuya  Inn,  258,  261,  262. 
Expedition,  35,  36,  170,  171,  229,  234, 

236-40. 
Expeditions  of  different  nations,  160. 

Farallones,  29,  354. 

Field,  Kate,  63,  97,  98,  100,  joi,  103. 

Fiji  Islands,  149. 

Fisheries  in  Yezo,  233. 

Flag-ship  U.  S.  S.  Olympia,  149. 

Flathead  River,  17. 

Floats,  Kyoto,  207,  283. 

Floriponda,  82,  84. 

Flying-fish,  34. 

Folk  lore  story,  93. 

Formosa,  Governor  of,  161. 

Fort  Peck  Indian  reservation,  15. 

Fortune-telling  in  Yezo,  314. 

Fourth  of  July  at  Yokohama,  179. 

Francis,  Mr.,  v,  vi. 

Friedlander,  Dr.,  59. 

Fuji,  137,  138,   140,  161,  182-84,  186, 

268,  349. 

Fujino  tea-house,  225. 
Fujita  (Hundred  Steps),  148. 

Gaisen  (dance),  167. 

Gardens,  Imperial,  161. 

Gay,  264. 

Geisha  (Gifu),  190  ;  melody,  191. 

Gerrish,  Mr.,  v. 

Geta  (shoes),  155. 

Gifu,  188. 

Go-downs,  246. 

Goerz,  optician,  278. 

Gohei  (paper  prayer),  218,  244. 

Golden  Gate  (San  Francisco),  xxxvii, 

28,  349,  35.5!  (Uyeno),  174. 
Golden  Pavilion,  198. 
Goonies,  30,  32,  33,  39. 
Government,  Japanese,  156,  159. 
Great  Northern  Railway,  vii,  14,  16. 
Guest  book,  344  ;  at  Fujita,  147. 
Gundlach  Optical  Co.,  278. 


INDEX 


379 


Hachinoye,  143. 

Hakodate,  159,  170,  171,  237,  243,  253, 

254-57- 

Hara,  His  Exc'y,  Governor  of  Hok- 
kaido, vii,  233,  275. 

Harte,  Bret,  155. 

Hawaii,  annexation,  45 ;  bride,  92  : 
climate,  no;  flag,  122,  journey,  68  ; 
language,  44;  leaving,  95;  lepers, 
in  ;  melodies,  44,  47,  54  ;  minister 
from,  46  ;  politics,  45 ;  relics,  53  ; 
roadsides,  83 ;  sea  coast,  65 ;  sing- 
ing, 100  ;  spirit  of  modern,  87,  109 ; 
volcanoes,  58  ;  women,  54,  56. 

Hawaiians,  42,  122,  199. 

Hawthorne,  211,  287. 

Hayashi,  Mr.,  vii. 

Heijo,  210. 

Helmets  of  feathers  (Hawaii),  91. 

Hemans,  Mrs.,  241. 

H.  Henry  VI.,  188. 

Henry  Gandell's  Leap,  75. 

Herbert,  181. 

Herod,  Mr.,  vii,  170. 

Hibachi  (brazier),  188,  206. 

Hill,  President,  Great  Northern,  vii,  14. 

Hills,  Captain,  160,  343. 

HilOj  Hawaii,  73,  82-84. 

Himiongami,  213. 

Hiroya,  Mr.,  290,  335. 

Hohei-kwan,  Sapporo,  258,  261. 

Hokkaido,  273,  274,  294 ;  governor  of, 
233>  275  i  observations  in,  157  ;  oys- 
ter beds  and  fisheries  in,  233  ;  wealth 
of,  282. 

Holoku  (Hawaiian  dress),  42,  61. 

Kongo,  250. 

Honolulu,  3,  12,  40-43,46,57,66,  90, 
104,  no,  129. 

Horn,  Cape,  2,  4,  24,  106,  129  ;  of  Ja- 
pan, 234. 

Horseback  riding,  49,  285. 

Horses  in  Yezo,  286. 

Hosmer,  President,  Oahu  Coll.,  107-9. 

Huachuca  mountains,  370,  371. 

Hualalai,  95. 

Hula  (dancing  girls),  75. 

Hundred  Steps,  tea-house,  147. 

Hurbin,  Captain,  277. 

Ideographs,  145. 

leie  (vine  in  Hawaii),  82. 

Inao  (god-sticks),  297,  302,  313. 

Independent,  The,  viii. 

Indians,  16. 

Inland  Sea,  xxxii,  xxxiii,  159,  180,  217, 

229,  241. 

Instruments,  8,  9,  132,  278. 
loi  (Hawaiian  flower),  89. 
Ishikawa-maru,  284. 
Ito,  Count,  225. 
Iwalani,  S.  S.,  119,  121. 
Iwate,  prefecture,  143 ;  branch  of  Red 

Cross,  144. 


Jacula  Prudentum,  181. 

James,  A.  C.,  iii.  v,  xxiii,  21,  346 ;  D. 

W.,  vi,  3;  Mrs.  A.  C.,  v,  36. 
Janssen,  xviii. 
Japanese,  62;  alphabet,  211;  dinner, 

165  ;  landscape  gardeners,   84,  161  ; 

national  anthem,  150,  154,  239,  330. 
Jiji,  144. 

Jinnkisha  rides,  140,  144. 
Jonson,  B.,  327. 
Juniper  Flat,  369. 

K  D  J  B  (Coronet  signal  letters),  40. 

Kaahumanu,  55. 

Kaawaloa,  63,  97. 

Kabayama,  Mr.,  vii,  205. 

Kabuka,  269,  270. 

Kago  (palanquin),  225,  285. 

Kagura  (heavenly  music),  213. 

Kahuku,  Hawaiian  town,  72. 

Kahuna  (witch  doctor),  76. 

Kaiana,  Hawaiian  chief,  51. 

Kailua,  Hawaiian  town,  51,   63,  99; 

relics,  94. 

Kaiulani,  Princess,  45. 
Kalakaua,  King,  3,  55,  74,  95. 
Kalaupapa,  old  town  on  Molokai,  120. 
Kalawao,  120. 
Kalo  (vegetable),  51. 
Kamaishi,  town  in  Japan,  246,  250. 
Kamakura,  Daibutsu  at,  210. 
Kamehameha  I.,  51,  53,  74,  93,  94,  99. 
Kamehameha  II.,  100;  IV.,  55. 
Kamogawa,  river  in  Kyoto,  197. 
Kanaka,  island  native,  62. 
Kanda,  Professor,  205. 
Kant,  Immanuel,  128. 
Kapapala,  Ranch,  Hawaii,  71,  89. 
Kapiolani,  70;  Queen  Dowager,  95. 
Kasuga,  temple  at  Nara,  211,  212 ;  god 

of,  215  ;  dance  at,  212. 
Kealakeakua  Bay,  63. 
Keats,  42. 

Keauhou,  Hawaiian  town,  ico. 
Keopuolani,  Queen,  55. 
Kewalo  reefs,  106. 
Ki  (leaves),  90. 
Kidda  (Ainu,  for  star),  309. 
Kilauea,  59,  68,  70,  76,  78,  79,  89,  147. 
Kilauea-iki,  81. 

Kimono  (Japanese  dress),  142,  148. 
Kimotsuki,  Captain,  251,  273,  290. 
Kinkasan,  Japanese  island,  143. 
Kipling,  126. 
Kitami,  province  of  Yezo,    157,  158, 

160,170,  217,  255,  285,  335. 
Kiushtu  Island,  226. 
Koa,  Hawaiian  wood,  loS. 
Kobe,  159,  180,  182,  183,  184,  221,226, 

228. 

Kobo  Daishi,  211,  213,  242. 
Kochibe,  Professor,  250. 
Konigsberg,  xviii. 
Kojik'i,  oldest  Japanese  book,  294. 


380 


INDEX 


Kokuzo  Bosatsu,  god  of  the  universe, 

210. 

Kompira,  temple,  218. 

Komyo,  Empress,  213. 

Kootenai  River,  17. 

Korea,  149,  224. 

Kori  (basket),  185,  196,  262. 

Koro-pok-guru,  293,  294. 

Kotohera,  Inland  Sea,  218. 

Krombi  (water  insect),  311. 

Kuakini,  94. 

Kuny  Chipkommoi  (the  moon),  309. 

Kupapa-u  (a  corpse),  26. 

Kure,  Inland  Sea,  219. 

Kurosiwa,  xxxiv,  137. 

Kuruma,  or  jinrikisha,  185. 

Kurumaya  (runner),  148,  178,  189. 

Kushiro,  Yezo  province,  157. 

Kwanko-maru,  S.  S. ,  263,  268,  270. 

Kwannon,  goddess,  199,  219. 

Kyogen  (a  play),  167. 

Kyoto,  183,  194,  197,  200. 

Lahaina,  Hawaiian  town,  62. 

Laiakanoe  hale,  Point  of  Mists,  48. 

Lanai,  island,  62,  90,  93 ;  veranda,  46, 
90,95' 

Langley,  Professor,  xix. 

Lantana,  50. 

La  Perouse  Strait,  269,  271. 

Launfal,  Sir,  in. 

Lava  flows,  70,  72,  73,  74. 

Legation,  United  States,  in  Tokyo, 
156,  170. 

Lei  (wreath),  44,  46,  47,  62,  75,  90,  91, 
123. 

Lepers,  in  ;  band,  115,  116;  expense 
of,  113  ;  female  quarters,  119;  horses 
for,  121 ;  marriages  of,  112;  seclu- 
sion of,  112;  suffering  among,  120. 

Leprosy,  anaesthetic,  117;  evidences 
of,  115;  first  in  islands,  in;  germ 
found,  122 ;  painless,  121  ;  how  trans- 
mitted, 122 ;  white,  of  Syria,  122. 

Lick  Observatory,  160;  party,  275. 

Li  Hung  Chang,  225. 

Likelike,  Princess,  64,  74. 

Liko  lehua  (Hawaiian  plant),  89. 

Liliha,  wife  of  Boki,  104. 

Liliuokalani,  55,  64,  74. 

Longfellow,  216. 

Lookout  Mountain,  269,  370. 

Loti,  Pierre,  336. 

Lotus,  174,  186,  199,  200,  209. 

Lowell,  J.  R.,  in,  194. 

Lowell,  Percival,  155. 

Lukula,  a  Hawaiian  prophet,  76. 

Lunalilo,  former  Hawaiian  king,  1 12. 

Lyly.  327- 
Lyman,  B.  S.,  272. 

MacArthur,  S.  S.,  26. 
McGrew,  Dr.,  103. 
McNair,  Admiral,  151,  179. 


Maida,  bombardment  of,  224. 

Makai  (going  toward  mountains),  72. 

Makudsu  Kozan,  famous  potter,  348. 

Manoa  Valley,  48,  106,  109. 

Manono,  wife  of  Hawaiian  chief,  54. 

Maple  Club,  161,  168. 

Marlinspike  birds,  39. 

Mashika,  266. 

Matsumz,  328. 

Matsuri,  205,  283. 

Matsuyama,  226,  227. 

Matte  (copper),  366,  367. 

Maui,  island,  62,  102. 

Mauka,  leaving  the  heights,  72. 

Mauna  Kea,  66, 89. 

Mauna  Loa,  58,  59,  60,  64,  65,  68,  71, 

74t  75,  76,  86,  89. 
Meiji,  present  era  in  Japan,  140,  204, 

252. 

Merrill,  Mr.  (San  Francisco),  vii. 
Miaki  Island,  137. 
Mikura  Island,  137. 
Mila  Head,  xxx. 
Millochau,  M.,  160. 
Mills,  Consul,  at  Honolulu,  120. 
Mills,  President,  107. 
Mississippi  Bay,  140,  344. 
Mitsui  family,  144. 
Mittau,  MM.,  160. 
Miyabe,  Professor,  258. 
Miyagi,  143,  248. 

Miyajima,  222,223,  224>  festival,  223. 
Miyako-maru,  S.  S.,  216,  217,  218, 220, 

225,  226. 

Miyanoshita,  343. 

Moats,  in  Tokyo,  176;  in  Kyoto,  200. 
Mokuaweoweo  (crater),  58,  68,  74. 
Molokai,  Hawaiian  island,  40,  62,  in, 

112,  113,  114. 

Mombetsu,  Japanese  town,  238. 
Monocacy,  U.  S.  S.,  vi. 
Montgomery,  241. 
Morse,  Professor,  259,  291,  312. 
Mother  Carey  chickens,  39. 
Mule  Mountains,  370. 
Murakami,  Mr.,  viii,  241,  243,  245, 252, 

261,  263. 

Museum  at  Sapporo,  258. 
Mutsu,  Count,  225. 
Mykasa-yama,  Nara,  213. 
Mynah  bird,  85. 
Myorin  Kwannon,  210. 
Myoshinji  Temple,  198. 

Nagara,  river  at  Gifu,  189. 
Nagasaki,  339,  345. 
Nagata,  Professor,  316. 
Nagoya  earthquake,  143. 
Nakadori,  177,  178. 
Nakamura,  Professor,  157. 
Nakashima,  Inland  Sea,  222. 
Namikawa  (Tokyo),  178, 179;  (Kyoto), 

201,  202,  203. 
Nara,  209,  210,  243. 


INDEX 


Naruto  Channel,  228. 

Nation,  The,  viii. 

Neesima,  Mr.,  204. 

Nemuro,  province  of  Yezo,  157. 

Newcomb,  Professor,  242. 

New    England,   30,   70,   71,   83,  254, 

287. 

Nichi-Nichi,  144. 
Nikko,  186,  343,  345. 
Nishi  Hongwanji,  temple,  198. 
Nishimura,  203,  204. 
Nitobe,  Professor,  233,  258,  259. 
No  dance,  167. 
Nomamura,  Inland  Sea,  218. 
Norway,  xxi. 
Nova  Zembla,  xvii,  xxi. 
Nozawa,  Mr.,  233,  235. 
Nuuanu  pali,  50,  51,  52. 

Oahu,  island,  40,  51 ;  college,  104,  105, 

107,  108 ;  Glee  Club,  108. 
Oakland,  24,  356. 
Obi  (sash),  142. 
Observations,  meteorological,  xxi,  156, 

~275' 
Octopus,  33. 

Odyssey,  30,  258. 
Ogawa,  Mr.,  viii,  170. 
Oginohama,  244,  245,  251. 
Onayo  ("good  morning"),  281. 
Ohia,  tree  with  scarlet  blossoms,  71, 

7.5,  84. 

Ohiyo,  a  kind  of  elm  tree,  298. 
Okachi,  248. 

Okhotsk,  Sea  of,  159,  269,  274. 
Okita,  184,  185,  196,  197,  201,  207,221, 

224,  345. 
Olympia,  U.  S.  S.,  xxxii,  149,  150,  179, 

181,  182,  349. 
Olympian  Mountains,  20. 
Omao  (Hawaiian  bird),  86. 
Ondo,  strait,  219,  220,  222. 
Onivake,  269. 
Onomichi,  219. 
O-o  (Hawaiian  bird),  91. 
Osaka,  floods  about,  243. 
Osgood,  8. 
Oshidomari,  269. 

Oshima,  Mr.,  viii,  233,  289,  290,  332. 
Ota,  "  Wizard  of,"  348. 
Otaru,  233,  243,  252,  255,  261,  266. 
Outlook,  The,  viii. 
Owl's  Head,  L.  I.,  2. 
Oyama,  Countess,  176. 

Pacific,  9,  30,  31,  32, 40,  43,  136,  137. 

Pahala,  69,  94. 

Papaia  (fruit),  56. 

Paris  Observatory,  160,  276. 

Patagonia,  6. 

PauahiHall,  105,  108,109. 

Peabody  Museum,  Salem,  259. 

Pearl  Harbor,  48. 

Peeresses'  School,  176,  177. 


Pele,  goddess  of  fire,  70,  74,  77  ;  cave, 
75 ;  flower,  71,75,89;  offerings  to, 
75  ;  defiance  of,  in  1824,  70. 

Pelican  Island,  241. 

Pemberton,  J.,  v,  vi,  229. 

Pericles,  88. 

Perry,  Commodore,  147. 

Phoenix  Hall,  209. 

Plate-holders,  10 ;  endless  chains  of, 
n,  36,  236. 

Plays,  old  classic,  165,  166. 

Plumeria,  46. 

Poi  (national  Hawaiian  dish),  51,  65, 
66,  88,  91. 

Poillon,  Messrs.,  2. 

Point  of  Mists,  48. 

Poison,  in  arrows,  311. 

Polar  axis,  n. 

Polaris,  126,  133,  135. 

Polynesia,  53. 

Poronaibo,  295. 

Portland,  22. 

Portuguese,  43,  62,  85. 

Puget  Sound,  20. 

Punahou,  104,  105, 107,  108. 

Punaluu,  66,  73,  86,  88. 

Punch  Bowl  (crater),  124. 

Punkah,  170. 

Queen,  92  ;  Emma,  53,  55 ;  Keopuo- 
lani,  55 ;  Liliuokalani,  55,  64,  74. 

Queen  Regent,  Kaahumanu,  55 ;  Ki- 
uau,  55. 

Rainier,  Mount,  20. 

Rebosa,  362. 

Reibunshiri,  269. 

Reporters,  21,  142,  355. 

Reverie,  194. 

Revolution,  176. 

Richard  barometer,  132. 

Rishiri,  268,  269. 

Roche's  Point,  Ireland,  2. 

Roentgen  rays  in  corona,  325. 

Ronins,  175. 

Rotation  of  corona,  160,  277. 

Round  Top,  196. 

Ruth,  Princess,  74. 

Saghalien,  271,  274,  311,  329. 

Sake,  165,  306 ;  Sake  Cup,  374. 

Sakura  (cherry  blossom),  179. 

Sakura-maru,  170,  171. 

San  Antonio,  373. 

Sandy  Hook,  5. 

San  Francisco,  2,4,  7,  15,  21,  24,  25, 

32,  69,  129. 

San  Jose  Mountains,  369,  370. 
San-)u-sangendo,  199. 
Sankwan  Island,  248. 
San  Rafael,  26. 
Sapporo,  159,  170,  233,  255  ;  Imperial 

Agricultural  College  at,  233,  255. 
Saru-sawa-no-ike,  pond  in  Nara,  214. 


382 


INDEX 


Sausalito,  7,  24,  25,  26,  28. 

Sawayama,  Mr.,  205. 

Schaeberle,  Professor,  160. 

Schoolhouse,  Ksashi,  280,  281 ;  old, 
275,  280;  new,  228,  327,  330. 

Scorpion,  126. 

Sea  of  Japan,  269;  of  Okhotsk,  159, 
269,  274. 

Seattle,  20. 

Seifu,  famous  potter,  201. 

Sei-yc-ken,  173,  174. 

Sendai,  Bay  of,  143. 

Shakespeare,  As  You  Like  It,  104; 
II  Henry  VI.,  7,  188,  327  ;  King 
John,  318  ;  Richard  III.,  209;  Ti- 
tus Andronicus,  24. 

Shanties,  36,  37,  38,  134,  352. 

Shasta,  Mount,  22. 

Shiba  temples,  174. 

Shi  jo,  214. 

Shikoku,  island  in  Inland  Sea,  227, 
242. 

Shikotan,  island  of,  338. 

Shimbun  (newspaper),  142. 

Shimidzu,  183,  184. 

Shimonoseki,  224,  225. 

Shinto  festivals,  205. 

Shirakawa,  vi,  10,  243 ;  apparatus  at, 
325;  in  1887,  170. 

Shirasaka-San,  331,  335. 

Shiriya  Light,  251. 

Shizuoka,  185,  187. 

Shodoshima,  218. 

Shundoku  (treasure  box),  299. 

Sierra  Madras,  370. 

Signals,  communication  by,  40,  182. 

Skykomish  River,  20. 

Smith,  Sydney,  139. 

Smith  and  Terry,  2. 

Some-San,  331. 

South  Sea  Islands,  specimens,  53. 

Soya,  Cape,  234,  255,  268,  271. 

Spectroscopes,  8,  277. 

Spica,  135. 

Spokane,  17. 

Sulphur  caves,  81. 

Sulphur  Springs  Valley,  369. 

Suruga  Gulf,  183. 

Suruga-maru,  171. 

Suzuki-San,  Vice-Governor  of  Hok- 
kaido, 371. 

Tadotsu,  218. 

Tairen-maru,  S.  S.,  243,  244,  245,  2311 

253,  255- 
Takemikatsu    Chi-nomikoto    (god    at 

Nara),  213. 

Tamaiya  inn,  188,  193. 
Tamalpais,  Mount,  26. 
Tanabe,  147. 
Tantalus,  124. 
Taps,  356. 
Taro,  or  Kalo,  51. 
Taro-patch  (stringed  instrument),  47. 


Tartary,  Gulf  of,  269. 

Tattooing,  303,  304,  311. 

Terao,  Professor,  160,  276,  330,  332, 
333,  346. 

Thaxter,  Celia,  i. 

Thompson,  E.  A.,  v,  232,  278,  321 ; 
E.  F.,  24. 

Ti  (or  ki)  leaves,  90. 

Tidal  wave,  73,  143,  245-49. 

Time  bells,  149,  150. 

Times-Herald,  Chicago,  joi. 

Todd,  Professor,  v,  vi,  xxi,  10,  156- 
57,  233-37,  24°,  278,  33°,  337>  34&, 
374- 

Tokaido,  185. 

Tokonoma  (recess),  187,  188. 

Tokyo,  143  ;  eclipse  party,  276 ;  Obser- 
vatory, 160  ;  Central  Meteorological 
Observatory  at,  157,  275,  319. 

Tomo,  219. 

Tonakai  (deer),  329. 

Toyoura,  224. 

Treasures  of  the  deep,  241. 

Tsuda,  Miss,  viii. 

Tsugaru  Strait,  231,  252. 

Tsukiji,  Tokyo,  173. 

Tubi,  Inland  Sea,  228. 

Turner,  Professor,  160,  343,  344. 

Tuscarora  Hollow,  250. 


Uchimura,  Mr.,  205. 

Uji,  209. 

Ukulele,  stringed  instrument,  44,  47, 


University  at  Tokyo,  164,  273. 
Urtica,  fibre,  299. 
Uyeno  Park,  174. 

Vancouver,  137. 

Volage,  H.  M.  S.,  100. 

Volcano  House,  76,  77,  79,  81,  82,  89. 

Vries  Island,  137,  183. 

Waa  (canoe),  63. 

Waianea  mountains,  48. 

Waikiki,  near  Honolulu,  46. 

Waikolu,  120. 

Wakkanai,  234,  271,  280. 

War,  with  China,  145,  154. 

Water-lemon,  vine,  82. 

Weather,   Imperial    Bureau  of,   156, 

'57/ 

Wellington,  Washington,  19. 
West  Africa,  10,  12,  326. 
Wheeler,  Mr.  (San  Francisco),  vii. 
Wilkes  Scientific  Expedition,  60. 
Wright,  Dr.;  Yale  Univ.,  278. 

Yaami,  hotel  in  Kyoto,  194,  195,  196. 
Yacht  Club,  New  "York,  2  ;  San  Fran- 
cisco, 24 ;  Yokohama,  149. 
Yale  University,  106. 
Yamatoya,  348. 
Yedo,  143 ;  Bay,  139,  181. 


INDEX 


Yezo,  n,  157,  171,  217,  231,  256,  272; 
bears,  244 ;  evolved  from  chaos,  264  ; 
horses,  285,  286 ;  shores,  252  ;  trav- 
eling to,  241  ;  west  coast,  255,  265. 

Yokohama,  3,  12,  144,  159. 

Yonsike  (an  insect),  311. 

Yoritomo,  300. 


Yorktown,  U.  S.  S.,  xxxii. 
Yoshimitsu,  198. 
Yoshitsune,  300. 
Young,  Professor,  xix,  97. 
Yuma  desert,  358. 

Yusen     Kaisha,    officials,    233,    266; 
steamers,  243,  255,  334. 


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